IRLF 


^iS^liM 


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LI  BR  ARY 


UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA 


OIF"T    OK 


Receifad  ...  __ 

Accessions  No. 


Shelf  No. 


TRAVKLS 


—   IN  — 


Asia  Australia  ^  Aerica 


COMPRISING  THE  PERIOD  BETWEEN   1879  AND  1887. 


TTHIVSRSITY 


BARON     WILHKLM    VON 


(Saxe-Coburg-Gotha,) 

F.  L.  S.,  corresponding  member  of  the  American  Geographical  Society, 
etc.,  etc.,  etc. 


PART  I-l&r 


NEW    YORK:    GEORGE    LANDAU, 

1888. 


ENTERED  ACCORDING  TO  ACT  OF  CONGRESS,  IN  THE  YEAR  1888,  BY 

BARON    WILHELM    VON    LANDAU, 
IN  THE  OFFICE  OF  THE  LIBRARIAN  OF  CONGRESS,  AT  WASHINGTON,   D.  C. 


TO    THE    HONORABLE 

SHARLES  P.  BALY,  b.  k.B., 

President  of  the  American  Geographical  Society  and  Ex-Chief  Justice 
of  the  Court  of  Common  Pleas,  of  the  City  of  New  York; 

Honorary  member  of  the  Imperial  Geographical  Society  of  Russia,  of  the 

Geographical  Societies  of  Berlin  and  Turin,  and  corresponding 

member  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  of  London; 

Honorary  member  of  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art,  Medico-Legal 
Society,  and  Mercantile  Library  Association  of  New  York, 

WITH    HIGH    ESTEEM    AND   GRATITUDE. 

THE  AUTHOR. 


T 


PREFACE. 


*ir*HE  leading  idea  which  has  governed  the  prepara= 
tion  of  this  little  work  has  been  to  precisely  relate, 
the  personal  experiences  of  the  author  in  different  parts 
of  our  planet.  The  standpoint  which  he  takes  is 
partially  that  of  a  tourist,  at  the  same  time  offering  all 
the  statistical  and  geographical  data  he  possibly  could 
obtain,  and  he  wishes  to  be  distinctly  understood  that 
in  making  these  extensive,  long  lasting  travels,  he  was 
not  led  by  any  other  motive  than  the  mere  love  for 
science,  nature  and  art. 

Though,  among  explorers,  only  one  of  the  "(Dii 
minor es,"  I  found  sufficient  reward  in  the  honorable 
mention  of  my  expeditions  and  the  scientific  apprecia= 
lions  in  the  reports  of  the  <(  Gesellschaft  fur  Erdkunde" 
(Society  for  the  Enrichment  of  the  Knowledge  of  the 
Earth),  the  Ethnologic  (Periodical  and  the  lectures  of 
(Professor  (Doctor  Virchow,  of  Berlin. 

Many  of  the  tropical  and  subtropical  plants,  etc., 
with  which  I  had  supplied  some  countries  in  Europe 
and  Africa  for  acclimatization,  thrive  well  according 
to  statements  received,  and  promise  to  become  a  source 
of  revenue. 


revue 


This  also,  adds  to  the  pride  I  feel  in  passing 
over  a  period  of  eight  years'  travelling,  devoted  exclu= 
sively  to  science. 

Owing&the  success  of  my  explorations,  especially 
in  the  thinly  populated  wild  islands  in  Oceania,  to  the 
kind  and  generous  assistance  of  the  Governors,  (Regents, 
Residents,  the  (Roman  Catholic  Cur  as  and  the  Com= 
mandants  of  the  Guardia  Civil,  I  herewith  express  my 
heartfelt  thanks  to  each  and  all  of  them. 

THE  AUTHOR. 


T  was  in  Autumn  of  1870  when  I  left  dear,   old 

Berlin,  to  realize  the  dream  of  my  youth :  to 
visit  the  "mythic  cradle  of  the  human  race,"  the 
distant  India. 

Armed  with  everything  necessary  for  such  a 
trip,  a  good  constitution  and  a  certain  degree  of  self- 
denial,  as  well  as  with  my  Doctor  of  Philosophy  in 
my  pocket,  I  looked  cheeringly  into  the  future. 

Munich,  the  Brenner,  Verona  and  Bologna  were 
passed  and  Brindisi  reached,  when  passage  was 
taken  for  Corfu  on  board  a  steamer.  As  I  had  stayed 
before  in  Corfu,  I  hastened  my  departure  from  the 
latter  place  to  Alexandria  and  by  rail  through  the 
Delta  to  Cairo.  I  did  not  remain  there  any  length 
of  time  and  after  visiting  Doctor  Schweinfurth, 
whose  acquaintance  I  had  made  on  former  travels 
and  at  whose  residence  I  was  introduced  to  some 
members  of  the  Nordenskjoeld  Expedition,  I  sailed 
for  Suez.  My  stay  in  Egypt,  as  mentioned  before, 
was  a  very  short  one  on  this  occasion  and  for  this 
reason  and  former  descriptions  of  the  country,  pub 
lished  by  me,  I  omit  to  say  anything  about  it. 

I  boarded  the  steamer  "  Jemna"  of  the  French 
Messagerie  national  line  bound  for  India  and  after 
passing  Pondichery  and  Madras  I  reached  Calcutta 
through  the  Hoogly,  an  arm  of  the  Ganges. 


—  8  — 

Calcutta,  the  capital  of  British-India,  with 
870,000  inhabitants,  has  but  few  remarkable  curiosi 
ties.  The  houses  of  the  Europeans  and  of  the 
wealthy  Natives,  the  Baboos,  are  spacious  and  ele 
gantly  furnished.  Poonkhas,  or  ventilators,  suspend 
from  the  ceilings  and  the  numerous  windows  of  the 
pretty  high  houses  have  awnings.  Most  everybody 
here  has  his  own  servant.  The  mode  and  way  of 
living  here  is  very  luxurious.  The  botanical  garden, 
situated  on  the  other  side  of  the  river  Hoogly,  con 
tains  a  great  many  of  ornamental  flowers,  among 
which  the  beautiful  specimens  of  the  Burmese  Am- 
herstia  nobilis  and  Bougainvillia  spectabilis  are  the 
most  prominent.  Doctor  King,  the  director  of  the 
botanical  garden,  to  whom  I  am  under  great  obliga 
tions,  enabled  me  to  send  a  large  collection  of  plants, 
flowers,  seeds  etc.  to  the  botanical  garden  of  Berlin. 

A  peculiar  spectacle  surprises  the  stranger  in 
Calcutta,  half  an  hour  before  and  half  an  hour  after 
sunset,  on  the  so-called  Esplanade,  a  tract  of  land, 
four  miles  in  length  and  one  mile  in  width,  situated 
on  the  banks  of  the  Hoogly,  when  the  Parsee,  the 
Hindoo,  the  Mahometan  and  the  European  with 
their  original  vehicles,  their  richly  liveried  coachmen 
and  servants  make  their  appearances,  thus  outrival 
ing  the  Roman  or  Parisian  Corsos. 

An  excursion  from  Calcutta  on  the  North  Bengal 
Eailroad,  over  the  Ganges,  to  Darjeeling,  thirty  miles 
in  the  interior  of  the  Himalayas  brought  me  to  the 
highest  Tea-plantation  in  the  world,  7,000  feet  above 


q  _ 


. 

the  level  of  the  sea.  From  the  top  of  a  mountain  in 
that  region,  the  highest  mountain  of  the  Globe 
"Mount  Everest"  is  visible.  On  my  return  to  Cal 
cutta,  over  a  different  road,  I  passed  a  Cinchona 
plantation,  5,000  feet  high,  and  started  for  the  West, 
by  way  of  Patna,  to  Benares. 

Benares,  the  Athens  of  India  and  the  sacred  city 
of  the  Hindoos,  is  famous  for  the  great  mosque 
"  Aurung  zebe,"  so  called  after  the  emperor,  who  had 
this  symbol  of  Islamitic  faith  erected  on  the  ruins  of 
the  Hindoo  temples. 

The  astronomic  observatory  in  Benares  was 
built  in  1600  by  Manasimha.  Among  the  many 
temples  of  the  Hindoo,  those  in  which  the  "Ape" 
receives  godly  homage  are  the  most  numerous. 
Hundreds  of  these  little  "  Deities  "  are  found  in  the 
groves  and  orchards  and  are  fed  by  their  "Wor 
shippers  "  with  all  kind  of  delicacies. 

Benares  has  about  50,000  Idols,  exhibited  for 
public  worshipping  in  niches,  cases  etc.  The  temples 
where  the  bulls  are  adored,  swarm  with  filth,  especi 
ally  the  niches  in  which  other  lifeless  Gods  are 
enshrined.  Their  faces  and  bodies  are  literally 
dripping  from  oily  substances,  —  remnants  of  offer 
ings  —  ,  thus  creating  an  intolerable  odor.  From  the 
ceilings,  diminutive  bells  dangle  down  and  are  fre 
quently  rung,  to  remind  the  negligent  "Deities"'  of 
their  obligations. 

There  are  many  antiquities  in  Benares. 


-    10  — 

The  Ghauts,  a  prolongation  of  the  stony  steps, 
descending  from  the  rocks,  form  a  platform  and  are 
constantly  thronged  with  people,  flocking  down  to 
the  river  to  purify  themselves  with  its  holy  water  or 
to  perform  some  other  work.  On  the  extreme  end 
are  beautiful  Stone-Kiosks,  also  harbors  of  some 
abominable  "Deities." 

On  the  4th  of  June  1857  a  great  many  Europeans 
were  murdered  in  this  city  by  the  rebellious  natives. 

From  Benares  I  traveled  to  Lucknow— the  old 
capital  of  the  former  kingdom  Oudh — with  famous 
forests  in  the  neighborhood. 

Several  edifices,  built  by  a  Frenchman,  create 
sensation  by  their  peculiar  style. 

In  the  environs  of  Lucknow  is  Cawnpore,  where, 
on  the  very  day  on  which  the  Mogul  Empire  was 
proclaimed,  viz.:  the  12th  of  February  1857,  the 
horrible  massacre  of  Europeans  by  Nana-Sahib  and 
his  Sepoys  was  perpetrated.  A  second  slaughter, 
not  less  brutal  than  the  first,  took  place  on  the  16th 
of  July  of  the  same  year.  On  the  following  day  the 
distressed  received  succour  from  General  Havelock. 
After  a  brief  stay  in  Cawnpore,  I  started  for  Saha- 
rampore,  from  where  another  collection  of  seeds, 
etc.,  was  dispatched  to  Europe.  Here  also,  the 
Director  of  the  botanical  garden — the  latter  pro 
perly  a  place  for  the  cultivation  of  domestic  plants- 
Doctor  Dutton,  favored  me  with  his  kindness.  The 
Siwalik  hills,  where  tertiary  fossiles  are  excavated, 
were  duly  explored  by  me. 


Between  these  geologically  famous  liills  and  the 
real  Highmountains  in  Dehra-Dhoon,  the  culture  of 
silk-worms  is  carried  on  and  tea-plantations  fordid. 

From  the  Sanitarium  Massory,  where  I  received 
the  membership  of  the  Himalaya  Club,  the  Snow- 
mountains  present  a  magnificent  view.  Landowr, 
also  a  sanitarium  for  soldiers,  enjoys  the  neighbor 
hood  of  Ale-breweries.  The  way  leads  now  to  Agra, 
one  of  the  former  residences  of  the  Mogul  Emperors, 
about  hundred  miles  distant  from  Delhi.  In  Agra  is 
the  most  splendid  mausoleum  in  the  world,  the 
celebrated  "Taj-Mahal."  It  is  impossible  to  give  a 
true  description  of  the  Taj-Mahal  with  its  har 
monious  proportions,  its  Mosaic  work,  the  immacul 
ate  snow-white  marble  etc.  According  to  accounts 
in  Agra,  Taj- Mahal  was  founded  in  1631  under  the 
reign  of  the  Mogul  Emperor  Shah-Jehan  and  devoted 
to  the  memory  of  his  spouse  Moontaj-i-Mahal.  Ta- 
vernier  relates  that  20,000  people  had  worked  for 
twenty  successive  years  on  the  completion  of  this 
wonderful  mausoleum. 

The  Moti-Musjed  or  Pearl-mosque  deserves  to 
be  mentioned  as  also  the  Jumna-mosque.  The  latter, 
though  not  so  nice  as  the  Pearl-mosque,  towers 
above  all  other  Mosques  in  Agra,  its  site  being  the 
loftiest. 

The  sepulchral  monuments  of  Elmadaod-Doulah 
and  Akbar  are  magnificent  relics  of  oriental  archi 
tecture. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Agra  is  the  native  state  Sindhee 


—  12  — 

with  an  English  cantonment.  Splendid  temples  and 
ruins  of  such,  of  an  extinct  Hindoo  religion,  the  so- 
called  Jaynes,  are  abundant.  The  soil  contains  plenty 
of  iron-ore. 

Among  all  the  attractions  in  India,  the  architec 
tonic  monuments  of  the  past,  cause  the  travellers 
admiration  and  astonishment,  but  above  all,  the 
relics  of  the  glory  and  power  of  the  Mogul  Emperors. 
It  was  in  Delhi — of  historic  fame— where  I  had 
occasion  to  admire  the  well  preserved  remains  of 
architectonic  monuments  of  the  great  Mogul  Em 
perors. 

On  the  llth  of  May,  1857,  during  an  insurrection 
of  the  Natives,  a  terrible  massacre  of  Europeans 
took  place  in  Delhi.  The  English  attacked  the  in 
surgents  on  the  14th  of  September  1857,  and  the  city 
was  taken  by  the  former  on  the  20th  of  the  same 
month.  The  day  following,  the  last  of  the  Mogul 
Sovereigns,  Surazoo-deen,  was  captured  and  several 
of  his  grandchildren  and  princes  executed. 

Of  all  the  curiosities  in  Delhi,  the  Dewani- 
Khass  or  Presence  chamber  (Audience  hall)  excites 
the  greatest  attention  of  the  visitor.  This  edifice 
too,  like  the  incomparable  Taj-Mahal,  owes  its  origin 
to  the  above  mentioned  emperor  Shah-Jehan. 

The  imperial  palace,  turned  into  ruins  by  the 
English,  was  considered  the  finest  residence  of  any 
"Despot"  in  the  East. 

The  Dewani-Khass  is  an  arched  pavilion,  rests  on 
low,  solid  pillars  and  measures  150  feet  in  length,  and 


—  13  — 

50  feet  in  width.  The  material  is  of  the  finest  white 
marble.  The  sculpture,  engraving  and  ornamenting 
of  the  pillars  and  walls  is  almost  inimitable.  Flowers, 
blossoms,  leaves,  fruits  and  Arabesques  in  Mosaic, 
composed  of  precious  gems,  appear  to  the  visitor  as 
if  alive  or  painted  on  canvas.  In  the  Arabic-written 
characters,  on  different  places  of  the  hall,  resembling 
Arabesques,  citations  from  the  Koran  are  found, 
among  others,  the  lines,  glorified  by  Moore  in  "  Lalla 
Bookh": 

"If  in  reality,  there  is  an  Elysium  on  earth, 
It  is  this,  it  is  this." 

Below  the  central  arch  of  the  pavilion  is  a  low 
marble  tribune,  on  which  stood  the  famous  Peacock 
throne.  Bernier,  who  has  seen  the  throne,  gives  the 
following  description  of  it:  "The  throne  consisted 
of  two  massive  golden  peacocks,  whose  plumages  were 
composed  of  the  most  precious  stones.  The  seat 
was  inlaid  with  diamonds  and  supported  by  six  solid 
golden  legs,  also  sumptiously  covered  with  diamonds 
and  rubies.  Six  wide,  massive  silver  steps,  likewise 
containing  different  jewels,  led  to  the  throne,  the 
cost  of  which,  according  to  the  above  named  traveller, 
was  from  20  to  30  Millions  of  Pounds  Sterling." 

The  throne  was  stolen  by  the  Persian  conqueror 
Nadir-Shah,  and  the  precious  diamond  "Koh-i-noor," 
worn  by  the  Mogul  Emperor,  wandered  to  England, 
where  it  now  ranks  highest  among  the  crown  jewels 
of  Queen  Yictoria. 

Of  great  attraction  also  is  the  Private  Imperial 


—  14  — 

Mosque  within  the  fortified  palace,  built  of  white 
marble.  The  Jumna  Mosque,  situated  in  a  different 
part  of  the  city,  is  one  of  the  finest  of  its  kind  and 
from  the  Minarets  the  celebrated  lonely  "Kutub 
Minar  "  column,  undoubtedly  the  loftiest  structure  in 
the  world,  is  visible.  The  environs  of  Delhi,  to  the 
extent  of  15  miles  along  the  banks  of  the  Jumna,  are 
literally  covered  with  fragments  of  tombstones,  walls, 
mosques,  palaces  and  astronomical  observatories. 
These  are  remains  of  the  Delhi/4  of  the  past,  for 
the  first  Delhi^  was  already  built  2,000  years  ago. 

Here,  as  in  some  other  parts  of  India,  the  boil- 
disease  (covering  the  whole  body  with  protuberances) 
appears  during  the  hot  season  and  gets  many  victims. 

From  here  I  started  for  Simla,  by  way  of  Um- 
balla,  a  very  tedious  and  troublesome  voyage.  One 
is  dragged  with  difficulty  in  the  clumsy  vehicle,  the 
so-called  "Garre,"  over  the  plains  and  through  un- 
bridged  rivers.  The  construction  of  these  Garres  is 
such,  that  they  have  to  serve  as  sleeping  compart 
ments,  since  travelling  in  the  night  time  becomes  here 
a  necessity,  shelters  nowhere  to  be  found.  Naturally 
enough,  there  is  but  little  comfort  in  them. 

Here  it  was,  where  the  three  brothers,  Herman, 
Adolf  and  Robert  Schlagintweit  met  in  the  month  of 
May  1856,  to  complete  their  equipment  for  the  in 
tended  journey  to  Cashmere.  They  arrived  in  Bom 
bay  towards  the  end  of  1854,  and  first  crossed  the 
"Deccan"  to  Madras  over  different  roads.  They 
separated  in  Madras  in  the  following  spring.  Adolf 


—  15  — 

and  Eobert  travelled  to  tlie  remote  Northwest  of 
India  and  spent  their  time  with  examinations  of  the 
passes,  glaciers,  mountains,  etc.  They  advanced  a& 
far  as  Ladak  and  attempted  to  climb  to  the  summit 
of  the  Ibi-Gamin,  one  of  the  steepest  peaks.  Though 
the  attempt  was  fruitless,  they  nevertheless  reached 
the  extraordinary  height  of  22,000  feet,  a  height 
which,  up  to  that  period  of  time  had  not  been  reached 
by  any  mortal  man. 

During  that  time  Herman  made  extensive  travels 
in  Sikkim  and  Assam,  and  through  the  whole  region 
between  Brahmapootra  and  Burmah,  in  the  tropic 
low-lands  as  well  as  in  the  unexplored  mountainous 
district. 

After  the  already  related  meeting  of  the  brothers 
in  Simla,  they  visited  Iscardo,  made  repeated  excur 
sions  in  the  wild  region  between  the  Upper-Indus 
and  the  table-land  of  Pamir,  and  afterwards  explored 
the  southeasterly  continuation  of  the  great  Karako- 
ram  chain  of  mountains  in  Little-Tibet,  thereby 
fixing  the  altitude  of  the  Dapsang  to  28,278  feet. 

They  were  the  first  Europeans  who,  after  passing 
the  Karakoram  over  a  pass,  19,000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  had  seen  and  crossed  the  Kiin-liin. 
Unexpected  circumstances  forced  the  brothers  to 
return  to  India,  and  Herman  and  Kobert  embarked 
for  Europe  in  the  Spring  of  1857,  whilst  Adolf  was 
determined  to  profit  from  their  mutual  discoveries, 
and  to  explore  Central  Asia  as  far  as  to  the  Eussian 
possessions  north  of  Thian-Shan.  Kuniors  of  the 


—  16  — 

progress  of  the  Tartaric  rebellion  against  the  Chinese 
supremacy,  had  by  this  time  reached  Little  Tibet, 
and  the  task  at  which  Adolf  aimed  seemed  practicable 
to  him.  Alter  crossing  the  Kim-lun  he  marched  to 
wards  Yarkand,  but  was  sent  back  and  proceeded  to 
Kashgar,  presenting  himself  to  Walle-Khan,  the  leader 
of  the  Insurgents,  who  at  that  time  was  besieging  the 
Chinese  forts.  All  that  the  world  got  to  know  about 
the  fate  of  this  indefatigable  traveller,  was,  that  he 
was  murdered  by  the  order  of  Walle-Khan. 

The  great  Sanitarium  in  this  place  is  about  8000 
feet  above  the  sea. 

The  Viceroy  of  India,  as  well  as  the  Commander- 
in-chief,  and  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  Punjab 
reside  here  during  a  period  of  eight  months  in  every 
year.  The  seat  of  the  government  (wandering  with 
the  Viceroy)  is  also  here  during  the  summer. 

My  stay  in  Simla  was  a  pretty  long  one,  enjoying 
the  acquaintance  of  the  Earl  of  Lytton,  and  of  his 
successor,  the  Marquis  of  Ripon.  I  made  frequent  ex 
cursions  to  Tibet  as  far  as  to  the  Chinese  borders,  but 
was  not  permitted  to  step  over  the  boundaries.  On 
that  journey,  at  the  Mission  Station  Kothgur,  I  met 
a  missionary  from  Berlin,  a  Mr.  Rebsch.  Before  this 
last  place  is  reached,  ^"arkanda  has  to  be  passed, 
where  a  splendid  view  of  the  snowmountains  pre 
sents  itself. 

Doctor  Lucius,  the  present  Minister  of  Agri 
culture  in  Berlin,  was  here  some  time  before  my 
arrival. 


—  17 

The  road  leads  now  right  through  the  snow- 
mountains  with  their  gorgeous  valleys  and  luxuriant 
pine-  and  cedar-forests  up  to  the  lofty  boundaries  of 
vegetation.  In  the  former  grows  the  eatable  pine. 
The  alpine  vegetation  is  not  so  abundant  as  in  the 
Swiss  alps,  but  the  cultivation  of  the  vine  is  very 
productive  on  account  of  the  scarcety  of  rain. 

Back  of  Kothgur,  the  Sutlej,  an  important  river 
with  canyonlike  banks  and  peculiar  windings,  dis 
charging  into  the  Indus,  was  reached..  We  started 
now  from  Murree  over  the  mountains  for  Cashmere. 

The  voyage  lasted  full  fourteen  days.  In  day 
time  travelling  was  seldom  interrupted  and  the  nights 
were  passed  under  shelter. 

The  river  Jhelum,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
capital,  Shrenaga,  describes  the  most  peculiar  wind 
ings  imaginable,  which  latter  are  imitated  in  the 
patterns  of  the  Cashmere  Shawls. 

Our  way  up  hill,  in  tents,  brought  us  to  Sona- 
mag,  which  is  very  high  situated.  After  we  had  left 
the  last  named  place,  a  Christian  church  was  con 
sumed  by  fire  and  we  were  charged  with  the  deed, 
though  Mahometans  had  caused  it. 

The  established  church  in  Cashmere  is  "Ma- 
hometanism,"  that  of  the  court  "Hindoo." 

The  principal  passage  to  Central  Asia  and 
Turkestan  leads  over  Sonamag.  This  same  course 
was  taken  by  Schlagintweit  and  the  English  Embassy. 

There  is  a  large  stock  of  game  on  the  table-land 
of  Cashmere,  and  hunting  is  very  frequent.  The  in- 


—  18  — 

terior  of  Cashmere  is  only  during  the  summer  in 
habited,  at  which  time  the  Maharajah  and  his  court 
reside  here.  During  the  winter  the  court  resides  in 
Sommoo. 

On  my  return  to  India  over  the  old  disused  high 
way,  laid  out  by  the  Mogul  Emperors,  I  found  now 
and  then  ruins  of  seraglios  and  caravanseries,  which 
afforded  night-shelters.  This  road  is  in  a  very  bad 
condition  and  therefore  not  so  much  in  use  as  the 
Murree  road. 

The  manufacturing  of  shawls,  in  former  times, 
carried  on  on  a  large  scale,  is  now,  since  they  are  out 
of  fashion,  almost  extinct,  and  only  Shrenaga  pro 
duces  some.  Oxen  are  the  beasts  of  burden  in  Cash 
mere,  ancj  horses  and  donkeys  are  used  for  riding. 
The  killing  of  cattle  and  fishes  is  strictly  prohi 
bited,  because  they  are  worshipped. 

A  short  distance  from  Shrenaga,  some  large 
lakes,  palaces  in  ruins,  formerly  summer  seats  of  the 
Mogul  sovereigns,  and  gardens  with  beautiful  cas 
cades,  are  to  be  found.  The  vegetation  here,  with 
Italian  and  other  poplar  trees,  bordering  the  lakes 
and  adorning  the  streets,  is  almost  northerly  and 
puts  one  in  mind  of  home,  especially  when  arrived 
from  India. 

Cotton  and  Indian  corn,  the  former  with  yellow 
blossoms  and  sesam,  from  which  the  sesam  oil  is  ob 
tained,  are  raised  to  a  considerable  extent.  During 
my  sojourn  there,  a  Belgian  pressman  was  summoned 
to  Cashmere  to  introduce  the  cultivation  of  fruits, 


—  19  — 

vine  and  other  plants,  and  for  the  construction  of 
press-houses.  Some  species  imported  from  France 
and  Germany  throve — as  I  was  informed  afterwards 
— very  well. 

To  reach  Cashmere,  it  was  necessary  to  obtain 
special  permission  from  the  Government  of  the  Pun 
jab  in  Lahore.  The  reason  for  this  precaution  was 
the  insufficiency  of  provisions  after  the  rage  of  a 
famine  in  that  region.  We  found  many  skeletons  of 
cattle,  killed  by  starvation,  on  the  road  from  Murree 
to  Cashmere. 

This  journey  was  performed  in  the  middle  of 
summer,  the  so-called  rainy  season,  which  differs 
from  the  rainy  season  of  the  southern  or  eastern 
part  of  the  Himalaya.  The  rain  in  these  regions, 
with  but  short  interruptions,  lasts  throughout  the 
season.  Special  permission  for  the  use  of  the  roads 
from  and  to  Cashmere  is  also  required,  as  there  are 
only  a  few  designated  by  the  Government.  For 
eigners  are  submitted  to  a  strict  control  on  the  part 
of  the  English  resident. 

My  sojourn  extended  to  three  months,  and  I 
made  frequently  excursions  to  the  Valley  of  Cash 
mere,  where  I  had  splendid  views  of  the  snow  moun 
tains  and  to  the  Jhelum  river. 

The  want  of  tents,  or  other  shelters,  necessitates 
many  families  to  live  on  boats;  and  the  river  is 
crowded  with  them.  Hunters,  coming  from  India, 
either  for  pleasure  or  for  the  recuperation  of  an 
undermined  health,  are  often  met  with.  Hotels  are 


—  20  — 

entirely  unknown  here  and  one  has  to  content  him 
self  with  the  tent  or  house  he  is  put  into  by  the 
Maharajah. 

The  morals  and  customs  of  the  Mahometans  are 
looser  than  those  of  the  Arabians,  the  women  for 
instance  do  not  veil  themselves  so  close.  The  public 
worship  and  instruction  of  the  Hindoo,  on  the  con 
trary,  inasmuch  as  a  stranger  has  a  chance  to  cast  a 
look  into,  is  strictly  regulated  and  profoundly  moral. 

Returning  over  the  same  road,  I  proceeded  to 
the  Punjab  with  its  capital  Lahore,  which,  though 
worth  seeing,  can  not  be  compared  with  either  Agra 
or  Delhi. 

During  my  brief  stay  in  Lahore  I  had  the  honor 
to  form  the  acquaintance  of  Professor  Doctor  Leitner, 
the  celebrated  Orientalist,  to  whom  science  is  greatly 
indebted  for  the  interpretation  and  explanation  of 
several  old  Indian  idioms.  On  his  first  voyage  from 
India  to  Cashmere,  Professor  Leitner  had  to  endure 
a  series  of  hardships  and  privations,  whilst  I  enjoyed 
the  advantages  of  the  present  improved  conditions. 
It  was  Professor  Leitner,  if  I  remember  well,  who 
proposed  the  establishing  of  a  High-Shod  in  La 
hore,  now  in  an  excellent  state  of  progress. 

On  reaching  the  Punjab,  we  enter  the  sphere  of 
a  nation  which  occupies  a  great  part  of  northwestern 
India,  and  who  are  neither  Mahometans  nor  Hindoo, 
though  inclining  to  the  former,  the  "  Sikhs,"  a  beauti 
ful  race  of  men.  From  their  midst  soldiers  and 
policemen  are  selected.  They  possess  magnificent 


—  21  — 

temples.  In  the  vicinity  of  Umritsar,  with  a  luxuri 
antly  outfitted  temple,  especially  in  Loodhiana,  the 
manufacturing  of  imitations  of  genuine  Cashmere 
shawls  is  one  of  the  important  features. 

The  Punjab  in  the  neighborhood  of  Lahore,  is 
rich  in  rivers,  and  in  Summer,  shows  one  of  the 
highest  temperatures  in  the  world.  In  the  other 
parts  of  India  where  there  is  frequent  rain  -bufuit 
summer  comes,  the  temperature  is  milder,  but  in  the 
Punjab  and  the  westerly,  desert-like  region  on  which 
the  former  is  bordering,  and  where  there  is  but  little 
rain,  the  temperature  rises  from  120  to  130  degrees. 

This  country  is  frequently  visited  by  whirling 
clouds  of  dust.  At  the  approach  of  them,  the  in 
habitants  retire  to  their  huts,  which  are  covered  with 
Koosh-koosh  grass,  thus  reducing  the  temperature 
within,  but  when  the  wind  abates  and  the  heat  be 
comes  unbearable,  the  Thermantidod  has  to  be  put 
up.  Many  other  arrangements  such  as  Poonkhas  or 
fans  and  ventilators  pulled  by  Kulies,  etc.,  are  in  use. 

Every  four  or  five  years  the  Viceroy  of  India 
arranges  the  famous  "Durbar,"  a  festival  of  enormous 
brilliancy,  and  to  which  the  Maharajahs  of  the  cor 
responding  districts  are  invited.  On  that  occasion 
they  display  an  extraordinary  splendor.  The  suite 
of  attendants  with  their  richly  ornamented  liveries, 
the  elephants  and  camels  with  covers  trimmed  with 
jewelry  and  thousand  other  attractions  captivate  the 
senses.  The  Maharajah  of  Cashmere  who  was 
present,  displayed  a  fabulous  pomp  and  I  must 


—  22  — 

confess  that  I  rarely  ever  had  such  a  delight  of  tlie 
eyes.  From  Lahore  I  traveled  by  way  of  Umballa, 
Saharampore  with  but  a  short  stay  in  Delhi,  to  Agra 
from  where  I  turned  aside  to  the  confederate  Kaj- 
pootana  state.  The  English  Kesident  (native  govern 
ment)  whose  hospitality  I  enjoyed,  had  the  kindness 
to  place  an  elephant  and  domestics  at  my  disposal 
for  the  trip  to  Ambher,  the  former  capital. 

The  gardens  and  palaces  of  this  place  are  worth 
seeing.  Tigers  used  to  invade  the  city  because  the 
Hindoo  never  shoots  them  unless  he  is  in  immediate 
danger.  They  are  now  decimated  by  Europeans  and 
others  who  frequently  arrange  hunting  parties. 

In  this  part  of  India  I  received  a  communication 
from  Doctor  Schweinfurth,  at  that  time  in  Egypt,  to 
send  him  plants,  seeds,  etc.,  for  transplantation  in 
Africa  where  they  thrive  well,  especially  the  Bamboo, 
Doctor  Dutton  and  others  in  Saharampore  acom- 
modated  me  kindly  with  the  required  plants,  etc., 
thus  enabling  me  to  accomplish  the  wish  of  my 
worthy  friend,  whose  intention  it  was,  to  experiment 
with  them  on  the  farm  of  Professor  Doctor  Soyaux 
on  the  Gaboon. 

West  of  Jaypore  is  a  salt  lake  and  a  very  pro 
ductive  salt  mine.  The  palaces  in  Jaypore  are  note 
worthy  as  are  also  the  dyeries  in  which  homespun 
materials,  mostly  cotton-goods,  are  dyed. 

On  the  road  to  Ajmer  numberless  monkeys 
(Baboons)  rove  about  and  are  very  bold  because  they 
are  worshipped  by  the  natives. 


—  23  — ^ 

Not  far  from  here  are  temples  of  Brahma,  whilst 
only  such  of  Shiva  and  other  By-Gods  are  found  in 
other  parts.  The  Hindoo  faith  was  originally  "  Mo 
notheism  "  and  is  still  considered  as  such  by  the 
better  class  of  its  followers.  Brahma  was  an  in 
visible  and  allmighty  God,  the  creator  of  heaven  and 
earth  and  like  the  deity  of  the  Buddhists  too  great 
to  be  conceived  by  mortals.  The  three  descendants 
of  Brahma  are  more  personifications  of  his  attributes 
than  separate  personalities.  These  three,  the  "  Tri- 
murti"  or  the  Hindoo-Trinity  are :  Brahma,  the 
creator,  Vishnu,  the  preserver,  and  Shiva,  the  de 
stroyer.  Among  the  emblems  of  the  latter  is  a  child, 
thus  signifying  that  "life"  is  constantly  deriving 
from  the  "dead." 

Out  of  the  three,  a  multitude  of  inferior  Gods 
sprung  up  and  with  their  descendants  number  thirty 
millions  of  which  only  three  millions  are  bad.  From 
this  proportion  the  kindness  of  the  ruling  deity  is 
perceptible.  The  original  faith  is  much  degenerated 
at  present  and  dark  superstition  substituted. 

In  the  lakes  of  Eajpootana  both  sexes  of  the 
natives  enjoy  frequent  bathing. 

Travelling  in  the  western  part  of  the  states  is 
very  troublesome  and  can  only  be  performed  on 
camels-back.  A  habitation  here,  forms — so  to  say— 
an  oasis,  the  distance  from  each  other  being  so  great. 

Ajmer  is  pretty  mountainous  and  there  is  great 
abundance  of  wild  fruits. 

On  my  return  I  had  again  to  put  up  at  Agra, 


24  — 

from  where  I  visited  the  fortified  place  of  Allahabad, 
the  seat  of  the  British  government.  In  this  place  I 
enjoyed  the  most  generous  hospitality  of  the  English 
representative,Lieutenant-Grovernor  Sir  Henry  Cooper. 

The  drainage  in  Allahabad  is  one  of  the  grandest 
in  India  and  I  was  greatly  disappointed  that  I  could 
not  inspect  the  same  on  account  of  the  cholera  raging 
there  at  that  time. 

Cholera  in  the  eastern  parts  of  India,  appears 
during  the  hot  season ;  the  absence  of  the  extremely 
moist  atmosphere  at  that  time  favors  the  disease. 
In  the  west  it  appears  in  the  course  of  the  rainy 
season,  because  both,  the  soil  and  air  contain  too 
little  moisture  to  promote  bacillar  or  parasitical 
activity.  The  climate  of  India,  in  general,  is  un 
healthy  for  Europeans.  The  rainy  season  is  fol 
lowed  by  the  cold  and  lasts  during  the  months  of  Oc 
tober,  November,  December,  January  and  February. 
The  degrees  of  cold  are  not  high ;  the  normal  tem 
perature  in  the  coldest  month  of  the  year,  the  month 
of  January,  is  in  Calcutta  67  ?,  in  Madras  77°,  and  in 
Bombay  78°.  The  hot  season  begins  towards  the 
end  of  February  and  lasts  till  rain  commences  in  the 
month  of  June.  The  different  seasons  in  India  de 
viate  greatly — India  extending  over  a  latitude  of  over 
2000  miles.  On  the  west  coast  for  instance,  the  rain 
fall  is  stronger,  in  the  north  is  the  cold  severer,  and 
in  the  south  heat  reigns  almost  throughout  the 
year. 

After  a  brief  stay  in  Allahabad,  I  boarded  a  train 


—  25  — 

of  the  Great  Peninsular  Eailroad  for  Central  India 
and  proceeded  next  to  Jabalpore,  in  whose  vicinity 
are  diamond  mines,  belonging  to  a  Eajah,  and  to 
which  access  is  gained  under  great  difficulties. 

Jabalpore  is  situated  on  the  famous  Nurbuddha 
river,  on  whose  banks  grows  the  sacred  tree  of  the 
Buddhists,  the  Pippal  tree,  Ficus  religiosa.  The 
adoration  of  this  tree  bases  upon  the  ground  that, 
under  it,  life  was  imparted  to  Yislmu  and  that  Buddha 
has  rested  under  its  shade.  Many  other  beautiful 
trees  adorn  the  banks  of  the  river,  as  for  example  the 
Banyan-Pagode,  or  Indian  Fig  tree,  Ficus  indica. 
Geologically,  this  territory  is  marvellously  beautious 
with  its  formation  of  marble.  The  tropic  vegetation 
develops  the  greatest  luxuriancy,  and  the  cultivation 
of  cotton  is  carried  on  on  a  very  large  scale  up  to  the 
coast  (especially  in  Guzerattee)  and  almost  as  far  as 
Bombay.  There  are  a  great  many  tigers  around  here. 

After  a  two  days'  travel  through  beautiful  forests 
of  cocoanut  trees,  with  extraordinary  specimens  of 
the  cocos  nucifera,  I  reached  the  "Flora"  cave. 
In  the  interior  of  the  cave,  situated  in  the  high-land 
of  Deccan,  are  Buddhistic  and  Hindoo  temples. 

From  Elora  back,  along  the  coast,  over  islands, 
the  train  of  the  Great  Peninsular  Kailroad  carried 
me  to  Salsette.  The  climate  on  the  coast  is  very  un 
healthy  and  all  kinds  of  fevers,  especially  Malaria, 
rage  all  the  year. 

Between  the  continent  and  Bombay,  on  a  forma 
tion  of  basalt,  is  the  Island  of  "Elephanta,"  which 


—  26  - 

place — as  I  had  already  reached  Bombay — I  visited 
later. 

The  city  of  Bombay  is  divided  in  two  parts ;  in  the 
fort,  situated  within  the  old  Portuguese  f ortifications, 
about  one  mile  in  length,  ending  on  the  beach  of 
the  bay,  surrounded  by  moats,  the  stagnated  water 
of  which  produces  fever ;  and  in  the  new  city  quarter, 
north  of  the  Esplanade.  Bombay  is  a  very  rich  city, 
the  wealth  mostly  to  be  found  among  the  Parsees. 

It  might  not  be  superfluous  to  say  a  few  words 
about  the  followers  of  "Zoroaster,"  whose  doctrine — 
as  is  known — teaches  the  existence  of  a  God  and  an 
evil  principle,  both  together  ruling  the  Universe. 
They  settled  on  the  Malabar  coast  about  800  years 
ago,  when  expelled  from  Persia.  The  sun,  as  the 
representative  of  God,  fire  and  the  sea  are  worshipped 
by  them.  Immediately  after  sunrise  they  perform 
their  prayers.  In  their  temples,  Idols  are  not  to  be 
found,  but  the  sacred  fire  is  kept  burning  all  the 
time.  They  neither  burn  nor  bury  their  dead,  but 
expose  them  to  the  air  on  the  top  of  a  hill,  where 
they  decompose  or  are  devoured  by  beasts  of  prey. 
They  marry  their  children  at  the  tender  age  of  4  or 
5  years,  bring  them  up  together  and  unite  them  when 
of  maturity. 

Bombay  possesses  many  Parsee  temples.  The 
"Tower  of  Silence"  is  inaccessible  to  other  believers, 
the  sight  of  which  dare  only  be  seen  from  a  distance, 
iDut  models  of  it  are  everywhere  procured.  The 
Meteorological  Observatory  is  under  the  direction  of 


—  27  — 

Doctor  Chambers.  The  museum  in  the  Yictoria 
Garden  and  the  hospital  for  sick  animals  deserve  to 
be  mentioned.  Public  conveyances  consist  of  cabs, 
buggies  and  palanquins,  carried  by  four  carriers. 
Most  everybody  here  has  his  own  servant.  Bombay 
is  the  second  important  commercial  city  in  India 
after  Calcutta. 

A  short  distance  from  Bombay,  in  the  suburb 
Mazagaun,  are  many  serpents  in  the  adjoining 
djungles.  Here  resides  the  Jewish  Sassoon  family, 
eminently  rich.  The  accumulation  of  their  wealth 
derives  from  trading  in  opium  with  China. 

The  residence  of  the  governor, — who*  was  kind 
enough  to  furnish  me  with  recommendations  to  the 
government  of  Hyderabad— is  near  By  cola.  Of  all 
the  Indian  cities  Bombay  resembles  most  a  European 
town.  Objects  manufactured  of  sandal,  rose  and 
other  fragrant  wood  are  offered  for  sale  on  every 
way  and  passage,  in  the  city. 

The  route  from  Bombay  to  the  island  of  Ele- 
phanta,  seven  miles  in  distance,  is  performed  on  a 
small  boat,  Mazagaun  has  to  be  passed.  The  bay  is 
admirably  beautiful.  The  small  islands  with  their 
magnificent  vegetation  and  charming  hills  on  one 
side  and  the  peaks  of  the  Malabar  Ghauts  on  the 
other  side  afford  an  unusual  sight.  Malabarhill,  the 
favored  place  of  the  Europeans  with  their  pretty 
bungalows,  makes  an  excellent  impression  upon  the 
traveller  on  passing  it. 

Elephanta  is    one   mile   in  length   and   has   a 


—  28  — 

luxuriant  growth  of  palm  trees  and  tamarinds.  The 
form  and  situation  of  Elephanta  are  of  a  charming 
beauty;  the  highest  point  is  divided  in  two  peaks, 
one  higher  than  the  other.  A  short  ascent  leads  the 
traveller  to  the  front  of  the  temple  between  the  two 
peaks  where  a  splendid  view  of  Bombay  and  Salsette 
presents  itself.  The  beauty  of  the  vegetation  in  the 
foreground  is  beyond  description.  The  interior  of 
the  temple,  entered  upon  very  .suddenly — doors  not 
existing — shows  a  spacious  chamber  on  each  side  of 
it.  The  roof  is  supported  by  pillars  hewn  out  of  the 
rock,  beautifully  sculptured.  A  single  glance  of  the 
visitor  meets  with  the  triple  bust  of  the  "Trimurti," 
the  Hindoo  trinity,  cut  in  stone  and  measuring  twelve 
feet  in  height. 

Returning  to  the  city,  I  visited  the  botanical 
garden  with  its  palm  trees  and  the  abundance  of 
tropical  and  other  bright-colored  flowers,  etc.,  amongst 
which  the  Persian  roses  are  of  an  unusual  brilliancy. 

An  excursion  to  the  Ghauts,  with  their  pictu 
resque  outlines,  and  the  sanitarium  in  the  midst  of 
extremely  beautiful  basalt  formations,  with  extensive 
sandal  wood  forests  at  the  basis,  is  worth  while 
undertaking. 

Farther  on  in  the  mountains  is  Mahableshwar, 
where — at  times — the  rainfall  reaches  the  abnormal 
height  of  250  inches.  Arrived  in  Karli,  by  way  of 
Khandalla,  the  caves  with  Buddhistic  temples  in  the 
interior  were  examined. 

East  of  Khandalla  is  the  unsurpassable  breach 


—  29  — 

of  the  above  mentioned  Ghauts,  the  train  passes 
right  through  to  Poonah. 

In  Poonah  resides  a  German  Savant,  a  celebrated 
interpreter  of  the  Sanscrit,  whose  name — I  am  sorry 
to  say — I  have  forgotten.  On  my  return  to  Bombay, 
I  started  for  the  south  on  board  an  English  steamer, 
and  leaving  Goa,  the  Portuguese  colony  sideways, 
I  landed  at  Baypore-Calicut,  12  to  13  degrees  north 
of  the  Equator,  consequently  a  very  hot  place  with 
an  extremely  moist  and  tropical  climate. 

All  Indian  palm  trees  are  here  represented. 

The  inhabitants,  because  not  intermixed  with 
negro  blood,  present  a  brighter  and  purer  complexion 
and  one  is  inclined  to  call  them  pretty. 

A  day's  journey  from  Baypore-Calicut,  and  not 
distant  from  Cochin,  exists  a  peculiar  race  of  white 
and  colored  Jews. 

The  next  voyage  was  to  the  East  per  Madras 
railroad,  and  to  the  foot  of  the  Neilgherre  chain  of 
mountains,  with  the  highest  point  8,500  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  climate  is  very  mild  and  coffee  and 
tea  grow  abundantly.  The  cinchona  plantation  in 
Neddiwattam  belongs  to  the  government.  The  sani 
tarium  Oatakamund  has  a  charming  site. 

In  company  of  the  director  of  the  botanical 
garden  I  rode  to  "Dodabetta,"  the  highest  point  of 
the  Neilgherre,  with  an  imposing  view  toward  the 
surrounding  country  and  the  southerly  chain  of 
mountains.  In  the  hotels  of  this  mountainous  coun 
try,  the  departments  of  the  sexes  are  strictly  seperate. 


—  30  — 

The  governor  of  Madras,  and  the  aristocracy  re 
side  here  during  the  summer.  Though  it  was  winter 
when  I  was  there,  the  weather  was  nevertheless  very 
mild.  To  the  north  is  the  native  state  of  Mysore 
with  important  coffee  plantations  and  gold  mines. 

From  Bangalor,  in  the  distant  east  of  this  State 
with  an  English  cantonment,  I  proceeded  to  Madras 
on  the  south-eastern  coast  by  rail,  and  arrived  there 
in  the  month  of  January.  The  heat  was  almost  un 
bearable  and  sleep  could  only  be  procured  under 
the  Poonkha  or  fan,  and  even  then  I  was  terribly 
tortured  by  mosquitos  and  sand-flies.  The  rainy 
season  lasts  from  the  end  of  October  to  the  begin 
ning  of  January.  I  was  furnished  with  a  very  warm 
recommendation  by  the  late  Mr.  Bruhns,  director  of 
the  astronomical  observatory  in  Leipzig,  Germ  any, 
to  Professor  Pogson,  on  whose  Astronomic-Meteoro 
logical  Observatory  the  scientific  observations  are 
published  by  the  Professor's  daughter.  A  famous 
Israelitish  Philologist,  Mr.  Oppert,  is  Professor  on 
the  Madras  College. 

The  garden  of  acclimatization  interests  on  ac 
count  of  the  various  plants,  and  the  government 
forts  are  worth  an  inspection.  Towards  the  end  of 
January,  I  embarked  for  Point  de  Galle  on  a  steamer 
of  the  British  India  Steamship  Company. 

This  place  was  formerly  an  important  seaport 
until  Colombo  has  gained  the  advantage  over  it. 

On  a  trip  to  a  lake  in  the  vicinity  of  Point  de 
Galle  I  saw  the  Totapella,  a  mountain  second  in 


—  31  — 

height  of  all  the  mountains  in  Ceylon  and  after  a 
short  stay  in  Point  de  Galle,  I  travelled  to  Colombo 
the  capital  of  Ceylon.  Properly,  the  Djungle  region 
begins  here  and  ends  where  the  country  rises  terrace- 
like,  thus  developing  the  tropic  vegetation  (especially 
on  the  west  coast)  to  the  utmost.  Coffee,  transplan 
ted  from  Africa,  blossoming  and  fruit-bearing  at  one 
and  the  same  time,  is  but  little  aromatic.  There  is 
not  much  activity  in  the  capital  of  Ceylon.  Cinna 
mon  grows  almost  everywhere  and  in  the  Cinnamon 
garden — a  place  of  a  Djunglelike  description — extra 
ordinary  specimens  of  cinnamon  bushes  can  be  seen. 
The  cloudless  sky  with  a  burning  hot  sun  and  the 
blinding  white  sand  contribute  greatly  to  render  the 
stay  in  Colombo  disagreeable.  The  natives  or  Sin- 
galeses  in  their  provoking  white  garments  do  not 
increase  the  attraction  of  the  place. 

After  a  short  voyage  from  Colombo,  Kandi  is 
reached,  a  famous  place  of  pilgrimage  with  clean, 
tidy  houses  and  some  commerce,  part  of  which  is  in 
the  hands  of  a  few  German  firms. 

In  a  temple,  in  this  place,  the  sacred  tooth  of 
Buddha  is  preserved,  thus  forming  the  attractive 
power  of  the  pilgrims.  To  the  German  residents 
in  Colombo  I  am  greatly  obliged  for  the  many 
favors  shown  to  me.  In  Paradenya,  a  suburb 
of  Kandi,  I  was  introduced  to  Doctor  Tryman, 
the  director  of  the  botanical  garden  and  author  of  a- 
work  about  the  cultivation  of  trees  from  which 
Caouchouc  is  obtained.  The  botanical  garden  con- 


—  32  — 

tains  exceedingly  fine  specimens  of  the  Giant-Bamboo 
and  Talipat  palm-tree  of  an  abnormal  height,  also 
Caouchouc  supplying  fig-trees,  Ficus  Indica  and 
Eicus  Tocicaria. 

The  richly  ornamented  leaves  of  the  Talipatpalm, 
Oorypha  umbraculifera,  growing  to  a  height  of  over 
a  hundred  feet,  are  spread — like  a  parasol — over  the 
heads  of  distinguished  Singaleses  by  their  servants. 

Above  Kandi  are  many  cinchona  and  coffee 
plantations  belonging  to  private  people.  The  coffee 
crop  did  not  yield,  when  I  was  there,  on  account  of 
the  appearance  of  the  devastating  Hemileia  vestatrix. 

To  the  sanitarium  "  Nuwarra-Ellia,"  a  distance 
of  47  miles  through  the  Hambodde  pass,  about  13 
miles  in  extention,  an  altitute  of  6,000  feet  has  to  be 
climbed,  and  after  a  descent  of  about  two  hours,  the 
road,  leading  to  the  sanitarium,  is  reached.  Sur 
rounded  by  mountains*  Nuwarra-Ellia  extends"  very 
romantically,  valley-like,  to  a  length  of  two  and  a 
width  of  one  mile. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  Nuwarra-Ellia  resided 
Sir  Samuel  Baker,  the  celebrated  traveller  and  ex 
plorer  of  the  Nile,  whose  acquaintance  I  had  made 
the  year  before  at  a  reception,  given  by  the  Yiceroy 
of  India,  in  Simla.  Sir  Baker  was  a  great  sportsman, 
and  often  had  occasion  to  use  his  couteau-de-chasse 
in  encounters  with  beasts  of  prey  infesting  this 
region.  Leopards,  wild  Elephants  and  Woodstags, 
etc.,  etc.,  are  in  abundance  in  these  woody  mountains. 

After  scaling  the  summit  of  the  highest  moun- 


—  33  — 

tain  in  Ceylon,  the  "Petrotallagalla,"  8,300  feet,  I  re 
turned  to  the  plains. 

The  other  high  mountains  in  Ceylon  are:  the 
«  Totapella,"  8,000,  the  "  Kirigallapotta,"  7,900,  and 
the  "Adams  Peak,"  7,700  feet  high. 

In  the  plains  of  Nuwarra-Ellia  as  well  as  in  the 
plains  of  Moon  stone,  Kondopalle,  Elk,  Totapella, 
Horton,  Bopatalava  and  Augura,  (all  these  together 
comprising  a  district  of  about  30  miles)  remains  of 
mines  for  the  produce  of  precious  stones  are  found. 
There  can  be  no  doubt,  that  the  produce  of  jewels  in 
former  times  has  been  a  very  lucrative  one,  for  even 
now,  small  rubies,  sapphires,  emeralds,  turmalines 
and  chrysoberyls  are  found  in  the  so-called  Ruby- 
valley,  below  the  surface  in  a  stratum  of  gravel. 

The  animal  kingdom  in  Ceylon — as  already 
mentioned — is  well  represented,  from  the  small  house 
lizard  to  the  iguanon,  about  four  feet  long,  and  the 
elephant.  A  peculiar  species  of  lizards,  nowhere  else 
to  be  found,  habitates  Ceylon.  Small  in  size  and 
thorn-backed,  with  a  long  horn  protruding  from  the 
upper  portion  of  the  mouth,  it  resembles  the  antedi 
luvian  monstre,  the  "  Iguanodon." 

After  my  return  to  Colombo  I  made  frequent 
excursions,  either  on  horseback  or  in  some  vehicle, 
to  Point-de-Galle  through  the  splendid  cocoa  tree 
forests. 

I  was  now  on  the  point  of  visiting  another  part 
of  "the  globe,  "Australia,"  and  must  confess,  the  very 

thought  of  leaving  India,  especially  Ceylon,  the  "  Pa- 

3 


—  34  — 

radise  of  the  East,"  fell  heavy  upon  me.  To  get  an 
idea  of  the  vastness  of  this  wonderful  country,  one 
must  consider,  that  23  distinct  languages  are  spoken 
in  India,  the  written  characters  of  all  these  languages 
differing  from  each  other  as  much  as  Roman  does 
from  German.  The  languages  spoken  are  :  1)  The 
Urdu,  (the  proper  Hindostan  language)  the  "French" 
of  India,  the  language  of  the  Mahometans  and  of  the 
trading  people,  mostly  spoken  in  Rohilcund,  Doab 
and  Oudh.  2)  The  Hindoo,  in  Kajpootana,  Oudh, 
Rohilcund,  Malva,  Bundlecund  and  by  the  agricul 
tural  Hindoos.  3)  The  Bengal,  in  Bengal  and  the 
East.  4)  Pushtoo,  in  Peshawar  and  in  the  far  West. 
5)  Sindhee,  in  Sinde  and  the  Cis-Sutlej  states.  6)  Pun 
jab,  in  the  great  Indus  Valley.  7)  Nepaulish,  in 
Nepaul.  8)  Cashmerish,  in  Cashmere.  9)  Guzerat- 
tee,  by  the  Parsees  and  in  Guzeratte.  10)  Assamish, 
in  Assam.  11)  Burmese,  in  Burmah  and  Pegu. 
12)  Cutchee,  in  Cutch,  13)  Bhootish,  in  Bootan. 
14)  The  Kaeren,  in  Burmah  and  Pegu.  15)  Sing 
halese,  in  Ceylon.  16)  The  Malay,  in  Travencore 
and  Cochin.  17)  The  Tamul,  from  Madras  to  Cape 
Comorin.  18)  Canarese,  in  Coorg  and  Mysore. 
19)  Teloogoish,  in  Hyderabad  and  along  the  eastern 
coast.  20)  The  Cole  and  Gond,  in  Berar.  21)  Khas- 
siyaish,  in  the  northeast.  22)  Ooryaish,  in  Orissa. 
23)  Mahrattan,  in  Bombay,  Nagpore  and  Gwalior. 

In  addition  to  these  23  languages,  the  better 
classes  converse  in  the  English,  Pali,  Sanscrit,  Per 
sian  and  Arabian  languages  and  what  is  said  about 


—  35  — 

differences  of  opinions :  "  Quot  homines,  tot  senten- 
tiae"  can  be  said  about  the  languages  in  India 

The  Hindoos,  undoubtedly  the  proudest  nation 
on  earth,  consider  their  country  to  be  the  primitive 
source  of  all  that  is  good  and  nice  and  from  where 
the  rest  of  the  world  receives  the  blessings.  The 
Indian  Empire  is  divided  into  British  territory  and 
fendatory  States,  acknowledging  sovereignity  of  Great 
Britain.  British-India  is  the  richest  and  most  pop 
ulous  dependency  of  the  English  crown.  Area, 
1,383,504  square  miles.  Population,  253,906,449. 

The  Government  is  entrusted  to  the  Secretary 
of  State  for  India.  He  is  aided  by  a  council  of  15 
members.  The  executive  authority  is  vested  in  the 
Governor-General,  appointed  by  the  British  crown 
and  a  council  of  7  members.  The  salary  of  the 
Governor-General  amounts  to  25,000  pounds  sterling 
per  year. 

The  population  is  dense.  The  density  varies 
from  441  per  square  mile  to  43,  average  for  all  India 
being  184.  Agriculture  is  backward.  The  means  of 
transportation  poor,  but  improving.  Eight  famines 
have  visited  India  and  decimated  the  population  of 
various  provinces. 

The  soil  is  productive,  rice,  corn,  millet,  barley 
and  wheat  are  growing ;  cotton,  indigo,  opium  and 
sugar-cane  are  largely  exported.  Education  is  im 
proving.  The  European  and  Native  army  numbers 
190,476  men.  The  Native  States  have  an  army  of 
349,835  men. 


—  36  — 

The  island  Ceylon,  situated  in  the  Indian  Ocean, 
south-east  of  India,  has  an  area  of  25,364  square  miles, 
is  260  miles  in  length  and  has  an  average  breadth  of 
100  miles.  The  climate  is  much  more  pleasant 
than  that  of  southern  India.  The  government  is  ad 
ministered  by  a  Governor  with  an  Executive  Council 
and  a  Legislative  Council.  Minerals  abound  and 
precious  stones  are  often  found.  The  pearl-fisheries 
of  the  western  coast  are  famous.  Bread  fruit,  cinna 
mon,  pepper,  rice,  cotton  and  tobacco  are  among  the 
chief  products  of  the  soil ;  and  coffee,  tea,  cinchona 
bark,  cocoanut-oil  among  the  export.  The  population 
is  estimated  at  2,700,000.  There  are  only  about 
4,000  Europeans  in  Ceylon.  I  remained  in  Point  de 
Galle,  waiting  for  a  steamer  of  the  Oriental  and 
Peninsular  Line,  and  procuring  passage  for  Austra 
lia,  I  bade  "India"  good-bye.— 

The  sea  voyage  from  Point  de  Galle  to  South 
Australia — passing  Cape  Lewis — lasted  sixteen  days, 
the  first  landing-place  being  Albany,  situated  on  the 
south  coast.  The  voyage  was  a  very  quiet  one  till  we 
reached  Albany,  then  we  had  violent  storms  for  the 
rest  of  the  voyage.  Here  resides  a  brother  of  the  well- 
known  explorer  of  South  America,  Mr.  Schomburgk. 

Adelaide,  the  capital  of  South  Australia,  with 
38,000  inhabitants,  of  which  a  great  many  are  Ger 
mans,  is  quite  a  lively  place. 

After  a  brief  stay  in  Adelaide,  I  proceeded  to 
Melbourne,  the  capital  of  Victoria,  with  290,000  in- 


37 

"  : 


habitants.  It  is  difficult  to  reach  the  port  of  the  city 
on  account  of  the  heads,  —  so-called  capes—  dividing 
the  outer  from  the  inner  harbor.  Melbourne  indul 
ges  in  the  protection  of  the  Tariff  in  opposition  to 
the  colonies  who  are  free  traders. 

My  sojourn  in  Melbourne  during  the  Interna 
tional  Exposition  and  extending  to  four  months, 
was  a  very  pleasant  one.  I  formed  many  valuable 
acquaintances  and  through  the  kindness  of  my  wor 
thy  and  learned  friend,  the  famous  botanist  and 
author  of  works,  on  the  "  Flora"  of  Australia,  Baron 
von  Miiller,  formerly  director  of  the  botonical  garden, 
now  Governments'  botanist,  I  was  enabled  to  send  a 
rich  collection  of  seeds,  fruits,  cones  etc.,  to  the  late 
Professor  Eichler,  director  of  the  botanical  garden 
and  museum  in  Berlin.  To  Baron  von  Miiller  and 
the  director  of  the  museum  of  Physical  Sciences  and 
the  director  of  the  botanical  garden  I  am  under  deep 
obligations  for  the  honor  conferred  upon  me,  —  in 
proposing  and  electing  me  a  Fellow  of  the  universal 
ly  renowned  "Linaeus  Society." 

The  astronomical  observatory  with  colossal 
telescopes  —  director,  Mr.  Ellery  —  is  a  very  fine  in 
stitution.  The  botanical  garden  near  the  river  Yara- 
Yara,  which  latter  almost  touches  the  city  is  roman 
tically  situated  and  was  completely  transformed 
since  Doctor  Gilford  is  the  director. 

The  goldmint  is  very  important.  Of  the  secre* 
tary  of  the  Minister  in  Victoria  I  received  valuable 
scientific  records  and  statistics.  On  one  of  my 


—  38  — 

excursions  to  the  interior  and  to  the  gold  regions, 
I  visited  Balarat  with  Alluvial  mines,  almost  extin 
guished,  whilst  the  Quartzgold  mines  are  in  a  bloom 
ing  condition. 

Sandhurst,  formerly  called  Bendigo,  as  well  as 
the  whole  gold  region  do  not  produce  so  much  now 
as  in  bygone  times. 

North  of  Balarat  I  visited  the  famous  Sheep- 
breeding  establishment  of  Sir  Samuel  Wilson  and 
went  from  there  on  the  Northern  boundary  to  the 
Murray  river  and  the  Riverina  district  on  the  other 
side.  This  region  is  notorious  for  its  fertility  and 
belongs  to  New  South  "Wales  with  the  capital  Sidney. 
The  climate  is  mild,  because  northerly. 

On  another  trip  to  the  Australian  Alps,  north 
west  of  Melbourne,  I  ascended  Mount  "Kosciusko," 
the  highest  point,  7000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
In  Fernshaw,  in  the  Australian  Alps,  the  giant  trees 
of  the  Eucalyptus  amygdala  gigantea  reach  the  extra 
ordinary  height  of  over  400  feet. 

In  the  course  of  the  winter  I  was  introduced  to 
Professor  von  Haast,  the  famous  geologist  who  re 
sided  in  Christchurch,  New  Zealand,  and  to  Sir 
Henry  Parks,  the  most  important  statesman  in 
Australia,  whilst  Graham  Berry,  the  defender  of  the 
trade  protective  policy  (  is  a  deciding  authority  in  all 
colonial  affairs. 

I  applied  to  Sir  Henry  Parks  to  effectuate  a  re 
solution  of  the  Parliament  to  grant  the  necessary 
means  for  the  discovery  of  the  remains  of  the  scien- 


—  39  — 

tific  traveller  Leichhardt,  arid  to  my  great  gratifica 
tion  I  have  met  with  success. 

East  of  Melbourne  is  the  Gipsland,  famous  for 
its  mild  and  moist  climate. 

I  now  set  out  for  Sidney  on  the  incompleted 
railroad,  crossing  the  river  Murray.  In  Albury — 
North  South  Wales — on  the  other  side  of  the  Murray 
river,  important  cultivation  of  vine  is  carried  on, 
mostly  by  Germans. 

On  the  road  from  Albury  to  Sidney  I  halted  at 
Wagga-Wagga,  memorable  through  the  Tichborne 
trial.  The  construction  of  railroads  is  after  the 
European  system. 

The  capital  Sidney  with  about  220,000  inhabi 
tants  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Sidney-bay,  the 
latter  making  deep  indentations,  thus  producing  an 
amphitheatrical  view  of  the  city. 

The  botanical  garden  is  not  as  large  as  that  of 
Melbourne,  but  is  much  nicer  situated  and  notewor 
thy  for  its  Araucaries.  There  is  also  a  museum  and 
an  observatory  here. 

I  had  the  pleasure  to  make  the  acquaintance  of 
Lord  Loftus,  formerly  English  embassador  to  Prus 
sia  and  now  governor  of  New  South  Wales  and  of 
the  German  Consul  General  for  Australia  and  the 
Fejee-Islands,  Doctor  Krauel. 

An  invitation  of  Mr.  Godefroy,  residing  in  the 
Fejees',  to  visit  him  had  to  be  respectfully  declined 
on  account  of  an  indisposition. 

Doctor  Bennett,  the  Ornithologist,  who  possesses 


—  40  — 

a  considerably  large  library,  was  also  one  of  my  newly 
acquired  and  valuable  connections. 

The  kindness  of  Doctor  Moore,  the  above  men 
tioned  director  of  the  botanical  garden  in  Sidney, 
who  deputed  his  assistant,  Doctor  "Weber,  a  German, 
to  accompany  me  to  the  Illawara  district  in  New 
South  Wales,  will  never  be  forgotten.  Here  I  had  a 
good  opportunity  to  study  the  "Flora"  of  Australia, 
especially  the  Palms.  The  coal  region  extends  all 
along  the  eastern  coast  of  New  South  "Wales. 

The  export  of  coals  from  New-Castle,  north  of 
Sidney,  (which  I  visited)  to  China  and  Japan  is  very 
large.  On  the  other  side  of  Sidney  harbor  is  a  tower, 
erected  by  a  philanthropic  German,  which  affords 
a  lovely  prospect  of  the  city  and  the  surroundings. 

West  of  Sidney,  in  Paramatta,  are  beautiful 
orange  groves  and  cottages.  A  branch  line  of  the 
railroad  carried  me  to  the  Blue  Mountains,  a  bril 
liant,  resplendent  sandstone-formation.  The  highest 
summits  of  this  mountain  chain,  not  exceeding  3,000 
feet,  consists  of  basalt,  and  with  the  slope,  Bathurst, 
a  coal  and  iron  mining  district  is  reached. 

I  returned  to  Sidney,  intending  to  go  to  New 
Zealand  but  was  prevented  from  doing  so  on  account 
of  the.  detention  at  quarantine  in  Aukland — the 
nearest  landing-place — where  every  passenger  com 
ing  from  Sidney  had  to  remain  a  period  of  time, 
Variola  at  that  time  raging  in  Sidney. 

A  sea  voyage  of  two  days  brought  me  to  Bris 
bane,  the  capital  of  Queensland,  with  36,000  inhab- 


—  41  — 

itants,  situated  on  a  river  having  the  same  name. 
Brisbane  is  the  seat  of  the  colonial  Parliament. 
The  botanical  garden  is  of  secondary  importance* 
Doctor  Bailey,  the  director  of  the  museum  in  Bris 
bane,  is  the  author  of  several  scientific  works. 

The  cultivation  of  the  sugar-cane  commences  in 
the  environs  of  Brisbane,  28  to  29°  southern  latitude 
and  still  far  northerly — as  in  all  Australian  colonies — 
isolated  gold  fields  are  to  be  found. 

On  the  high  plain,  west  of  Brisbane,  lies  the  city 
Toowooniba,  1500  feet  high.  Warwick,  in  the  midst 
of  extensive  pastures,  has  famous  cattle  and  sheep 
breedings  on  the  farms. 

In  Stanthorp — on  a  granite  formation — tin  is  ob 
tained  from  the  rivers  and  the  cultivation  of  fruits 
largely  pursued. 

I  travelled  back  to  Brisbane  and  found  it  very 
warm  there,  it  was  already  in  August,  and  sailed  along 
the  east  coast  and  the  coral  reefs,  1,100  miles  in 
length,  where  several  stoppages  were  made.  Steer 
ing  northward  now,  the  course  of  the  coast  changes 
after  a  few  days  westerly,  and  leads  to  Thursday 
Island  with  important  pearlfisheries,  and  from  where 
— the  weather  permitting — the  coast  of  New  Guinea 
is  clearly  visible,  and  along  the  Gulf  of  Carpentaria 
and  several  islands  of  the  Sunda  sea,  as  for  instance 
Timor,  Sumbava  and  Bali,  well-known  from  former 
visitations  of  earthquakes. 

Leaving  Bali,  the  east  coast  of  Java  appeared  in 
sight  and  we  were  most  disagreeably  surprised  to  see 


—  42  — 

the  yellow  flag  hoisted — a  warning  that  the  Cholera 
was  raging  in  Java.  Batavia,  the  capital  of  Java, 
has  about  99,000  inhabitants.  The  European  quar 
ter  is  at  Weltenvreden,  a  suburb  of  Batavia.  Here 
is  the  winterpalace  of  the  Governor-General. 

The  zoological  garden  contains  beautiful  speci 
men  of  Ourang-Outangs.  The  many  military  and 
civil  clubs  heighten  the  attraction  of  the  place.  The 
commerce  in  staplegoods  and  the  trade  in  coffee  and 
sugar  is  important.  80  miles  from  here,  at  the  basis 
of  the  mountains  is  Buytenzorg. 

The  Governor-General  s'  Jaacobs  had  the  good 
ness  to  furnish  me  with  recommendations  to  the 
residents  in  the  country  and  to  his  friend,  Mr.  Holle, 
the  owner  of  large  tea  plantations  in  the  interior. 

Buytenzorg,  in  my  opinion,  has  the  most  impor 
tant  botanical  garden  in  the  world.  It  is  almost 
impossible  to  give  a  description  of  the  variety  of 
plants,  etc.,  which  delight  the  eyes  of  the  visitor  of 
this  lovely  spot.  Nepenthes  of  an  unusual  brilliancy 
grow  here  abundantly.  Here  also,  as  somewhere  else, 
the  director  of  the  botanical  garden,  Doctor  Treub, 
favored  me  with  his  kindness,  so  much  so,  that  the 
iDotanical  garden  in  Berlin  again  received  a  valuable 
sending  of  fruits,  plants,  seeds,  roots,  etc.,  etc. 

In  the  hospital  for  Berri-berri  patients — this 
malady  appearing  in  some  tropical  climates — begin 
ning  with  Oedema  of  the  lower  extremities  and 
generally  ending  fatally — I  found  a  great  number 


—  43  — 

of  persons  afflicted  with  this  dreadful  disease — some 
of  them  in  a  dying  condition. 

The  agricultural  institute  is  very  important. 

The  summer  palace  of  the  Governor-General  is 
also  here. 

Domestic  weapons  are  offered  for  sale  every 
where  in  this  palace. 

To  reach  Sindanglaya,  3,800  feet  above  the  sea, 
vehicles,  drawn  by  ponies,  had  to  be  hired.  The 
road  is  in  a  very  good  condition,  and  leads  through 
a  magnificent  Flora.  Every  five  miles  the  caravan 
passes  through  a  so-called  Tal  (an  old  post  station), 
and  rests  for  a  while.  The  latter  part  of  this  journey 
is  performed  over  a  mountain  pass  of  the  Ghedde 
mountains. 

The  valley  of  Sindanglaya  is  pretty  well  settled 
and  cultivated,  the  climate  of  which  is  very  healthy, 
and  affords  protection  against  all  kinds  of  fevers. 

The  cultivation  of  rice  —  like  almost  everywhere 
in  Java  —  is  carried  on  in  a  large  style,  drainage 
universally. 

My  next  aim  was  "Wandong,  the  capital  of 
Preanger,  2,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

Wandong  is  the  seat  of  the  Eesident  and  the 
Regent,  and  is  surrounded  by  mountains.  The 
Regents  in  Java  are  former  land  proprietors  and 
Mahometan  princes.  Their  duties  consist  in  settling 
disputes  amongst  the  Natives  (Mahometans)  and  in 
procuring  shelter  for  travellers* 

The  morals  of  the  Natives  in  this  country  are 


—    44:    — 

not  as  strict  as  those  of  their  co-religionists  in  India 
or  elsewhere.  They  indulge  in  wine  and  entertain 
an  almost  amicable  relationship  with  Europeans. 

The  Eesident  van  Yloeten,  to  whose  family  I 
had  already  been  introduced  in  Batavia,  received  me 
most  cordially,  and  I  shall  never  forget  his  kindness. 

A  visit  to  the  cinchona  plantation,  5,000  feet 
above  the  sea,  on  a  volcanic  formation,  was  worth  the 
troublesome  travel. 

The  bark  of  the  Calisaya  Ledgeriana,  here  cul 
tivated,  yields  from  10  to  12  per  cent,  quinine,  whilst 
from  the  Indian  scarcely  3  per  cent,  is  obtained. 

Messrs.  Junghuhn  and  Haszkarl,  two  well-known 
savants,  authors  of  many  valuable  works  on  natural 
sciences,  deserve  the  credit  to  have  added  greatly  to 
the  introduction,  respectively  the  cultivation  of 
quinine  on  the  Island. 

The  mountain  Flora  of  Java  has  been  minutely 
described  by  Mr.  Junghuhn,  whose  monument  is 
found  at  the  base  of  the  mountain  on  which  the 
above  mentioned  plantation  is  situated. 

A  rich  tropic  vegetation  surrounds  the  traveller 
until  Lembong  is  reached,  when  a  horse  has  to  be 
mounted  in  order  to  ascend  to  the  cinchona  plan- 
tation. 

The  lower  part  of  the  mountain  is  planted  with 
tobacco. 

My  reception  on  the  plantation  by  the  Natives 
will  never  be  forgotten  by  me.  They  did  all  in  their 
power  to  make  my  stay  there  agreeable  —  dancing, 


—  45  — 

singing  and  performing  all  sorts  of  native  juggleries, 
going  on  all  the  time. 

Returning  to  Sindanglaya  I  made  preparations 
for  the  intended  visit  to  the  Volcano  Ghedde,  10,000 
feet  above  the  sea. 

I  found  a  companion  in  the  person  of  the  Dutch 
Colonel  Smith,  and  at  about  nine  o'clock  in  the 
evening  we  started  on  horseback,  with  our  guard  and 
torchlight  bearers  in  the  front  and  rear. 

The  way  leads  through  dense  forests  and  an 
immensely  rich  tropical  vegetation. 

Here  also,  as  on  the  ascent  of  the  Kawa  Opus 
crater,  the  caTalcade  rests  at  the  different  stations, 
and  at  the  break  oi:  day  the  open  plane,  underneath 
which  is  the  little  hut  where  travellers  make  a  long 
siesta,  is  reached. 

It  is  superfluous  to  describe  this  volcano,  as  it 
resembles  in  every  respect  the  Kawa-Opus  and 
Kawa-Eatu,  the  same  desert-like  surroundings,  total 
absence  of  any  vegetation,  or  dwarf  bushes  here  and 
there,  contrasting  with  the  lovely  verdure  of  the 
lower  parts  of  the  mountain.  The  approach  of  the 
rainy  season  was  to  be  expected  soon — it  being 
November ;  the  heat  was  almost  unbearable,  not  less 
than  100°  in  the  shade,  and  I*was,  therefore,  anxious 
to  leave  the  Island  and  take  passage  in  Batavia  for 
Singapore. 

A  peculiarity  on  the  Island  of  Java  is  the  law 
which  prohibits  the  hoisting  of  any  other  flag  than 
the  Netherland. 


—  46  — 

In  the  eastern  part  of  the  Island  the  Japanese 
language  is  spoken  ;  in  the  west  the  Sundanese,  and 
on  the  coast  Malayan,  whilst  French  and  Dutch  are 
in  general  use,  especially  by  commercial  people. 

Agriculture,  formerly  feudalistic,  is  progressing 
favorably  now,  and  has  been  ever  since  that  system 
was  abandoned,  and  the  population  is  becoming 
somewhat  prosperous. 

The  most  important  colony  of  the  Netherland 
Indies  is  Java,  which  politically  includes  the  neigh 
boring  Island  of  Madura.  The  total  area,  50,848 
square  miles.  Population,  20,259,000. 

Java  is  governed  under  what  ia  termed  the 
Culture  system,  which  was  established  in  1832. 

By  far  the  larger  part  of  the  commerce  of  Java 
is  with  the  Netherlands. 

The  principal  exports  are  sugar,  coffee,  rice, 
indigo  and  tobacco. 

I  left  Batavia  in  the  first  part  of  the  month  of 
November  on  a  Dutch  steamer  carrying  troops  for 
Acheen,  one  of  the  two  capitals  of  the  Island  of 
Sumatra,  and  intended  to  proceed  to  Singapore. 

The  voyage  was  not  very  pleasant  for  me. 

We  had  not  reached  the  Island  of  Rhio,  when, 
to  my  great  horror,  Asiatic  cholera  was  raging  among 
the  soldiers  on  board  the  ship,  decimating  them  and 
leaving  us  in  constant  fear  to  be  also  subjected  to  this 
terrible  scourge. 

Notwithstanding  the  protests  of  the  authorities 
of  Ehio,  the  landing  of  all  the  sick  was  effected 


—  47  — 

there,  and  we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  leaving  them 
at  Khio,  situated  on  the  Equator. 

I  remained  for  some  time  in  Singapore,  whose 
population  consists  mostly  of  Chinese,  some  of  whom 
are  very  wealthy. 

Singapore  is  a  free  port.  The  climate,  though 
in  the  dreaded  neighborhood  of  the  Sunda  Islands 
and  the  Indian  continent,  is  tropical  and  healthy. 

The  environs  of  Singapore  are  almost  infested 
with  tigers,  and  one  is  assured  here  that  not  a  single 
day  in  the  year  passes  without  that  at  least  one 
Chinese  is  devoured  by  the  brutes. 

There  are  extensive  plantations  of  tapioka,  a 
Maranthus,  in  the  interior.  The  cultivation  of  betel 
pepper  and  cocoanut  palms  is  also  very  important, 
and  from  the  many  odoriferous  grasses  and  weeds 
essential  oils  are  extracted,  especially  from  the 
lemon  grass. 

By  the  kindness  of  the  English  Governor,  Sir 
Frederic  Weld,  residing  here,  who  gave  me  a  very 
cordial  reception,  I  was  introduced  to  the  Resident 
of  Perak,  and  was  invited  by  the  latter  to  visit  him. 

A  special  invitation  of  the  Maharajah  of  Johore,. 
whose  magnificent  palace  is  situated  in  the  extreme 
south  of  the  Malayan  peninsula,  to  be  his  guest,  was 
heartily  welcomed.  After  a  three  days'  stay  there, 
he  requested  his  nephew  to  accompany  me  to  the 
Gambir  and  Pepper  plantations,  in  the  interior ;  and 
to  the  Indigo,  Yam  and  Sago  plantations  in  the 
southwesterly  part  of  the  State. 


In  order  to  reach  these  latter,  the  so-called 
straits  —  a  waterway  —  have  to  be  crossed,  and  for 
that  purpose  the  Maharajah  had  a  small  steamer, 
used  only  by  himself,  in  readiness  for  us. 

The  great  kindness-  and  generosity  of  the 
Maharajah  enabled  me  to  study  the  country  pro 
foundly. 

On  this  journey  I  found  remnants  of  an  aban 
doned  nutmeg  cultivation. 

Livery  and  coachmen  in  this  part  of  the  country 
recruit  themselves  from  India,  whilst  the  rest  of  the 
serving  class  consists  of  Malayans. 

The  language  is  Malaye,  the  religion  Mahometan 
or  Hindoo. 

On  an  excursion  to  the  Island  of  Penang,  4°  north 
between  Sumatra  and  the  Malayan  Peninsula,  on 
which  way  Malacca  has  to  be  passed,  I  had  the 
honor  to  be  the  guest  of  Lieutenant-Governor  Anson. 

The  city  of  Penang  is  romantically  situated  ;  the 
population  mostly  Chinese. 

On  board  a  steamer  belonging  to  the  Govern 
ment,  and  generously  put  at  my  disposal,  I  proceeded 
to  Perak  to  visit  the  Eesident,  and  traveled  from 
there  to  the  tin-mining  region,  worked  by  Chinamen. 

Many  coffee  plantations  are  found  in  this 
mountainous  country,  and  to  visit  the  Government's 
plantation  I  had  to  ride  on  the  back  of  an  elephant. 
The  cultivation  of  Durian,  a  fruit,  tasting  like  cheese, 
and  which  reaches  the  size  of  a  child's  head,  is  car 
ried  on  here. 


—  49  — 

At  the  request  of  the  German  Consul-General, 
Mr.  Bieber,  to  study  the  cultivation  of  sugar  cane  in 
the  Province  of  Wellesley  and  elsewhere,  and  to  pro 
cure  all  possible  statistics  regarding  the  same,  I 
started  after  my  return  to  Penang  for  Wellesley. 

This  country  is  very  low,  on  a  level  with  the  sea. 
I  found  all  plantations,  etc.,  alike.  There  are  a  great 
many  canals,  serving  to  drain  the  country  and  to 
ship  the  cane,  sugar,  etc.  I  also  went  to  Siam,  the 
neighboring  state  of  Wellesley,  and  gathered  all 
profitable  knowledge  about  the  sugar  cane  cultiva 
tion  and  the  manufacturing  of  sugar,  and  after  com 
municating  the  same  to  the  Consul,  I  returned  to 
Singapore. 

The  Islands  of  Singapore  and  Penang,  and  the 
territories  of  Malacca  and  the  Province  of  Wellesley 
constitute  the  Straits  Settlements  of  Great  Britain, 
which,  politically,  with  six  provinces  in  Siam  and  a 
number  of  small  Malay  states,  either  tributary  to,  or 
in  treaty  with  the  above  powers,  belong  to  the 
Asiatic  peninsula,  Malay,  the  southernmost  point  of 
the  Continent. 

The  area  of  Malay  is  about  70,000  square  miles, 
and  the  estimated  population  650,000.  Of  the 
interior  of  this  country  there  is  less  known  than  of 
any  other  point  in  Asia.  The  surface  is  very  uneven, 
the  climate  moist  and  hot,  the  temperature  on  the 
Makran  coast  and  in  the  Persian  Gulf  is  110°  and  at 
times  125°. 

4 


—  50  — 

Out  of  365  days,  190  are  rainy,  the  rainfall  from 
100  to  130  inches. 

The  straits  settlements  have  an  area  of  1,445 
square  miles  and  423,384  population. 

From  Singapore  to  Hong-Kong  the  sea  voyage 
lasted  eight  days  and  was  a  very  unpleasant  one,  as 
we  had  to  suffer  from  very  vehement  northeast 
Monsoons. 

Hong-Kong  is  a  colony  of  Great  Britain  and 
was  formerly  a  part  of  China.  It  consists  of  the 
Islands  of  Hong-Kong,  ceded  to  Great  Britain  in 
1881,  and  the  opposite  Peninsula  of  Kow-loon,  ceded 
to  England  in  1861.  The  government  is  administered 
by  a  Governor,  aided  by  an  Executive  Council. 
There  is  also  a  Legislative  Council.  The  total 
population  of  Hong-Kong  is  160,420,  of  whom  but 
7,900  are  white  persons. 

Hong-Kong  forms  the  centre  of  trade  for  many 
different  kinds  of  goods.  Its  commerce  is  virtually 
a  part  of  that  of  China,  and  is  chiefly  carried  on  with 
the  United  States,  Germany  and  Great  Britain. 

The  tea  and  silk  trade  of  China  is  largely  in  the 
hands  of  Hong-Kong  firms. 

The  country  is  but  little  cultivated  and  crossed 
by  a  sinister  mountain  range.  Most  all  the  vege 
tables  are  shipped  from  Macao  to  this  country. 

A  very  bad  fever,  called  the  Hong-Kong  fever, 
a  combination  of  cholera,  yellow  and  typhoid  fever, 
is  raging  here,  but  is  diminishing  now  on  account  of 
the  sanitary  precautions. 


—  51  — 

The  principal  place  is  Victoria,  situated  in  the 
north  of  the  Chinese  coast. 

South  of  the  city,  on  a  high  mountain,  are  the 
fortifications,  separating  the  city  from  the  sea. 

The  commercial  part  of  the  city  is  close  to  the 
port,  the  other,  in  a  terrace-like  elevation,  extends 
to  the  mountain  south  of  Victoria. 

There  are  many  Portuguese  here  intermarrying 
with  the  Chinese  populace. 

At  the  time  of  my  stay  in  Hong-Kong,  Doctor 
von  Moellendorf,  the  well-known  zoologist,  was  the 
representative  of  the  German  Empire  there. 

Here  also  it  was,  where  I  received  the  honor 
able  commission  from  Professor  Bastian  and  Doctor 
Jagor,  of  Berlin,  Prussia,  to  extend  my  travels  to  the 
little  explored  Philippines  for  the  purpose  of  ethno 
graphic  studies  and  the  collection  of  anthropological 
and  ethnological  objects,  thus  to  enrich  science. 

I  will  show  later,  how  I  managed  to  meet  the 
gratification  of  these  two  "  Hommes  celebres  "  and 
the  famous  pathologist,  Professor  Doctor  Virchow> 
in  Berlin. 

I  made  frequent  excursions  on  steamers — all  of 
which  were  well  armed,  to  stand  an  attack  of  the 
pirates — sailing  through  the  bay  and  along  the  Pearl 
river.  From  the  deck  of  the  steamer,  when  on  the 
river,  the  most  prominent  Pagodes  of  Canton  are 
visible. 

On  one  of  these  extravaganzas,  I  visited  Canton, 
and  after  inspecting  the  open  vaults  with  their 


—  52  — 

costly  sarcophagos  and  admiring  the  gorgeously 
ornamented  Pagodes  and  the  pretty  Jade  works 
manufactured  here,  I  left  Canton,  not  without  having 
seen  the  "Public  Execution  Grounds,"  and  returned 
to  Hong-Kong  to  make  arrangements  for  the  pro 
bably  long  lasting  tour  to  the  Philippine  Islands. 

Having  succeeded  in  procuring  some  indispens 
able  vademecums  for  that  voyage,  I  hastened  my 
departure  from  Hong-Kong,  and  landed  first  in  Macao, 
a  Portuguese  possession  on  the  Chinese  boundary. 

Macao  is  a  beautifully  situated  city,  the  bay  one 
of  the  finest. 

Partially  surrounded  by  verdant  hills,  with 
lovely  flower  gardens  and  villas  in  the  centres,  the 
city  makes  a  favorable  impression  on  the  stranger. 
Were  it  not  for  the  almost  uninterrupted  tolling  of 
the  many  church  and  convent  bells,  which  is  often 
deafening,  the  sojourn  in  Macao  would  be  very 
agreeable. 

The  population  is  very  mixed,  and  one  is  sur 
prised  to  find  so  many  idlers  in  the  streets  and 
squares. 

Portuguese,  Chinamen  and  Negroes,  are  met 
with  at  every  step;  also,  Priests,  Patres,  Fratres 
and  Nuns. 

Women,  most  of  whom  are  of  a  dark  color,  dress 
in  the  Portuguese  style,  with  the  indispensable 
Manto  and  the  high  colored  cloth  wound  around  the 
head. 

The  gambling  dens  of  Macao  are  of  world-fame. 


—  53  — 

From  here  it  takes  three  days  for  Manila,  the 
capital  of  Luzon,  one  of  the  Philippine  Islands. 

A  small  boat  with  four  or  six  rowers  brings  the 
traveller  to  the  city,  only  to  be  subjected  to  great 
troubles  by  the  custom  officers  (Duana).  Manila 
has  a  botanical  garden,  small,  but  exceedingly 
pretty. 

Here  I  had  the  great  honor  to  form  the  acquaint 
ance  of  Captain-General  Primo  di  Kivera,  the  famous 
botanist  Yidal,  the  Jesuit,  Padre  Faura,  whose 
scientific  works  on  the  Chinese  Tai-Fun  are  well- 
known,  the  German  Consul-General  Kemperman  and 
the  chemist  Grupe,  all  of  which  were  instrumental  in 
my  successful  explorations. 

Padre  Faura  requested  me  to  visit  the  district 
of  Dupax,  where,  especially  in  the  last  twelve 
months,  frequent  earthquakes  occurred.  I  gratified 
the  wish  of  that  gentleman  as  will  be  seen  hereafter. 

Of  the  population  of  Manila,  Indians  of  the. 
Malayan  race  are  in  plurality.  They  are  called 
Indianos.  The  rest  of  the  inhabitants  consists  of 
Negritos,  Mestizos  and  Europeans. 

The  Mestizos  are  a  beautiful  set  of  men,  and 
most  all  of  them  are  in  good  circumstances.  The 
Singleys,  cross-breeds  of  Chinese  and  Indianos,  are 
also  well  to  do.  Population  of  Manila,  160,000. 

Though  not  a  professional  Ethnologist  —  my 
favorite  studies  were  always  Natural  Sciences— I 
accepted  the  honorable  commission  of  the  celebrated, 
German  Savants,  to  explore  the  north  of  Luzon,  the 


—  54  — 

largest  island  of  the  Philippines,  with  great  joy  and 
a  pride,  impossible  to  describe. 

The  science  of  Ethnography  up  to  that  time 
was  a  "  terra  incognita  "  to  me,  and  yet  I  was  full  of 
hopes  to  meet  with  success. 

Of  all  the  distant  islands  and  groups  lying  just 
off  the  coast  of  southeastern  Asia,  in  Malaysia,  none 
had  been  less  explored  by  scientific  travellers  than 
the  Philippines;  whether  from  their  geographical 
situation  in  that  remote  corner  of  the  world  or  from 
the  hardships  and  exposures  to  which  one  is  sub 
jected  in  the  uncultivated  and  wild  interior,  is  a 
mere  conjecture. 

Of  the  few  visitors  of  scientific-literary  fame, 
who  explored  part  of  the  Philippines  ethnolgically 
or  for  the  purpose  of  natural  sciences,  the  following 
gentlemen  have  to  be  mentioned :  Professor  Carl 
Semper  in  Wuerzburg,  von  Drasche,  Doctor  Jagor 
and  Meyer,  all  Germans. 

The  explorations  which  Professor  Semper  made 
amongst  the  Negritos,  are  undoubtedly  the  most 
important.  Doctor  Jagor' s  work,  in  which  the 
learned  gentleman  describes  the  Philippines,  has 
been  translated  by  my  worthy  friend,  the  botanist 
Vidal  in  Manila,  into  Spanish. 

I  found  a  companion  for  the  probable  weary- 
some  tour  to  the  north,  in  the  person  of  the  Literary, 
Mr.  Au,  a  German,  and  preparing  ourselves  for  this 
extensive  journey,  we  intended  to  start  from  a  certain 
point,  in  different  directions  and  meet  again,  but  had 


—  55  — 

to  abandon  this  plan  on  account  of  the  unsafety  in 
this  country. 

It  would  fill  pages  to  specify  all  the  articles 
which  we  bought  for  the  trip,  suffice  to  say,  the 
apparatus  for  photographs,  cooking  utensils,  tent, 
arms  and  provisions,  were  a  great  burden  to  us. 

Before  starting  from  Manila,  we  visited  the 
Lagunas  in  the  vicinity,  the  Botocan  Cascades  and 
the  Volcano  Tal. 

On  the  morning  of  the  20th  of  March,  the  little 
expedition  left  Manila  in  the  best  of  humor,  and 
crossed  the  northeasterly  point  of  the  bay  to  Bulacan 
and  thence  through  well  cultivated  land  and  Quingo, 
Balinag,  San  Miguel  de  Mayum  to  San  Isidro,  where 
we  were  hospitably  received  by  the  Commander  of 
the  Guardia  Civil,  Mr.  Scheidnagel,  having  been 
recommended  by  Mr.  Yidal. 

Mr.  Scheidnagel  takes  a  great  interest  in  natural 
sciences,  and  is  the  author  of  a  work  on  the  Phil 
ippines  and  on  Benguet  in  special,  which  latter  he 
describes  in  a  separate  little  book. 

In  the  latest  German  ethnographical  works  the 
name  of  Scheidnagel  is  honorably  mentioned,  and 
his  work  recommended. 

For  our  scientific  purposes,  his  letters  of  recom 
mendation  to  the  Governors  of  the  provinces  of 
Nueva  Yiscaya  and  Principe,  and  to  his  subordinate 
Chiefs  of  the  GuarJia  Civil  were  of  incalculable 
advantage  and  gave  us  the  right  to  demand  a  military 
escort  in  case  of  necessity. 


—  56  — 

Finding  nothing  of  interest  in  this  and  tKe 
middle  part  of  Nueva  Ecija,  we  proceeded  to  the 
north,  passing  Calavetuan,  Talaveras,  San  Jose  and 
Punkan. 

We  remained  several  days  in  Caraglan,  in  whose 
neighborhood  Kancherias'  of  a  wild  tribe,  the  Ibilaos 
or  Ilongotes,  exist. 

The  Franciscan  Monk  in  Caraglan  possessing  a 
great  knowledge  of  the  country  and  the  people 
inhabiting  the  same,  participated  in  our  undertaking, 
and  in  company  with  the  sergeant  of  the  Guardia 
Civil  stationed  there,  conducted  us  to  the  distant 
Eancheria  of  the  Ibilaos,  giving  his  best  advises  as 
how  to  procure  ethnographic  objects. 

Of  the  many  photographs  which  we  had  made 
in  this  Eancheria  of  the  wild  tribe,  only  one  was  suc 
cessfully  obtained,  the  high  temperature  of  the  water 
and  its  limy  contents  damaged  them  considerably. 

Thanks  to  the  indefatigable  Frater,  who  also 
acts  as  a  spiritual  functionary,  we  succeeded  in 
procuring  great  quantities  of  ethnographic  objects, 
such  as  arms,  ornaments  and  articles  for  domestic 
use. 

All  these  objects  were  received  by  us  in  exchange 
for  clothes,  jewelry,  etc.  After  leaving  Caraglan  we 
crossed,  north  of  the  latter,  the  Carabalho  mountains, 
which  divide  the  two  provinces  of  Nueva  Ecija  and, 
Nueva  Yiscaya. 

On  both  sides  of  the  mountains  live  the  above 
mentioned  Ibilaos  or  Ilongotes. 


—  57  — 

From  the  Carabalho  Sur  (southern  Carabalho) 
on  the  east  and  southeast  to  Cassiguran  and  Buler, 
and  in  the  south,  extending  to  Caraglan,  San  Jose,, 
etc.,  Ibilaos  Rancherias  are  scattered  everywhere. 

The  Carabalho  Sur  divides  the  middle  of  north 
ern  Luzon  and  inclines  in  the  western  and  eastern 
part  of  the  island  toward  the  north  and  south,  thus 
forming  large  sized  central  planes  in  the  north  and 
south. 

On  the  other,  the  northern  part  of  this  Cordil- 
lere,  called  Carabalho,  and  along  the  many  branches, 
as  far  as  to  the  eastern  part  of  the  mountains  in 
Nueva  Viscaya,  Ibilaos  are  also  living. 

The  Cordillere  in  the  east  of  Yiscaya  is  but 
little  known. 

Opposite  Bayambong  in  the  East  is  a  mountain 
4000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  considered 
to  be  the  centre  of  the  earthquakes  of  late. 

We  could  not  get  any  information  about  this 
mountain  nor  the  dense,  primitive  forests  or  the 
inhabitants. 

The  Ibilaos  of  other  districts  only  knew  that 
their  enemies  inhabit  that  region.  They  called  them 
Ibalaos  or  Ilongotes  like  themselves  and  would  not 
— under  any  consideration — accompany  us,  so  much 
afraid  were  they  of  them. 

As  there  are  a  great  many  Rancherias,  I  will 
only  mention  a  few  of  them,  the  names,  as  given  by 
the  Ibilaos.  In  Carabalho  Sur  are  three,  high  up  in 
the  West,  Liroc. 


—  58  — 

Along  the  east  coast,  south  of  Cassiguran  in  the 
adjacent  mountains,  are  Dagan,  Ampatan  and  many 
unknown  small  ones.  Near  Buler  (Principe)  Patang 
and  Gumiat. 

To  the  south  and  west  of  Buler  live  Balugas, 
.also  called  Dumagas,  belonging  to  the  Negritos 
which  are  spread  almost  over  the  whole  north  of 
Luzon. 

The  inhabitants  of  Cassiguran  (Contra  Costa) 
are  called  Ipogaos. 

Eancheria  Resale,  which  we  visited,  contains 
from  12  to  15  houses  and  has  tobacco,  sugar  cane, 
camote  and  banana  plantations. 

In  the  gardens  of  the  Ibilaos,  Camote,  (Con 
volvulus  batata)  Gave,  (Calladium  esculentum,  or 
Sagittae  folium  of  Linne)  of  which  only  the  root  and 
the  leaves  are  eaten,  corn,  onions,  garlick  and  rice 
are  cultivated. 

The  rice  crop  yields  but  little,  drainage  not 
existing. 

The  Ibilaos  of  Eosale  communicate  with  the 
Indians  and  seemed  to  be  of  an  obliging  and  trust 
worthy  character  and  quite  Harmless. 

According  to  their  own  statement,  they  have  a 
kind  of  a  religion. 

Though  the  sun  and  the  moon  are  not  wor 
shipped  by  them,  they  nevertheless  consult  them  as 
oracles. 

The  halo  of  the  moon  or  the  sun,  the  appear 
ance  of  these  bodies  when  they  rise  or  set,  whether 


—  59  — 

stars  are  visible  in  their  neighborhood,  or  if  nebula 
exist  and  how  they  are  formed,  all  this  influences  the 
Ibilao  in  all  his  undertakings.  Deductions  are 
made  from  them  and  their  natural  superstition  is 
systematically  nourished. 

Monogamy  is  the  only  legal  form  among  the 
Ibilaos  and  fornication  is  punished  with  the  death 
of  both  guilty  parties,  it  becoming  the  duty  of  the 
nearest  relatives  of  the  incriminated  to  put  them  to 
death. 

At  a  very  early  stage  of  life  children  marry, 
(the  parents  stipulating  a  verbal  marriage  contract) 
and  unite  when  at  a  mature  age,  then  the  real 
wedding  takes  place. 

The  dowry  consists  of  a  certain  number  of 
weapons,  domestic  utensils  and  pigs,  and  is  selected, 
naturally  under  the  influence  of  her  parents,  by  the 
bride. 

Intermarriages  in  large  families  are  common, 
but  never  does  a  brother  marry  his  sister. 

Newly  born  infants  receive  a  kind  of  a  baptism, 
water  is  spilled  on  their  heads  and  salt  put  into  the 
mouths  by  an  old  woman. 

Baptisations,  weddings  and  funerals  are  always 
followed  by  bacchanalies,  the  same  as  with  the 
Indians. 

The  Ibilaos  do  not  know  any  divisions  of  time 
or  seasons  except  the  time  of  the  harvest. 

Nunos,  their  evil  spirit,  is  very  much  feared  by 


—  60  — 

them,  as  it  is  lie  who  sends  all  the  misfortunes,  and 
he  is  therefore  invited  to  all  their  festivities. 

Of  medicinal  plants  they  only  know  a  few  herbs 
and  barks  of  trees  and  these  are  only  used  for  ex 
ternal  wounds,  etc.  Their  weapons  are  the  campilang, 
a  sheathknife,  the  lancet,  arrow  and  shield.  Ear 
rings,  necklaces  and  bracelets  are  worn  on  the  tipper 
part  of  the  arm  by  both  sexes  and  the  waistcloths 
are  the  usual  ornaments  of  the  Ibilaos. 

Cowards  by  nature,  they  are  very  treacherous 
and  very  much  feared  for  their  cruelty  and  brutality, 
not  only  do  they  persecute  their  greatest  enemies, 
the  Negritos,  but  are  in  constant  war  with  their  own 
tribes  or  even  kinsmen. 

Armed  from  head  to  foot  and  using  the  same 
weapons  as  their  western  neighbors  of  the  Central 
Cordillere,  the  Igorrotes,  they  are  born  warriors. 

The  industry  of  the  Ibilaos  is  very  limited  and 
is  confined  to  the  weaving  or  rather  binding  of  the 
fibre  of  a  plant  into  Parneros,  (sieves)  and  Cribas  de 
bejuce  (baskets),  also  in  the  collecting  of  honey  and 
wax.  All  the  mentioned  articles  are  either  sold  or 
exchanged  in  the  Christian  villages. 

Hunting  is  one  of  their  favorite  sports.  Their 
cruelty  is  without  limit  and  their  bloodthirst  makes 
no  distinction  between  friend  or  foe. 

They  murder  Negritos  and  Indians  of  the  neigh 
boring  villages,  where  and  whenever  they  get  a 
chance  to  do  so,  but  not  like  the  Igorrotes  for  mere 


—  61  — 

bravado.  The  motives  of  their  killing  in  most  in 
stances  is  superstition. 

The  most  precious  thing  a  young  man  tenders 
to  his  affianced  is  a  finger,  an  ear  or  any  other  limb 
of  a  person  murdered  by  him. 

To-day,  several  tribes  unite  to  execute  their 
fiendish  purposes  of  killing  harmless  persons,  and 
to  morrow,  perhaps,  we  find  these  same  tribes  as 
bitter  antagonists,  murdering  each  other  for  no  cause 
but  to  satisfy  their  bloodthirsty  passions. 

In  these  bloody  expeditions  the  young  sons  of  the 
Ibilaos  participate,  or  when  of  too  tender  an  age,  are 
instructed  by  their  fathers  in  the  art  of  severing  the 
head  from  the  body  of  a  murdered  person. 

At  the  death  of  a  member  of  a  family,  the  lat 
ter,  accompanied  by  friends,  leave  the  Eancheria  in 
a  procession  and  murder  whoever  comes  in  sight  of 
them,  thus  avenging  the  dead. 

This  same  bloody  ceremony  is  performed  by  the 
Ibilaos  after  harvesting,  to  offer  thanks  to  the  in 
fernal  gods. 

The  density  of  the  mountain-forests  and  the 
almost  impassable,  narrow  and  uneven  roads  are  the 
cause  that  these  barbarians  can  not  be  persecuted. 

Though,  as  already  described,  well  armed,  they 
also  use  Puas'  (traps)  from  which — once  entrapped — 
no  one  can  extricate  himself. 

Barely  are  two  Ibilaos  seen  wandering  the  same 
way  together,  for  fear  that  their  footprints  would  be 
followed  and  the  place  of  concealment  revealed. 


—  62  — 

According  to  Professor  Blumentritt,  the  Ibilaos 
of  Carabalho  Sur  live  only  towards  the  North  and 
Northwest,  their  habitations  extending  to  the  Cara 
balho  de  Buler. 

The  same  author  describes  them  as  of  small 
stature  and  weak  physical  strength,  that  Negrito- 
blood  flows  through  their  veins  and  that  they  have 
no  agriculture. 

Our  observations  differ  greatly  from  the  above, 
inasmuch  as  we  have  already  described,  that  we  had 
seen  their  cultivation  of  cereals  and  fruits,  etc.  The 
statement  about  the  Negritoblood  can  not  be  applied 
exclusively  to  the  Ibilaos,  since  Negritos  are  spread 
all  over  the  Philippines  and  not  only  over  Northern 
Luzon. 

Buzeta  and  Bravo,  two  Spanish  authors,  say 
that  the  Ibilaos  lead  miserable  lifes  and  are  deficient 
of  even  the  smallest  luxuries. 

We  cannot  agree  with  them. 

All  the  Eancherias  which  we  visited  were  not 
in  such  bad  conditions  as  described.  The  Negritos 
are  much  poorer  in  their  ways  and  modes  of  living. 
In  Blunientritt's  essay,  the  Ibilaos  of  the  neighbor 
hood  of  the  Contra  Costa  are  called  Ilongotes.  We 
differ  also  in  this  respect,  referring  to  authentical 
sources  and  our  own  researches. 

From  Caraglan  in  a  distance  of  six  miles  we 
visited  a  Eancheria  high  up  in  the  mountains. 

The  expedition  was  accompanied  by  the  pa 
rochial  clergyman  and  the  sergeant  of  the  Guardia 


—  63  — 

Civil  from  Caraglan,  both  of  which  shared  in  the 
tedious  journey  in  the  most  amiable  way. 

We  passed  the  night  in  a  miserable  hut,  and 
started  early  next  morning,  in  order  to  accomplish 
our  intended  negotiations  with  the  Ibilaos. 

Very  little  money  was  required  —  as  the  Ibilaos 
preferred  the  exchange  of  the  articles  desired  by  us 
for  the  goods  we 'had  in  store  —  and  a  nice  collection 
of  ethnographical  objects  was  procured. 

In  this  Rancheria  we  found  beautiful,  classical 
figures,  of  imposing  physical  strength ;  some  others 
resembled  Chinese  and  Japanese,  which  circumstance 
leads  to  the  supposition  that  they  had  intermixed 
with  the  latter  when  their  habitations  were  on  the 
west  coast. 

We  returned  on  the  next  day  to  Caraglan 
fatigued  from  the  mountain  trip,  and  started  shortly 
afterwards  for  Aretao,  north-northwest  of  Caraglan. 
Our  march  led  over  the  Carabalho,  which  divides  the 
north  of  Luzon. 

From  a  mountain  pass,  about  3,500  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  very  steep,  we  had  beautiful 
views  of  the  mountain  forest  underneath  and  the 
distant  Contra  Costa  (Pacific  coast)  dawning  in  the 
east,  the  sea  not  visible. 

Our  first  station  was  made  in  Camerin  San 
Lazar,  on  this  side  of  the  Pass,  at  about  noon,  on 
account  of  the  inclemency  of  the  weather. 

The  station,  consisting  of  an  old  hut,  open  in. 
many  places,  afforded  a  bad  shelter. 


—  64  — 

The  rear  part  of  this  hut  served  as  a  parlor  and 
reception  room  for  my  companion  and  myself,  whilst 
the  front  part  was  densely  crowded  by  our  servants, 
the  Indians  and  the  military  escort  on  this  expedition 
from  Caraglan. 

A  few  miles  distant  from  the  hut,  or  blockhouse, 
the  steep  ascent  of  the  Carabalho  commences. 

This  road  affords  an  excellent  opportunity  for 
botanists  ;  vegetation  abounds  and  is  exceedingly 
rich. 

In  the  quartz  sand  we  found  diminutive  gold 
leaves,  and  concluded  that  these  mountains  must 
contain  gold  ore,  but  could  not  pay  much  attention 
to  this  discovery,  our  time  not  permitting  it. 

The  distance  from  Caraglan  to  Aretao,  the  first 
pueblo  on  the  other  side  of  the  Carabalho,  is  about 
28  miles,  and  the  expedition  reached  this  place  in 
two  days.  On  the  first  day  we  made  only  a  short 
march,  the  weather  was  too  uncertain,  but  on  the 
second  day,  though  we  had  to  walk  a  great  deal  over 
the  high  mountains  in  consequence  of  the  terrible 
condition  of  the  road,  we  succeeded  in  terminating 
our  tour. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  Carabalho  is  also  a 
shelter  for  travellers,  called  San  Claro.  This  building 
is  much  smaller  than  that  of  Camerin  San  Lazar,  but 
cleaner. 

It  was  late  in  the  night  when  we  arrived  at 
Aretao. 

The  place  is  romantically  situated,  and  was  the 


—  G5  — 

more  picturesque  as  it  showed  the  signs  of  the 
destruction  caused  by  the  last  earthquake. 

The  cloister  also  was  a  heap  of  ruins,  and  the 
clergyman  lived  in  a  small  Indian  house. 

We  could  not  find  any  other  place,  so  we  put 
up  at  the  spacious  school  house  of  the  village. 

The  day  following  our  arrival,  we  visited  the 
few  Europeans  of  the  place,  viz.:  the  Priest  and  the 
Officer  of  the  Gendarmeria.  The  former  is  a  vener 
able  gentleman  and  a  good  scholar. 

Here,  in  Aretao,  we  found  ourselves  in  the  region 
where  the  earthquakes  of  1881  had  caused  immense 
destructions  and  of  which  the  director  of  the  meteo 
rological  observatory  in  Manila,  Padre  Faura,  had 
given  us  some  accounts,  requesting  us  at  the  same 
time  to  investigate  the  accompanying  phenomena  of 
these  terrestrial  revolutions. 

According  to  the  statements  of  the  inhabitants, 
the  earthquakes  occurred  towards  the  end  of  the 
summer  of  1881,  in  Nueva  Yiscaya. 

This  region  had  seldom  been  visited  by  earth 
quakes,  and  for  that  reason  caused  a  terrible  panic 
among  the  peacable  populace,  more  so,  as  the  con 
cussion  of  the  earth  was  so  intense  and  not  in 
a  horizontal  direction,  like  in  other  parts  of  the 
Philippines,  but  vertically,  thus  giving  vent  to  the 
fear  of  the  outburst  of  a  new  volcano. 

This  fear  was  premature,  the  concussions  ceased 
at  the  beginning  of  the  rainy  season. 


—  66  — 

Two  and  a  half  leagues  from  Aretao  is  Dupax 
or  Dupaz. 

Here,  inmidst  a  remarkably  beautiful  moun 
tainous  country  we  halted,  intending  to  remain 
several  days,  plenty  of  work  awaiting  us  there.  In 
the  vicinity  of  Dupaz  are  a  great  number  of  Ban- 
cherias  of  the  Ibilaos,  of  which  four  were  visited  by 
us. 

The  cura,  or  catholic  priest,  of  Dupaz,  was  a 
venerable  old  gentleman,  doing  his  best  to  give  us 
all  possible  comfort,  and  though  65  years  old,  de 
veloped  great  energy,  combined  with  a  vivacious 
temperament  and  a  strong  power  of  will  and  action. 

Devoting  himself  to  the  duties  of  his  high  office 
as  Parochial  Priest  of  Nueva  Yiscaya,  he  nevertheless 
studied  natural  sciences,  etc. 

The  Indians  respected  the  pious,  old  gentleman 
reverently,  and  even  the  Gobernadorcillo  (the  mayor 
of  the  village)  trembled  when  the  stentorian  voice  of 
the  Cura  was  heard. 

All  these  good  qualities  of  the  Priest  were  of 
great  value  to  us.  With  all  our  efforts  and  offers  to 
induce  the  Indians  to  accompany  us  to  the  Ean- 
cherias,  we  did  not  succeed  until  the  good,  old  Priest 
interfered,  and  all  hesitation,  fears  and  resistances  on 
the  part  of  the  Indians  were  instantaneously 
banished. 

We  supplied  them  with  arms,  etc.,  and  started 
for  ^the  Rancherias  in  the  mountain  forests,  south 
and  southwest  of  Dupaz. 


—   67  — 

The  precaution  of  arming  the  Indians  is  an 
indispensable  necessity,  and  encounters  almost  cer 
tain,  even  if  well  armed.  The  Ibilaos  lay  in  ambush, 
and  one  is  never  safe  until  far  away  from  their 
abodes  and  arrows. 

The  first  Eancheria  visited  was  in  the  centre  of 
a  dense  forest,  and  the  houses  not  in  such  bad  con 
ditions  as  described  by  other  travellers.  The  tri 
bunal  or  town  hall,  a  small,  clean  building,  served  us 
as  lodging. 

Like  the  Indians,  they  have  a  captain  or  chief. 
This  captain  made  himself  very  useful  to  us,  acting 
jointly  with  our  interpreter  as  a  medium  between 
the  Ibilaos  and  us,  thus  enabling  us  to  add  greatly 
to  the  Ibilaos  dictionary,  which  I  began  in  Caraglan. 

Among  the  men  as  well  as  the  women  we  found 
beautiful  specimens.  The  women  are  prettier  than 
the  Indians  down  in  the  valley. 

Beside  the  inhabited  houses  we  found  store 
houses  for  the  crop,  built  in  Chinese  style.  These 
and  some  of  the  types  of  the  Ibilaos  with  their 
jewelries,  leave  no  doubt  that  there  must  have  been 
an  intimate  intercourse,  commercially  and  sociably, 
between  them  and  the  Chinese  in  former  times. 

Around  the  Eancherias  are  gardenlike  planta 
tions  with  tobacco,  corn,  Gabi,  (Caladium  esculentum) 
sugar  cane  and  rice. 

The  Ibilaos  bury  their  dead  not  far  from  their 
houses,  near  the  banks  of  rivers. 

The   tribunal  in  the   Eancheria  is  beautifully 


—  68  — 

situated  on  the  summit  of  a  pretty  steep  hill,  the 
>lower  part  of  the  latter  covered  by  the  few  houses. 

We  photographed  some  of  the  Ibilaos,  in  groups 
and  single,  in  different  positions,  also  houses  and 
landscapes  and  were  very  successful,  obtaining  quite 
a  number. 

Satisfied  with  the  results  of  our  expedition  in 
this  part  of  the  island,  we  left  Dupaz  for  Bombang. 
From  the  top  of  a  hill,  Bombang,  with  its  little 
church,  beautifully  situated,  affords  an  excellent 
view. 

The  monastery  in  this  place  was  destroyed  by 
the  earthquake,  and  we  took  shelter  in  the  tribunal 
— temporarily  erected — the  old  tribunal,  which  was 
a  massive  stone  building,  having  also  been  demol 
ished. 

We  came  to  the  conclusion  that  Bombang  and 
the  surrounding  country  was  the  centre  of  the  earth 
quakes  of  last  year. 

In  the  last  Rancheria  of  the  Ibilaos,  not  far 
from  Bombang,  we  found  nothing  of  interest. 

Already  before  Bombang  is  reached,  the  settle 
ments  of  the  Igorrotes  are  entered  into. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  Province  of  Nueva 
Yiscaya  have  to  be  divided  in  three  groups.  The 
largest  part  of  this  province,  to  the  east,  is  inhabited 
by  the  Ibilaos  or  Ilongotes,  both  names  being  used 
by  the  wild  tribes.  They  are  the  same  as  the  Ibilaos 
of  the  Carabalho  and  Dupaz.  The  Ilongotes  which 
we  had  seen  in  Carig,  are  like  the  former,  carried 


—  69  — 

the  same  weapons,  articles,  arrows,  lances  and  shield, 
and  had  also  their  front  teeth  broken  out. 

The  Ibilaos  which  settled  in  San  Nino,  near 
Bombang,  used  the  same  dialect  as  the  Carabalho 
Ibilaos.  With  the  collected  words  and  phrases  we 
were  able  to  make  ourselves  understood. 

Here  we  made  excavations  of  skulls  and  bones 
of  the  race  described,  and  I  was  enabled  to  send  a 
pretty  large  collection  of  such  to  the  famous  patho 
logical  anatomist,  Professor  DoctorVirchow  in  Berlin, 
for  anthropological  studies. 

The  number  of  Ibilaos  can  not  be  given,  since 
the  districts  along  the  eastern  coast  are  totally  un 
known. 

They  wear  the  long  hair  in  a  switch  around  the 
head  like  the  Chinese. 

The  types  of  the  faces  vary,  from  the  genuine, 
broad  face  of  the  Chinaman  with  the  protruding 
cheekbone  to  the  oval  form  of  the  Caucasian  race. 

They  have  no  idols,  but  are  as  superstitious  as 
the  Igorrotes  and  like  these  latter  consult  their 
oracles,  viz.:  the  condition  and  form  of  the  liver  and 
gall  bladder  of  the  sacrificed  chickens  and  swines. 

Padre  Villaverde,  whose  guests  we  were  when 
in  Ibung,  describes  their  mode  of  warfare. 

They  live  in  monogamy  and  the  housework  as 
well  as  the  work  in  the  fields  is  performed  by  the 
wives,  hunting  and  fishing  by  the  men. 

They  build  their  Rancherias  near  streams  and 
rivers,  on  mountain  slopes  or  hidden  abysses. 


—  70  - 

Every  Kancheria  has  an  Elder  who  settles  do 
mestic  troubles  and  in  time  of  war  is  the  leader. 

It  was  impossible  to  get  any  information  about 
their  law-business. 

The  houses  are  built  of  cana  (cane)  and  poles, 
covered  with  cogon  (grass). 

They  seem  to  change  their  abodes  frequently. 

The  plains  in  the  centre,  under  Spanish  su 
premacy,  respectively  in  Dupaz  and  Bombang,  are 
inhabited  by  Indians,  who,  in  anpearance,  etc.,  incline 
to  Ibilaos,  being  descendants  01  the  latter  by  inter 
marrying.  The  Indians  in  Aretao,  from  the  same 
causes,  intermarrying  with  Pangarinan  and  Agno 
Igorrotes,  resemble  Igorrotes,  and  those  in  Bayam- 
bong  and  Bagabac,  the  Gaddan  Igorrotes. 

The  Igorrotes  near  Bombang  immigrated  from  the 
mountains  of  the  west,  those  in  the  vicinity  of  Aretao 
from  the  Agno. 

The  Pangarinan  and  Agno  Igorrotes  have  a 
great  similarity  with  the  Igorrotes  of  Benguet,  the 
same  broad  faces  with  flat  noses,  and  are  just  as  filthy 
and  poor  as  they. 

The  Gaddanes  immigrated  in  the  past  century 
from  the  Saltan,  and  settled  all  over  the  plains  as  far 
as  to  the  mountains  of  Quiangan  and  Silipan. 

It  can  not  be  stated  whether  they  found  free 
land  and  settled  upon,  or  other  Ibilaos  occupying 
already  parts  of  the  country. 

The  third  group  consists  of  the  Igorrotes  of 
Quiangan,  Silipan  and  Mayoyaos. 


—  71  — 

They  cut  the  hair  round  the  head.  The  houses, 
especially  those  of  the  better  situated  Principales, 
are  built  of  wooden  boards,  with  neither  chimneys 
nor  windows,  and  contain  one  door  ;  they  are  elevated 
above  the  ground,  supported  by  poles,  and  at  night 
time  the  ladder  is  drawn  in  and  the  door  locked. 

These  are  very  wild  tribes. 

The  Eancherias  in  Quiangan,  numbering  53,  have 
a  population  of  13,000,  and  the  81  in  Silipan  over 
15,000. 

Near  Diadi,  where  19  Eancherias  exist,  the  pop 
ulation,  mostly  Mayoyaos,  numbers  2,376. 

The  Perugianes,  their  neighbors  to  the  north,  on 
both  sides  of  the  river  Magat,  up  to  the  Saltan  dis 
trict,  though  of  the  same  tribe,  are  their  bitterest 
enemies. 

According  to  what  the  Spanish  captain  of  the 
boat  related  to  us,  there  was  a  fight  between  the 
Perugianes  and  the  Mayoyaos,  in  which  14  were 
killed  and  buried  by  the  military,  but  were  exhumed 
by  the  Igorrotes  the  very  same  night. 

All  these  wild  tribes  are  independent  of  the 
Spaniards,  notwithstanding  the  Spanish  missions  and 
the  frequent  military  expeditions.  Bordering  to  the 
north,  in  the  province  of  Isabella  in  the  Saltan  dis 
trict,  from  the  river  Magat  in  the  northwest  to  the 
Partido  Itabes  and  the  river  Bangag,  live  Gaddanes. 

Blumentritt  mentions  their  neighbors  to  the 
left,  in  the  southwest  and  west  as  Mayoyaos,  and 
Ifugaos  in  the  south  and  southeast,  in  the  west  the 


—  72  — 

Itetapanes  and  on  the  right  side,  north  and  north 
west  the  Dadayags,  north  the  Bayabmanes  and 
Itaves,  and  Calauas  in  the  northwest. 

The  name  "  Ifugao  "  in  the  Gaddan  dialect,  as 
spoken  by  the  Indians  of  Nueva  Viscaya  in  the 
pueblos  Bayambong,  Solano  and  Bagabac,  collect 
ively,  means  wild  tribes,  the  same  as  "  Calinga  "  in 
the  Ibanac  and  Cagayan  is  a  cognomen  for  wild  and 
not  baptized  Igorrotes. 

In  all  my  wanderings,  I  never  heard  the  Daday 
ags  mentioned.  The  map  of  Luzon  points  to  the 
district  of  Pangul,  on  the  narrow  plains  of  the  rio 
Pangul  or  Pungal,  as  their  habitation  and  where  they 
cultivate  the  land  and  follow  the  fishing  business. 

Though  I  have  never  seen  them,  I  am  convinced 
that  they  are  the  same  as  those  in  the  Saltan. 

The  same  author  says  that  Igorrotes  live  only 
in  the  Benguet  district,  and  the  Itetapanes  up  to  the 
Cordillere  central,  as  the  neighbors  of  the  Busaco 
Igorrotes  from  Lepanto  and  Bontoc.  He  describes 
the  Itetapanes  as  resembling  the  Gaddanes,  and  un 
like  the  Igorrotes,  darker  and  smaller  in  size. 

My  observations  and  investigations  in  regard  to 
the  Igorrotes  lead  me  to  the  supposition,  that  all  the 
20  or  22  tribes,  so  strictly  distinguished  by  Blumen- 
tritt,  are  one  and  the  same  race,  and  that  the  names 
of  the  different  districts  or  localities,  and  the  many 
dialects — corruptions  of  one  original  language  — as 
well  as  frequent  exodus'  and  immigrations  have  unmis 
takably  added  to  this  ethnographical  error. 


—  73  — 

In  my  travels  through  the  provinces  of  Nueva 
Viscaya,  Isabella  and  Cagayan,  Spaniards  and 
Indians  knew  nothing  of  such  distinctions,  and  col 
lectively  called  all  the  unbaptized  inhabitants  of  the 
left  side  of  the  rio  Cagayan :  Igorrotes,  Calingas  or 
Ifugaos. 

How  far  the  Saltan  district  extends,  is  not  known. 
According  to  Spanish  statements,  it  comprises  all  the 
valleys  on  the  banks  of  the  rio  Saltan  and  its  tribu 
taries  and  the  northwestern  part  of  the  province  of 
Isabella,  9  miles  from  the  Cabezera. 

The  rio  Saltan,  crossing  Isabella  and  part  of 
Cagayan  parallel  to  the  rio  Cagayan,  and  variably 
called  rio  chico,  Bangag  or  Pinacpac,  must  therefore 
be  the  head  of  the  great  river. 

To  my  recollection,  the  river  discharging  near 
the  Eancheria  Pinacpo,  taking  its  course  in  the 
north  and  northwest  from  the  mountains,  had  been 
called  Saltan.  It  is  not  improbable  that  Gaddanes 
Eancherias  exist  south  of  Pinacpo  on  the  banks  of 
the  rio  chico,  but  I  know  positively,  that  people  from 
the  district  of  the  rio  Saltan  participated  in  the 
festivities  in  Calapo,  up  on  the  rio  Malhauec  or  Mal- 
uec,  and  that  they  were  pointed  out  to  me  as  relatives 
of  the  Calapos  and  Eipangs. 

The  types  of  these  Calapos  and  Eipangs  were  of 
the  ordinary  cut,  and  though  we  had  seen  entirely 
different  physiognomies  in  Pinacpo,  some  with  finely 
formed  noses,  we  still  classified  them  as  Gaddanes. 
They  wore  the  same  ornaments  as  the  Pinacpo  people, 


—  74  — 

liad  their  manners  and  customs,  their  houses 
were  built  of  the  same  material,  cana,  and  had  the 
same  rightangled  forms.  We  found  these  high-roofed 
houses  also  in  Balario  and  Aripa,  the  women  wearing 
armrings  and  bracelets  like  those  mentioned  above 
and  the  men  the  same  garments. 

As  the  district  of  the  Calauas,  better  Eancheria 
Calaua,  the  part  high  up  in  the  second  mountain 
parallel  where  the  rio  Maluec  takes  its  origin,  was 
pointed  out  to  me. 

On  the  map  of  Cuello,  contrary  to  others,  who 
called  it  Saltan,  the  partido  Itabes  is  found.  The 
Itabes  proper,  where  he  must  be  looked  for  now,  is 
undoubtedly  in  the  region  between  rio  Bangag  or 
chico  and  the  rio  Cagayan,  commencing  on  the  heights 
of  Solano  and  ending  at  Nariping.  This  is  the  most 
iamous  tobacco  district. 

Balani  and  Aripa  purvey  tobacco  to  the  Govern 
ment. 

The  Itabes  speaking  people  were  generally 
called  Calingas  and  styled  themselves  "  Poor  Calin- 
gas"  when  in  a  conversation  with  us,  making  com 
parisons. 

All  the  Eancherias  stream-upward  of  Maluec,  are 
enemies  of  the  Apagaos. 

Near  Maluec,  divided  by  a  mountain  range,  lies 
Apagaos  on  both  banks  of  the  rio  Apagos,  but 
Negritto  tribes  are  also  there  as  in  the  Maluec 
district.  The  Negrittos  of  Maluec  are  genuine  Ne- 
grittos  and  communicate  with  the  Igorrotes,  who 


—  75  — 

tolerate,   but   do  not   estimate  them.     I   never  saw 
Negritto  women  with  Igorrote  men,  or  vice  versa. 

The  Igorrotes  used  Negritto  arrows  and  arches} 
the  Negrittos,  instead  of  bolos,  old  worn  out  Aliguas 
of  the  Igorrotes. 

In  regard  to  the  principal  usages  of  all  the 
Igorrotes  from  Bombang  to  Aripa,  they  all  have  the 
same  customs  and  the  same  Anito  cultus,  the  latter 
not  so  much  a  distinct  religion  or  creed  as  an  ob 
servance  of  a  certain  pious  and  devoted  regard  for 
the  dead. 

The  ceremonies  at  funerals,  etc.,  are  all  alike. 
They  bury  their  dead  underneath  their  houses  and 
on  changing  their  abodes  take  them  along. 

The  sacrifices  on  behalf  of  the  sick,  the  con 
tracting  of  marriages  and  the  dissolution  of  such  are 
exhaustively  described  by  Padre  Villaverde  from  his 
experiences  in  Quiangan  and  Silipan. 

The  Benguet  Igorrotes,  too,  have  the  very  same 
observances. 

.All  these  little  tribes  have  no  state  constitutions, 
no  judiciaries  and  no  properly  elected  chieftains. 

In  which  way  or  manner  they  dispose  of  their 
troubles,  etc.,  I  could  not  ascertain.  To  all  proba 
bilities,  some  old  normal  usages  are  observed  to 
which  they  submit  and  thus  settle  matters. 

Vendetta  is  almost  a  standard  law  with  the 
Igorrotes. 

The  dead,  without  avenge,  does  not  find  any 
peace  in  the  grave  and  causes  the  family  great  trouble. 


—  76  — 

A  certain  class  of  these  wild  tribes,  prominent 
through  their  wealth,  a  kind  of  patricians,  are  very 
influential  and  domineering  over  the  poorer. 

They  loan  to  the  latter  victuals  or  other  things 
and  take  usurous  percentages. 

Not  able  to  pay  the  interests,  which,  in  a  short 
time  exceed  the  capital,  they  gradually  sink  into  a 
sort  of  slavery  and  have  to  work  for  their  oppressors 
in  the  fields  or  in  the  houses,  thereby  leading  a 
miserable  existence. 

The  mountain  Igorrotes  have  but  little  even  land 
on  which  to  sow  or  plant,  and  as  ploughs  are  un 
known,  a  piece  of  wood,  pointed  on  one  end,  is  used 
for  turning  the  soil  and  making  furrows. 

Carabaos  (buffaloes),  which  have  to  work  in  the 
fields,  etc.,  I  have  only  seen  in  Balan  and  Aripa, 
where  the  tribes  were  tamer  and  where  the  cultiva 
tion  of  tobacco  for  sale  was  carried  on,  elsewhere 
only  the  work  of  man.  In  Quiangan,  where  this 
primitive  way  of  working  the  fields  is  used,  rice  is. 
the  principal  and  most  important  crop.  The  nai^row 
or  broad  terraces,  constituting  the  fields,  are  built  up 
with  grassy  soil  and  stonedams,  a  very  weary  some  work. 

The  smallest  space  of  land  is  of  an  enormous 
value  in  this  part  of  the  island  and  is  inheritable. 

This  fact,  and  the  solid  wooden  houses,  lead  to 
the  belief  that  the  inhabitants  never  change  their 
habitations. 

The  climate  is  cooler  than  in  the  promontories, 
and  hence  the  massive  buildings. 


—  77  — 

In  the  Saltan,  the  houses  are  not  so  solid,  and 
from  the  finding  of  big  trees  and  logs,  half  charred* 
it  seems  to  be  certain  that  the  country  was  settled 
in  former  times. 

There  is  no  industry  amongst  the  Igorrotes, 
their  weapons,  domestic  utensils  and  jewelries  are 
exchanged  from  other  Rancherias.  From  the  valley 
of  Sapao,  up  in  Bontoc,  most  of  the  bolos  are  gotten 
from,  and  the  woven  clothes  from  Balani. 

The  so-called  blacksmith  shop  in  Pinacpo  was 
a  very  primitive  affair,  the  hammers  of  which  were 
loaned  to  another  Rancheria. 

The  art  of  forging  iron  is  kept  a  great  secret 
with  them. 

Olios  are  manufactured  of  clay  in  the  districts 
where  the  latter  is  found. 

It  was  in  Pinacpo  where  the  religious  festivity,  of 
which  I  made  mention  above,  took  place.  The  origin 
of  it  was  as  follows:  A  family  lost  a  child  by  death 
over  a  year  ago,  and  shortly  afterwards  the  pater 
f amilias  was  suffering  from  a  sore  leg.  This  incident 
leads  them  to  the  belief  that  the  dead  child  endures 
great  hardships  in  heaven,  amongst  others,  that  it  is 
badly,  if  ever,  nourished  and  therefore  plaguing  its 
parents.  To  pacify  the  spirits,  a  continued  sacri 
ficing  of  chicken,  pigs  and  other  animals  was  or 
dained,  and  for  21  days  this  was  done  under  the 
almost  uninterrupted  songs  of  both  sexes. 

It  was  just  toward  the  end  of  this  feast  when  we 
arrived  in  Pinacpo,  and  we  had  a  good  opportunity 


—  78  — 

to  witness  the  rites  and  ceremonies  of  the  Anito 
observances. 

The  wine  which  they  drank  on  this  occasion, 
was  made  from  the  juice  of  sugar  cane,  and  is  very 
intoxicating. 

Ropes  are  manufactured  here  from  ratan  and 
the  fibre  of  the  Anabu.  Basket  making  is  one  of  the 
principal  industries  of  the  Igorrotes,  and  the  Tagear- 
abos,  or  headclothes,  also  from  the  fibres  of  certain 
plants,  are  as  fine  as  linen. 

They  use  either  old  iron  or  steel  bars  from  the 
Indians,  the  forging  of  iron,  etc.,  is  unknown  to  them, 
even  their  wooden  shields  are  bought,  and  the  poorer 
class,  not  possessing  any,  have  to  lend  them  from 
the  richer  when  they  intend  to  go  hunting. 

The  Igorrote  never  leaves  his  house  without  his 
lance  and  shield,  the  constant  feud  between  the 
Rancherias  dictates  this  precaution. 

We  did  not  see  any  skulls  of  murdered  persons 
on  the  houses  of  the  Saltans  and  Itabes  as  elsewhere, 
but  so-called  victory  columns,  and  when  they  are 
erected  after  some  successful  encounters,  festivities, 
etc.,  follow  these  events. 

The  Igorrotes  do  not  bury  their  killed  enemies, 
believing,  that  if  they  remain  unburied  they  will 
annoy  and  molest  their  relations. 

Heroism  is  not  to  be  found  amongst  the  Igor- 
rotes;  they  seldom  fight  a  battle  in  the  open  field,  but 
cowardly  kill  the  enemy  from  some  hidden  spot. 

I  found  myself  in  Aringay,  in  the  province  of 


—  79  — 

San  Fernando,  with  but  one  servant,  unable  to  pro 
cure  a  few  more,  and  considering  the  voyage  to 
Benguet  with  this  insufficient  protection  rather 
unsafe,  I  intended  to  return  to  Manila,  to  recuperate 
from  the  hardships  to  which  I  was  subjected  during 
a  four  months  stay  in  this  forlorn  corner  of  the  Globe. 

Satisfied  that^the  results  of  this  expedition,  viz : 
the  commission  of  Professor  Bastian,  Doctor  Jagor 
and  the  request  of  the  Jesuit  Father  Faura  would 
meet  with  due  acknowledgement  and  appreciation  on 
the  part  of  those  gentlemen,  I  assorted  my  collection 
of  ethnographical,  anthropological,  botanical  and 
geological  curiosos  and  parted  from  my  companion, 
the  indefatigable  Mr.  Au,  who  had  shared  in  all  de 
privations  so  faithfully. 

It  is  but  just  to  state  that  the  success  with  which 
my  travels  in  Luzon  were  crowned,  is  mostly  due  to 
the  generosity  and  kindness  of  the  different  catholic 
Curas,  the  Commandants  of  the  Guardia  Civil,  the 
Gobernadorcillos,  and  especially  to  the  druggist 
Grupe  in  Manila,  by  whom  I  was  recommended  to 
the  above  mentioned,  and  I  here  express  my  heart 
felt  thanks  to  them. 

Without  exaggerating,  I  can  say  that  the  four 
months  travel  in  the  Philippines  were  of  a  far  more 
wearysome  nature  than  my  two  years  voyages  in  the 
Himalayas,  Ceylon  and  Java. 

The  Philippines  belong  to  the  Malaysia,  which 
latter  comprises  the  islands  and  island  groups  lying 
just  off  the  coast  of  southeastern  Asia,  and  containing 


—  80  — 

the  large  islands  of  Luzon,  Mindanao,  Celebes,  Java, 
Sumatra  and  Borneo,  and  is  a  division  of  Oceania. 

The  export  from  the  Philippines  chiefly  consists 
of  coffee,  cordage,  hemp,  indigo,  rice,  liquid  indigo, 
sugar  and  sapan  wood,  the  proceeds  of  which  were 
23  millions  of  dollars  in  1882. 

The^irea  of  both  Luzon  and  Mindanao,  whose 
capital  Je  pangan  has  10,000  inhabitants,  contains 
about  97,000  square  miles,  the  population  5,190,000. 
Between  the  Philippines  and  100°  west  longitude,  are 
situated  the  islands  and  groups  of  Polynesia. 

Eeturned  to  Manila,  I  forwarded  ethnographical 
and  other  collected  curiosities  to  Europe,  and  re 
ported  to  Father  Faura  in  a  special,  herein  not  con 
tained,  extract  of  my  observations  and  experiences  in 
the  region  of  the  earthquakes  of  1881,  and  after  a 
brief  stay  left  Manila  for  Shanghai  by  way  of  Hong- 
Kong  on  an  English  steamer  of  the  Peninsula  Oriental 
line. 


my  return  to  Manila,!  reported  to  the 
European  scientists  and  to  several  Spanish  geo 
graphical  authors  in  different  parts  of  the  Philippine 
Islands  and  took  passage  for  Hong-Kong,  respectively 
Shanghai,  on  an  English  steamer. 

Arrived  in  Shanghai,  the  sad  news  of  the  death  of 
my  dear,  beloved  father  had  reached  me,  and  thus  I 
was  prevented  to  continue  my  intended  journey  to 
Peckin  or  Peking. 

From  Hong-Kong  to  Shanghai,  the  Formosa  Canal 
has  to  be  crossed  and  the  Island  of  Formosa  passed. 

Wanchau,  Ningpo  and  other  places  on  the  shores 
offer  nothing  noteworthy. 

Here  is  the  famous  monastery  "Sicawei"  and  a 
meteorological  observatory. 

A  railroad,  built  in  1876  for  the  purpose  of  com 
municating  the  two  cities  Shanghai  and  Woosung,  a 
distance  of  20  miles,  was  bought  by  the  Government 
the  year  following  and  closed. 

On  account  of  my  short  stay  in  China,  I  made  all 
possible  efforts  to  collect  official  Statistics  and  Data 
regarding  this  Empire,  and  was  partially  successful. 

Area:  4,419,150  square  miles,  with  371,180,000 
population,  consequently  the  most  populated  country  in 
the  world. 


—  82  — 

The  state  religion,  without  any  outward  ceremonies, 
has  only  a  few  symbolic  rites  on  New  Year's  day,  and 
consists  in  the  study  of  the  doctrines  of  Confucius  and 
Lao-tse. 

The  plurality  of  the  people  are  Buddhists  and 
public  education  almost  universal,  but  few  adults  un 
able  to  read  and  write. 

It  is  asserted  that  China  has  had  newspapers  over 
a  thousand  years  ago. 

23  Cities  in  the  Chinese  Empire  have  a  population 
of  over  100,000  and  66  with  over  50,000  souls. 

The  chief  exports  are  tea  and  silk.  The  coal  mines 
of  China  rank  amongst  the  greatest  in  the  world,  over 
3  millions  of  tons  are  annually  produced  5  the  mines  in 
Kai-ping  alone  producing  600  tons  daily. 

It  was  absolutely  impossible  for  me  to  get  any 
correct  information  about  the  Chinese  u  Flora/'  as  there 
are  no  reliable  sources  to  be  found. 

Procuring  passage  on  a  Japanese  steamer  of  the 
Mitsi-Pitsi  line,  commanded  by  an  American  captain, 
we  sailed  first  on  the  Leviathan  of  Rivers,  the  Yang- 
tse-kiang,  whose  length  is  3,320  miles  and  the  basin  of 
which  comprises  an  area  of  950,000  square  miles,  and 
afterwards  on  the  China  Sea,  when  we  reached  Naga 
saki,  in  whose  neighborhood  is  Decima. 

From  Nagasaki  I  visited  the  inland  lakes  of  Japan. 
The  beauty  of  these  lakes  with  their  surrounding 
sceneries,  and  the  rich  vegetation  is  almost  indescribable. 

Hiogo,  the  seaport  of  Osaka,  an  important  city  and 
the  commercial  centre  of  Japan,  is  situated  on  a 


—  83  — 

gradually  ascending  wooded  chain  of  hills,  attaining  an 
altitude  of  2,000'  and  has  20,000  inhabitants. 

Several  fresh  water  rivers  discharge  in  the  Bay  of 
Hiogo. 

Of  the  national  beverage  of  the  Japanese,  the  Sake 
or  ricebeer,  there  are  numerous  breweries  in  this  city. 
This  Sake,  to  comply  with  the  taste  of  the  Japanese 
must  have  the  following  five  qualities:  bitter,  sweet, 
sour,  sharp  and  astringent,  and  the  odor  of  fusel-oil. 

It  contains  from  11  to  17  per  cent,  alcohol.  Ac 
cording  to  analyzations  by  European  chemists,  the  Sake 
is  detrimental  to  health,  and  still,  of  the  whole  rice  crop 
in  Japan,  9  per  cent,  are  used  for  manufacturing  this 
national  draught. 

I  was  assured  here,  that  the  brewing  of  Sake  in 
Japan,  dates  back  as  far  as  2600  years,  and  that  Sake 
brewers  from  China  had  arrived  in  Japan  400  A.  C.  to 
introduce  the  improved  chinese  Sake  breweries. 

Certain  rules  of  etiquette  regulate  the  quantities  of 
Sake  to  be  drunk  on  different  occasions  and  the  revenues 
of  both,  the  Government  and  the  Brewers,  are  immense. 
Sake  is  brewed  between  the  months  of  November  and 
March,  as  it  requires  a  low  degree  of  temperature. 

The  road  from  Hiogo  to  Osaka,  a  distance  of  30 
miles,  leads  through  valleys,  unbridged  rivers  and 
mountain  ridges,  with  eggplants,  rice,  cotton  and  beans 
planted  on  the  river  shores. 

Azaleas  grow  here  abundantly  in  a  wild  state. 

At  a  distance  of  about  one  mile  from  Osaka,  the 
palace,  formerly  inhabited  by  the  Tycoon,  is  visible; 


—  84  — 

it  is  romantically  situated  on  the  summit  of  a  hill, 
crowned  with  a  forest. 

Osaka,  on  the  shores  of  a  great  river  and  many 
canals  has  an  important  commerce,  several  noteworthy 
temples  and  a  theatre. 

Not  far  from  Osaka,  I  visited  the  famous  temple  of 
Buddha,  in  which  the  colossal  bronze  figure  of  Buddha 
exists. 

Hiogo  was  my  starting  point  for  the  frequent  ex 
cursions  to  the  interior  of  Japan,  having  been  furnished 
with  passports  from  the  Government  to  Kioto  or  Miako. 

On  this  route  Osaka  is  also  reached.  On  a  visit  to 
the  Biwa  lake — a  nice  sheet  of  water — I  was  surprised 
to  find  in  its  vicinity  an  extensive  monastery  of  Buddha 
of  which  I  had  known  nothing. 

Returned  to  Hiogo,  another  excursion  was  made  to 
the  Suonada  lake,  separating  the  two  islands  of  Kiusin 
and  Sikopf  from  the  larger  island  of  Nipon  (the  latter, 
the  main-land  and  the  largest  of  the  groups  of  islands 
and  therefore  called  Dai-Nipon  or  Great  Nipon). 

This  so-called  Inland  lake  extends  to  the  bay  of 
Osaka,  has  a  length  of  about  200  miles  and  contains 
numerous  rocks  and  small  islands. 

Simonoseki,  at  the  head  of  Suonada  lake  has  10,000 
inhabitants,  some  commerce,  and  is  surrounded  by  high 
hills.  In  one  of  the  temples  of  this  place,  a  cartoon, 
representing  a  sea  battle,  two  swords  and  other  relics  of 
Taiko-sama,  the  great  soldier  and  founder  of  a  small 
dynasty  of  but  a  short  duration,  who  lived  at  about  the 
year  1582,  are  shown. 


—  85  — 

Starting  for  the  gold  mines  in  the  northwest  and 
afterwards  by  steamer  to  Yokohama,  I  boarded  a  train 
for  Tokio  (formerly  known  as  Yeddo  or  Jedo),  one  of 
the  two  capitals. 

The  population  of  Tokio  numbers  823,557. 

One  of  the  most  important  and  famous  temples  in 
Tokio  is  the  Aoaxa?  situated  in  the  busiest  portion  of 
the  city  j  it  is  also  called  the  temple  of  Quanona. 

The  god  Quanon,  with  his  36  arms  and  100 
hands,  is  very  popular  and  thousands  of  people  are 
constantly  seen  to  crowd  in  his  neighborhood. 

The  pilgrimages  to  Isje,  where  the  33  chief  Quan- 
quon  temples  exist,  are  the  largest,  and  those  to  the 
Buddhistic  temples  of  Lin  and  Cami  also  of  large  pro 
portions. 

The  state  religion  in  Japan  is  Sinto,  or  Shinto,  and 
it  is  a  remarkable  feature  that  both,  the  orthodox  dis 
ciples  of  Sinto  as  well  as  the  Buddhists,  visit  the  Quan- 
quon  temples. 

Of  all  the  temples,  however,  the  temple  of  Saif  in 
Sicousin,  where  Teentin  died,  is  the  pre-eminent. 

In  a  northerly  direction  from  here,  I  visited  the 
famous  temple  of  Nikko,  in  whose  neighborhood  is  a 
volcanic  chain  of  mountains  where  frequent  eruptions 
take  place. 

An  excursion  to  the  Hakone  mountains,  the  most 
beautiful  in  Japan,  and  where  the  extinct  volcano 
"Fussiyama,"  a  sombre,  ragged  peak,  impresses  one 
most  unfavorably,  is  well  repaying  the  trouble. 

To-Kaido?  the  main  road,  leads  from  E.  to  W., 


—  86  — 

from  Tokio,  one  of  the  capitals,  to  Kioto  the 
other. 

It  is  surprising  to  find  an  almost  tropical  vegetation 
in  Japan,  considering  the  northern  latitude  of  this 
country,  almost  everywhere  Palmtrees,  Bamboo, 
Cryptomeria  Japonica,  Glycinse  cinensis  or  Wistaria, 
Thujopsis  dolabrata,  Retinispora,  the  family  of  the  Ro- 
saceas  and  Coniferes  to  be  found. 

The  cultivation  of  dwarf-trees  and  plants,  especially 
of  the  Padocarpus,  is  carried  on  in  a  grand  and  unsur 
passed  style  and  the  export  of  Coniferes  is  very  impor 
tant. 

The  shooting  or  killing  of  birds  within  a  circuit  of 
10  Ri,  or  30  English  miles  from  the  residence  of  the 
Mikado,  is  strictly  prohibited. 

Japan,  or  Zipangu,  the  sunrise  kingdom,  is  an  em 
pire  composed  of  islands  lying  east  of  Asia,  and  is  sup 
posed  to  have  been  founded  660  A.  C.  Area,  148,- 
456  square  miles.  Population,  36,700,118.  The  pop 
ulation  is  divided  into  classes,  as  follows:  Imperial 
family,  39  5  Kwazokii,  or  nobles,  3,204;  Shizoku,  or 
knights,  1,931,825;  common  people,  34,765,051. 

The  government  is  an  absolute  monarchy.  The 
title  of  the  sovereign  is  Supreme  Lord,  or  Emperor 
(Mikado).  Agriculture  is  followed  to  a  great  extent. 
The  chief  agricultural  products  are  rice,  wheat  and 
beans.  The  principal  manufactures  are  silk  and  cotton 
goods,  Japanned  ware,  porcelain  and  bronze.  The 
value  of  the  exports,  1883,  was  $35,609,000;  of  im 
ports,  $28,548,000. 


—  87  — 

A  law  went  into  effect  in  1874,  by  which  the  gov 
ernment  gives  nine  bushels  of  rice  annually  to  each 
person  over  seventy  or  under  fifteen  years  of  age  un 
able  to  work,  and  to  foundlings  until  they  reach  the  age 
of  thirteen. 

Latest  reports  place  the  number  of  paupers  at  10,- 
050,  and  expenditures  at  $88,975. 

School  attendance  is  compulsory.  There  are  30,- 
275  schools  in  the  empire,  of  which  71  are  normal,  98 
are  technical,  and  2  are  universities  5  also,  a  military 
college  and  military  school,  with  1,200  students. 
Latest  reports  give  82,213  teachers  and  2,703,343  pu 
pils.  School  age  from  6  to  14.  Public  libraries,  21. 
Shintoism  is  the  ancient  religious  faith ;  but  Buddhism 
is  the  religion  of  nearly  all  the  common  people.  The 
first  railroad  in  the  empire  was  opened  June,  1875;  it 
extended  from  Hiogo  to  Osaka,  25  miles.  At  the  end  of 
June,  1884,  there  were  236  miles  of  railway  in  the  empire. 

After  a  brief  stay  in  Yokohama,  I  took  passage  on 
a  steamer  of  the  English  Oriental  and  Occidental 
Steamship  Company  and  started  for  another  division  ot 
the  globe,  "  America." 

After  a  two  weeks  very  agreeable  sea  voyage  I  ar 
rived  in  the  San  Francisco  bay  on  the  evening  of  the 
9th  of  November. 

Already  from  a  distance,  San  Francisco,  amphithe- 
atrically  situated  on  the  inner  slope  of  a  peninsula  and 
on  and  at  the  base  of  high  hills,  is  visible. 

San  Francisco,  the  chief  city  of  California  and  com 
mercial  metropolis  of  the  Pacific  coast,  is  separated 


—  88  — 

from  the  ocean  by  the  above  mentioned  peninsula, 
which  is  30  miles  long  and  6  miles  across  the  city,  at 
the  northern  end  of  which  San  Francisco  stands,  in  lat. 
37°  46'  N.  and  long.  122°  46'  W. 

The  greater  part  of  the  peninsula  is  hilly.  In  the 
K  E.  corner  of  the  city  is  Telegraph  Hill,  294  ft.  high  ; 
in  the  S.  E.  corner  Rincon  Hill,  120  ft.  high  5  and  on 
the  W.  side  Russian  Hill,  360  ft.  high.  The  densely 
populated  quarters  are  in  the  amphitheatre  formed  by 
the  three  hills. 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  the  streets  are  broad 
and  there  are  many  handsome  buildings. 

The  history  of  San  Francisco  is  interesting  on 
account  of  the  rapid  growth  of  the  place.  The  first 
house  was  built  in  1835,  when  the  village  was  called 
Yerba  Buena  (Spanish  "good  herb7'),  so-named  from 
a  medicinal  plant  growing  in  abundance  in  the  vicinity. 
In  1847  this  was  changed  to  San  Francisco,  and  in 
1848,  the  year  that  gold  was  first  discovered  in  Cali 
fornia  by  the  white  settlers,  the  population  had  increased 
to  1,000.  The  influx  from  the  East  then  commenced, 
and  in  December,  1850,  the  population  was  about 
25,000.  According  to  the  census  of  1880  it  amounted 
to  233,956,  and  it  is  now  estimated  as  containing  more 
than  300,000  population.  The  city  was  incorporated 
in  1850,  and  in  1851  and  1856,  in  consequence  of  bad 
municipal  government  and  corrupt  administration  of 
the  criminal  laws,  the  people  organized  Vigilance  Com 
mittees,  and  summarily  executed  several  criminals  and 
banished  others. 


This  rough  but  wholesome  discipline  had  its  effect, 
and  the  city  is  now  one  of  the  most  orderly  in  the 
country. 

The  commerce  of  San  Francisco  is  very  large,  the 
chief  articles  of  export  being  the  precious  metals, 
breadstuffs,  wines,  wool  and  fruits  ;  and  of  import, 
lumber,  coal,  coffee,  tea,  rice  and  sugar. 

The  manufactures  are  important,  including  woolen 
and  silk  mills,  and  manufactories  of  watches,  carriages, 
boots,  furniture,  candles,  acids,  wire-work,  castings  of 
iron  and  brass  and  silver  ware. 

The  City  Hall,  in  process  of  erection,  will  be  a  fine 
structure. 

The  U.  S.  Branch  Mint  contains  the  finest  machin 
ery,  to  be  believed  unapprochable  in  perfection  and 
efficiency. 

The  Merchants'  Exchange  is  one  of  the  most  costly 
and  spacious  buildings  in  the  city.  The  Palace  Hotel 
is  a  vast  and  ornate  building,  9  stories  high,  and 
erected  at  a  cost  of  $3,250,000. 

Another  palatial  structure  is  the  Baldwin  Hotel. 
The  Mercantile  Library  contains  50,000  volumes. 

The  finest  and  largest  church  edifice  on  the  Pacific 
coast  is  that  of  St.  Ignatius  Church  and  College  (Roman 
Catholic)  j  the  finest  interior  is  that  of  St.  Patrick's 
(Roman  Catholic).  The  First  Unitarian  and  Trinity 
churches  are  remarkably  fine  architectures,  and  the 
Jewish  Synagogue  of  Emanu-El  is  a  large,  elegant  and 
substantial  structure,  with  two  lofty  towers  and  a  richly 
decorated  interior. 


—  90  — 

The  University  of  California,  near  San  Francisco, 
is  the  most  important  educational  institution.  The  city 
also  contains  two  Medical  Colleges,  an  excellent  School 
of  Design,  and  three  Academies. 

Among  the  charitable  institutions,  the  principal  are 
the  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital,  St.  Mary's  Roman  Catholic, 
the  City  New  Hospital,  the  State  Woman's  Hospital, 
the  Protestant  Orphan  Asylum,  the  Almshouse,  the 
Roman  Catholic  Orphan  Asylum,  the  State  Asylum  for 
the  Deaf,  Dumb  and  Blind,  near  Oakland,  and  the 
Alameda  Park  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  on  the  Encinal, 
Alameda. 

The  Golden  Gate  Park  comprises  1,043  acres.  One 
of  the  features  of  the  Park  is  a  magnificent  conserva 
tory,  in  which,  at  the  proper  season,  the  only  specimen 
of  the  Victoria  Regia  Lily  in  America  can  be  seen;  the 
building  is  modeled  after  the  Royal  Conservatories  of 
Kew,  England. 

Laurel  Hill  Cemetry  is  a  very  beautiful  burial-ground, 
with  many  fine  monuments.  In  the  vicinity  is  a  sin 
gular,  conically-shaped  mountain,  which  rises  up 
singly  and  alone  to  a  considerable  height  above  the 
surrounding  tolerably  level  country.  The  great  feature 
is  Lone  Mountain,  with  its  unrivalled  outlook,  embrac 
ing  views  of  the  city,  bay,  ocean,  Mount  Diablo  and 
the  Coast  Range. 

There  are  about  40,000  Chinese  in  San  Francisco, 
and  the  u  Chinese  Quarter"  is  worth  a  visit,  especially 
the  two  theatres,  in  which  the  entire  audience,  even 
the  women,  who  have  a  compartment  to  themselves, 


—  91  — 

are  found  either  smoking  tobacco  or  opium,  whilst  the 
performance  is  carried  on  amidst  the  beating  of  gongs, 
the  clashing  of  cymbals  and  other  hideous  kinds  of 
noise.  A  visit  to  the  opium  cellars  and  gambling 
houses,  and  to  the  temples — open  at  all  times — and  in 
which  joss-sticks  smoke  in  front  of  the  favorite  Gods, 
will  repay  the  curious  traveler. 

Of  great  interest  is  the  Cliff  House,  in  the  vicinity 
of  San  Francisco,  a  low  rambling  building,  set  on  the 
edge  of  some  cliffs  rising  sharply  from  the  ocean.  The 
Seal  Kock,  close  by,  where  the  seals  are  basking  in 
the  sun  or  wriggle  over  the  rocks,  barking  so  noisily, 
is  a  beautiful  sight. 

Northward  lies  the  Golden  Gate,  the  beautiful 
entrance  to  San  Francisco  Bay.  In  front  is  the  vast 
Pacific  Ocean,  on  whose  distant  horizon,  on  a  clear  day, 
the  peaks  of  the  Farallone  Islands  are  visible. 

In  the  Southwestern  part  of  the  city  is  the  old  mis 
sion  of  San  Francisco,  Mission  Dolores,  it  is  an  adobe 
building  of  the  old  Spanish  style,  built  in  1778. 

My  next  excursion  was  to  the  Yosemite  Valley,  and 
en  route  to  it,  to  the  Mariposa  Grove  of  Big  Trees. 

The  Grove  is  part  of  a  grant  made  by  Congress  to 
be  set  apart  for  u public  use,  resort  and  recreation"  for 
ever.  The  area  covered  by  the  grant  is  2  miles  square 
and  embraces  2  distinct  groves  which  are  about  %  mile 
apart.  The  Upper  Grove  contains  365  trees,  of  which 
154  are  over  15  ft.  in  diameter.  The  largest  tree  in 
the  Grove  is  the  Grissly  Giant  (Lower  Grove)  which  is 
still  94  ft.  in  circumference  and  31  ft.  in  diameter, 


—  92  — 

though  much  decreased  by  burning.  The  first  branch 
is  nearly  200  ft.  from  the  ground,  and  is  6  ft.  in  dia 
meter.  The  remains  of  a  prostrate  tree,  now  nearly 
consumed  by  fire,  indicates  that  it  must  have  reached 
a  diameter  of  about  40  ft.  and  a  height  of  400  ft.  The 
trunk  is  hollow,  and  will  admit  the  passage  of  3  horse 
men  riding  abreast.  There  are  about  125  trees  over 
40  ft.  in  circumference. 

The  Yosemite  Valley  is  situated  on  the  Merced 
River  in  the  Southern  portion  of  the  county  of  Mariposa, 
about  220  miles  from  San  Francisco.  It  is  on  the 
Western  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  midway  between 
its  E.  and  W.  base.  The  valley  is  a  nearly  level  area, 
about  6  miles  in  length  and  from  a  half  to  a  mile  in 
width,  and  almost  a  mile  in  perpendicular  depth  below 
the  general  level  of  the  adjacent  region,  and  inclosed 
in  frowning  granite  walls  rising  with  almost  unbroken 
and  perpendicular  faces  to  the  dizzy  height  of  from 
3000  to  6000  ft. 

From  the  brow  of  the  precipices  in  several  places 
spring  streams  of  water,  forming  cataracts  of  a  beauty 
and  magnificence  surpassing  anything  known  in  moun 
tain  scenery.  The  valley  is  almost  one  vast  flower 
garden,  plants,  shrubs  and  flowers  of  every  hue  cover 
the  ground  like  a  carpet,  the  eye  is  dazzled  by  the 
brilliancy  of  the  color,  and  the  air  is  heavy  with  the 
fragrance  of  myriads  of  blossoms.  On  every  side  are 
seen  the  beautiful  and  many  colored  Manzanita  and 
Madrone  and  other  beautiful  trees. 

The  Yosemite  was  discovered  in  the  Spring  of  1851 


93 
-  yd  - 

by  a  party  under  the  command  of  Captain  Boling  in 
pursuit  of  a  band  of  predatory  Indians,  who  made  it 
their  stronghold,  considering  it  inaccessible  to  the 
whites.  By  an  act  of  Congress  passed  in  1864,  the 
Yosemite  Valley  and  the  Mariposa  grove  of  Big  Trees 
were  granted  to  the  State  of  California  upon  the  ex 
press  condition  that  they  shall  be  kept  "for  public  use, 
resort  and  recreation,  inaleniable  for  all  time.'7 

The  most  striking  feature  of  the  valley  scenery  is 
"El  Capitan,"  on  account  of  its  isolation,  its  breadth, 
its  perpendicular  sides  and  its  prominence  as  it  projects 
like  a  great  rock  promontory  into  the  valley. 

On  the  opposite  side  is  the  "Bridal  Veil  Fall," 
where  the  creek  of  the  same  name  leaps  over  a  cliff 
900  ft.  high  into  the  valley  below. 

The  "Sentinel  Rock,"  3043  ft.  high,  is  one  of  the 
grandest  masses  of  rock  in  the  Yosemite. 

The  Yosemite  Falls  are  regarded  as  the  most  won 
derful  feature  of  the  scenery.  The  Fall  has  a  total 
height  of  2600  ft.  which  is  not  all  perpendicular;  there 
is  first  a  vertical  leap  of  1500  ft.,  then  a  series  of  cas 
cades  down  a  descent  equal  to  626  ft.  perpendicular, 
and  then  a  final  plunge  of  400  ft.  to  the  rocks  at  the 
baso  of  the  precipice.  No  falls  in  the  known  world  can 
be  compared  with  these  in  height  and  romantic  grand 
eur. 

The  Half  Dome  is  a  crest  of  granite  rising  to  the 
height  of  4737  ft.  above  the  valley. 

The  Mirror  Lake,  Vernon  Fall  and  the  Cap  of 
Liberty  are  worth  visiting,  but  the  Nevada  Fall  is  in 


—  94  — 

every  respect  one  of  the  grandest  water  falls  in  the 
world,  in  regard  to  the  stupendous  scenery  by  which  it 
is  surrounded,  its  vertical  height  and  the  purity  and 
volume  of  the  river  which  it  forms. 

It  is  almost  impossible  to  describe  all  the  wonders  of 
this  blessed  spot  and  I  will  therefore  proceed  on  my 
journey  to  Santa  Cruz,  one  of  the  two  famous  Summer 
resorts  of  California."  This  city  is  attractively  situated 
on  the  N.  side  of  Monterey  Bay,  and  nearby  are  Aptos 
and  Soquel,  popular  sea-side  resorts.  Opposite  Santa 
Cruz,  at  the  S.  extremity  of  the  Bay,  is  the  historic 
city  of  Monterey.  Until  1847  this  town  was  the  seat 
of  government  and  principal  port  on  the  California 
coast 5  but  since  the  rise  of  San  Francisco  its  commerce 
and  business  have  dwindled  away,  and  it  is  now  one  of 
the  quietest  places  in  the  State.  As  a  health-resort  it 
has  begun  to  attract  attention  within  the  last  4  or  5 
years. 

In  the  heart  of  the  Santa  Clara  Valley — which  lies 
between  the  coast  and  Santa  Cruz  Mountains,  and  is 
watered  by  the  Coyote  and  Guadalupe  rivers  and  by 
artesian  wells,  said  to  be  the  most  fertile  in  the  world — 
is  the  city  of  San  Jose,  with  a  population  of  13,000. 
The  main  portion  of  the  city  occupies  a  gently  rising 
plateau  between  the  Coyote  and  Guadalupe  Rivers,  1-J- 
miles  apart.  The  most  noteworthy  features  are:  the 
Lick  Observatory,  in  course  of  erection  on  the  summit 
of  Mount  Hamilton,  4,443  feet  high,  12  miles  from  the 
city  and  the  Court  House,  the  City  Hall,  the  State 
Normal  School  arid  the  Roman  Catholic  College  of 


—  95  — 

Notre  Dame.  The  famous  Almaden  Quicksilver  Mines 
are  about  14  miles  from  San  Jose. 

Santa  Clara  is  a  picturesque  village  with  about 
4,000  inhabitants  and  3  miles  from  the  former  city. 

Pacific  Congress  Springs  with  medicinal  waters,  re 
commended  to  sufferers  with  rheumatism,  and  Napa 
City,  46  miles  from  San  Francisco,  a  thrifty  place  of 
about  4,000  inhabitants,  with  many  beautiful  drives  in 
the  vicinity,  especially  those  to  Santa  liosa  and  the 
famous  wine  cellars  of  Sonoma,  are  romantically 
situated. 

Calistoga,  a  pretty  town  in  a  valley,  encircled  by 
forest-clad  hills  and  mountains,  has  numerous  mineral 
springs  in  the  vicinity. 

About  5  miles  S.  E.  of  Calistoga  is  the  "Petrified 
Forest,"  one  of  the  great  natural  wonders  of  California. 
Portions  of  nearly  100  distinct  trees  of  great  size, 
scattered  over  a  tract  of  3  or  4  miles  in  extent,  have 
been  found,  the  largest  being  1 1  ft.  in  diameter  at  the 
base  and  60  ft.  long.  They  are  supposed  to  have  been 
silicified  by  an  eruption  of  the  neighboring  Mount 
St.  Helena,  which  discharged  hot  alkaline  waters  con 
taining  silica  in  solution. 

The  Geyser  Spring,  situated  in  Sonoma  County  in 
a  lateral  gorge  of  the  Napa  Valley,  called  the  DeviFs 
Canon  is  near  the  Pluton  River. 

The  approaches  to  the  Springs  are  very  impressive, 
the  scenery  being  finer,  according  to  Bayard  Taylor, 
than  anything  in  the  Lower  Alps.  A  multitude  of 
springs  gush  out  at  the  base  of  the  rocks.  Hot  and 


—  96  — 

cold  springs,  boiling  springs  and  quiet  springs  lie  within 
a  few  feet  of  each  other. 

They  differ  also  in  color,  smell  and  taste.  Some  are 
clear  and  transparent,  others  white,  yellow  or  red  with 
ochre,  while  still  others  are  of  an  inky  blackness. 

Some  are  sulphurous  and  fetid  in  odor,  and  some 
are  charged  with  alum  and  salt.  The  surface  of  the 
ground  is  too  hot  to  walk  upon  with  thin  shoes,  and  is 
covered  with  the  minerals  deposited  by  the  waters, 
among  which  are  sulphur,  sulphate  of  magnesia, 
sulphate  of  aluminum  and  various  salts  of  iron .  They  are 
recommended  in  rheumatism,  gout  and  in  skin  diseases. 

Among  the  health  resorts  of  southern  California, 
the  most  frequented  is  Santa  Barbara,  lying  in  a 
sheltered  nook  of  the  shore  of  the  Pacific  with  an 
extremely  equable  and  mild  climate,  the  mean  temper 
ature  in  summer  being  69,  58°  and  in  winter  53,  33°. 

The  society  of  the  place  is  exceptionally  pleasant 
and  refined.  The  town,  with  about  6,000  inhabitants, 
contains  a  Spanish  quarter  and  a  Chinese  quarter,  and 
the  new  American  part  of  the  town,  especially  the 
suburbs  are  handsomely  built  and  tastefully  adorned. 
Every  plot  of  ground,  no  matter  how  small,  has  its  row 
of  orange  trees,  its  exotics,  and  its  bed  of  native 
perennials.  Eoses  abound  summer  and  winter.  The 
Verbena  beds  are  cut  down  like  grass  thrice  yearly, 
and  spring  up  again  stronger  than  ever.  Vines  of 
every  sort  flourish  luxuriantly,  Heliotrope  climbs  20  ft. 
high,  Cacti  of  the  rarest  and  most  curious  sorts  grow 
freely,  and  a  little  shoot  of  the  Australian  blue-gum 


—  97  — 

(Eucalyptus  globulus)  becomes  in  2  years  a  shade- 
tree  15  or  20  ft.  high. 

San  Diego  is  another  favorite  resort,  460  miles  S.  E. 
of  San  Francisco.  The  climate  is  very  salubrious,  the 
thermometer  seldom  rises  to  80°,  or  sinks  to  the  freez 
ing  point,  the  usual  mean  being  62°. 

482  miles  from  San  Francisco  lies  the  largest  city 
in  southern  California,  Los  Angeles,  on  the  W.  bank  of 
the  Los  Angeles  river,  a  small  stream,  30  miles  above 
its  entrance  into  the  Pacific.  The  city  was  settled  by 
Spaniards  in  1780,  and  was  called  Pueblo  de  los 
Angeles  from  the  excellence  of  its  climate  and  the 
beauty  of  its  surroundings.  Its  population  by  the 
census  of  1880  was  11,311,  and  the  adobe  buildings  of 
which  it  was  originally  composed  are  fast  giving  way 
to  larger  and  more  imposing  structures.  In  the  N.  W. 
portion  is  a  hill  60  feet  high,  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  the  city,  which  lies  in  a  sheltered  valley,  bounded 
on  the  W.  by  low  hills  that  extend  from  the  Santa 
Monica  mountains,  40  miles  distant,  and  on  the  E.  by 
the  San  Gabriel  plateau. 

The  climate  is  mild,  the  nights,  however,  are  chilly. 
Along  both  banks  of  the  river  below  the  city  extends  a 
fertile  plain,  planted  with  vineyards  and  orange-groves, 
and  there  are  also  large  vineyards  within  the  city 
limits.  Los  Angeles  is  the  center  of  the  orange  grow 
ing  business  of  California,  and  lemons,  olives,  and  other 
tropical  fruits  are  cultivated  in  the  vicinity. 

About  60  miles  E.  of  Los  Angeles  is  San  Bernardino. 
The  view  of  Mount  San  Bernardino,  the  loftiest  peak  of 


—  98  — 

the  Coast  Range,  is  exceedingly  grand.  San  Ber 
nardino  is  reached  from  Los  Angeles  by  a  stage-ride  of 
10  hours. 

The  Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  between  Los  An 
geles  and  Tucson,  Arizona,  leads  through  the  famous 
Colorado  Desert,  300  feet  below  the  level  of  the  sea, 
with  no  vegetation  but  snow-white  sand  on  both  sides, 
now  and  then  interrupted  by  lonely  Cacti — a  very 
triste  wearysome  voyage.  After  Yuma  is  reached, 
there  is  a  different  atmosphere,  and  one  feels  greatly 
relieved.  Yuma  is  near  the  junction  of  the  Gila  and 
Colorado  rivers,  and  is  the  W.  terminus  of  the  Arizona 
branch  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  and  has  a 
population  of  2,500. 

Tucson,  with  about  7,000  inhabitants,  was,  until 
recently,  the  capital  of  the  territory  and  is  an  ancient 
city,  founded  in  1560  by  Jesuits.  It  does  a  large 
business  in  exporting  gold  dust,  wool  and  hides.  Some 
sixty  miles  distant,  near  Casa  Grande,  is  a  remarkable 
ruin  of  an  ancient  Pueblo  city,  these  interesting  re 
mains  being  preserved  in  a  very  perfect  state,  and 
extending  2-rr  miles  by  1|-  miles,  showing  that  it  must 
have  had  a  population  in  olden  times  of  at  least  100,- 
000  people. 

Prescott,  the  capital  of  Arizona,  is  a  small  but  very 
active  place,  and  has  an  important  commerce  with 
mineral,  agricultural  and  stock  raising  products. 

Arizona  was  first  visited  by  Spanish  explorers  as 
early  as  1526,  and  is  set  off  from  New  Mexico  and  be 
came  a  territory  in  1863.  Area:  113,020  square 


—  99  — 

miles  j  greatest  length,  375  miles  ;  greatest  breadth, 
340  miles.  Country  drained  by  Colorado  and  Gila, 
with  their  tributaries. 

Temperature  at  Prescott :  winter,  34°  to  42°  5 
summer,  71°  to  73°.  Kainfall  at  Fort  Defiance,  14  inches. 

Southern  Pacific  crosses  from  east  to  west  near 
southern  boundary,  and  Atlantic  and  Pacific  north  of 
the  central  portion,  making  ready  communication  with 
East  and  West.  Wheat,  barley,  potatoes,  hay  and 
corn  the  chief  crops.  Soil  fertile  in  river  bottoms  and 
among  valleys  of  Middle  and  Eastern  Arizona,  corn 
planting  following  wheat  or  barley  harvest,  giving  two 
crops  yearly  ;  oranges  and  other  fruit  produce  well 
where  there  is  water,  the  principal  portion  of  irrigable 
land  lies  in  the  valley  of  the  Gila  and  its  northern 
branches  5  rich  and  abundant  grasses,  together  with 
the  mild  climate,  make  much  of  the  territory  well 
adapted  to  stock  raising ;  valuable  timber  is  on  the 
mountains  and  along  the  streams. 

Abundant  mineral  wealth,  which  can  now  be  de 
veloped  with  profit,  owing  to  completion  of  railways  j 
nearly  all  mountain  ranges  contain  gold,  silver,  copper 
and  lead  ;  the  gold  production  in  1882  was  $1,065,000  ; 
silver,  $7,500,000. 

The  Territory  ranks  second  in  silver.  Superior 
quality  of  lime  found  near  Prescott  and  Tucson;  beds 
of  gypsum  in  San  Pedro  valley  j  remarkable  deposits 
of  pure,  transparent  salt  near  Callville. 

Population  40,440,  including  155  Colored,  1,630 
Chinese  and  3,493  Indians. 


—  100  — 

School  population,  10,283;  school  age,  0-21. 

From  Arizona  I  traveled  directly  to  El  Paso  in 
Texas,  staying  there  only  a  very  short  time.  The 
Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  E.R.  connects  here  in  its 
own  depot  with  the  Mexican  Central  R.R.  The  popula 
tion  of  El  Paso  is  about  1,500  and  the  city  is  growing 
very  rapidly ;  a  large  retail  and  wholesale  trade  is  done 
here,  and  its  superior  railroad  facilities  give  El  Paso 
merchants  many  advantages.  Street  cars  run  across 
the  Rio  Grande  to  the  old  Mexican  town  of  Paso  del  Norte. 

El  Paso  del  Norte  is  built  almost  entirely  of  adobe, 
and  the  homes  of  its  6,000  people  are  scattered  along  a 
narrow,  rambling,  adobe-walled  street  running  several 
miles  down  the  river. 

The  ride  to  the  city  of  Chihuahua  introduces  the 
traveler  to  the  wide  expanse  of  that  high  table-land 
which  forms  the  greater  portion  of  the  interior  of 
Mexico,  but  for  variety  it  also  includes  a  view  of  the 
beautiful  valley  of  the  Rio  Carmen,  with  its  green 
meadows  and  dark  forests,  while  beyond,  on  the  W., 
lie  the  Sierra  Madre  mountains. 

Chihuahua,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  the  same 
name,  is  a  beautiful  city  writh  20,000  population. 
The  city  being  the  center  of  a  rich  mining,  agricultural 
and  stock-growing  country  has  a  great  deal  of  wealth 
and  refinement.  Its  magnificent  cathedral  is  one  of  the 
most  imposing  edifices  on  the  continent. 

Returned  to  El  Paso  from  this  little  and  short  Mex 
ican  excursion,  I  boarded  the  train  for  San  Antonio  in 
Texas. 


—  101  — 

San  Antonio  is  the  chief  city  of  western  Texas  and 
has  a  population  of  about  22,000,  one-third  of  whom 
are  of  German  and  one-third  of  Mexican  origin.  It  is 
situated  on  the  San  Antonio  and  San  Pedro  rivers,  and 
is  divided  into  three  quarters :  San  Antonio  proper,  be 
tween  the  two  streams ;  Alamo,  E.  of  the  San  Antonio ; 
and  Chihuahua,  W.  of  the  San  Pedro.  The  former  is 
the  business  quarter,  and  has  been  almost  entirely  re 
built  since  1860. 

In  the  north  part  of  the  Alamo  Plaza  is  the  famous 
Fort  Alamo,  where  in  March,  1836,  a  garrison  of  Tex- 
ans,  attacked  by  an  overwhelming  Mexican  force,  per 
ished  to  a  man  rather  than  yield.  Missions  San  Jose, 
San  Juan,  and  Concepcion,  built  by  the  Spaniards,  who 
founded  San  Antonio  in  1714,  are  interesting  objects; 
and  the  market  places  and  street  scenes  amuse  the  vis 
itor  as  being  so  queer  and  foreign. 

Austin  was  the  next  place  I  visited.  It  is  the  cap 
ital  of  Texas,  has  11,000  inhabitants  and  is  situated  on 
the  N.  bank  of  the  Colorado  river,  160  miles  from  its 
mouth. 

There  are  many  fine  buildings  in  Austin  and  sev 
eral  State  charitable  institutions.  An  artesian  well  has 
been  sunk  north  of  the  Capitol,  to  the  depth  of  1,300 
ft.,  from  which  a  small  stream  constantly  flows,  dis 
charging  a  medicinal,  lime-impregnated  water. 

Houston,  the  third  city  of  Texas  in  population  and 
commerce  and  the  first  in  manufactures,  is  situated  at 
the  head  of  tidewater  on  Buffalo  Bayou,  45  miles  above 
its  mouth  in  Galveston  Bay.  By  the  census  of  1880 


—  102  — 

it  had  a  population  of  18,646,  and  is  the  center  of  the 
railroad  system  of  the  State,  with  nine  diverging  rail 
ways  which  bring  to  it  the  produce  of  a  rich  grazing 
and  agricultural  region.  Its  manufactures  are  varied 
and  extensive.  The  Bayou  is  navigable  for  vessels 
drawing  13  ft.  of  water. 

Here  also  are  several  beautiful  public  and  private 
buildings. 

From  Houston  the  Galveston,  Houston  and  Hender 
son  R.  R.  runs  S.  E.  in  50  miles  to  Galveston,  the 
largest  city  and  commercial  metropolis  of  Texas,  situ 
ated  at  the  N.  E.  extremity  of  Galveston  Island,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  bay  of  the  same  name.  The  city  is  laid 
out  with  wide  and  straight  streets,  bordered  by  numer 
ous  flower  gardens,  and  contained  35,000  inhabitants 
in  1883. 

The  University  of  St.  Mary  (Roman  Catholic)  and 
the  Galveston  Medical  College  are  flourishing  institu 
tions.  Beside  the  handsome  churches,  the  public 
buildings  are  beautiful  and  extensive.  The  Ursuline 
Convent  has  a  female  academy  connected  with  it. 

The  Island  of  Galveston  is  about  28  miles  long  and 
1-J  to  3^r  wide,  bordered  by  a  smooth,  hard  beach,  and 
most  all  the  streets  in  the  city  are  lined  with  white  and 
red  Oleanders.  The  harbor  is  the  best  in  the  State, 
and  the  commerce  of  the  city  is  very  extensive,  the 
chief  business  being  the  shipment  of  cotton. 

Texas  was  first  settled  by  the  French  on  the  La- 
vaca  in  1685;  admitted  1845;  seceded  February, 
1861;  re-admitted  1868. 


—  103  — 

Area,  265,780  square  miles ;  extreme  length,  825 
square  miles ;  extreme  breadth,  740  miles ;  coast  line, 
400  miles. 

Temperature  at  Galveston:  winter,  53°  to  63°; 
summer,  82°  to  84°. 

Eainfall  at  Fort  Brown,  33  inches.  Brownsville, 
El  Paso,  Indianola  and  Galveston  are  ports  of  entry. 

Number  of  farms,  174,184;  average  value  per 
acre,  clear  land,  $8.98;  woodland,  $4. 

Cotton  most  valuable  crop. 

Ranks  first  in  cattle  and  cotton;  second  in  sugar, 
sheep,  mules  and  horses. 

Population  1,591,749,  among  which,  393,384  Ne 
groes,  136  Chinese  and  992  Indians. 

U.  S.  Army  and  paupers  excluded  from  voting. 

Number  of  colleges,  10;  school  population,  295,- 
344;  school  age,  8-14. 

Bound  for  New  Orleans  in  Louisiana;  I  arrived  in 
this  latter  place  in  a  considerably  short  time  after  leav 
ing  the  State  of  Texas.  New  Orleans,  the  chief  city  and 
commercial  metropolis  of  Louisiana,  is  situated  on  both 
banks  of  the  Mississippi  river,  100  miles  above  its 
mouth.  The  older  portion  of  the  city  is  built  within  a 
great  bend  of  the  river,  from  which  circumstance  it  de 
rives  its  name,  Crescent  City.  It  is  built  on  land 
gently  descending  from  the  river  toward  a  marshy  tract 
in  the  rear,  and  considerably  below  the  level  of  the 
river  at  high-water  mark,  which  is  prevented  from 
overflowing  by  a  vast  embankment  of  earth,  called  the 
" Levee."  This  levee  is  15  ft.  wide  and  14  ft.  high, 


—  104  — 

is  constructed  for  a  great  distance  along  the  river  bank, 
and  forms  a  beautiful  promenade. 

New  Orleans  was  settled  in  1718,  but  abandoned 
in  consequence  of  overflows,  storms  and  sickness  5  was 
settled  in  1723,  held  by  the  French  till  1729,  then  by 
the  Spaniards  till  1801 ;  and  by  the  French  again  till 
1803,  when  with  the  province  of  Louisiana,  it  was 
ceded  to  the  United  States.  It  was  incorporated  as  a 
city  in  1804.  The  most  memorable  events  in  the  his 
tory  of  New  Orleans  are  the  rebellion  against  the  ces 
sion  by  France  to  Spain  in  1763,  the  battle  of  January 
8th,  1815,  in  which  the  British  were  defeated  by  An 
drew  Jackson,  and  the  capture  of  the  city  by  Admiral 
Farragut  on  April  24th,  1862.  In  1810,  seven  years 
after  its  cession  to  the  United  States,  the  population  of 
New  Orleans  was  17,243,  and  according  to  the  census 
of  1880  it  amounted  to  216,140.  In  the  value  of  its 
exports  and  its  entire  foreign  commerce,  New.  Orleans 
ranks  next  to  New  York.  Not  unfrequently  from 
1,000  to  1,500  steamers  and  other  vessels  from  all 
parts  of  the  world  may  be  seen  lying  at  the  levee. 

New  Orleans  is  the  chief  cotton  market  of  the 
world;  and  besides  cotton,  it  sends  abroad  sugar,  rice, 
tobacco,  flour  and  pork  in  great  quantities. 

The  manufactures  of  the  city  are  not  extensive. 

New  Orleans  is  not  rich  in  architecture,  but  there 
are  a  few  noteworthy  buildings,  chief  among  these  are: 
the  Custom  House,  the  U.  S.  Branch  Mint,  the  City 
Hall,  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Louis  (Catholic),  the  Church 
of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  the  Jewish  Synagogue  Temple 


—  105  — 

Sinai,  the  St.  Paul's,  and  the  First  Presbyterian 
Church. 

The  University  of  Louisiana  and  the  Straight  Uni 
versity  (for  colored  people  exclusively)  are  of  a  high 
order. 

Of  charitable  institutions  New  Orleans  has  an 
abundance. 

Chief  among  the  pleasure  grounds  of  the  city  is 
Jackson  Square,  with  the  equestrian  statue  of  General 
Jackson. 

The  French  market  is  the  great  "  sight "  of  New 
Orleans,  and  one  of  the  most  interesting  spots  in  the 
vicinity  is  Battle-Field,  the  scene  of  General  Jackson's 
great  victory  over  the  British,  January  8,  1815.  A 
marble  monument  will  commemorate  this  victory.  A 
National  Cemetery  occupies  one  of  the  corners  of  the 
field. 

Lake  Ponchartrin,  5  miles  N.  of  the  city,  is  famous 
for  its  fish  and  game.  The  swamps  which  lie  between 
the  city  and  the  lake  are  covered  with  a  thick  growth 
of  cypress  and  other  trees. 

Carrollton,  in  the  suburbs,  has  many  fine  public 
gardens  and  private  residences. 

Algiers,  opposite  New  Orleans,  has  extensive  dry- 
docks  and  ship-yards. 

An  excursion  to  Baton  Rouge,  since  1881  capital 
of  Louisiana,  was  well  worth  undertaking. 

The  road  to  this  place,  "  The  Coast/'  as  it  is 
called,  is  lined  with  plantations.  Every  spot  suscep 
tible  of  cultivation  is  transformed  into  a  beautiful 


—  106  — 

garden,  containing  specimens  of  all  those  choice  fruits 
and  flowers  which  flourish  only  in  tropical  climes. 

Baton  Eouge  has  8,000  inhabitants,  and  is  pleas 
antly  situated  on  the  last  bluff  that  is  seen  in  descend 
ing  the  Mississippi,  and  contains  several  public  build 
ings. 

Proceeding  on  my  excursion,  I  reached  Knoxville, 
in  Mississippi,  a  small  town,  and  afterwards  Vicksburg, 
situated  on  the  Walnut  Hills,  which  extends  for  about 
two  miles  along  the  river,  rising  to  the  height  of  500 
feet,  and  displaying  the  finest  scenery  of  the  lower 
Mississippi.  It  is  a  well  built  city  of  11,814  inhabit 
ants.  The  view  of  the  city  from  the  water  is  in  the 
highest  degree  picturesque.  Vicksburg  was  founded 
in  1836  by  a  planter  named  Vick,  members  of  wrhose 
family  are  still  living  there.  As  the  chief  commercial 
market  on  this  portion  of  the  river,  it  has  long  been  a 
place  of  some  note,  but  it  is  more  widely  known  as  the 
scene  of  one  of  the  most  obstinate  and  decisive  struggles 
of  the  Civil  War.  After  the  loss  successively  of  Co 
lumbus,  Memphis  and  New  Orleans,  the  Confederates 
made  here  their  last  and  most  desperate  stand  for  the 
control  of  the  great  river.  The  place  was  surrounded 
by  vast  fortifications,  the  hills  crowned  with  batteries, 
and  a  large  army  under  General  Pemberton  placed  in 
it  as  a  garrison.  Its  capture  by  General  Grant,  after 
a  protracted  siege,  on  the  4th  of  July,  1863,  cut  the 
Confederacy  in  twain.  Above  Vicksburg,  at  the  point 
where  Sherman  made  his  entrance  from  the  "  Valley 
of  Death,"  is  the  largest  national  cemetery  in  the 


—  107  — 

country,  containing  the  remains  of  nearly  16,000 
soldiers. 

I  extended  my  exploration  to  Jackson,  the  capital 
of  Mississippi.  It  is  regularly  built  upon  undulating 
ground  on  the  W.  bank  of  Pearl  Kiver,  and  has  about 
6,000  inhabitants. 

There  are  several  exceedingly  fine  State  Institu 
tions,  the  State  library  containing  15,000  volumes. 
Jackson  was  captured  by  General  Grant,  on  May  the 
14th,  1863,  after  a  battle  with  General  Johnston,  in 
which  the  Confederates  were  defeated  and  valuable 
property  destroyed. 

On  the  road  to  New  Orleans  I  stopped  at  Natchez, 
built  mostly  upon  a  high  bluff,  200  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  stream.  This  place  was  founded  by  d'Iberville, 
a  Frenchman,  in  1700,  and  is  replete  with  historic  as 
sociations.  Here  once  lived  and  flourished  the  noblest 
tribe  of  Indians  on  the  continent,  and  from  that  tribe  it 
takes  its  name.  Their  pathetic  story  is  festooned  with 
the  flowers  of  poetry  and  romance.  Their  ceremonies 
and  creed  were  not  unlike  those  of  the  Fire-worship 
pers  of  India.  Their  priests  kept  the  fire  continually 
burning  upon  the  altar  in  their  temple  of  the  Sun,  and 
the  tradition  is  that  they  got  the  fire  from  heaven. 
Just  before  the  advent  of  the  white  man,  it  is  said,  the 
fire  accidently  went  out,  and  that  was  one  reason  why 
they  became  disheartened  in  their  struggle  with  the 
pale-faces.  The  last  remnant  of  the  race  were  still 
existing  a  few  years  ago  in  Texas. 

Mississippi,  or  the  Bayou  State,  whose  name  is  of 


—  108  — 

Indian  origin,  signifying,  "  Father  of  Waters,"  had  its 
first  permanent  settlement  at  Natchez,  1716  ;  admitted, 
1817;  seceded,  1861;  re-admitted,  1870. 

Area:  46,810  square  miles,  extreme  length,  332 
miles;  extreme  breadth,  189  miles;  mean  breadth, 
142  miles;  gulf  frontage,  including  irregularities  and 
islands,  287  miles;  harbors  at:  Pascagoula,  Biloxi, 
Mississippi  City  and  Shieldsborough. 

Temperature  at  Vicksburg:  Winter,  47°  to  56°; 
Summer,  80°  to  83°.  Rainfall  at  Natchez,  54  inches. 
Number  of  farms,  101,772.  Average  value  per  acre: 
clear  land,  $7.88;  woodland,  $3.78. 

Forest  area  very  large;  pine,  oak,  chestnut,  walnut 
and  magnolia  trees  grow  on  uplands  and  bluffs,  and 
long-leafed  pine  on  islands  and  in  sandy  regions  of 
the  South ;  cotton  lands  mostly  in  Yazoo  and  Mississippi 
bottoms. 

Ranks  second  in  cotton. 

Population,  inclusive  650,291  Negros,  51  Chinese, 
1857  Indians,  1,131,597.  Slaves,  in  1860,  436,631. 

Number  of  Colleges,  3;  school  population  444,131, 
school  age  5  to  21.  Returned  to  New  Orleans  I  began 
with  the  preparation  for  the  statistics  of  the  Creole  State. 

Louisiana,  named  in  honor  of  Louis  XIV,  King  of 
France,  was  first  permanently  settled  by  French,  at  New 
Orleans  in  171 8;  admitted  1812;  seceded  January  1861; 
re-admitted  June  1868. 

Area:  48,720  square  miles:  greatest  length,  east 
and  west,  300  miles;  breadth,  240  miles;  coast  line, 
1,256  miles. 


—  109  — - 

Temperature  at  New  Orleans;  Winter,  53°  to  61°; 
Summer,  81°  to  83°.  Rainfall  51  inches. 

Number  of  Farms,  48,292.  Average  value  per 
acre,  cleared  land,  $14.36;  wood  land  $3.53.  57  per 
cent,  of  laborers  engaged  in  agriculture ;  rural  income, 
per  capita,  $209. 

Ranks  first  in  sugar  and  molasses.  Population, 
939,946  including  483,655  Negroes,  489  Chinese  and 
848  Indians.  Slaves  in  1860,  331,726. 

Sugar-cane  first  cultivated  in  the  United  States,  near 
New  Orleans,  1751  and  first  Sugar-mill  used  1758. 

I  did  not  succeed  in  obtaining  data  about  the  school 
population. 

Having  procured  my  passport  for  the  intended  visit 
of  the  West  Indies,  I  took  passage  for  Havana.  Key 
West  was  duly  reached  and  a  short  stay  made  at  this 
rather  picturesque  place.  Key  West,  the  second  largest 
city  in  Florida,  is  situated  upon  an  island  of  the  same 
name.  It  is  of  coral  formation  and  has  a  shallow  soil, 
consisting  of  disintegrated  coral,  with  a  slight  admix 
ture  of  decayed  vegetable  matter.  There  are  no 
springs  and  the  inhabitants  (about  7,000)  are  dependent 
on  rain  or  distilled  water.  The  natural  growth  is  a 
dense,  stunted  chaparral,  in  which  various  species  of 
cactus  are  a  prominent  feature.  Tropical  fruits  are 
cultivated  to  some  extent,  the  chief  varieties  being 
cocoanuts,  bananas,  pineapples,  guavas,  sapodillas  and 
a  few  oranges. 

A  portion  of  the  population  are  Cubans  and  natives 
of  the  Bahama  Islands,  and  this  place  being  the  key  to 


—  110  — 

the  best  entrance  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  is  strongly 
fortified  and  has  a  fine  harbor. 

Among  the  principal  industries  are  sponging,  turt- 
ling,  fishing  and  the  manufactures  of  Cigars.  The 
principal  work  of  defense  is  Fort  Taylor. 

The  weather  favorable,  Havana  is  reached  from 
here  in  about  11  or  12  hours,  where  the  traveler  is 
subjected  to  a  very  rigorous  examination  on  the  part 
of  the  Duana  (custom  officers).  The  bay  of  Havana  is 
extremely  beautiful.  To  the  right,  the  Castle  Morro 
(the  fortification  of  the  bay)  is  a  hilly  range  with  many 
forts,  towers,  bastions  and  many  noteworthy  curiosities 
among  which  is  the  military  prison,  etc.  On  the  left, 
lies  the  old  city  of  Havana,  built  almost  to  the  water's 
edge.  The  impression  on  entering  the  city  at  first  is 
not  'very  favorable,  but  the  traveler  soon  finds  himself 
in  an  attractive  place,  especially  when  visiting  the 
public  gardens  and  promenades.  The  city  of  Havana 
is  of  a  very  old  date.  Most  of  the  public  and  a  great 
many  private  buildings  are  built  in  the  Moorish  style. 
The  commerce  of  the  city  is  of  colossal  dimensions,  and 
the  shipping  from  here  to  other  West  Indian  islands 
very  large.  During  the  winter  months  Havana  is 
thronged  with  visitors,  especially  Americans,  who  come 
here  to  escape  the  northerly  winds  and  inclemency  of 
the  weather,  or  to  restore  broken  health.  The  drives 
in  the  vicinity  are  very  beautiful.  The  old  and  brilli 
ant  edifice  of  the  cathedral,  with  the  ornamented  in 
terior  and  the  precious  gems,  is  worth  visiting. 

The   principal   industry   is  the   manufacturing  of 


—  Ill  — 

cigars  and  cigarettes.  In  these  factories  over  20,000 
people  find  employment. 

The  Governor's  garden,  in  the  suburbs,  contains 
beautiful  specimens  of  palms  and  cocoanut  trees  and 
other  exotic  plants  and  flowers. 

The  yellow  fever  hospital  proves  to  be  a  very 
beneficial  institution,  since  this  terrible  scourge  is  rag 
ing  here  almost  the  whole  year  through,  and  the  Ob 
servatory  (meteorological)  rather  in  an  unfavorable 
condition.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Bay  is  Regla,  a 
small  village,  where,  generally  on  Sundays,  bull-fights 
take  place. 

The  wonderful  cave  of  Matanzas  and  the  lovely 
Valley  of  Yumiri  are  accessible  from  the  city  in  twro 
and  a  half  hours  by  rail,  also  several  extensive  sugar 
plantations. 

I  did  not  make  any  other  excursions  on  the  Island 
of  Cuba,  on  account  of  the  rather  advanced  period  of 
the  year  and  the  prevalence  of  tropical  maladies,  and 
collecting  all  the  possible  data  of  this  island  I  herewith 
reproduce  the  same. 

Cuba,  a  Spanish  colony  in  the  West  Indies,  has  an 
area  of  43,220  square  miles,  and  a  population  of  1,521,- 
684.  50  per  cent,  of  the  inhabitants  are  blacks  and 
enfranchised  slaves.  The  greatest  length  of  the  island 
is  760  miles ;  width  varies  from  20  to  135  miles  j  coast 
line  about  2,000  miles.  Surface  is  broken  by  a  moun 
tain  chain  running  through  the  center  from  east  to 
west ;  average  altitude  of  summit  is  between  5,000  and 
6,000  feet.  Pico  de  Turquino,  7,670  feet,  is  the  high- 


—  112  — 

est  peak.  There  are  over  260  rivers,  all  valueless  for 
navigation  purposes,  except  the  Cauto.  Mineral  springs 
abound. 

But  little  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  develop 
ment  of  the  mineral  wealth.  Gold  was  obtained  by  the 
early  colonists,  but  for  two  centuries  comparatively 
none  has  been  found.  There  are  extensive  copper 
mines,  and  coal  is  abundant.  Copperas  and  alum  have 
also  been  obtained. 

Rainfall  at  Havana :  in  the  wet  season,  27.8 
inches  ;  dry  season,  12,7  inches.  Average  tempera 
ture  :  at  Havana,  77°  j  at  Santiago  de  Cuba,  80°. 
Yellow  fever  and  earthquakes  are  frequent. 

13  million  acres  of  Cuban  territory  are  uncleared 
forests  ;  7  million  wild  and  uncultivated.  Principal 
woods  grown  and  exported  are  mahogany,  rosewood, 
Cuban  ebony  and  cedar. 

Tobacco  and  sugar  raising  principal  occupation  of 
the  people. 

Many  sugar  plantations  comprise  10,000  acres 
each. 

Two  crops  of  Indian  corn  grown  per  year ;  rice,  cot 
ton,  cocoa  and  indigo  also  produced  5  most  tropical 
fruits  are  abundant.  Sugar  product  averages  520,000 
tons  per  year.  Total  value  of  agricultural  products 
over  90  million  dollars.  United  States  receives  80 
per  cent,  of  Cuban  sugar.  No  manufactures  deserving 
mention. 

Roman  Catholicism  is  the  only  religion  tolerated. 
Education  compulsory;  school  attendants,  34,812. 


—  113  — 

The  government  is  administered  by  a  Captain  Gen 
eral,  appointed  by  the  Spanish  crown. 

The  island  is  now  represented  in  the  Spanish  Cor 
tes,  Madrid. 

Thirty-six  hours  ^after  leaving  Havana,  the  first 
Mexican  port  (the  proper  seaport  of  the  old  capital  of 
Yucatan),  Progreso,  is  reached.  Twenty-two  miles 
distant  from  the  latter  is  Merida,  the  capital  of  the 
State  of  Yucatan,  a  beautiful  and  quaint  old  city  of 
about  55,000  inhabitants.  The  ride  from  Progreso 
to  the  capital  is  very  interesting,  leading  through  a 
laguna  with  brilliant  aquatic  and  tropical  plants  and 
admirably  fine  scenery.  The  city  and  all  the  sur 
rounding  country  abound  in  numerous  picturesque 
ruins  of  great  antiquity.  Sixty-nine  miles  from  the 
city  are  the  celebrated  ruins  of  Uxmal,  and  at  seventy- 
five  miles  distant  the  famous  cave  of  Sahachao,  in  the 
village  of  Tekox.  The  climate  of  Merida  is  very 
healthy,  and  deer  shooting  found  in  its  neighborhood. 

From  Progreso  the  steamer  proceeds  to  Frontera, 
remaining  there  but  a  few  hours  to  transfer  passengers, 
the  mail  and  cargo,  and  then  continues  the  route  to 
Vera  Cruz,  about  200  miles  from  Frontera. 

Approaching  Vera  Cruz,  the  Peak  of  Orizaba,  cov 
ered  with  snow,  is  seen  at  a  distance  of  50  to  70  miles. 

The  old  and  historic  city  of  Vera  Cruz  contains 
about  16,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  commercial  me 
tropolis  of  Mexico. 

In   all    commercial  and  social  circles  in   this    city, 
Spanish,  English,  German  and  French  are  freely  spoken. 


—  114  — 

There  are  many  old  churches  and  chapels,  monas 
teries  and  convents  in  Yera  Cruz,  and  the  tolling  of 
church  bells  often  deafening. 

The  commercial  establishments  are  massive,  fine 
structures,  and  the  "  Calle  de  la  Indcpendencia"  a 
beautiful,  long  street,  traversing  the  city.  The  bay  of 
Vera  Cruz  is  almost  of  an  inkish  hue.  The  gloomy 
looking  fortification  of  the  harbor,  Fort  Ullao;  is  of  a 
very  old  date,  and  its  subterranean,  or  rather  sub- 
aquarian,  prisons  are,  no  doubt,  remnants  of  Spanish 
inquisitory  history.  The  partially  rocky  hills  of  the 
fort  extend  to  a  great  length. 

The  Great  Mexican  Railway  connects  Vera  Cruz 
with  the  City  of  Mexico,  a  distance  of  260  miles. 

This  road  has  been  justly  considered  one  of  the 
most  wonderful  engineering  enterprises  ever  accom 
plished.  Its  construction  occupied  ten  years,  at  a  cost 
of  $27,000,000.  A  great  part  of  the  road  extends  over 
the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains,  reaching  at  its  highest 
point  of  elevation,  Boca  del  Monte,  8,310  feet.  The 
railroad  trip  is  not  only  not  tedious,  though  it  takes 
about  18  hours  to  make  it,  but  wonderfully  grand. 
During  one  part  of  the  trip  the  train  rises  4,700  feet  in 
a  distance  of  25  miles. 

The  scenery  cannot  be  imagined,  as  the  country 
through  which  it  passes  presents  scenes  of  unparalleled 
grandeur  and  beauty,  and  on  the  journey  every  variety 
of  climate  is  experienced,  passing  from  the  tropical 
climate  of  Vera  Cruz  and  the  cold  winds  from  the  snow 
peaks  of  the  mountains,  to  the  ever  spring-like  temper- 


_  115  __ 


ature  of  the  City  of  Mexico,  where  s#d<Jen  changes  are 
unknown,  the  thermometer  seldom,  if  ever,  varying 
'from  00°  and  70°  during  the  entire  year.  - 

This  perfect  spring-like  climate  makes  it  especially 
adapted  to  invalids.  As  the  train  advances  over  mag 
nificent  bridges  and  viaducts  that  span  deep  ravines 
and  beautiful  valleys,  or  plunges  through  tunnels  and 
skirts  the  mountain  side  in  great  curves,  it  presents 
views  of  the  grandest  and  most  picturesque  scenery 
of  the  world. 

The  principal  cities  on  the  road  are  Cordoba,  a 
town  of  about  10,000  inhabitants,  noted  for  its  coffee 
plantations,  where  are  located  the  principal  workshops 
on  the  road. 

In  passing  Orizaba  the  scene  is  beyond  description, 
as  the  train  curves  around  the  Peak  of  Orizaba,  which 
is  15,800  ft.  high,  covered  with  snow  and  ice.  This 
peak  supplies  the  City  of  Mexico  and  Vera  Cruz  with 
ice. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Vera  Cruz  is  the  famous  resort 
and  rendez-vous  of  the  elite,  Medelin  named  after  the 
great  conqueror's  birthplace. 

I  arrived  in  the  evening  in  the  City  of  Mexico  and 
was  greatly  surprised  to  find  the  old  home  of  Monte- 
zuma's  brilliantly  lighted  by  electricity. 

Early  the  next  morning  I  paid  the  Representative 
of  the  German  Empire  in  Mexico,  Mr.  von  Wecker- 
Gottcr,  my  visit  and  to  this  gentleman  as  well  as  to  the 
German  Consul,  Mr.  Kossidowsky,  I  am  greatly  indebted 
for  all  the  favors  and  kindnesses  bestowed  on  me. 


—  116  — 

The  Minister  von  Wecker-Gotter  was  leaving 
Mexico  a  short  time.after  my  arrival,  and  before  starting, 
kindly  accompanied  me  on  my  excursion  from  the 
City  of  Mexico  to  Orizaba.  From  this  latter  place  I 
visited  Atoyae,  29  miles  distant,  with  an  exceedingly 
rich  u  Flora"  and  where  I  made  valuable  collections. 

In  Cordoba  I  had  the  pleasure  to  form  the  ac 
quaintance  of  the  famous  botanist,  Fink,  and  over 
different  detours,  for  instance,  Huatusco,  I  proceeded 
to  Mirador. 

Furnished  with  recommendations  to  the  Governor 
of  Vera  Cruz-Llave  by  the  kindness  of  the  Secretary 
of  the  Interior,  the  Governor  Senor  Castillo  received 
me  heartily  in  Orizaba.  In  Mirador  I  visited  the  ex 
tensive  Hacienda  of  Senor  Sartorius,  a  German. 

Though  only  a  very  short  time  in  the  City  of  Mexico, 
I  intended  to  explore  the  Republic  in  different  directions 
and  then  return  to  the  city,  to  stay  there  for  some  time. 

I  commenced  with  Guadalupe,  with  the  eld,  note 
worthy  church  of  uNuestra  Senora  de  Guadalupe," 
San  Juan  Teotihuacan,  Toluca,  the  capital  of  the 
State  of  Mexico,  with  13,000  inhabitants,  Cuantitlan 
and  the  historic  City  of  Queretaro,  which  was  the 
scene  of  the  downfall  and  execution  of  the  ill-fated 
Emperor  Maximilian  in  1867. 

The  city  has  50,000  population  and  contains  many 
important  woolen  mills,  and  is  chiefly  noticeable  for  its 
numerous  ecclesiastical  and  religious  structures,  among 
the  latter  being  the  Franciscan  Monastery,  with  its 
noble  gardens  and  grounds. 


—  117  — 

Not  far  from  this  place  and  nearer  from  the  City  of 
Mexico  is  Polatitlan  and  Tula,  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
of  the  same  name,  famous  as  the  ancient  capital  of  the 
Toltecs. 

At  a  more  distant  excursion,  I  visited  Guadalajara, 
the  capital  of  the  State  of  Jalisco,  with  93,875  in 
habitants,  a  very  important  city,  and  Guanajuato  with 
rich  silver  mines  in  its  vicinity.  Not  far  from  Lagos 
there  are  also  very  productive  mines. 

Guanajuato  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Guanajuato, 
has  a  population  of  73,500  and  important  cotton 
factories.  In  one  of  these  latter  is  the  greatest  water- 
wheel  in  the  world.  There  are  also  rich  mines  of 
silver  in  its  neighborhood. 

To  Colima,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Colima,  I 
started  from  San  Marcos  and  was  greatly  pleased  to 
witness  the  eruption  of  the  volcano  Colima,  then  active. 

Once  more  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  I  enjoyed  the 
valuable  acquaintance  of  the  well-known  botanist 
Herera  and  intended  to  remain  in  the  Metropolis,  to 
recuperate  from  the  wearysome  travels,  etc. 

This  ancient  and  interesting  capital  has  a  population 
of  over  300,000,  and  was  a  scat  of  art,  science  and 
commerce  long  before  the  Spanish  conquerers  reached 
the  shores  of  the  New  World.  It  is  situated  in  the 
centre  of  the  great  valley  of  Mexico,  which  measures 
45  miles  long  and  31  miles  wide.  Its  elevation  above 
the  sea  is  7,420  ft.,  which  gives  it  a  climate  of  remark 
able  uniformity,  the  range  of  the  thermometer  being 
from  50°  to  70°  F.  The  rainy  season  begins  early  in 


—  118  — 

June  and  continues  until  September,  showers  occurring 
usually  in  the  afternoons  and  nights. 

The  city  is  built  on  a  part  of  the  old  bed  of  Lake 
Texcoco,  and  tradition  gives  it  a  more  romantic  origin 
than  it  ascribes  to  the  founding  of  Rome.  Science  and 
art  have  done  much  to  make  it  a  beautiful  city,  and 
there  seems  to  be  a  disposition  on  the  part  of  the  people 
and  the  government  to  make  their  nation's  capital  com 
pare  favorably  with  the  capitals  of  other  countries.  The 
city  is  encircled  by  walls  and  entered  by  gates.  The 
residences  are  mostly  of  stone,  1  or  2  stories  high,  and 
built  around  court-yards.  The  public  edifices  are 
numerous  and  substantial. 

Chief  among  the  objects  of  interest  is  the  Cathedral, 
500  ft.  in  length,  by  420  ft.  in  breadth,  the  largest 
ecclesiastical  edifice  in  the  western  hemisphere.  It  is 
of  mixed  Gothic  and  Indian  architecture,  and  is  on  the 
site  of  the  chief  temple  of  the  Aztecs.  The  walls  are 
gorgeously  decorated,  and  the  high -altar  is  a  marvel  of 
magnificence.  The  dress  on  the  statue  of  the  Virgin 
is  incrusted  with  gems,  the  diamonds  alone  being  worth 
$3,000,000,  it  is  claimed.  The  cathedral  is  on  one  side 
of  the  Grand  Plaza,  the  other  sides  being  occupied  by 
the  National  Palace,  comprising  the  government  offices, 
mint  and  prison,  the  National  Museum,  in  which  the 
great  Aztec  Block  of  carved  granite  is  shown,  upon 
which  were  sacrificed,  it  is  said,  10,000  persons  in  one 
year,  and  the  Market  Place.  The  Academy  of  Arts  and 
Mining,  the  University  of  Mexico,  the  Public  Library, 
containing  105,000  volumes,  and  the  National  Theatre, 


—  119  — 

as  well  as  numerous  convents  and  churches  are  well 
worth  visiting.  The  Government's  Pawnbroker  shop  is 
a  very  useful  and  noteworthy  institution. 

Objects  of  great  interest  are  found  in  the  Botanical 
garden  and  the  2  aqueducts.  The  city  is  noted  indust 
rially  for  its  manufacture  of  gold  and  silver  lace,  and 
of  silversmiths'  work. 

Riding  horse-back  is  one  of  the  great  amusements, 
and  a  ride  along  the  canal,  or  over  the  hills  to  any  of 
the  adjacent  villages  is  found  very  interesting. 

Music  is  found  in  all  the  parks  every  afternoon  and 
3  times  in  the  week  also  in  the  evenings. 

Besides  the  many  places  of  special  note  in  the  city, 
there  are  several  interesting  points  within  2  or  3  miles 
distance. 

At  a  distance  of  2  miles  is  the  old  historic  Castle  oi 
Chapultepec,  which  has,  at  different  times,  been  the 
palatial  residence  of  the  Emperors  Iturbide  and  Maxi 
milian.  The  grand  view  from  the  tower  of  this  old 
castle  is  unexcelled.  The  castle  is  surrounded  by  a 
dense  park  of  ancient  and  immense  trees,  all  draped  in 
heavy  moss.  One  mile  from  Chapultepec  is  Tacubaya, 
where  are  located  some  palatial  country  seats. 

Other  excursions  were  made  to  the  volcano  of  Popo- 
catapetl,  17,800  feet  high,  which  is  always  covered 
with  snow,  and  which  produces  large  amounts  of  very 
fine  sulphur ;  also  to  the  extensive  silver  mines  of  Real 
del  Monte  and  to  the  cities  of  Puebla  and  Jalapa,  the 
former,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Jalapa,  with  78,000 
inhabitants,  numerous  fine  church  and  convent  edifices 


—  120  — 

and  fortifications  and  the  ancient  Pyramid  in  its 
vicinity. 

Passing  Meca-Meca  on  the  journey  to  Morelia,  the 
capital  of  Michoacan  with  25,000  inhabitants  and  some 
commerce,  the  sacred  mountain  of  the  Aztecs  comes  in 
view. 

During  my  stay  in  the  city  of  Mexico  I  was  also  favored 
with  the  kindness  of  the  Minister  Senor  Romero  Rubio 
of  the  Cabinet  of  President  Gonzales,  having  previously 
been  introduced  to  the  then  Ex-President  of  Mexico, 
Senor  Porfirio  Diaz,  by  the  late  Ex-President  of  the 
United  States,  General  Grant,  at  a  banquet  given  in 
honor  of  these  two  gentlemen  by  the  Mayor  of  the  city 
of  New  Orleans. 

My  last  trip  to  the  coast  was  performed  from 
Michoacan  to  Manzanillo,  where  I  procured  passage  on 
one  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company's  steamers 
for  San  Fransisco. 

The  Mexican  Republic  forms  the  southwestern 
boundary  of  the  United  States  and  has  an  area  of  743,948 
square  miles,  northern  frontier,  1,400  miles,  southern 
frontier,  345  miles;  sea  coast,  6,086  miles.  Number 
of  States,  27;  Federal  District,  1;  Territories,  2; 
Population  about  11,000,000.  The  chief  exports  are: 
Coffee,  fruit,  Brazil  wood,  silver  ore,  cattle  hides  and 
silver  and  gold  bullion  and  silver  coin. 

The  prominent  agricultural  products  are:  Cotton, 
Pulque  (the  juice  of  the  Agave  Magay,  an  Aloes),  the 
national  beverage  of  the  Mexicans,  Sugar,  Wheat  and 
Corn. 


—  121  — 

The  mountains  contain  precious  metals,  but  little 
attention  is  paid  to  the  exploration  of  the  bowels  of  the 
earth. 

Other  statistics  I  could  not  obtain. 

I  arrived  in  San  Francisco  just  in  time  to  witness 
the  splendid  procession  of  the  North  American  Knights 
of  Templars,  who  were  assembled  there  in  convention. 

Here  I  received  the  much  welcomed  invitation  to 
join  the  historic  "  Henry  Villard"  party  en  route  for 
the  far  u  Northwest.'"7 

I  omit  to  specify  the  details  of  this  journey,  since 
they  had  been  minutely  described  by  almost  all  the 
leading  newspapers  on  the  continent,  and  continue  to 
relate  my  experiences  in  the  distant  Northwest  in  the 
usual  way.  After  a  60  hours  sea  voyage,  I  arrived  in 
Portland,  Oregon,  staying  there  only  a  very  short  time 
and,  with  many  of  the  invited  guests,  boarded  the  train 
of  the  new  constructed  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  for 
Deer  Lodge,  not  far  from  Garrison,  Montana,  to  witness 
the  formal  opening  of  this  extensive  line  and  to  return 
to  Portland,  where  the  festivities  took  their  brilliant 
course. 

Portland  is  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  Pacific 
Northwest,  and  is  situated  on  the  Wilamette  river,  12 
miles  above  its  confluence  with  the  Columbia.  Popu 
lation,  40,000. 

The  city  is  handsome  and  has  many  fine  public 
and  private  buildings. 

There  are  many  manufacturing  establishments,  and 
from  every  direction  in  the  Pacific  Northwest,  railroads 


—  122  — 

lead  to  Portland,  making  the  city  the  grand  terminus 
of  a  system  which  will  completely  develop  the  entire 
region.  It  lies  in  the  heart  of  a  great  producing  coun 
try,  which  has  no  other  outlet,  and  for  which  it  must 
serve  as  a  receiver  and  distributor  of  exports  and  im 
ports. 

On  my  extravaganzas  I  visited  Dalles,  the  second 
important  city  in  Oregon,  though  only  4,000  inhabit 
ants  containing,  a  very  lively  place,  with  many  manu 
factures.  The  water  works  are  worth  visiting. 

Salem,  the  capital  of  the  State,  with  only  3,000 
population,  is  surrounded  by  a  fertile  prairie  and  situ 
ated  on  the  Willamette  river. 

The  Willamette  University,  the  State  institutions 
for  the  blind,  the  deaf  and  dumb,  and  the  State  Pen 
itentiary  are  here  located. 

Tacoma,  situated  on  Commencement  Bay  (Puget 
Sound,  Washington  Territory),  has  many  fine  build 
ings,  public  and  private,  and  is  the  center  of  large 
trade  and  manufacturing  interests,  as  well  as  of  an  im 
portant  mining  country. 

This  place  is  the  N.  terminus  of  the  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad  on  Puget  Sound,  as  well  as  of  the 
Cascade  Division  leading  to  valuable  coal  fields. 
Pacific  mail  steamships  come  up  to  the  wharves. 

Washington  Territory  is  traversed  by  the  Cascade 
and  Coast  Mountains,  some  of  the  peaks  very  high. 
The  highest  among  these  is  the  Mount  Ranier,  14,444 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  belonging  to  the 
Cascade  Mountains. 


—  123  — 

Seattle  on  the  Puget  Sound,  situated  on  Elliot 
Bay,  is  a  very  busy  place,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  uni 
versity. 

Port  Townsend,  W.  of  Townsend  Bay,  is  the  Port 
of  entry  of  the  Puget  Sound  custom  district. 

After  visiting  Victoria,  the  capital  of  British  Co 
lumbia,  situated  in  the  southeastern  part  of  Vancouver 
Island,  on  Victoria  Harbor,  immediately  off  the  Strait 
of  San  Juan  de  Fuca,  with  7,500  inhabitants,  a  large 
number  of  extensive  mercantile  houses,  manufacturing 
establishments,  several  educational  arid  religious  insti 
tutions,  and  a  garrison  of  British  soldiers,  I  also  pro 
ceeded  to  Esquimault,  3  miles  from  Victoria,  where 
the  headquarters  of  the  English  Pacific  Squadron  is, 
and  where  there  is  usually  a  fleet  of  from  3  to  5  ships, 
thus  concluding  my  journeys  in  the  far  Northwest. 

In  Portland,  where  I  was  very  well  received,  and 
where  several  compatriots  of  distinction  had  honored 
me  with  their  acquaintance,  I  stayed  about  long  enough 
to  get  familiar  with  the  different  circumstances  con 
cerning  the  State,  etc. 

Oregon,  whose  name  derives  from  the  Spanish  word 
signifying,  "  Wild  Thyme/'  on  account  of  the  abund 
ance  of  the  herb  found  by  early  explorers,  was  dis 
covered  by  Captain  Gray,  of  Boston,  1792.  Fur 
Company's  trading  post  at  Astoria,  1811  ;  organized 
as  a  Territory,  1848  ;  admitted,  1859. 

Area:  69,030  square  miles  ;  average  length,  360 
miles ;  breadth,  260  miles ;  coast  line,  300  miles ; 
Columbia  river  frontage,  300  miles. 


—  124  — 

Temperature  at  Portland :  winter,  38°  to  46° ; 
summer,  62°  to  68°. 

Rainfall  at  Dalles,  22  inches,  and  at  Fort  Hoskins, 
67  inches. 

Portland,  Astoria  and  Coos  Bay  are  ports  of  entry. 

Number  of  farms,  16,217  j  about  25  million  acres 
arable  land,  and  same  of  grazing  land  ;  forest,  1 0 
million  acres.  Average  value  per  acre,  cleared  land, 
$21.71  ;  woodland,  $4.50. 

Wheat  the  staple  ;  noted  for  superiority  of  its 
flour. 

Cattle  raising  ranks  second  only  to  agriculture; 
wool  is  of  fine  quality.  Extremely  rich  in  minerals ; 
gold  found  in  Jackson,  Josephine,  Baker  and  Grant 
counties;  copper  in  Josephine,  Douglas  and  Jackson 
counties ;  iron-ore  throughout  the  State ;  coal  along 
Coast  Range.  Principal  exports  are  wheat,  flour,  lum 
ber  and  canned  salmon.  Over  10  million  feet  of  lum 
ber  cut  annually. 

Population,  174,768,  including  487  negroes,  9,510 
Chinese  and  1,694  Indians. 

U.  S.  Army  and  Chinese  excluded  from  voting. 

Number  of  colleges,  7  ;  school  population,  65,216  ; 
school  age,  4-20. 

Resuming  my  journey  on  the  Northern  Pacific 
R.R.,  I  arrived  at  Helena,  the  capital  of  the  Territory  of 
Montana,  with  a  population  of  8,000,  where  all  routes  of 
transportation  converge.  The  public  buildings  and 
private  residences  are  of  a  character  to  attract  the  eye 
of  the  stranger.  The  city  is  the  center  of  important 


—  125  — 

manufacturing  interests,  as  well  as  of  trade  and  com 
merce.  Helena  is  situated  in  the  very  heart  of  a  min 
eral  region,  unsurpassed  either  in  Montana  or  else 
where  for  the  number  and  richness  of  its  gold  and 
silver  bearing  lodes,  there  being  within  25  miles  over 
3,000  quartz  lodes  which  have  been  claimed.  The 
Drum-Lummon  mine  has  recently  been  sold  for  1J 
million  dollars.  Besides  the  gold  and  silver  lodes, 
veins  of  galena,  copper  and  iron  are  found  in  great 
numbers.  Among  the  attractions  of  Helena  are  the 
noted  Hot  Springs,  situated  in  a  romantic  glen,  4  miles 
W.  of  the  town.  The  temperature  of  the  water  varies 
from  110°  to  190°  F.  Eighteen  miles  N.  of  Helena  is 
the  great  mountain-gate  through  which  the  waters  of 
the  Missouri  plunge  between  walls  300  ft.  wride  and 
1,000  ft.  high.  There  are  many  cataracts,  cascades, 
etc.,  around  Helena,  and  it  is  almost  impossible  to  de 
scribe  them. 

Revisiting  Garrison,  the  northern  terminus  of  the 
Utah  and  Northern  Branch  of  the  Union  Pacific  Rail 
road,  thence  passing  through  the  Deer  Lodge  Valley, 
which  spreads  for  a  distance  of  60  miles  and  a  width 
of  from  5  to  10  miles,  and  where  there  are  found  lofty 
peaks,  beautiful  mountain  lakes,  glittering  cascades, 
mineral  springs,  and  the  Great  Geyser  Cone,  which 
gives  name  to  the  river  and  valley,  the  road  leads  to 
Deer  Lodge,  a  small  place,  with  1,500  inhabitants,  11 
miles  south  from  Garrison,  and  Butte  City,  52  miles  S. 
E.  from  Deer  Lodge,  with  9,000  inhabitants,  both  im 
portant  mining  centers  on  the  Utah  and  Northern  Railroad. 


—  126  — 

Missoula,  a  small  but  enterprising  town,  near  the 
junction  of  the  Hell  Gate  and  Bitter  Root  rivers,  has  a 
noble  outlook  from  the  broad,  high  plateau.  Bitter 
Root  Valley  is  very  picturesque,  and  the  military  post 
of  Fort  Missoula  is  4  miles  S.  Following  the  Jocko 
river,  the  road  traverses  the  Flathead  Reservation. 
Here  is  Flathead  Lake,  wherein  the  Pend  d'Oreille 
river  takes  its  rise  and  winds  for  hundreds  of  miles 
through  deep  gorges  and  beautiful  valleys,  before  dis 
charging  its  waters  into  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille.  About 
40  miles  from  Flathead  Lake,  near  St.  Ignatius's  Mis 
sion,  are  the  Two  Sisters  cascades,  of  great  beauty, 
which  leap  down  from  opposite  walls  of  a  great  amphi 
theater,  scooped  out  of  the  mountains,  a  sheer  fall  of 
2,000  ft.  They  unite  after  their  descent,  and  pass  on 
as  a  single  stream.  The  railroad  now  follows  the 
charming  valley  of  Clark's  Fork  of  the  Columbia 
river. 

Heron  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Idaho  and  Rocky 
Mountain  Division,  and  there  are  railroad  shops  at  this 
point.  The  road  skirts  Clark's  Fork  of  the  Columbia 
till  it  reaches  the  large  opening  in  the  river  45  miles 
long  and  from  3  to  15  miles  in  width,  known  as  Lake 
Pend  d'Oreille,  whose  beauty  has  made  it  notable.  At 
Sand  Point  the  road  crosses  one  end  of  the  lake. 

Rathdrum,  in  Idaho,  is  a  small  town,  which  has  re 
cently  come  into  notice  as  the  main  point  of  approach 
to  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mines  in  the  Coeur  d'Alene  moun 
tains.  Some  extraordinarily  rich  " Finds"  are  said  to 
have  been  made. 


—  127  — 

Other  excursions  in  the  Territory  brought  me  to 
Lewiston,  Mount  Idaho,  Farmington  and  Louisville, 
small  places  with  nothing  of  interest,  and  from  here  I 
returned  to  Butte  City,  where  I  expected  to  get  all  in 
formation  regarding  this  Territory. 

Idaho  had  already  a  white  population  previous  to 
1850,  mainly  trappers,  prospectors  and  missionaries  ; 
the  permanent  settlement  hegan  with  the  discovery  of 
gold  in  1860  ;  organized  as  a  Territory,  1863. 

Area :  84,800  square  miles,  length  in  W.,  485 
miles,  and  on  Wyoming  boundary,  140  miles  ;  width, 
45  miles  in  N.  and  nearly  300  miles  in  S.  Drainage 
mainly  by  Salmon  and  Snake  rivers  and  their  tribu 
taries. 

Temperature  at  Boise  City  :  winter,  30°  to  40°  ; 
summer,  68°  to  75°. 

Florence  and  Silver  City  are  flourishing  mining 
towns. 

Extreme  north  well  timbered  and  much  fertile 
land  ;  extreme  southeast  populated  almost  entirely  by 
Mormons,  chiefly  farmers. 

Cash  value  per  acre  of  corn  in  1883,  $18;  wheat, 
$13.77;  rye,  $11.79;  oats,  $21.31;  barley,  $21.30; 
potatoes,  $73.44  ;  hay,  $10.40. 

Most  of  the  gold  is  found  in  Idaho,  Boise  and  Al- 
turas  Counties.  Silver  in  Owyhee  County,  some  of 
the  mines  being  very  rich.  Coal  in  the  vicinity  of 
Boise  City. 

Manufactures,  chiefly  production  of  flour  and  lum 
ber  and  smelting  of  ores. 


—  128  — 

Population,  32,610,  inclusive  53  colored,  3,379 
Chinese,  and  165  Indians. 

School  population,  9,650  ;  school  age,  5  to  21. 

Starting  per  Utah  Northern  Railroad,  Ogden,  in 
the  Territory  of  Utah,  was  reached.  This  is  a  flour 
ishing  city  of  6,000  inhabitants,  and  situated  on  a  high 
mountain  environed  plateau.  It  is  remarkably  well 
built,  and  contains  many  fine  buildings,  among  which 
is  the  Mormon  Tabernacle. 

Ogden  is  the  junction  between  the  Union  Pacific 
and  Central  Pacific  Railways,  and  of  the  Utah  Cen 
tral  R.  R.,  which  extends  to  Salt  Lake  City  and  the 
Utah  and  Northern  Division  of  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R. 
The  machine  and  repair  shops  of  the  Central  Pacific 
R.  R.  are  located  here. 

Its  streets  are  broad,  with  running  streams  of  water 
in  nearly  all  of  them. 

The  country  between  Ogden  and  Salt  Lake  City  is 
thickly  settled,  several  Mormon  villages  have  to  be 
passed,  with  nothing  particularly  characteristic,  except 
the  co-operative  stores,  with  an  open  eye  and  the 
legend,  u  Holiness  to  the  Lord,"  printed  over  the  door 
ways. 

Salt  Lake  City,  the  capital  of  Utah  Territory,  is 
situated  at  the  W.  base  of  a  spur  of  the  Wahsatch 
Mountains,  about  12  miles  from  the  S.  E.  extremity  of 
the  Great  Salt  Lake.  It  lies  in  a  great  valley,  ex 
tending  close  up  to  the  base  of  the  mountains  5  the  gray 
and  rugged  mountain  peaks,  covered  with  perpetual 
snow,  rising  in  the  distance.  The  streets  of  the  city 


—  129  — 

are  128  feet  wide.  Shade  trees  and  ditches  filled  with 
running  water  line  both  sides  of  every  street.  The 
dwellings  and  business  structures  are  built  principally 
of  sun-dried  bricks  (adobe),  but  the  newly  built  are  of  a 
modern  pattern.  The  Great  Tabernacle,  of  wood,  ex 
cept  the  46  sandstone  pillars  supporting  the  immense 
dome-like  roof,  is  oval  in  shape,  inside  and  out,  and 
will  seat  15,000  persons,  its  organ  is  one  of  the 
largest  in  America. 

The  Temple,  E.  of  the  Tabernacle,  in  the  course 
©f  erection  when  I  was  there,  was  estimated  to  cost  10 
millions  of  dollars.  Brigham's  Block,  enclosed  by  a 
high  stone  wall,  contains  the  Tithing  House,  the  Bee 
hive  House  and  the  Lion  House,  the  Assembly  Eooms, 
the  office  of  the  Mormon  newspaper,  and  various  other 
offices,  shops,  dwellings,  etc.  Here  was  the  residence 
of  the  late  Brigham  Young,  and  18  or  20  of  his  wives 
lived  in  the  Beehive  and  the  Lion  House.  The  hand 
some  house,  nearly  opposite,  supposed  to  belong  to  the 
prophet's  favorite  wife,  and  formerly  known  as 
Amelia  Palace,  is  now  known  as  the  Gardo  House. 

In  the  Museum  may  be  seen  specimen  ores  from 
the  mines,  Indian  relics,  various  products  of  Mormon 
industry  and  other  curiosos. 

Among  the  educational  institutions  are  the  Desert 
University,  Hammond  Hall,  Collegiate  Institute  and 
St.  Mary's  Academy. 

Fort  Douglas,  2  miles  E.  of  the  city,  overlooking 
the  same,  is  garrisoned  by  a  full  regiment. 

The  Great  Salt  Lake  is  reached  via  Utah  &  Nevada 

9 


—  130  — 

R.  K.  to  Lake  Point,  and  is  one  of  the  greatest  natural 
curiosities  of  the  West.  It  is  75  miles  long  and  about 
30  broad,  is  4,200  feet  above  the  sea,  and  contains  six 
islands,  of  which  Church  Island  is  the  largest.  Several 
rivers  flow  into  it,  but  it  has  no  outlet.  The  water  is 
shallow,  the  depth  in  many  extensive  parts  being  not 
more  than  two  or  three  feet.  Its  water  is  transparent, 
but  exceedingly  salty  and  very  buoyant  5  a  man  may 
float  in  it  at  full  length  upon  his  back,  having  his  head 
and  neck,  his  legs  to  the  knee,  and  both  arms  to  the 
elbow  entirely  out  of  the  water.  If  he  assumes  a  sitting 
posture,  with  the  arms  extended,  his  shoulders  will  rise 
above  the  water.  Swimming,  however,  is  difficult 
from  the  tendency  of  the  lower  extremeties  to  rise 
above  the  surface,  and  the  brine  is  so  strong  that  it 
cannot  be  swallowed  without  danger  of  strangulation, 
while  a  particle  of  it  in  the  eye  causes  intense  pain.  A 
bath  in  it  is  refreshing  and  invigorating,  though  the 
body  requires  to  be  washed  afterward  in  fresh 
water. 

The  Ontario  mine,  near  Park  City,  and  the  Horn 
silver  mine  near  Frisco,  with  smelting  works  of  great 
dimensions,  are  noteworthy. 

In    the    following,   the    reproductions     of  authentic 
statistic  tables  are  given. 

Utah  was  settled  by  Mormons  under  the  leader 
ship  of  Brigham  Young,  at  Salt  Lake,  1847,  and  the 
Territorial  government  formed  in  1850. 

Area,  84,900  square  miles  ;  average  length,  350 
miles  5  breadth,  260  miles.  Largest  rivers;  Grand  and 


—  131  — 

Green,  together  with  the  Colorado,  which  they  unite  to 
form. 

Temperature  at  Salt  Lake  City:  winter,  29°  to  40°; 
summer,  69°  to  77°;  rainfall,  24  inches. 

Number  of  farms,  9,452 ;  land  under  cultivation,  over 
400,000  acres;  value  of  farm  products,  $10,000,000. 
Valleys  of  the  Cache,  Salt  Lake,  Jordan,  Sevier  and 
Rio  Virgin  are  irrigable,  and  produce  fine  crops  of  ce 
reals  and  vegetables,  Annual  income  from  stock  rais 
ing,  about  $2,000,000,  though  grazing  interest  not  so 
important  as  in  neighboring  States  and  Territories. 

Gold,  copper  and  silver  found  in  Wahsatch  Moun 
tains,  the  metal  found  being  mostly  silver.  Gold  pro 
duction  in  1882,  $190,000;  silver,  $6,800,000. 

Principal  source  of  coal  supply,  in  the  valley  of 
Weber  river. 

Ranks  third  in  silver. 

Population,  including  232  negroes,  501  Chinese  and 
807  Indians,  143,963. 

School  population,  43,303;  school  age  6  to  18; 
number  of  colleges,  1. 

Twenty-five  miles  from  Ogden  is  Corinne,  the 
largest  Gentile  town  in  Utah,  having  a  large  trade 
with  the  mining  regions  of  eastern  Idaho  and  Montana. 
Beyond  Corinne  the  train  winds  among  the  Promontory 
Mountains,  and  skirts  the  N.  shore  of  the  Great  Salt 
Lake,  while  the  Mormon  city  lies  near  the  S.  end  of  it. 
Promontory  Point  is  interesting  as  the  spot  where  the 
two  companies  building  the  Pacific  Railroad  joined 
their  tracks  on  May  10,  1869. 


—  132  — 

The  last  tie  was  made  of  California  laurel  trimmed 
with  silver,  and  the  last  four  spikes  were  of  solid  silver 
and  gold.  Beyond  this  the  road  enters  upon  an  ex 
tended  plateau,  about  60  miles  long  and  of  the  same 
width,  known  as  the  Great  American  Desert.  Its 
whole  surface  is  covered  with  a  sapless  weed  five  or 
six  inches  high,  and  never  grows  any  green  thing  that 
could  sustain  animal  life.  The  only  living  things  found 
upon  it  are  lizards  and  jackass-rabbits,  and  the  only 
landscape  feature  is  dry,  brown  and  bare  moun 
tains.  The  earth  is  alkaline  and  fine,  and  is  whirled 
up  by  the  least  wind  in  blinding  clouds  of  dust.  Rivers 
disappear  in  it,  and  it  yields  no  other  vegetation  than 
the  pallid  Artemesia,  or  sage-brush. 

At  Humboldt  Wells,  farther  on  the  road,  are  30 
springs  in  a  low  basin,  some  of  which  have  been 
sounded  to  a  depth  of  1,700  feet  without  revealing  a 
bottom,  and  it  is  supposed  that  the  whole  series  form 
the  outlets  of  a  subterranean  lake. 

In  a  distance  of  57  miles  is  Elko,  with  the  State 
University  of  the  State  of  Nevada,  founded  in  1875, 
and  1,200  inhabitants.  Several  important  mining  dis 
tricts  are  tributary  to  Elko,  and  secure  it  a  large  trade. 
Winnemucca  is  another  prosperous  town  with  a  large 
mining  trade,  141  miles  from  Elko,  and  Humboldt, 
still  farther  on,  affords  a  grateful  if  momemtary  relief 
to  the  now  wearied  eye  of  the  traveler.  The  desert 
extends  from  Humboldt  in  every  direction,  a  pallid, 
lifeless  waste,  that  gives  emphasis  to  the  word  desola 
tion;  mountains  break  the  level,  and  from  the  foot 


—  133  — 

to  the  crest  they  are  devoid  of  vegetation  or  other 
color  than  a  maroon  or  leaden  gray;  the  earth  is  loose 
and  sandy ;  but  here  at  Humboldt,  irrigation  compelled 
the  soil  to  yield  flowers,  grass,  fruit  and  shrubbery. 

At  Wadsworth  the  ascent  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  is 
begun.  The  wearying  sight  of  plains  covered  with 
alkali  and  sage-brush  is  exchanged  for  picturesque 
views  of  mountain  slopes  adorned  with  branching  pine 
trees,  and  diversified  with  foaming  torrents. 

The  ascent  soon  becomes  so  steep  that  two  locomo 
tives  are  required  to  draw  the  train.  At  short  inter 
vals  there  are  strong  wooden  snow-sheds,  erected  to 
guard  the  line  against  destruction  by  snow-slides.  These 
sheds,  which  are  very  much  like  tunnels,  interrupt  the 
view  of  some  of  the  most  romantic  scenery  on  the 
line. 

Reno,  a  busy  town  of  4,000  inhabitants,  is  situated 
on  the  Truckee  river  about  five  miles  from  the  base  of 
the  Sierra.  It  has  an  immense  trade  with  the  mining 
districts,  is  in  the  heart  of  an  agricultural  and  grazing 
valley,  and  contains  the  grounds  of  the  State  Agricul 
tural  Society,  a  Young  ladies'  seminary  and  several 
factories. 

From  Reno  the  Virginia  and  Truckee  R.  R.  runs 
to  Carson  and  Virginia  City,  in  the  great  Nevada  min 
ing  region.  Carson  is  the  capital  of  Nevada  and  is 
a  thriving  city  of  4,500  inhabitants,  containing  the 
Capitol,  the  U.  S.  Mint  and  fine  residences. 

In  the  court-yard  of  the  prison  are  shown  footprints 
of  human  beings,  birds  and  other  animals  on  the  sand- 


—  134  — 

stones  (supposed  to  belong  to  the  geological  tertiary 
period). 

From  Carson  15  miles  distant,  and  reached  by 
stage,  is  the  lovely  Lake  Tahoe,  35  miles  long  and  15 
miles  wide,  6,000  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  surrounded  by 
snow-capped  mountain  peaks,  with  marvellously  clear 
water,  whose  depth  has  been  sounded  to  1,600  ft. 

21  miles  beyond  Carson  is  Virginia  City,  com 
pletely  environed  by  mountains,  and  containing  3,000 
inhabitants,  about  one-fifth  of  whom  are  usually  under 
ground.  What  is  more  surprising  to  the  stranger  is 
the  proportions  of  the  constant  rushing  crowd  on  the 
principal  thoroughfare,  and  the  cosmopolitan  character 
of  its  elements.  Piute  and  Washoe  Indians,  in  pic 
turesque  rags,  Chinamen  in  blue  and  black  blouses, 
brawny  Cornishmen,  vehement  Mexicans  and  many 
other  people  from  far  apart  countries,  mingle  and  surge 
along  in  the  stream.  Virginia  City  stands  directly 
over  the  famous  Comstock  lode,  and  near  by  are  the 
celebrated  Big  Bonanza  mines,  said  to  have  been  a 
few  years  ago  the  richest  in  the  world.  There  are 
many  more  mines  in  the  vicinity. 

By  stage  from  the  Lake  to  Tahoe  City,  across  the 
Lake,  and  thence  to  Truckee,  the  first  important  station 
in  California,  perched  high  up  amid  the  Sierras,  is 
reached. 

Nevada,  "  The  Sage  Hen  State,"  whose  name 
derives  from  the  Spanish,  signifying  "  Snow  Covered," 
had  its  first  white  settlements  in  Washoe  and  Carson 
Valleys,  1848;  organized  as  a  Territory  from  Utah, 


—  135  — 

1861;  admitted,  1864.  Area,  110,700  square  miles; 
extreme  length,  485  miles,  length  western  boundary, 
210  miles;  extreme  breadth,  310  miles.  Humboldt  is 
the  longest  river,  its  valley  extending  east  and  west, 
determined  course  of  Central  Pacific. 

Temperature  at  Winnemucca,  winter,  30°  to  38°, 
summer,  66°  to  73°. 

Waters  of  rivers  usually  fresh  and  abound  in  fish. 
Number  of  farms,  1,404,  many  valleys  easily  cultivated, 
and  crop  yield  good.  Mineral  resources  of  enormous 
value.  Comstock  lode,  already  mentioned,  supposed  to 
be  the  richest  silver  mine  in  the  world ;  Eureka,  one  of 
the  most  productive.  Amount  of  gold  produced  in 
1882,  $2,000,000;  silver,  $6,750,000.  Eich  lead  and 
copper  ores;  also  zinc,  platinum,  tin  and  nickel  have 
been  found.  Extensive  deposits  of  borax  in  Churchill 
and  Esmeralda  counties. 

Ranks  second  in  gold  and  fourth  in  silver.  Popu 
lation,  62,266,  including  488  Colored,  5,416  Chinese  and 
2,803  Indians. 

Number  of  Colleges,  1;  school  population,  10,483; 
school  age,  6  to  18. 

From  Truckee,  an  excursion  was  made  to  Donner 
Lake,  embosomed  in  the  lap  of  towering  hills  and  to 
Summit,  situated  on  the  line.  Summit  is  the  highest 
point  on  the  Central  Pacific  road,  7,042  ft.,  and  the 
scenery  is  indescribably  beautiful  and  impressive. 
From  Summit  to  Sacramento  is  a  distance  of  106  miles, 
and  between  these  places  the  descent  from  that  height 
to  56  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea  has  to  be  made. 


—  136  — 

Cape  Horn  and  Colfax  passed,  and  the  train  runs 
right  through  to  the  capital  of  California,  Sacramento, 
the  third  city  of  the  State  in  size,  having  a  population 
of  over  23,000,  and  second  in  commercial  importance. 
It  is  built  on  an  extensive  plain  on  the  E.  bank  of  the 
Sacramento  river,  immediately  S.  of  the  mouth  of  the 
American  river. 

The  city  is  very  attractive,  and  of  important  public 
buildings  there  is  only  the  State  Capitol,  one  of  the  finest 
structures  in  the  United  States.  The  State  Library  in 
the  capitol  has  over  35,000  volumes  and  the  Sacramento 
Library  about  15,000.  The  State  Agricultural  Society 
has  a  commodious  and  one  of  the  finest  race  courses  in 
the  world.  The  Crocker  Art  Gallery  is  noteworthy, 
and  is  a  present  of  the  wife  of  Mr.  S.  B.  Crocker. 
The  through  train  from  here  to  San  Francisco  pursues 
a  very  pleasant  route,  being  for  the  most  part  through 
the  valleys  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin. 
Benicia,  57  miles  from  Sacramento,  situated  on  the  N. 
side  of  the  Straits  of  Carquinez,  contains  the  large 
depot  and  machine  shops  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Co.,  the  United  States  Arsenal,  and  several  noted 
educational  institutions. 

The  train  crosses  the  Straits  on  a  mammoth  ferry 
boat,  and  in  27  miles  reaches  Oakland,  a  beautiful  city 
of  35,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  E.  shore  of  San 
Francisco  Bay,  nearly  opposite  San  Francisco,  of  which 
it  is  practically  a  suburb.  Oakland  is  luxuriantly 
shaded,  is  remarkably  well  built,  and  has  a  delightful 
climate,  At  Berkeley,  4  miles  N.,  is  the  State  Univer- 


—  137  — 

sity,  which  is  open  to  both  sexes,  and  whose  tuition  is 
free.  At  Oakland  Point,  where  the  railroad  pier  of  the 
Company  extends  2J  miles  into  the  Bay,  the  ferry-boat 
conveys  the  traveler  to  San  Francisco,  3  miles  distant. 

As  I  intended  to  return  to  San  Francisco,  I  only 
stayed  there'  a  very  short  time  and  procured  passage 
for  Hawai  (Sandwich  Islands),  a  regular  line  of  steamers 
run  between  San  Francisco  and  Honolulu.  Honolulu, 
the  capital  of  the  Kingdom  of  Hawai,  is  situated  on 
the  island  of  Oahu,  one  of  the  group  of  the  fifteen 
islands  of  which  this  Kingdom  of  Oceania  consists. 

Population,  about  7,000,  and  with  the  exception  of 
the  botanical  garden,  laid  out  by  the  well  known 
botanist  Hildebrandt,  and  the  Hospital  for  persons 
afflicted  with  Leprosy,  situated  in  the  suburb,  Kakuato, 
has  no  other  attractive  points,  but  the  excursions  to  the 
great  volcanos  are  worth  making.  On  one  of  these 
explorations  I  ascended  the  volcano  Mauna-loa,  erupt 
ing  only  every  5  or  6  years,  but  having  for  a  neighbor 
the  Kila-uea,  4,000  ft.  high  and  in  constant  activity. 
The  Mauna-loa  is  one  of  the  highest  valcanos. 

Within  the  radius  of  the  Kila-uea  are  two  burning 
lakes:  the  Plali-mau-mau  and  the  New  Lake. 

The  circumference  of  the  crater  of  this  volcano 
measures  3^  miles. 

Mauna-Kia  is  an  isolated  volcano  and  Hale-Kale, 
whose  crater  has  a  circumference  of  35  miles,  is  un 
doubtedly  the  greatest  crater  of  any  volcano  in  the 
world.  This  volcano  lies  on  the  island  of  Maui,  on 
which  there  is  the  most  extensive  sugar-plantation  of 


—  138  — 

the  Sandwich  Islands,  Spreckelville,  the  property  of 
the  well  known  Mr.  Spreckel  from  California,  and  where 
I  was  well  received. 

As  the  communication  between  these  islands  is 
very  difficult,  I  was  only  able  to  visit  4  of  the  inhabited 
islands  and  tried  to  get  every  possible  information  con 
cerning  them. 

My  explorations  lasted  fully  two  months,  and  I  was 
anxious  to  return  to  the  United  States  viz.  San  Fran 
cisco. 

Hawai,  a  Kingdom  of  Oceania,  consists  of  a  group 
of  15  islands  of  which  8  are  inhabited.  The  Govern 
ment  is  a  limited  monarchy. 

Hawai  is  the  largest  island. 

Area  of  the  islands,  6,667  square  miles. 

At  the  last  census,  the  population  numbered  57,985, 
viz.,  44,088  Natives,  5,916  Chinese,  4,651  white  people, 
of  whom  1,276  were  Americans,  883  English,  272  Ger 
mans,  436  Portuguese,  81  French,  and  half-cast  3,420. 

To  a  great  extent  the  islands  are  mountainous,  and 
there  are  numerous  volcanoes,  several  of  which  are 
active. 

The  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile  and  productive. 
Chief  products,  sugar  and  rice;  but  coffee,  hides,  bone, 
whale  oil  and  wool  -are  exported  in  considerable  quan 
tities.  Value  of  exports  in  1883,  $8,121,200;  imports, 
$5,624,240. 

The  islands  of  Hawai  and  Maui  are  provided  with 
telegraphs  and  have  about  32  miles  of  railway.  Al 
most  every  house  in  Honolulu  has  its  telephone. 


—  139  — 

There  are  numerous  schools  in  the  islands;  the  an 
nual  sum  devoted  to  public  instruction  is  $95,850. 
The  King  is  a  member  of  the  Church  of  England;  but 
all  forms  of  religion  are  permitted  and  protected. 

Landing  in  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  and  resting 
myself  from  the  tedious  travels  in  the  Sandwich  islands, 
I  proceeded  to  the  State  of  Missouri,  and  direct  to  its 
greatest  and  most  important  city,  St.  Louis. 

California  derives  its  name  from  the  Spanish  word, 
signifying,  "Hot  furnace." 

First  settlement  by  Spaniards  at  San  Diego,  1768, 
admitted  1850. 

Area,  158,360  square  miles,  the  second  largest 
State;  extreme  length,  770  miles;  extreme  breadth, 
330  miles  ;  least  breadth,  150  miles;  coast  line  over  700 
miles;  San  Francisco  Bay,  best  harbor  on  western  coast. 

Temperature  at  San  Francisco:  winter,  50°  to 
55°,  summer,  58°  to  69°,  Rainfall,  Sacramento,  20 
inches. 

San  Francisco,  metropolis  and  only  port  of  entry. 
Regular  line  of  steamers  to  Australia,  Panama,  Mexico, 
China  and  Japan. 

The  U.  S.  Navy  Yard  is  at  San  Pablo  Bay.  Num 
ber  of  farms,  35,934,  average  value  per  acre,  cleared 
land,  $27.16;  woodland,  $8.55. 

One  of  the  richest  agricultural  tracts  in  the  Union; 
rich  soil  and  favorable  climate,  often  insuring  two  crops 
per  year  on  same  field ;  wheat  the  most  valuable  crop. 
Ranks  very  high  as  a  fruit-growing  State;  fruits  of 
temperate  climates,  the  grape  region,  North. 


—  140  — 

Fine  sheep-raising  country,  Cashmere  goats  have 
been  introduced  and  are  doing  well. 

Kanks  first  in  barley,  grape  culture,  sheep,  gold 
and  quicksilver. 

Population,  864,694;  with  6,018  Negroes,  75,132 
Chinese,  86  Japanese,  and  16,277  Indians. 

Indians  and  Chinese  excluded  from  voting. 

School  population,  216,330;  school  age,  5-17. 

St.  Louis  is  situated  geographically  almost  in  the 
centre  of  the  great  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  or  basin  of 
the  continent,  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Mississippi  river, 
20  miles  below  the  entrance  of  the  Missouri,  about  175 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  and  1,170  miles 
above  New  Orleans,  in  lat.  38°  37'  N.  and  Ion.  90°  15' 
W.  It  is  built  on  three  terraces.  The  corporate 
limits  extend  11  miles  along  the  river  and  about  3 
miles  back  from  it,  embracing  an  area  of  nearly  21 
square  miles. 

In  1762  a  grant  was  made  by  the  Governor  General 
of  Louisiana,  then  a  French  province,  to  Pierre  Liguest 
Laclede  and  his  partners,  comprising  the  "Louisiana 
Fur  Company"  to  establish  trading-posts  on  the  Missis 
sippi;  and  on  February  15,  1764,  the  principal  one 
was  established  where  the  city  now  stands,  and  named 
St.  Louis.  In  1803  all  the  territory  then  known  as 
Louisiana  was  ceded  to  the  United  States.  In  1812 
that  portion  lying  N.  of  the  33d  degree  of  latitude  was 
organized  as  Missouri  Territory.  In  1822  St.  Louis 
was  incorporated  as  a  city.  The  first  census  was  taken 
in  1764,  and  the  population  was  then  120.  According 


—  141  — 

to  the  Census  of  1880  it  was  350,522.  The  commerce 
of  St.  Louis,  as  the  natural  commercial  entrepot  of  the 
vast  Mississippi  valley,  is  immense  ;  the  chief  articles 
of  receipt  and  shipment  being  breadstuffs,  live-stock, 
provisions,  cotton,  lead  (from  the  Missouri  mines),  hay, 
salt,  wool,  hides  and  pelts,  lumber,  tobacco,  and  gro 
ceries,  but  the  prosperity  of  the  city  is  chiefly  due  to 
its  manufactures. 

The  city  is  mostly  regularly  laid  out.  Fourth  and 
Olive  streets  contain  the  leading  stores  for  retailing, 
and  are  fashionable  promenades.  The  finest  building 
in  the  city  is  the  Court  House.  The  Four  Courts  with 
the  famous  jail,  semicircular  in  form  and  so  con 
structed  that  all  the  cells  are  under  the  observation  of 
one  single  jailer  at  once ;  the  New  Custom  House  with 
the  Post-Office,  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  the  Equita 
ble  Life  Insurance  Building,  the  U.  S.  Arsenal,  in  the 
extreme  S.  of  the  city  and  the  Masonic  Temple,  are  mag 
nificent  structures.  Of  churches,  the  Cathedral 
(Catholic),  Christ  Church,  the  First  Presbyterian 
Church,  the  Jewish  Temple,  and  the  Pilgrim  Congre 
gational  Church  are  the  prominent.  The  Mercantile 
Library  numbers  50,000  volumes,  and  contains  paint 
ings,  coins,  statuary  and  a  sculptured  slab  from  the 
ruins  of  Nineveh.  The  St.  Louis  University  (Jesuit), 
is  the  oldest  educational  institution  in  St.  Louis. 
Washington  University  embraces  all  the  ranges  of  uni 
versity  studies  except  theological.  Beside  these,  there 
are  a  great  many  educational  institutions,  public  and 
private,  and  a  number  of  charitable  asylums,  hospitals 


—  142  — 

and  such  like  institutions.  Adjoining  the  Tower  Grove 
Park,  embracing  277  acres  and  beautifully  laid  out  is 
Shaw's  Garden,  owned  by  Mr.  Henry  Shaw,  who  has 
opened  it  to  the  public  and  intends  it  as  a  gift  to  the 
city.  The  Garden  contains  1 09  acres  and  is  divided 
in  the  "  Herbaceous  and  Flower  Garden,"  the  "Fruti- 
cetum,"  and  the  "Arboretum/'  all  of  miraculous  beauty 
and  grandeur.  In  the  Fair  Grounds  of  the  St.  Louis 
Agricultural  and  Mechanical  Association  is  one  of  the 
best  zoological  gardens  in  America. 

The  Great  St.  Louis  Bridge  across  the  Mississippi, 
is  regarded  as  one  of  the  greatest  triumphs  of  American 
engineering.  The  bridge  is  built  in  two  stories,  passes 
over  a  viaduct  of  five  arches,  and  the  lower  roadway 
runs  into  a  tunnel,  4,800  ft.  long,  passing  under  a 
large  part  of  the  city.  The  total  cost  of  bridge  and 
tunnel  was  over  10  millions  of  dollars.  It  was 
designed  by  James  B.  Eads,  begun  in  1869,  and  com 
pleted  in  1874. 

The  City  Water- Works,  at  BisselFs  Point,  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  are  worth  seeing. 

Having  had  the  pleasure  to  meet  Professor  Potter, 
the  renowned  Geologist,  whom  I  had  previously  seen  in 
the  Mining  Academy  of  the  City  of  Mexico,  my  ex 
plorations  in  the  most  important  iron  regions,  coal 
mines  and  lime-stone  quarries  of  this  State  and  other 
adjoining  States  were  greatly  facilitated,  and  to  this 
gentleman  I  owe  my  success  in  obtaining  all  the  desired 
informations,  etc. 

The  next  place  visited  was  the  "Queen  City  of  the 


—  143  — 

West/7  Cincinnati,  the  chief  city  of  Ohio,  situated  on 
the  N.  bank  of  the  Ohio  river,  in  lat.  39°  6'  N.  and 
Ion.  84°  27'  W. 

Cincinnati  is  principally  built  upon  two  terraces, 
the  first  60  and  the  second  112  ft.  above  the  river. 
The  central  position  of  Cincinnatti  has  rendered  it  one 
of  the  most  important  commercial  places  of  the  West; 
but  manufactures  constitute  its  chief  interest.  Iron, 
furniture,  boots  and  shoes,  beer  and  whisky,  machinery 
and  steamboats,  are  leading  items  in  the  product;  but 
pork  packing  is  one  of  the  principal  industries. 

The  finest  building  in  the  city  is  the  New  U.  S. 
Government  Building,  and  the  Masonic  Temple,  the 
Exposition  Buildings  with  the  Music  Hall,  and  the 
Springer  Music  Hall,  seating  an  auditorium  of  5,000 
persons  and  containing  one  of  the  largest  organs  in  the 
world,  are  worth  being  visited.  The  Emery  Arcade  is 
said  to  be  one  of  the  finest  and  largest,  and  the  Tyler- 
Davidson  Fountain,  surrounded  by  groups  of  statuary, 
is  well  worth  seeing. 

Among  the  Churches,  the  Roman  Catholic  St. 
Peter's  Cathedral  in  pure  Grecian  style,  and  its  altar- 
piece  "St.  Peter  Delivered/7  by  Murillo,  one  of  the 
chief  glories  of  art  in  America,  and  the  Hebrew  Syna 
gogue,  opposite  the  Cathedral,  as  also  the  St.  Paul's 
Methodist  are  the  most  prominent. 

The  educational  and  charitable  institutions  of 
Cincinnati  are  numerous  and  important,  and  of  these 
the  University  of  Cincinnati,  the  School  of  Design,  the 
Law  and  Art  School,  St.  Xavier's  College  (Jesuit),  the 


—  144  — 

Cincinnati  Wesleyan  and  the  Union  Hebrew  College, 
the  Lane  Theological  Seminary,  the  Miami  Medical 
College  and  the  Medical  College  of  Ohio,  one  of  the 
most  famous  in  the  West,  the  Chickering  Classical  and 
Scientific  Institute,  the  Woodward  and  the  Hughes 
High  School,  the  Mechanics  Institute,  with  6,500 
volumes,  the  Cincinnati  Hospital  and  the  Longview 
Asylum  for  the  Insane,  are  the  most  noteworthy. 

More  than  a  third  of  the  residents  of  Cincinnati  are 
Germans  or  of  German  parentage.  The  greatest  part 
of  them  occupy  the  section  of  the  city  N.  of  the  Miami 
canal,  which  they  have  named  "The  Rhine." 

The  Great  Arbeiter  and  Turner  Halls  are  worth 
visiting. 

The  Suspension  Bridge  over  the  Ohio,  connecting 
the  city  with  Covington,  Kentucky,  is  the  pride  of 
Cincinnati.  From  tower  to  tower  it  is  1,057  ft.  long; 
the  entire  length  is  2,252  ft.  and  its  height  over  the 
water  100  ft. 

Well  worth  visiting  are  the  United  Rail  Roads 
Stock  Yards  and  the  Price  Hill,  the  Lookout  House, 
Mount  Auburn  from  whose  summits,  crowned  by  ex 
tensive  music  gardens,  splendid  views  of  the  city,  the 
river  and  the  surrounding  country  are  obtained. 

Leaving  Cincinnati  for  Louisville,  Kentucky,  by 
rail — the  other  route  is  on  the  river,  per  steamer — the 
city  of  Newport,  connected  with  Covington  by  a  bridge 
over  the  river  Licking,  and  containing  20,433  inhabi 
tants,  beautiful  gardens  and  imposing  shade-trees,  was 
first  visited,  and  afterwards  Covington. 


—  145  — 

Covington  is  a  city  of  29,720  inhabitants,  the  largest 
after  Louisville  and  substantially  a  suburb  of  Cincin 
nati,  whose  business-men  have  here  many  costly  resid 
ences.  Except  the  Free  Library,  some  educational 
institutions  and  the  catholic  St.  Elizabeth  Hospital, 
there  are  no  other  attractions  in  this  place. 

Louisville,  the  chief  city  of  Kentucky,  and  one  of 
the  most  important  in  the  country,  is  situated  at  the 
Falls  of  the  Ohio,  where  Beargrass  Creek  enters  that 
river.  Its  site  is  one  of  peculiar  excellence.  The 
Falls  are  quite  picturesque  and  can  be  seen  from  the 
town. 

The  first  settlement  of  Louisville  was  made  by  13 
families,  who  accompanied  Colonel  George  Rogers 
Clarke  on  his  expedition  down  the  Ohio  in  1778.  The 
town  was  established  in  1780,  and  called  Louisville  in 
honor  of  Louis  XVI.  of  France,  whose  troops  were  then 
aiding  the  Americans  in  their  struggle  for  independence. 
It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1 828,  when  its  popula 
tion  was  about  10,000.  In  1880  it  had  about  124,000. 
The  trade  of  Louisville  is  immense.  It  is  one  of  the 
largest  leaf-tobacco  markets  in  the  world,  the  sales  of 
this  one  article  amounting  to  over  $5,000,000  annually, 
and  it  is  rapidly  becoming  one  of  the  most  important 
markets  for  live-stock  in  the  country.  Pork-packing 
is  extensively  carried  on,  and  the  sugar  curing  of  hams 
is  a  special  feature  of  the  business.  The  annual  pro 
duction  of  iron  foots  up  $5,000,000.  Louisville  is  the 
great  distributing  market  for  the  fine  whiskies  made  in 

Kentucky.     The  manufacture  of  beer  has  also  become 

10 


—  146  — 

a  very  important  interest.  Leather,  cement,  agricul 
tural  implements,  furniture,  and  iron  pipes  for  water 
and  gas  mains,  are  the  other  leading  manufactures. 
The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and  has  well  paved  streets. 

The  Court  House,  City  Hall,  the  buildings  of  the 
Southern  Exposition  and  some  churches  and  colleges 
are  of  beautiful  architectonic  structures. 

The  Public  Library,  numbering  over  35,000  volumes 
and  connected  with  a  museum  and  the  natural-history 
department,  containing  also  the  celebrated  Troost  col 
lection  of  minerals,  one  of  the  largest  in  America,  are 
worth  visiting.  Louisville,  being  the  centre  of  one  of 
the  finest  fossiliferous  regions  in  the  world,  there  are 
numerous  private  collections,  containing  many  excellent 
specimens  elsewhere  rare. 

The  University  of  Louisville  is  a  flourishing  insti 
tution,  the  Kentucky  School  of  Medicine  and  Hospital 
College  of  Medicine,  and  the  two  High  Schools,  for 
males  and  females,  as  also  the  Colored  Normal  School 
are  prosperous  institutions  of  learning. 

The  State  Blind  School  and  many  other  charitable 
Homes  and  Hospitals  are  in  this  city. 

On  Cave  Hill  Cemetery  is  the  monument  of  George 
D.  Prentice,  the  poet,  journalist  and  politician. 

Opposite  the  W.  end  of  Louisville  is  the  finely- 
situated  and  handsomely-built  city  of  New  Albany, 
with  16,422  inhabitants  and  many  pretty  public  and 
private  buildings. 

J  effersonville,  another  flourishing  town  on  the 
Indiana  shore,  lies  opposite  Louisville,  and  is  connected 


—  147  — 

with  it  by  the  great  railroad-bridge  across  the  Ohio, 
5,219  ft.  long. 

Leaving  Louisville  for  the  world-wide  known 
Mammoth  Cave,  the  train  passes  Bardstown  Junction, 
Lebanon  Junction  and  Muinfordsville;  a  pretty  village 
on  the  bank  of  Green  River.  This  neighborhood  was  the 
scene  of  numerous  encounters  between  Generals  Buell 
and  Bragg  in  the  campaign  of  1862.  From  Cave  City 
a  stage  runs  to  the  famous  Mammoth  Cave.  The  cave, 
\vhich  is  the  largest  known,  extends  about  nine  miles ; 
and  it  is  said  that  to  visit  the  portions  already  explored 
requires  from  150  to  200  miles  of  travel.  This  vast 
interior  contains  a  succession  of  marvelous  avenues, 
chambers,  domes,  abysses,  grottoes,  lakes,  rivers, 
cataracts,  etc.  Two  remarkable  species  of  animal  life 
are  found  in  the  cave,  in  the  form  of  an  eyeless  fish 
and  an  eyeless  craw-fish,  nearly  white  in  color. 
Other  animals  known  to  exist  in  the  cave  are  lizzards, 
frogs,  crickets,  rats,  bats,  etc.,  besides  ordinary  fish 
and  craw-fish  washed  in  from  the  neighboring  Green 
River.  The  atmosphere  of  the  cave  is  pure  and  healthful  j 
the  temperature  which  averages  59°,  is  about  the  same 
in  winter  and  summer.  It  is  a  sheer  impossibility  to 
describe  all  the  curiosities  of  this  wonderful  cave. 

I  did  not  travel  considerably  in  this  State,  and  had 
to  collect  Statistics,  which  I  here  reproduce. 

Kentucky,  the  "  Corn  Cracker  State,"  whose  name 
signifies  "dark  and  bloody  ground,"  was  the  ancient 
hunting  grounds  of  the  Indians. 

Earliest    explorations  made  by   John  Finley    and 


—  148  — 

others,  1767;  Daniel  Boone  established  himself  there, 
1769;  admitted  as  a  State,  1792. 

Area,  40,400  square  miles;  greatest  length,  350 
miles;  greatest  breadth,  178  miles;  river  frontage,  812 
miles;  navigable  waters,  4,000  miles. 

Temperature  at  Louisville :  Winter,  34°  to  44°  ; 
summer,  75°  to  80°.  Rainfall  at  Springdale,  49 
inches. 

Frankfort  is  the  capital,  and  has  a  population  of 
6,958.  Lexington,  the  former  capital,  founded  1776, 
16,656. 

Louisville  and  Paducah  are  ports  of  entry. 

Number  of  farms,  166,453;  average  value  per 
acre,  cleared  land,  $18.86  ;  wood  land.  $12.82. 

Ranks  high  as  an  agricultural  State,  has  a  world 
wide  reputation  for  thoroughbred  horses  and  cattle, 
and  is  first  in  tobacco. 

Population,  1,648,690  ind.;  271,451  negroes;  10 
Chinese  and  50  Indians. 

Slaves  in  1860,  225,483. 

Colleges,  15 :  School  age,  6-20. 

Returning  from  the  Mammoth  Cave  over  the  same 
road.  I  resumed  my  journey  to  Nashville,  in  the  State 
of  Tennessee,  which  I  here  describe. 

Nashville  is  the  capital  of  Tennessee  and  the  largest 
city  in  the  State  in  point  of  population  (45,000),  and  is 
situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Cumberland  river,  200 
miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Ohio.  It  is  well  built 
and  there  are  many  imposing  public  and  private  build 
ings,  among  which  deserve  mention:  the  Capitol, 


—  149  — 

Vanclerbilt  University,  the  Court  House,  State  Peni 
tentiary,  University  of  Nashville,  Fisk  University, 
Tennessee  Central  College,  the  State  institutions  for 
the  Blind  and  Insane,  the  latter  6  miles  distant,  and 
several  churches. 

The  Hermitage,  the  celebrated  residence  of  Andrew 
Jackson,  is  12  miles  E.  of  Nashville. 

In  November  1864,  the  Confederate  General  Hood, 
having  lost  Atlanta,  placed  his  army  in  Sherman's  rear 
and  began  an  invasion  of  Tennessee. 

After  severe  lighting  with  General  Schofield  on 
November  the  30th  he  advanced  upon  Nashville  and 
shut  up  General  Thomas  within  its  fortifications.  For 
two  weeks  little  was  done  on  either  side.  When 
Thomas  was  fully  ready,  he  suddenly  sallied  out  on 
Hood,  and,  in  a  terrible  two  day's  battle,  drove  the 
Confederates  out  of  their  entrenchments  into  headlong 
flight.  The  Union  cavalry  pursued  them,  the  infantry 
following  close  behind,  and  the  entire  Confederate 
Army,  except  the  rear  guard,  which  fought  bravely  to 
the  last,  was  broken  into  a  rabble  of  demoralized  fugi 
tives,  which  at  last  escaped  across  the  Tennessee. 
For  the  first  time  in  the  war  an  army  was  destroyed  5 
and  General  Sherman,  who  had  been  awaiting  in  At 
lanta  the  issue  of  Hood's  maneuver,  then  started  on  bis 
famous  march  to  the  sea. 

Later  on,  I  returned  to  this  State  once  more,  and 
now  started  for  the  East,  the  first  place  arrived  at 
being  Cleveland,  in  the  State  of  Ohio. 

Cleveland,  the  second  city  in  size  and  importance 


—  150  — 

in  Ohio,  is  situated  on  the  S.  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Cuyahoga  river.  The  greater  portion  of 
the  city  stands  on  a  gravelly  plain,  about  100  ft.  above 
the  lake.  The  new  Breakwater  W.  of  the  river's 
mouth  affords  a  safe  harbor. 

The  city  is  tastefully  laid  out,  the  abundance  of 
shade  trees,  chiefly  elms,  have  given  it  the  title  of  the 
"Forest  City."  The  great  stone  viaduct  which  spans 
the  river  valley  between  the  two  divisions  of  the  city, 
on  a  level  with  the  plateau,  is  justly  reckoned  among 
the  triumphs  of  American  engineering,  it  is  3,211  ft. 
long  and  cost  over  $2,000,000.  The  population,  in 
1880,  was  160,142.  The  commerce  of  the  city  is  very 
large,  especially  with  Canada  and  the  mining  regions 
of  the  Lake  Superior. 

The  most  important  manufactures  are  of  iron  and 
coal-oil  5  in  the  production  of  refined  petroleum,  Cleve 
land  is  the  first  city  in  the  world.  Other  important 
products  are  sulphuric-acid,  wooden-ware,  agricultural 
implements,  marble  and  stone,  railroad  cars  and  white 
lead.  Pork-packing  is  also  carried  on  to  some  extent. 

Euclid  Avenue  is  undoubtedly  the  handsomest 
street  of  any  city  in  the  United  States. 

There  are  numerous  fine  public  edifices  and  ele 
gant  private  residences. 

Of  the  127  churches  in  the  city,  the  most  note 
worthy  are  St.  Paul's,  the  Old  Stone  Church,  the 
Second  Presbyterian,  the  Catholic  Cathedral,  etc.  Of 
its  educational  institutions  of  which  there  are  many, 
I  will  only  mention  the  Adelbert  College,  or  Western 


—  151  — 

Reserve  University,  the  Case  School  of  Applied 
Science,  the  Medical  Department  of  the  Western  Re 
serve  University,  the  Medical  Department  of  the  Uni 
versity  of  Wooster,  the  Brooks  School  and  the  Public 
Library,  numbering  40,000  volumes. 

The  Marine,  Charity,  and  Homoeopathic  hospi 
tals,  the  Hebrew  Orphan  Asylum  and  the  City  Infirm 
ary  are  of  great  importance. 

The  Water-works  of  Cleveland  near  the  lake  are  of 
great  dimensions  and  the  West-side  Reservoir  a  very 
popular  resort. 

On  Lake  View  Cemetery,  containing  300  acres, 
lie  the  remains  of  the  late  President  James  A.  Gar- 
field.  2^  acres  on  the  highest  point  of  the  cemetery 
are  being  prepared  for  a  monument  beneath  which  his 
remains  are  to  be  placed. 

Leaving  Cleveland,  the  train  passes  the  pretty 
villages  of  Berea  and  Elyria,  and  in  30  miles 
reaches  Oberlin,  noted  as  the  seat  of  Oberlin  College, 
from  which  no  person  is  excluded  on  account  of  sex  or 
color.  This  college,  founded  in  1834,  combines  man 
ual  labor  with  study,  inculcates  entire  social  equality 
between  whites  and  blacks,  and  has  a  prosperous 
career. 

The  next  important  Station  is  Toledo,  which  within 
a  few  years  has  developed  from  an  inconsiderable  vil 
lage  into  a  large  and  rapidly  growing  city.  Its  popu 
lation  numbers  65,000  and  its  commerce  is  very  large. 
Situated  on  the  Maumee  river,  4  miles  from  a  broad 
and  beautiful  bay,  and  12  miles  from  Lake  Erie,  of 


—  152  — 

which  it  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  ports,  its  manufact 
ures  are  numerous  and  important,  including  car 
factories,  iron  works,  locomotive  shops,  furniture 
factories,  flour  mills  and  breweries. 

The  commerce  consists  chiefly  of  the  handling  of 
grain.  It  has  large  and  handsome  public  buildings, 
wide  streets,  several  neat  parks  and  costly  water-works. 
Toledo  is  the  converging  point  of  19  railroad 
lines. 

Ohio,  the  "Buckeye  State,"  has  its  name  from  the 
Indian,  signifying  "  Beautiful  River."  First  perman 
ent  settlement  at  Marietta,  1788  5  admitted  as  a  State, 
1802. 

Area,  41,060  square  miles,  greatest  length  east  and 
west,  225  miles  ;  extreme  breadth,  200  miles  ;  Ohio 
river  frontage,  430  miles  5  lake  frontage,  230  miles. 

Temperature  at  Cleveland:  winter,  27°  to  38°; 
summer,  68°  to  73°.  At  Cincinnati :  winter,  34°  to 
45°;  summer,  74°  to  79°.  Rainfall  at  Cleveland,  38 
inches. 

Columbus,  the  capital  of  the  State,  is  a  great  rail 
road  center,  and  has  51,647  inhabitants  (estimated 
now  as  over  75,000).  There  are  many  State  institu 
tions,  several  high-schools,  medical  colleges,  and  other 
Academies,  etc.,  in  Columbus,  and  the  State  Capitol 
considered  to  be  one  of  the  finest  in  the  Union. 

Near  Dayton,  in  this  State,  is  the  greatest  Soldiers 
Home  in  America,  with  numerous  public  and  private 
buildings,  a  theater,  and  other  places  of  resort  for  the 
invalid  soldiers. 


—  153  — 

Number  of  farms,  247,189,  of  which  199,562  are 
occupied  by  owners ;  average  value  per  acre,  cleared 
land,  $47.53,-  woodland,  $41.37. 

Dairy  products  are  a  source  of  great  revenue. 
Ranks  first  in  agricultural  implements  and  wool;  sec 
ond  in  petroleum,  iron  and  steel. 

Population,  3,198,062,  incl.  79,900  colored,  109 
Chinese  and  130  Indians. 

Number  of  Colleges,  35;  school  population,  1,081,- 
321 ;  school  age,  6-21. 

My  next  aim  was  the  wonder  of  the  world,  "The 
Falls  of  Niagara/7  and  boarding  a  train  for  Buffalo,  in 
the  State  of  New  York,  I  arrived  there  soon,  and  began 
with  the  usually  first  visited  Goat  Island,  reached  by  a 
bridge  360  ft.  long,  the  bridge  itself  being  an  object  of 
interest,  from  its  apparently  dangerous  position. 

The  view  of  the  Rapids  from  the  bridge  is  one  of 
the  most  impressive  features  of  the  Niagara  scenery. 

The  river  descends  52  ft.  in  a  distance  of  f  of  a 
mile  by  this  inextricable  turmoil  of  waters.  Below  the 
bridge  is  "Chapin's  Island."  A  short  walk  leads  to 
"Luna  Island,"  a  huge  rock-mass  between  the  Center 
Fall  and  the  American  Fall,  the  width  of  this  latter 
being  over  1,100  feet,  and  the  precipice  over  which  it 
plunges  is  164  ft.  high.  "Cave  of  the  Winds"  is  a 
spacious  recess  back  of  the  Centre  Fall.  The  "Horse 
shoe  Fall"  is  unsurpassingly  grand  and  majestic.  The 
mighty  cataract  here  measures  2,200  ft.  across,  with  a 
perpendicular  plunge  of  158  ft. 

At  the  other  end  of  Goat  Island  a  series  of  beauti- 


—  154  — 

ful  bridges  leads  to  the  "Three  Sisters,"  as  ,3  small 
islets,  lying  in  the  Rapids,  are  called. 

These  last  named  are  rugged  masses  of  rock, 
covered  with  a  profuse  and  tangled  vegetation.  Among 
the  many  attractive  points,  which  to  describe,  it  is 
almost  an  impossibility,  "Grand  Island "  above  "Navy 
Island,"  deserves  mention  as  the  spot  on  which,  in 
1820,  Major  Mordecai  M.  Noah  founded  "Ararat,"  a 
city  of  refuge  for  the  Jews,  in  the  vain  hope  of  as- 
scmblig  there  all  the  Hebrew  population  of  the  world. 

The  New  Suspension  Bridge,  connecting  with 
Canada,  is  1,268  ft.  from  tower  to  tower,  and  190  ft. 
above  the  river.  The  view  of  the  falls  arid  of  the 
gorge  below,  from  the  bridge  is  admirably  pretty. 
"Table  Rock,"  formerly  an  overhanging  platform,  is 
still  called  so,  though  fallen  long  ago  over  the  preci 
pice. 

The  "Whirlpool,"  below  the  Falls,  is  occasioned  by 
a  sharp  bend  in  the  river  which  is  here  contracted  to 
a  width  of  220  ft. 

The  appropriateness  of  the  name  Niagara  (Indian : 
"Thunder  of  waters"),  is  very  evident  here. 

The  Falls  of  Niagara  are  situated  on  the  Niagara 
River,  about  22  miles  from  Lake  Erie  and  14  miles 
from  Lake  Ontario.  The  river  is  the  channel  by 
which  all  the  waters  of  the  4  great  upper  lakes  flow 
toward  the  Gulf  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  has  a  total 
descent  of  333  ft.,  leaving  Lake  Ontario  still  231  ft. 
above  the  sea. 

With  feelings  of  admiration  and  astonishment  I  left 


—  155  — 

this  lovely  and  impressive  spot — the  thunder  of  its  tur 
moil  waters  re-echoing  in  my  ears — and  returned  to  the 
city  of  Buffalo,  the  "Queen  City  of  the  Lakes." 

Third  in  size  of  the  cities  in  the  State  of  New  York, 
it  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Buffalo  Creek  and  head 
of  Niagara  River,  at  the  E.  end  of  Lake  Erie.  Its 
harbor  is  the  largest  and  finest  on  the  lake  and  it  is  the 
terminus  of  the  Erie  Canal,  the  New  York  Central, 
the  Erie,  the  New  York,  West  Shore  and  Buffalo,  the 
Delaware,  Lackawana  and  Western,  and  eight  other 
railroads. 

The  city  has  a  water-front  of  about  5  miles,  half 
upon  the  lake  and  half  upon  Niagara  River.  Its  com 
merce  is  very  large,  its  position  at  the  foot  of  the  great 
chain  of  lakes  makes  it  the  entrepot  for  a  large  part  of 
the  traffic  between  the  East  and  the  great  Northwest. 
The  population,  1880,  was  155,134.  The  lake  navi 
gation  of  the  city  is  the  most  important  element  of 
business;  the  manufactures  are  also  large,  the  chiefest 
being  of  iron,  tin,  brass,  and  copper-ware.  Malting 
and  brewing,  for  which  the  climate  is  very  favorable, 
are  extremely  carried  on. 

Buffalo  was  first  settled  in  1801 ;  it  became  a  mili 
tary  post  during  the  war  of  1812,  and  was  burned  by  a 
force  of  Indians  and  British  in  1814 ;  and  it  was  in 
corporated  as  a  city  in  1832.  Since  the  completion  of 
the  Erie  Canal  in  1825  its  growth  has  been  very 
rapid. 

Buffalo  is  handsomely  built,  the  prominent  public 
buildings  are:  the  Custom  House  and  Post  Office,  the 


—  156  — 

State  Arsenal,  the  State  Armory,  the  Erie  County 
Penitentiary,  the  Court  House  and  the  City  Hall. 

The  most  notable  churches  are:  the  Episcopal,  St. 
Paul's  Cathedral,  and  the  Catholic  St.  Joseph's  Cathe 
dral. 

The  leading  educational  institutions  include:  the 
Medical  College  of  the  University  of  Buffalo,  the  Jesuit 
Canisius  College  and  several  female  academies. 

The  Buffalo  Historical  Society,  with  a  large  library 
and  cabinets,  and  the  Society  of  Natural  Sciences, 
with  a  very  valuable  collection  of  minerals,  and  a  good 
botanical  and  conchological  cabinet,  and  a  complete  set 
of  Professor  Ward's  fossils  casts,  are  located  in  the  same 
building. 

The  Grosvenor  Library  numbers  12,000  volumes, 
and  of  the  many  charitable  institutions,  the  State  In 
sane  Asylum  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  Union. 

Of  great  curiosity  are  also  the  extensive  canal 
basins,  the  piers,  the  grain-elevators  and  some  of  the 
iron  works. 

The  International  Bridge  crosses  the  Niagara  river 
to  the  Canadian  village  of  Fort  Erie. 

By  way  of  Suspension  Bridge  I  continued  my 
travels  in  the  State  of  New  York,  and  visited  Rochester, 
with  89,366  population,  situated  on  both  sides  of  the 
Genesee  river,  7  miles  from  its  mouth  in  Lake  On 
tario.  Soon  after  it  enters  the  city  the  river  makes  a 
rapid  descent,  there  being  a  perpendicular  fall  of  96 
ft.  near  the  center,  and  two  others  of  25  ft.  near  the 
northern  limit.  It  is  to  the  prodigious  water-power 


—  157  — 

thus  afforded  that  much  of  the  prosperity  of  the  city  is 
attributable,  and  it  contains  several  of  the  largest  flour 
mills  in  the  country.  Other  important  industries  are 
the  production  of  clothing,  boots  and  shoes,  engines 
and  boilers,  agricultural  implements,  trees  and  garden 
and  flower  seeds.  The  nurseries  are  worth  paying  a 
visit. 

There  are  a  number  of  exceedingly  fine  buildings 
in  Eochester,  as  for  instance,  the  City  Hall,  Powers 
Buildings,  the  University  of  Rochester  with  the  finest 
geological  cabinets  in  the  Union,  collected  by  Professor 
Henry  A.  Ward,  and  Warner's  New  Building.  There 
also  are  several  good  educational  academies  and  chari 
table  institutions. 

The  Genesee  Falls  have  several  falls,  the  first  of 
which  is  96  ft.  high,  the  second  25  ft.  and  the  third 
84ft. 

Charlotte,  7  miles  distant,  on   Lake  Ontario,  is  the 
port  of  Rochester. 

The  route  from  Rochester  to  Syracuse,  not  far  from 
where  the  Aqueduct,  848  ft.  long  and  with  a  canal- 
width  of  45  ft.,  carries  the  Erie  Canal  over  the  Genesee 
river,  has  nothing  noteworthy.  Syracuse  has  68,192 
inhabitants  and  very  important  Salt  springs,  the 
most  extensive  in  America.  Of  the  leading  High- 
schools,  the  University  of  Syracuse  (Methodist)  is  most 
prominent.  Manufactures  and  trade  in  this  city  are 
also  of  a  grand  scale. 

Rome  is  a  thriving  city  of  12,045  population,  and 
the  large  railroad-shops  and  rolling-mills  are  located  here. 


—  158  — 

Rome  is  one  of  the  best  lumber-markets  in  the  State, 
and  there  is  excellent  water  power,  the  city  being 
situated  at  the  Junction  of  the  Erie  and  Black  River 
Canals. 

The  last  important  town  en  route  for  Albany  is 
Utica,  situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Mohawk.  The 
city  has  33,913  inhabitants,  extensive  and  varied 
manufactures,  and  is  the  center  of  an  important  rail 
way  and  canal  system.  Here  is  the  State  Lunatic 
Asylum  and  several  spacious  and  pretty  buildings. 

From  Utica  the  train  runs  for  some  time  parallel 
with  the  Lake  Erie,  who  traverses  the  State  of  New 
York  from  Buffalo  to  Albany,  and  afterwards  through 
the  picturesque  Mohawk  Valley,  and  alights  in  the 
capital  of  the  State  of  New  York,  the  beautiful  city  of 
Albany. 

The  capital  of  New  York  State  is  finely  situated  on 
the  W.  bank  of  the  Hudson,  at  the  head  of  the  sloop 
navigation  and  near  the  head  of  the  tide  water.  It  was 
founded  by  the  Dutch  as  a  trading  post  in  1614,  and 
next  to  Jamestown  in  Virginia,  was  the  earliest  Euro 
pean  settlement  in  the  original  13  States.  Its  present 
name  was  given  it  in  1664,  in  honor  of  the  Duke  of 
York  and  Albany,  afterward  James  II.  It  was 
chartered  in  1686,  and  made  the  State  capital  in  1798, 
since  which  time  its  population  has  increased  from 
5,349  in  1800,  to  90,903  in  1880,  estimated  now, 
to  over  100,000. 

Albany  has  a  large  commerce,  as  the  entrepot  of 
the  great  Erie  canal  from  the  W.  and  the  Champlain 


—  159  — 

canal  from  the  N.,  and  as  the  center  to  which  several 
important  railways  converge. 

The  New  Capitol,  begun  in  1871,  now  nearly 
finished,  is  the  largest  and  most  splendid  edifice  in 
America,  the  Federal  Capitol  excepted.  Of  granite, 
in  Renaissance  style  and  standing  on  the  most  elevated 
ground  in  the  city,  with  a  tower,  320  ft.  high,  it  is 
visible  for  miles  around.  The  structure  is  300  ft.  N. 
and  S.  by  400  ft.  E.  and  W. 

The  State  Library  in  the  Capitol  numbers  150,000 
volumes,  and  contains  a  collection  of  curiosities  and 
historical  relics. 

The  State  Geological  and  Agrictural  Hall  has 
valuable  collections  in  Natural  History,  Geology  and 
Agriculture  and  many  curious  relics.  The  Medical 
College  is  a  prosperous  institution  with  an  extensive 
Museum,  and  the  Law  School  of  the  University  of 
Albany  is  of  great  importance.  The  Dudley  Observa 
tory,  founded  and  endowed  by  Mrs.  Blandina  Dudley, 
stands  on  Observatory  Hill,  near  the  limits  of  the  city 
and  has  a  valuable  special  library,  and  some  fine  ap 
paratus. 

The  educational  institutions  of  Albany  are  numer 
ous  and  efficient,  its  hospitals  and  charities  note 
worthy. 

Of  the  50  churches  in  the  city,  the  Cathedral  of  the 
Immaculate  Conception,  seating  4,000  persons,  is  the 
pre-eminent. 

6  miles  above  Albany,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Hud 
son,  and  at  the  head  of  river  navigation  is  Troy, 


—  160  — 

with  56,747  inhabitants,  containing  extensive  manu 
factures  of  iron,  steel,  cars,  cotton  and  woolen-goods, 
hosiery  and  shoes,  and  with  a  large  commerce. 

The  Athenaeum,  St.  Joseph's  Theological  Seminary, 
the  Rensselaer  Polytechnic  Institute,  this  latter,  one  of 
the  leading  schools  in  America  for  instruction  in  civil 
engineering,  are  excellent  schools  of  learning. 

In  West  Troy  is  the  great  Watervliet  Arsenal,  with 
40  buildings  in  a  park  of  105  Acres. 

From  Albany  to  New  York  the  trip  was  made  down 
the  Hudson  river,  the  " Rhine"  of  America, 

The  beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  stream;  the 
picturesque  sceneries  on  its  banks  5  the  wooded 
mountains  and  the  hills  crowned  with  pretty  villas,  and 
thousand  other  attractions,  make  this  majestic  river  to 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  world.  The  greater  variety, 
and  its  superior  breadth  as  well  as  its  stately  flow  to 
the  sea  make  it  somewhat  equal  if  not  superior  to  the 
Rhine. 

I  will  only  mention  a  few  of  the  many  lovely  spots 
on  both  sides  of  the  river  as  coming  down  from  the 
place  of  my  departure. 

The  scenery  from  Albany  to  Hudson,  though  pleas 
ing,  is  somewhat  monotonous  until  Catskill  Landing  is 
reached,  where  there  is  a  little  more  variety.  At 
Rhinebeck-Landing,  opposite  Kingston  and  Rondout,  is 
the  Beekman  House,  200  years  old  and  the  best  speci 
men  of  an  old  Dutch  Homestead.  From  New  Paltz- 
Landing,  14  miles  distant,  I  visited  Lake  Mohonk,  a 
delightful  summer  resort,  situated  near  the  summit  of 


—  161  — 

Sky-Top,  one  of  the  loftiest  of  the  Shawangunk 
Mountains,  1,243  ft.  above  the  river.  The  largest  city 
between  Albany  and  New  York,  Poughkeepsie,  is 
reached  by  ferry  from  New  Paltz-Landing.  Built  on 
an  elevated  plain,  nearly  200  ft.  above  the  river,  it  is 
backed  by  high  hills.  This  city  has  several  fine 
churches,  numerous  and  elegant  residences,  and  no  less 
than  eight  important  educational  institutions,  including 
Vassar  College,  one  of  the  leading  female  colleges  of 
the  world.  The  buildings  of  this  college,  with  the  main 
building,  500  ft.  in  length,  are  modeled  after  the  Tuile- 
ries.  North  of  the  city  are  the  vast  buildings  of  the 
Hudson  River  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane. 

Opposite  Fishkill-Landing  is  the  handsome  built 
city  of  Newburg,  containing  18,000  inhabitants.  Here 
the  Highlands  begin.  Newburg  was  the  theatre  of 
many  interesting  events  during  the  Revolution,  and 
Washington's  Headquarters,  an  old  gray  stone  mansion 
S.  of  the  city,  is  still  preserved  as  a  museum  of  his 
torical  relics.  On  the  W.  bank  of  the  river  is  the 
picturesque  village  of  Cornwall-Landing.  Between  the 
latter  place  and  West  Point,  in  the  Highlands,  respect 
ively  Breakneck  and  Bacon  Hill,  1,187  and  1,685  ft. 
in  height,  the  mountains  are  among  the  most  command 
ing  features  of  the  river  scenery,  and  from  the  summit 
of  the  latter  New  York  City  may  be  seen. 

West  Point  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  places  on 
the  river.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  National  Military 
Academy.  Of  the  most  noteworthy  buildings,  the 

Cadets'  Barracks,  the  Academy,  the  Mess  Hall  and  the 

11 


—  162  — 

Library,  containing  26,000  volumes,  deserve  mention. 
The  Observatory  is  in  the  Library  Building.  The 
Chapel  and  the  Museum  of  Ordnance  and  Trophies  are 
interesting. 

From  Fort  Putnam,  on  Mount  Independence,  600  ft. 
above  the  river,  fine  views  are  obtained. 

The  scenery  to  where  the  Highlands  come  to  an 
end  is  of  striking  beauty. 

Passing  the  Buttermilk  Falls  and  arriving  at  lona 
Island  in  whose  neighborhood  is  Sugar-loaf  Mountain, 
at  the  foot  of  which  is  Beverly  House,  where  Benedict 
Arnold  was  breakfasting  when  news  came  to  him  of 
Andre's  arrrest,  and  whence  he  fled  to  the  British  vessel 
Vulture,  anchored  in  the  stream  below,  CaldwelPs- 
Landing  is  reached  by  ferry.  This  place  is  memorable 
for  the  costly  but  futile  search  after  the  treasures  which 
the  famous  pirate,  Captain  Kidd,  was  supposed  to  have 
secreted  at  the  bottom  of  the  river  here. 

Peekskill,  opposite  CaldwelPs-Landiiig,  is  one  of  the 
prettiest  towns  on  the  Hudson.  Beyond,  the  former 
remains  of  a  small  Revolutionary  fort  are  seen,  and 
Verplanks  Point  is  notable  as  the  spot  where  Henry 
Hudson's  ship,  the  "Half  Moon,"  first  came  to  anchor 
after  leaving  Yonkers. 

At  Croton  Point,  a  prominent  head-land,  projecting 
into  the  river,  the  Croton  Kiver  enters  the  Hudson,  and 
6  miles  down  this  stream  is  Croton  Lake,  which  supplies 
the  Metropolis  with  water.  The  lake  is  formed  by  a 
dam  250  ft.  long,  40  ft.  high  and  70  ft.  thick,  and  the 
water  is  conveyed  to  New  York  by  the  famous  Croton 


—  163  — 

Aqueduct,  which  is  over  40  miles  long,  with  16  tunnels 
and  24  bridges.  Sing  Sing  occupies  an  elevated  slope, 
and  makes  a  fine  appearance  from  the  river.  The 
State  Prison  is  located  here,  and  its  vast  stone  buildings 
are  conspicuous  objects  from  the  steamer.  Many  fine 
villas  crown  the  heights  above  and  around  the  village, 
looking  down  upon  the  Hudson,  which  at  this  point 
attains  its  greatest  breadth. 

Nyack,  a  popular  suburban  place  is  opposite  Tarry- 
town,  which  has  many  scenic  and  historic  attractions. 

By  an  inscription  in  the  village  the  spot  is  marked 
where  Andre  was  arrested,  and  Tarry  town  witnessed 
many  fights  between  guerillas  during  the  Revolution. 

It  takes  its  chief  interest,  however,  from  its  associ 
ation  with  Irving's  life  and  writings.  Here  is  the 
church  which  he  attended,  and  of  which  he  was  warden 
at  the  time  of  his  death  j  here  he  is  buried,  and  near 
by  are  the  scenes  of  some  of  his  happiest  fancies,  in 
cluding  the  immortal  Sleepy  Hollow  and  the  bridge 
rendered  classic  by  the  legend  of  Ichabod  Crane. 

26  miles  distant  from  New  York  is  the  village  of 
Irvington,  named  in  honor  of  Washington  Irving,  whose 
unique  little  cottage  at  Sunnyside  is  close  by,  upon  the 
margin  of  the  river,  but  hidden  from  the  traveler's  view 
by  the  dense  growth  of  the  surrounding  trees  and 
shrubbery.  The  cottage  is  a  quaint  and  picturesque 
structure,  and  the  E.  front  is  embowered  in  ivy,  the 
earlier  slips  of  which  were  given  to  Irving  by  Sir 
Walter  Scott,  at  Abbotsford,  and  planted  by  Irving 
himself.  In  the  vicinity  of  Irvington  are  many  fine 


—  164  — 

residences,  the  most  conspicuous  of  which  is  the  Pauld- 
ing  Manor,  situated  on  a  high  Promontory,  and  said  to 
be  the  finest  specimen  of  the  Tudor  architecture  in  the 
United  States. 

Tappan  Zee,  10  miles  long  and  4  miles  wide  at  the 
widest  part,  is  a  widening  out  of  the  river,  beginning 
at  Piermont.  Tappan,  an  old  town,  is  interesting  as 
one  of  Washington's  headquarters  during  the  Revolu 
tion  and  as  the  place  where  the  unfortunate  Major 
Andre  was  imprisoned  and  executed,  October  the  2d, 
1780. 

Yonkers,  an  ancient  settlement,  was  the  home  of 
the  once  famous  Phillipse  family,  of  which  was  Mary 
Phillipse,  Washington's  first  love. 

The  desolate  and  lonely  appearance  of  the  cliffs,  the 
so-called  Palisades  looming  up:  the  distance  of  New 
York  City  is  only  short. 

These  Palisades,  a  series  of  grand  precipices,  rising 
in  some  places  to  the  height  of  300  ft.,  stretch  along 
the  river-bank  in  unbroken  line,  for  more  than  20 
miles.  The  rock  is  trap,  columnar  in  formation,  and 
the  summit  thickly  wooded. 

Passing  Fort  Washington  and  affording  fine  views 
of  the  Jersey  shore,  the  northern  suburbs,  the  harbor 
and  the  city,  the  steamer  lands  in  the  metropolis,  thus 
ending  the  brilliant  trip. 

After  a  brief  stay  in  New  York,  making  this  city 
my  headquarters,  I  started  direct  for  Chicago,  the 
principal  city  of  Illinois,  the  metropolis  of  the  West, 
and  the  greatest  railway  centre  on  the  continent.  It  is 


—  165  — 

situated  on  the  W.  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Chicago  River,  in  lat.  about  41°  50'  N., 
and  Ion.  10°  33'  W.  from  Washington.  The  city 
stands  on  the  dividing-ridge  between  the  basins  of  the 
Mississippi  and  St.  Lawrence,  and  is  surrounded  by  a 
prairie  stretching  several  hundred  miles  S.  and  W. 

The  first  white  visitors  to  the  site  of  Chicago  were 
Joliet  and  Marquette,  who  arrived  in  August,  1673. 
The  first  permanent  settlement  was  made  in  1804, 
during  which  year  Fort  Dearborn  was  built  by  the 
U.  S.  Government.  At  the  close  of  1830,  Chicago 
contained  12  houses  and  3  country  residences,  with  a 
population,  composed  of  whites,  half-breeds  and  blacks, 
of  about  100.  It  was  organized  in  1 833  and  incorpor 
ated  as  a  city  in  1837.  At  the  first  census  taken,  on 
July  1st,  1837,  the  entire  population  was  found  to  be, 
4,170,  at  the  census  in  1880,  503,304. 

The  present  population  is  estimated  to  exceed  600,- 
000. 

Chicago  was  visited  by  two  conflagrations  of  enor 
mous  dimensions,  but  one  year  after  the  first  fire,  1871, 
a  large  part  of  the  burned  districts  had  been  rebuilt, 
and  the  second  fire  in  1874,  though  it  destroyed  18 
blocks  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  left  no  marks  after  a 
few  months. 

Chicago  ranks  next  in  commmercial  importance  to 
New  York  among  the  cities  of  the  Union.  As  early  as 
1854,  it  had  become  the  greatest  primary  depot  for  grain 
in  the  world 5  and  since  then  it  has  also  become  the  great 
est  grain,  live-stock,  and  lumber  market  in  the  world. 


—  166  — 

The  manufactures  of  Chicago  are  extensive  and  impor 
tant,  employing  about  150,000  persons,  and  including 
iron  and  steel  works,  factories  of  car-wheels,  cars,  and 
other  railroad  appliances,  flour  mills,  furniture-factor 
ies,  manufactories  of  boots  and  shoes,  and  tanneries. 
They  number  about  4,000,  the  annual  product  being 
over  300  millions  of  dollars  worth. 

There  are  25  elevators  of  enormous  storage  capacity 
and  26  railways  enter  the  city. 

Most  of  the  public  buildings  were  burned  down  in 
the  great  fire,  and  have  not  been  replaced  as  rapidly  as 
the  business  structures.  The  New  City  Hall  and 
County  Court  House,  nearly  completed,  is  estimated  to 
$5,000,000.  The  Custom  House  and  Post  Office,  the 
Board  of  Trade  Building  and  the  Exposition  Building- 
are  among  the  finest  in  the  city. 

There  are  over  300  churches  in  Chicago,  of  which 
are  the  most  prominent:  Unity  Church,  Twelfth  Street 
Church  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral. 

The  Public  Library  contains  92,000  volumes.  The 
Academy  of  Sciences  established  in  1857,  has  lost  a 
valuable  collection  of  38,000  specimens  in  the  fire. 
The  Art  Institute,  the  University  of  Chicago,  Dearborn 
Observatory,  the  Baptist  Theological  Seminary,  the  St. 
Ignatius  College,  the  Presbyterian  Theological  Seminary, 
Rush  Medical  College,  the  College  of  Physicians  and 
Surgeons,  Woman's  Medical  College,  Chicago  Medical 
College  and  the  Ilahnemann  College,  are  the  most 
famous  literary  and  educational  institutions. 

Among  the  many  hospital  and  charitable  establish- 


—  167  — 

ments,  the  following  deserve  special  mention:  Cook 
County  Hospital,  Mercy  Hospital,  Michael  Reese  Hos 
pital,  maintained  by  the  United  Hebrew  Relief  Associ 
ation,  the  Newsboys'  Home,  Foundlings  Home,  Home 
for  the  Friendless,  Protestant  Orphan  Asylum,  St. 
Joseph's  (male)  and  St.  Mary's  (female)  Orphan  Asylums 
and  the  Old  People's  Home. 

The  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital  is  one  of  the  largest  and 
costliest  in  the  United  States. 

The  Public  Parks  of  Chicago  are  nicely  laid  out 
and  the  Lincoln  Park  contains  the  Zoological  Garden. 

The  Water  Works  of  Chicago  are  worth  being 
inspected. 

The  intercourse  between  the  three  divisions  of  the 
city  is  effected  by  35  bridges,  which  span  the  river  at 
intervals  of  two  squares,  and  swing  on  central  pivots  to 
admit  the  passage  of  vessels,  These  bridges,  however, 
are  a  serious  impediment  to  navigation,  as  well  as  to 
vehicles  and  pedestrians  5  and  in  order  to  obviate  the 
inconvenience,  a  tunnel  was  constructed  under  the 
South  Branch.  It  is  1,608  ft.  long,  with  a  descent  of 
45  ft.  Another  similar  tunnel,  whose  total  length  is 
1,890  ft.  was  constructed  under  the  main  river  in  L870, 
connecting  the  North  and  South  Division. 

The  Union  Stock  Yards  where  the  vast  live-stock 
trade  of  the  city  is  transacted,  comprise  345  acres,  of 
which  146  are  in  pens  and  have  32  miles  of  drainage, 
8  miles  of  streets  and  alleys,  2,300  gates.  They  have 
capacity  for  25,000  cattle,  100,000  hogs,  22,000  sheep, 
and  1,200  horses.  Connected  therewith  are  the  Pack- 


—  168  — 

Ing  and  Slaughtering  houses,  whence  are  shipped 
annually  ten  million  pounds  of  hog  product  alone. 

The  Grain  Elevators  are  a  very  interesting  feature, 
all  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river. 

About  16  miles  S.  of  Chicago  is  the  unique  city  of 
Pullman.  It  is  named  after  the  inventor  of  the  Pullman 
Sleeping  Cars.  From  5,000  to  6,000  workers  are  em 
ployed  in  the  shops,  where  the  cars  are  manufactured. 
Adjoining  Pullman  are  S.  Chicago  and  Grand  Crossing, 
which  contain  rolling-mills,  iron  and  steel-mills,  and 
many  of  the  larger  manufactures. 

The  distance  between  Chicago  and  Milwaukee,  in 
Wisconsin,  is  85  miles. 

The  road  via  Milwaukee  Division  of  the  Chicago  and 
Northwestern  R.  R.  runs  along  the  W.  shore  of  Lake 
Michigan,  through  a  rich  farming,  well-culivated  and 
populous  country.  A  few  miles  beyond  Wauke- 
gan  the  train  crosses  the  boundary  line  and  enters 
Wisconsin,  soon  reaching  Kenosha,  with  8,000  inhabi 
tants,  important  manufactures  and  a  large  trade  in  the 
products  of  the  surrounding  country.  11  miles  from 
here  is  the  academic  city  of  Racine,  the  second  city  of 
the  State  in  population  and  commerce.  Situated  on  the 
mouth  of  Root  river,  its  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on 
the  lake,  its  commerce  very  large  and  the  varied  and 
extensive  manufactures  are  the  chief  source  of  the 
city's  wealth.  Racine  College  (Episcopal),  is  one  of 
the  most  prominent  in  the  United  States. 

Milwaukee,  the  commercial  capital  of  Wisconsin, 
and  next  to  Chiccgo  the  largest  city  in  the  Northwest, 


—  169  — 

is  situated  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  Lake  Michigan,  at 
the  mouth  of  Milwaukee  river. 

This  river  flows  through  the  city,  and  with  the 
Menomonee,  with  which  it  forms  a  junction,  divides  it 
into  3  nearly  equal  districts. 

The  climate  is  peculiarly  bracing  and  healthful  and 
the  atmosphere  remarkably  clear  and  pure.  The  city 
is  regularly  laid  out. 

Milwaukee  was  settled  in  1835,  and  incorporated 
as  a  city  in  1846.  Its  population  in  1880,  was  115,- 
578.  The  Germans  constitute  fully  one  half  of  the  en 
tire  population. 

The  commerce  of  Milwaukee  is  very  large,  wheat 
and  flour  being  the  most  important  articles.  There  are 
six  grand  grain  slevators  and  the  flour  mills  are  on  an 
immense  scale.  Butter,  wool,  hides  and  lumber  are 
also  important  articles  of  trade.  Its  manufactures  are 
extensive  and  embrace  the  highly  esteemed  and  widely 
exported  Lager-bier,  pig-iron  and  iron  castings,  leather, 
machinery,  agricultural  implements,  steam-boilers,  car- 
wheels,  furniture,  and  tobacco  and  cigars.  Pork- 
packing  is  extensively  carried  on. 

Most  all  streets  are  well  shaded.  The  County 
Court  House  and  the  LI.  8.  Custom  House  with  the 
Post-Office  are  exceedingly  fine  structures. 

The  Northwestern  National  Asylum,  for  disabled 
soldiers,  is  an  immense  building.  The  Academy  of 
Music,  with  seats  for  2,300  persons,  owned  by  the 
German  Musical  Society,  and  the  Opera-House  are 
handsome  edifices. 


—  170  — 

The  Grain-Elevator  of  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  and 
St.  Paul  and  the  Chicago  and  Northwestern  Railways, 
is  v  ell  worth  a  visit,  since  it  is  considered  to  be  the 
largest  in  the  Union. 

The  Rolling-mill  at  Bay  View,  outside  the  city 
limits,  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  in  the  West. 

Two  of  the  flour-mills  in  Milwaukee  manufacture 
daily  1,200,  respectively  1,000  barrels  of  flour. 

Leaving  Milwaukee,  via  La  Crosse  and  St.  Paul 
Division  of  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  and  St.  Paul  R.  R., 
the  first  city  on  this  route,  Portage  City,  an  important 
place,  with  5,000  inhabitants,  large  manufactures,  and 
containing  a  High-school  and  the  workshops  of  the  R. 
R.  Company,  was  reached.  I  passed  Tomah  and 
Sparta,  on  the  La  Crosse  river,  two  flourishing  villages 
in  a  fertile  valley  and  arrived  at  La  Crosse,  on  the  E. 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Black  and 
La  Crosse  rivers.  It  is  finely  situated  on  a  level 
prairie,  has  many  handsome  buildings,  a  High-school, 
flourishing  graded  schools  and  an  extensive  trade  in 
lumber,  contains  9  saw-mills,  3  foundries  and  machine- 
shops,  a  large  factory  of  saddlery  and  harness 
and  various  other  establishments.  Population, 
15,000. 

On  the  same  line  lies  the  small,  but  prosperous  city 
of  Winona.  The  First  State  Normal  School  is  located 
here,  as  is  the  High-School.  Winona  is  one  of  the 
most  important  lumber-distributing  points  on  the  Up 
per  Mississippi,  and  as  a  grain-shipping-point  it  ranks 
among  the  first  in  the  Northwest.  Manufacturing  is 


—  171  — 

also  extensively  carried  on  in  this  little  city  with 
10,208  inhabitants. 

Madison  was  my  next  stopping-point.  This  capi 
tal  of  tha  State  has  about  12,000  inhabitants  and  is  a 
flourishing  commercial  centre.  It  lies  in  the  very 
heart  of  the  "  Four-Lake  Country/'  so  called  from  a 
chain  of  beautiful  lakes  which  extend  over  a  distance 
of  16  miles,  and  discharge  their  surplus  waters  into 
Yahara  or  Catfish  River,  a  tributary  of  Rock  River. 
They  are  named:  Mendota,  or  Fourth  Lake,  Monona, 
or  Third  Lake,  and  Lakes  Wanbesa  and  Kegonsa. 
The  city  lies  between  Lakes  Mendota  and  Monona.  It 
contains  the  State  Capitol,  the  Court  House  and 
Jail,  the  Post  Office  and  U.  S.  Court  House,  the 
University  of  Wisconsin,  the  Washburn  University, 
(with  a  telescope  whose  glass  is  second  only  to  that 
in  the  National  Observatory),  the  State  Hospital 
for  the  Insane,  the  Wisconsin  Historical  Society, 
(with  an  interesting  collection  of  .relics  and  a  valu 
able  library  of  110,000  volumes),  and  many  handsome 
churches. 

Beyond  Madison,  the  St.  Paul  train  passes  many 
small  places  of  no  interest,  until  Prairie  du  Chien,  a 
town  of  about  3,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  E. 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  2  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Wisconsin  is  reached.  This  place  is  in  the  midst  of  a 
beautiful  prairie,  9  miles  long,  and  1  mile  wide,  bor 
dered  on  the  E.  by  high  bluffs. 

It  is  an  important  local  shipping  point  and  has 
varied  and  important  manufactures.  The  St.  John's 


—  172  — 

College  and  St.  Mary's  female  institute  are  under 
control  of  Roman  Catholics. 

Faribault,  one  of  the  most  populous  and  prosperous 
interior  towns  in  the  State,  was  the  last  place  in  Wis 
consin  which  I  visited.  In  1853  it  was  the  site  of 
Alexander  Faribault's  trading-post.  Its  population  in 
1880  was  5,500,  and  here  are  the  State  Asylum  for 
the  Deaf  and  Dumb  and  Blind,  an  Episcopal  Academy, 
several  flour-mills,  foundries  and  saw-mills. 

Between  Faribault  and  St.  Paul,  Minnesota,  in 
Northfield,  are  located,  Carlton  College,  (Congrega 
tional)  and  St.  Olaf's  College,  (Lutheran). 

The  "  Badger  State,"  Wisconsin,  has  its  name  from 
the  river,  an  Indian  word  signifying  u  Wildrushing 
River."  First  settled  by  French  at  Green  Bay,  1669 ; 
organized  as  a  Territory,  1836  ;  first  territorial  legis 
lature  at  Belmont,  September  1st,  1836;  admitted  as  a 
State,  1847. 

Area,  56,040  square  miles;  greatest  length,  300 
miles;  greatest  breadth,  260  miles;  Mississippi  River 
navigable  throughout  south-west  boundary;  excellent 
harbors  in- Lake  Superior  on  north,  and  Lake  Michigan 
on  east. 

Port  Washington  one  of  the  finest  natural  harbors 
in  the  world. 

Temperature  at  Milwaukee:  winter,  19°  to  31°; 
summer,  63°  to  70°  ;  rainfall,  30  inches. 

Population  of  Eau  Claire,  21,668,  and  of  Fond  du 
Lac,  12,726. 

Number  of  farms,  102,904;  average  value  per  acre, 


—  173  — 

cleared  land,  $26.27;  woodland,  $19.55.  Wheat  most 
valuable  crop;  cultivation  of  flax  increasing;  many 
acres  devoted  to  culture  of  cranberries. 

Extensive  lead  mines  in  Grant,  Lafayette  and  Iowa 
counties;  native  copper  in  the  north,  in  Crawford  and 
Iowa  counties.  Milwaukee  clay  famous  for  making 
cream-colored  brick.  Iron  ores  in  Dodge,  Sank,  Jack 
son  and  Ashland  counties. 

Ranks  second  in  hops. 

Population,  inclusive  5,576  Colored  and  2,695  In 
dians:  1,563,423. 

Betters  and  duelists  excluded  from  voting. 

Number  of  colleges,  7;  number  of  public  schools, 
6,588;  school  population,  495,233;  school  age,  4-20. 

St.  Paul,  the  capital  of  Minnesota,  with  125,000  in 
habitants,  is  a  beautiful  city  and  is  situated  on  both 
banks  of  the  Mississippi  River. 

The  streets  are  well  graded  and  partially  paved. 
The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  State  Capitol, 
the  U.  S.  Custom  House,  containing  the  Post  Office, 
and  the  Court  House  and  City  Hall,  in  progress.  The 
Grand  Opera  House  has  seats  for  2,300  persons,  and 
the  Exposition  Building  is,  like  the  former,  a  fine  place 
of  amusement.  There  are  75  churches  in  the  city,  4 
public  and  as  many  private  libraries,  those  of  the  His 
torical  Society  and  Library  Association  comprising  to 
gether  about  24,000  volumes.  The  Academy  of 
Sciences  contains  about  126,000  specimens  in  natural 
history.  There  are  three  free  hospitals,  and  a  Protes 
tant  and  Roman  Catholic  Orphan  Asylum. 


—  174  — 

Carver's  Cave  is  a  great  curiosity  of  nature,  con 
taining  a  lake  which  may  be  crossed  in  a  boat,  and 
Fountain  Cave,  about  2  miles  above  the  city,  was  ap 
parently  hollowed  out  of  the  rock  by  a  stream  which 
flows  through  it.  It  contains  several  chambers,,  the 
largest  being  100  ft.  long,  25  wide  and  20  high. 
White  Bear  Lake  and  Bald-Eagle  Lake  are  popular 
resorts  with  picturesque  sceneries. 

Minnehaha  Falls,  immortalized  by  Longfellow's 
poem,  are  romantically  situated.  The  commerce  of  the 
city  is  very  extensive. 

10  miles  above  St.  Paul,  is  Minneapolis,  on  both 
sides  of  the  Mississipi,  built  on  a  broad  esplanade  over 
looking  the  famous  falls  of  St.  Anthony.  The  city  is 
regularly  laid  out,  has  wide  and  straight  streets,  with 
2  rows  of  trees  on  each  side  and  many  substantial 
business  blocks  and  elegant  residences.  The  City 
Hall,  Court  House,  Chamber  of  Commerce,  the  Lum 
ber  Exchange  and  the  Minneapolis  Exposition  are 
noticeable  structures. 

The  Athenaeum  Library  contains  8,000  volumes 
and  that  of  the  University  of  Minnesota,  13,000.  The 
last  named  and  the  High-School  are  important  institu 
tions,  but  there  are  numerous  good  public  and  private 
schools. 

The  prosperity  of  the  city  is  owing  to  the  abund 
ant  water-power,  for  manufacturing  purposes,  from  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony.  The  fall  is  18  ft.  perpendicular, 
with  a  rapid  descent  of  82  ft.  within  2  miles.  The 
rapids  above  the  cataract  are  finer  than  the  fall  itself. 


—  175  — 

Minneapolis  is  the  center  of  immense  lumber  and  flour 
interests,  being  the  largest  flour-manufacturing  place  in 
America.  Its  population  is  about  129,000.  The  value 
of  the  flouring-mill  products  is  estimated  at  about 
$22,000,000  annually. 

I  extended  my  explorations  in  this  State  as  far  as 
to  the  boundary-line  between  the  United  States  and 
Canada  via  St.  Paul  and  Duluth  R.  R.  and  visited  en 
route  the  city  of  Duluth. 

The  commercial  importance  of  this  place,  which  has 
about  17,500  inhabitants,  derives  from  its  situation  at 
the  extreme  west  point  of  the  Great  Lakes,  lying  on 
the  shore  of  Lake  Superior,  near  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
Louis  river.  It  is  the  terminus  of  5  rail  roads.  The  city 
is  well-built  and  contains  many  fine  public  buildings; 
its  manufactures,  especially  in  lumber,  are  extensive. 

The  North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior  is  comparatively 
an  unknown  region.  North  of  Duluth  the  shore  rises 
into  grand  cliffs  of  greenstone  and  porphyr,  800  to 
1,000  ft.  in  height.  The  Palisades,  58  miles  from 
Duluth,  are  a  remarkable  rock  formation,  presenting 
vertical  columns  from  60  to  100  ft.  high,  and  from  1  to 
6  ft.  in  diameter. 

Near  by,  Baptism  river  comes  dashing  down  to  the 
lake  in  a  series  of  wild  water-falls.  At  a  distance  of 
53  miles  from  the  Palisades,  Pigeon  River  is  the 
boundary-line  between  the  United  States  and  Canada ; 
and  here  begins  the  "  Grand  Portage,"  a  series  of 
lakes  and  streams,  beyond  which  are  Saskatchewan 
and  Manitoba. 


—  176  — 

The  "  Gopher  State/'  Minnesota,  named  from  the 
river;  term  of  Indian  origin,  signifying  "Whitish  or 
Sky-colored  water."  Explored  by  Hennepin  and  La 
Salle,  1680;  Fort  Snelling,  built  1819;  organized  as  a 
Territory,  1849;  admitted,  1858. 

Area,  83,365  square  miles,  extreme  length,  380 
miles;  breadth  near  north  line,  337  miles;  near  middle, 
183  miles ;  and  on  the  south  line,  262  miles. 

Temperature  at  St.  Paul:  winter,  11°  to  30°  ; 
summer,  67°  to  74°.  Rainfall  at  Fort  Snelling,  25 
inches. 

Pembina,  port  of  entry  on  Red  river. 

Number  of  farms,  140,000;  value  per  acre,  cleared 
land,  $20;  woodland,  $15. 

Total  acreage  of  the  State,  53,353,600  ;  in  farms, 
16,000,000  ;  in  forests,  1,800,000. 

Wheat  the  staple,  and  milling  the  great  industry, 
giving  employment  to  4,000  people. 

Ranks  fourth  in  wheat  and  barley. 

Dairy  interests  increasing  in  value,  production  of 
butter  and  cheese  becoming  one  of  the  great  indus 
tries. 

Population,  1,118,486,  inclusive  1,814  Colored,  99 
Chinese,  and  1,215  Indians. 

Number  of  colleges,  5;  school  population,  400, 000  j 
school  age,  5-21. 

Resuming  my  journey  on  the  Northern  Pacific  R. 
R.,  I  reached  Moorhead,  a  town  of  5,000  inhabitants  on 
the  Red  River  and  the  centre  of  an  important  trade  and 
thriving  manufactures,  also  the  seat  of  an  Episcopal 


—  177  — 

College.  Fargo,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Red 
River,  is  the  first  station  in  Dakota,  has  a  population 
of  10,000,  and  is  regarded  as  the  future  commercial 
center  of  Dakota.  Fargo  and  Moorhead  base  their 
prosperity  on  the  fact  that  they  are  the  entrepots  of  the 
wheat-growing  interests.  Brick  is  manufactured  here 
extensively,  and  there  are  many  other  manufactures 
and  the  car-shops  and  round-houses  of  the  R.  R.  Company. 

Bismarck,  the  territorial  capital,  situated  on  the  E. 
bank  of  the  Missouri  River,  has  a  population  of  5,000. 
Many  fine  public  buildings  and  a  Catholic  seminary 
are  in  this  city,  and  there  is  a  lively  trade  carried  on 
by  four  lines  of  steamers  with  the  region  of  the  Upper 
Missouri. 

Mandan  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Missouri,  has  2,000 
inhabitants.  The  Missouri  River  is  spanned  by  a  fine 
iron  railroad  bridge,  and  another  iron  wagon  bridge 
gives  access  to  Fort  Abraham  Lincoln.  Reaching  the 
twin  towns  of  Medora  and  Little  Missouri,  lying  on  the 
E.  and  W.  banks  of  the  Missouri,  240  ft.  apart,  the 
headquarters  of  several  large  stock-raising  companies 
are  found  to  be  located  there  as  well  as  the  Northern 
Pacific  Refrigerator  Car  Company's  shops,  and  the  ex 
tensive  abattoirs  of  the  Marquis  de  Mores,  a  young 
French  gentleman,  who  has  thousands  of  cattle  on  the 
range  and  is  doing  an  extensive  trade  in  shipping 
dressed  beof.  In  the  vicinity  are  valuable  coal  mines. 
This  is  also  the  central  point  of  Pyramid  Park,  being 
but  4  miles  distant  from  Cedar  Canon,  and  6  miles 

from  the  burning  coal-mines. 

12 


—  178  — 

Between  here  and  the  boundary  of  Montana  is  the 
geologically  interesting  region  of  the  so-called  "Bad 
Lands." 

From  Grlendive,-  on  the  Yellewstone  River,  a  dis 
tance  of  80  miles,  Fort  Budford  is  reached  by 
stage. 

Miles  City,  on  the  Yellowstone,  at  the  mouth 
of  Tongue  River,  has  many  fine  buildings  and  3,000 
population.  There  is  a  14  mile  ditch  for  irrigation 
and  valuable  lignite  mines  in  the  near  vicinity.  2 
miles  farther  on  the  railroad  is  Fort  Keogh,  a  military 
post  of  10  companies,  and  passing  a  number  of  stations, 
among  which  is  Ouster,  deriving  its  name  from  Fort  Cus- 
ter,  the  largest  post  in  the  territory,  30  miles  S.,  reached 
also  by  stage,  Billings,  on  the  Yellowstone  River,  with 
],500  population,  is  entered  into.  Here  are  the  R.  R. 
Company's  repair-shops,  and  from  here  large  shipments 
of  cattle,  wool,  hides,  and  bullion  are  made.  The 
Maginnis  Mines,  Fort  Benton  and  other  important 
points  of  valuable  grazing,  mining,  and  agricultural 
regions  are  reached  by  stages. 

At  the  fort  of  the  Belt  Mountains,  about  midway  be 
tween  the  Great  Lakes  and  the  Pacific  Coast  and  at 
the  last  crossing  of  the  Yellowstone  River,  is  Living 
ston,  with  a  population  of  2,600. 

It  has  the  largest  railroad  round-house  and  machine- 
shops  between  Brainerd  and  Portland.  Large  deposits 
of  iron,  lime  and  sand-stone,  silver  ore,  and  bituminous 
coal  exist  in  close  proximity.  Lumber,  lime  and 
brick  are  manufactured  in  the  town.  White  Sulphur 


-r-  179  — 

Springs  are  65  miles  to  the  N.  These  Springs  contain 
remarkable  medicinal  qualities. 

The  Yellowstone  Park  Branch  diverges  here  and 
runs  to  Cinnabar  and  from  the  end  of  the  railway  the 
"Wonderland"  of  the  United  States  is  reached  by 
stage,  in  6  miles. 

Dakota,  so  called  from  a  tribe  of  Indians  of  the 
same  name  had  its  first  settlements  at  Pembina,  made 
by  Lord  Selkirk,  1812.  It  was  organized  as  a  Terri 
tory,  1861,  and  had  its  first  legislature  at  Yankton, 
March  1862. 

Area,  149,100  square  miles  5  average  length,  450 
miles  ;  breadth,  350  miles  ;  ranks  in  size  next  to  Texas 
and  California. 

General  elevation,  1,000  to  2,500  ft.;  Red  River 
frontage,  about  250  miles;  the  Missouri  navigable 
throughout  the  territory. 

Temperature  at  Bismarck :  winter  4°  to  27° ;  sum 
mer,  63°  to  71°.  Climate  dry,  and  cold  not  so  pene 
trating  as  in  moister  regions  further  east.  Rainfall  at 
Fort  Randall,  17  inches;  73  per  cent,  of  year's  rain 
falls  in  spring  and  summer. 

Yankton  is  the  chief  town  of  the  South. 

Dakota  is  the  finest  wheat-growing  country  on  the 
continent.  Nutritious  grasses  at  all  seasons  and  abund 
ant  water  offer  remarkable  advantages  for  stock-rais 
ing;  wool  growing  an  important  industry ;  climate  es 
pecially  favorable  for  sheep.  Ranks  fourth  in  gold, 
and  mineral  wealth  centred  in  Black  Hills;  coal  found 
in  workable  quantities  west  of  the  Missouri. 


—  180  — 

Population,  135,177  in  1880,  with  sufficient  in 
crease  since  then  to  entitle  her  to  admission  as  a  State. 
In  the  population  are  included  401  Negroes,  238  Chi 
nese,  and  1,391  Indians. 

The  Yellowstone  National  Park,  which  Congress 
has  set  apart  as  a  public  park  for  the  benefit  and  en 
joyment  of  the  people,  is  situated  partly  in  Wyoming 
and  partly  in  Montana. 

It  is  65  miles  N.  and  S.  by  55  miles  E.  and  W., 
comprises  3,575  square  miles,  and  is  all  more  than 
7,000  ft.  above  the  sea.  Yellowstone  Lake  has  an 
altitude  of  7,788  ft.;  and  the  mountain-ranges  that 
hem  in  the  valleys  on  every  side  rise  to  the  height  of 
10,000  and  12,000  ft.  and  are  covered  with  perpetual 
snow. 

The  entire  region  was  at  a  comparatively  recent 
geological  period  the  scene  of  remarkable  volcanic 
activity,  the  last  stages  of  which  are  still  visible  in  the 
hot  springs  and  geysers.  In  these  the  Park  surpasses 
all  the  rest  of  the  world.  There  are  probably  50  gey 
sers  that  throw  a  column  of  water  to  a  height  of  form 
50  to  200  ft.  and  nearly  10,000  springs,  chiefly  of  2 
kinds,  those  depositing  lime  and  those  depositing  silica. 
There  is  every  variety  of  color,  and  the  deposits  form 
around  their  borders  the  most  elaborate  ornamentation. 
The  temperature  of  the  calcareous  springs  is  from  160° 
to  170°  5  that  of  the  others  rises  to  200°  or  more. 

The  chief  points  of  interest  are,  the  Mammoth 
Hotel  Terraces,  the  Norris  Geyser  Basin,  extending 
from  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  to  Madison  river,  the 


—  181  — 

• 

Mammoth  Paint-Pots,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Johnson, 
the  Monument  Geyser  Basin,  on  the  top  of  Mount 
Schurz,  in  which  is  the  Prismatic  Canon,  the  Ebony 
Basin,  containing  Walpurgia  Lake,  and  the  Black 
Warrior  Geyser.  On  the  N.  of  the  park  are  the 
sources  of  the  Yellowstone;  on  the  W.  those  of  the 
principal  forks  of  the  Missouri;  on  the  S.  W.  and  S. 
those  of  Snake  river,  flowing  into  the  Columbia,  and 
those  of  Greene  river,  a  branch  of  the  Great  Colorado, 
which  enters  into  the  Gulf  of  California ;  while  on  the 
S.  E.  side  are  the  numerous  head-waters  of  AVind 
river. 

The  Yellowstone  River,  a  tributary  of  the  Missouri, 
is  the  most  extraordinary  river  on  the  American  conti 
nent  j  its  source  is  near  S.  E.  corner  of  the  park  in  the 
Yellowstone  Lake,  12  miles  long  and  10  to  15  wide, 
7,788  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  nearly  inclosed  by  sriow- 
clad  mountains,  rising  3,000  to  5,000  ft.  higher.  15 
miles  below  the  lake  are  the  Upper  Falls,  and  j  of  a 
mile  farther  down  the  majestic  Lower  Falls,  which  are 
360  ft.  high. 

Below  the  Lower  Falls  the  river  flows  for  20  miles 
through  the  Grand  Canon,  whose  perpendicular  sides, 
from  600  to  1,500  ft.  apart,  rise  to  the  height  of  1,200 
to  1,500  ft.  Below  the  Grand  Canon,  the  river  re 
ceives  Tower  Creek,  which  flows  for  30  ft.  through  a 
gloomy  and  pretty  deep  canon,  the  Devil's  Den,  600  ft. 
above  its  mouth  the  creek  pours  over  an  abrupt  de 
scent  of  156  ft.,  thus  forming  a  most  beautiful  and 
picturesque  fall. 


—  182  — 

The  most  remarkable  group  of  hot  springs  in  the 
world  is  the  Mammoth  or  White  Mountain  Hot  Springs. 
Many  of  these  springs  are  dead,  but  the  calcareous  de 
posits  from  them  cover  an  area  of  about  2  square  miles. 
The  springs  in  activity  extend  from  the  river's  edge  to 
nearly  1,000  ft.  in  elevation.  The  Sulphur  Mountain, 
rising  from  an  almost  level  plain  to  a  height  of  150  ft., 
is  perforated  with  numerous  fissures  and  craters,  from 
which  sulphurous  vapor  pours  forth  in  abundance. 

Close  by  are  some  Boiling  Mud  Springs,  and  a  few 
miles  above  the  Sulphur  Mountain  is  the  Mud  Volcano, 
which  has  broken  out  from  the  side  of  a  well-timbered 
hill.  This  volcano  is  in  a  constant  state  of  ebullition, 
throwing  up  masses  of  boiling  mud  and  sending  up 
dense  columns  of  steam  which  rise  several  hundred  feet 
and  are  seen  for  miles  around. 

The  Great  Geysers  of  the  Yellowstone  region  arc 
situated  on  the  Fire-Hole  river,  the  middle  fork  of  the 
Madison  in  the  W.  portion  of  the  park.  They  form  2 
large  groups,  the  Upper  and  Lower  Geyser  Basins. 
Most  of  the  Springs  and  Geysers  arc  near  the  river. 
Their  average  temperature  is  over  170°,  that  of  the  air 
67°.  Among  these,  the  "Old  Faithful/7  the  "Giant- 
ess,"  the  "Grand  Geyser"  and  "Giant  Geyser,"  are 
the  most  prominent,  the  waters  of  which  are  thrown  up 
in  columns  to  a  height  of  from  100  to  250  ft.  The 
Castle,  the  Grotto,  the  Punch-bowl,  the  Eiverside,  the 
Soda,  and  the  Fan  Geysers,  and  numerous  others  which 
have  not  been  named,  are  worthy  of  notice. 

Passing  Bozeman,  with  2,500  population  and  several 


—  183  -— 

flour  and  plaining  mills,  and  where  coal,  gold,  silver, 
iron  and  copper  are  found  nearby,  the  military  post  of 
Fort  Ellis  is  3  miles  E.  on  the  railroad,  and  after 
Gallatin,  at  the  head  of  the  Missouri  river  and  Towns- 
end  are  passed,  Helena,  the  territorial  capital,  is  reached, 
already  described  by  me.  An  excursion  to  the  Gregory 
mine  district,  one  of  the  most  productive  in  the  world, 
was  worth  making. 

Montana  was  formerly  a  part  of  Idaho;  became  a 
Territory,  1864;  and  received  about  2,000  square  miles 
from  Dakota  in  1873. 

Area,  146,080  square  miles;  length,  east  and  west, 
460  to  540  miles;  average  breadth,  275  miles. 
Drained  by  the  Missouri  and  its  tributaries  and  the 
tributaries  of  the  Colorado.  Through  the  E.  portion 
run  the  small  tributaries  of  the  Missouri  and  the 
Yellowstone  in  every  direction,  while  a  great  number 
of  small  rivers,  tributary  to  Flathead  and  Missoula 
rivers,  forming  one  of  the  forks  of  the  Columbia,  water 
the  W.  section  of  the  territory. 

Temperature  at  Virginia  City:  winter,  17°  to  30°, 
summer,  55°  to  65°;  rainfall  seldom  exceeds  12  inches 
per  annum.  Immense  area  of  cultivable  land;  cereal 
productions  are  very  large,  some  varieties  of  corn 
grown  in  portions  of  Territory,  but  generally  too  cold. 

Grazing  interest  of  value;  estimated  area  of  valu 
able  grazing  land,  100,000  square  miles;  great  extent 
of  plains  and  mountain  valleys  yet  untouched  by 
herdsmen. 

Montana  is  one  of  the  richest  mining  countries  in 


—  184  — 

the  world;  mineral  wealth  almost  inexhaustible;  the 
production  in  1882  amounted  to  about  7  millions  of 
Dollars,  of  which  f  was  silver  and  -J-  gold. 

Manufacturing  interests  mainly  smelting  works,  and 
flour  and  lumber  mills. 

Hanks  fifth  in  silver  and  in  gold. 

Population,  39,159,  including  346  Negroes,  1,765 
Chinese,  and  1,663  Indians. 

School  population,  10,482;  school  age,  4  to  21, 
graded  schools  in  Deer  Lodge  City,  Virginia  City  and 
Helena. 

Resuming  my  journey  to  Denver,  Colorado,  by  way 
of  Salt  Lake  City,  on  the  Union  Pacific  R.  II.,  I  in 
tended  to  stay  in  Denver  for  some  time  and  to  explore 
the  interior  of  Colorado,  but  especially  to  study  the 
Geology  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  After  the  required 
rest,  I  started  first  to  Central  City,  a  prosperous  mining- 
town  with  2,500  inhabitants,  beautifully  situated  on 
mountain  slopes,  at  an  elevation  of  8,300  ft.  There 
are  a  number  of  quartz-mills  here,  and  being  in  the 
centre  of  a  very  rich  gold-mining  region,  it  has  great 
business.  From  here  I  travelled  through  Clear  Creek 
Valley  to  Idaho  Springs,  a  nice  little  village,  beautifully 
situated  in  a  lovely  valley,  among  lofty  mountain- 
ranges,  7,800  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  chief  attractions 
are  the  hot  and  cold  mineral  springs  containing  mag 
nesia,  soda,  iron  and  lime,  considered  to  be  remedial  in 
rheumatic  diseases,  and  as  they  are  chiefly  for  bathing 
there  are  extensive  bathing  establishments. 

12   miles   beyond   the   Springs   is   the   important 


—  185  — 

mining  town  of  Georgetown,  situated  on  S.  Clear  Creek, 
at  a  height  of  8,412  ft.,  one  of  the  highest  towns  in  the 
world.  It  is  surrounded  by  hills  and  has  many  inter 
esting  spots  in  the  neighborhood  and  is  the  starting 
point  for  Gray's  Peak,  14,251  ft.  above  the  sea.  The 
mountain  view  from  the  Peak  is  undescribably  grand. 

En  route  for  Graymont,  and  just  before  Silver 
Plume,  the  R.  R.  (Colorado  Central,  branch  of  the 
Union  Pacific)  describes  a  double  curvature,  the  so- 
called  Loop,  considered  to  be  one  of  the  wonders  of 
American  railroad-engineering,  without  any  other  equal 
in  the  world  than  the  railroad  line  between  Vera  Cruz 
and  Orizaba  in  Mexico.  Graymont  is  at  the  foot  of 
the  aforesaid  Gray's  Peak. 

On  the  second  excursion,  Colorado  Springs,  whose 
name  is  misleading,  since  the  Springs  are  5  miles  dis 
tant  from  here,  in  Manitou  Springs,  was  visited. 
Colorado  Springs  is  a  flourishing  village,  situated  on 
the  plains,  with  a  fine  view  of  the  mountains. 

Manitou  Springs,  the  "  Saratoga  of  Colorado,"  are 
situated  among  the  foot-hills  at  the  base  of  Pike's 
Peak,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  beautiful  Fontaine 
Creek.  The  waters,  containing  sulphur,  soda  and 
iron,  have  great  tonic  effects.  The  romantic  Ute  Pass 
and  the  Ute  Falls  are  in  the  nearest  neighborhood,  the 
latter  descending  in  an  unbroken  sheat  over  a  precipice 
50  ft.  high.  The  picturesque  Williams  Canon,  15  miles 
long  with  rocky-walls,  rising  6  to  800  ft.  nbove  a  very 
narrow  pass  below,  are  also  in  the  vicinity. 

Manitou  is  on  the  trail  to  Pike's  Peak,  reached  on 


—  186  — 

horse-back  in  about  11  to  12  hours.  The  view  from 
its  summit,  14,300  ft.  high,  embraces  many  thousand 
square  miles  of  plain  and  mountain,  and  it  stands  on  the 
edge  of  a  great  mountain-range.  Here  is  a  station  of 
the  Weather-Signal  Bureau,  occupied  summer  and 
winter. 

A  few  miles  E.  of  Manitou  Springs,  on  the  plain,  the 
so-called  Mesa  (table),  are  wonderful  formations  of 
sandstone. 

2  miles  from  Manitou  is  the  "Garden  of  the 
Gods/'  a  little  mountain-valley.  The  road  enters  it 
through  the  " Beautiful  Gate,'7  a  narrow  passage-way 
between  two  high  ledges  of  cliffs,  in  whose  center  a 
rock  pillar,  30  ft.  in  height,  stands,  thus  still  further 
narrowing  the  passage-way.  The  garden  consists  of 
a  tract  of  land  of  about  450  acres  in  extent,  hemmed 
in  by  mountains  and  bordered  by  red  sandstone  cliffs 
and  is  almost  shut  in  from  the  plains. 

1  mile  from  the  Garden,  at  "Glen  Eyrie/'  are 
similar  formations  of  isolated  rocks,  one  of  these,  the 
Major  Domo,  rising  to  a  height  of  120  ft.,  while  at  its 
base,  it  is  not  more  than  10  ft.  in  diameter. 

Glen  Eyrie  is  a  beautiful  mountain-gorge,  and 
closed  in  on  every  side  by  cliffs,  whilst  a  lovely  moun 
tain-brook  traverses  it  from  one  end  to  the  other.  Up 
the  rugged  Queen's  Canon  is  the  Devil's  Punch  Bowl, 
romantic  cascades  and  rapids.  Cheyenne  Canon,  9 
miles  from  Manitou,  has  picturesque  cascades  and 
beautiful  rock-formations. 

The  most  visited  spot  in  Colorado,  also  9  miles  from 


—  187  — 

Manitou  Springs,  "Monument  Park/'  is  very  striking, 
and  filled  with  phantastic  groups  of  eroded  sandstone, 
from  5  to  50  ft.  high,  almost  a  unique  in  the  West. 
They  are  on  each  side  of  the  Park,  which  is  not 
quite  one  mile  in  length,  and  mostly  ranged  along  the 
low  hills  of  the  same. 

Caves  with  peculiar  interior  formations  of  stalacti 
tes  and  stalagmites  are  also  here  to  be  found,  the 
Grand  Cavern,  9,000  ft.  above  the  sea,  has  magnificent 
detail-formations. 

Pueblo,  the  most  important  city  in  South  Colorado, 
was  my  next  aim. 

This  city  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  Arkansas 
River  and  Fontaine  Creek.  It  is  the  center  of  a  vast 
and  rich  agricultural  and  grazing  region,  does  a  very 
large  trade,  and  has  a  population  of  about  4,000,  there 
are  several  extensive  iron-smelting-works. 

From  Pueblo  the  Leadville  Division  of  the  Denver 
and  Rio  Grande  R.  R.  runs  N.  W.  to  Canon  City, 
near  which  is  Talbott  Hill,  where  Professor  Marsh  has 
excavated  some  of  the  most  remarkable  fossils  ever 
discovered.  Beyond  Canon  City,  the  Grand  Canon 
of  the  Arkansas  is  entered.  The  Arkansas  river  cuts 
here  its  way  for  8  miles  through  mountain  walls  of 
granite,  in  some  places  3,000  ft.  perpendicularly. 
The  beauty  of  the  scenery  at  the  Royal  Gorge  is  of  an 
extraordinary  brilliancy,  and  here  the  track  runs  for 
200  ft.  along  an  iron  bridge  suspended  over  the  river  by 
steel  girders  fastened  in  the  rocks  on  both  sides.  Be 
yond  the  Royal  Gorge  the  land  widens  and  offers 


—  188  — 

magnificent  views  of  the  Sangre  de  Christo  mountain- 
chain  in  the  S.  flanking  the  "  Sierra  Blanca,"  the  high 
est  point  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  14,650'  above  the 
level  of  the  sea. 

Between  Cafion  City  and  Salida  nothing  noteworthy 
is  found,  except  a  insignificant  little  place,  bearing  the 
somewhat  strange  name  Cotopaxi. 

I  stayed  one  day  in  Salida  and  ascended  the 
following  day  the  famous  "Marshall  Pass,"  10,800' 
above  the  sea,  and  forming  the  natural  divide  between 
the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Ocean.  E.  of  the  Pass  the 
waters  flow  toward  the  Arkansas  river  who  discharges 
into  the  Mississippi,  and  on  the  W.  toward  the  Gunni- 
son,  the  latter  emptying  in  the  Grand  river.  The 
Grand  river  in  junction  with  the  Green  river  forms  the 
Colorado  river  who  discharges  in  the  Gulf  of  Cali 
fornia. 

The  view  from  this  Pass  is  exceedingly  fine,  es 
pecially  to  the  Mount  Ouray  in  the  Sangre  de  Christo 
mountains.  There  are  many  snow-sheds  on  the  Pass 
to  prevent  snow-slides.  The  most  important  place  on 
the  other  side  of  the  mountain-chain  (the  continental 
divide),  is  Gunnison,  with  about  5, 000  inhabitants.  It 
is  the  great  outfitting  center  of  the  region,  and  the 
trade  growing  out  of  mining  interests  is  very  large.  It 
is  very  cold  here  in  winter,  already  in  November  26° 
below  Zero=25J  (cold)  E. 

About  1J  hours  by  rail,  W.  of  Gunnison,  is  the 
famous  Black  Canon  of  the  Gunnison  river.  Of  all 
the  accessible  canons  in  the  country,  this  is  the  grand- 


—  189  — 

est,  the  almost  perpendicular  descent  is  2,000  ft.  and 
the  river  which  penetrates  this  canon  is  very  rich  in 
mountain-trouts. 

After  visiting  the  Canon  I  returned  to  Gunnison. 

A  lake,  on  a  mountain  S.  of  Cimaron,  has  disap 
peared  the  year  previous  my  arrival  in  consequence  of 
an  earthquake  and  even  the  mountain  itself  had  been 
transformed;  this  must  have  caused  great  sensation, 
since  concussions  of  the  earth  in  this  high-plateau, 
averaging  7,000',  are  very  rare. 

I  started  from  Gunnison  by  the  South  Park  Branch 
of  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R.  in  a  northeasterly  direction 
and  arrived  in  Leadville  the  next  morning. 

On  this  road  lies  the  highest  railroad  pass  in  the 
country,  the  Alpine  Pass,  11,650  ft.  above  the  sea. 
The  view  from  this  Pass  exceeds  all  others  in  the 
State  and  is  almost  beyond  description. 

The  city  of  Leadville  is  10,200  ft.  above  the  ocean, 
considered  to  be  the  highest  town  in  the  world,  and  is 
in  the  very  heart  of  the  Silver  El  Dorado,  discovered 
1878.  It  has  over  18,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  most 
celebrated  mining-camp  in  the  West. 

The  mineral  wealth  promises  to  last  for  an  indefinite 
period  of  time.  The  city  itself  has  more  of  a  prosaic 
than  a  romantic  character,  but  the  surroundings  are 
marvellously  pretty,  especially  the  mountain  chain  of 
the  Divide,  W.  of  the  city,  with  the  picturesque  Mount 
Elbert.  E.  of  the  city  is  the  Mosquito  Range,  most  of 
the  mining  works  at  its  western  slope.  Here  are  Fryer 
Hill,  Carbonate  Hill,  and  Yankee  Hill.  All  the  mines 


—  190  — 

in  this  region  are  known  as  the  Carbonate  Camp,  on 
account  of  the  silver  found  with  carbonate  of  lead. 

The  mountains  in  which  silver  is  found  are  of  the 
lime  formation  and  in  the  fissures  are  the  ores,  and  the 
silver  is  between  a  whitish  Porphyr  and  dolomitic 
lime-stone. 

Long  before  the  discovery  of  the  Carbonate  Camp, 
gold  was  found .  in  the  neighborhood,  and  the  place 
named  by  California  prospectors  and  diggers,  the  Cali 
fornia  Gulch,  and  another  place  above  the  former:  Oro. 

Here  it  was,  where  the  Governor  and  Senator  Tabor 
of  Colorado — the  same  man,  whom  the  State  of  Colorado 
owes  a  great  deal  of  its  development  and  its  consequent 
progress  and  prosperity — had  been  digging  gold. 

The  total  value  of  ore  produced  for  1880,  the  last 
census  year,  was  $15,025,153.  14  miles  from  Lead- 
ville  are  the  celebrated  twin  Lakes,  nearly  2  miles 
above  the  sea-level. 

There  are  but  a  few  lakes  in  the  Rocky  Mountains, 

The  smelting-works  are  of  gigantic  dimensions, 
rivaling  with  those  of  Pueblo  and  Denver.  The  re 
fining  is  done  in  Omaha  (Nebraska)  and  in  Baltimore 
(Maryland)  j  copper-ores  are  sent  to  Swansea,  England. 

The  climate  of  Leadvillc  is  very  agreeable,  cool  in 
summer  and  not  very  cold  in  the  winter,  the  temperature 
of  Denver  lower  than  that  of  Leadville,  but  there  is 
more  snow  in  winter  in  the  latter. 

After  close  inspections  of  the  prominent  mines,  as 
for  instance,  the  Galena  and  Carbonate  mines,  etc.,  I 
returned  to  Denver  by  way  of  the  South  Park  line,  on 


—  191  — 

which  the  two  mountain-chains  of  the  Mosquito  and 
Park  ranges,  running  parallel,  and  a  Pass,  11,000  ft. 
in  height,  have  to  be  crossed.  Up  to  Breckenridge,  in 
the  valley,  there  is  nothing  of  extra  ordinary  note,  but 
when  Como  is  reached,  the  mountain  scenery  is  of  un 
usual  splendor  and  brilliancy. 

Beyond  this  place,  the  lovely  South  Park  (one  of 
the  many  parks  in  the  interior  of  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains)  has  to  be  traversed.  North,  Middle,  South  and 
San  Luis  Parks  are  the  most  prominent  of  them.  San 
Luis  Park  lies  in  a  region  where  many  Mexican  live 
and  where  Spanish  predominates. 

All  these  Parks  are  dryed-out  lake  bottoms,  and 
are  variously  situated,  some  at  an  altitude  of  from  7,000 
to  9,000  ft.  above  the  sea. 

E.  of  the  South  Park,  the  so-called  Kenosha  range, 
1 0,000  ft.  high,  has  to  be  crossed  and  on  the  other  side 
is  the  Platte  canon,  very  picturesqe,  and  the  rising- 
point  of  the  South  Platte  river,  the  same  on  which  the 
city  of  Denver  is  situated,  and  who,  in  junction  with 
the  North  Platte,  empties  into  the  Missouri. 

Once  in  the  plains,  the  beautiful  city  of  Denver 
was  soon  reached,  and  a  Siesta  taken. 

The  Southwest  of  the  State  has  a  great  future, 
though  the  mining  interest  undeveloped  and  almost  in 
its  infancy.  The  beauties  of  Nature  are  of  marvelous 
splendour,  and  it  is  surprising  to  find  the  means  of 
communication  and  transportation  by  rail  in  such  a 
neglected  and  pitiable  condition. 

Denver,  the  capital  and  largest  city  of  Colorado,  is 


—  192  — 

situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  South  Platte  river,  at 
the  junction  of  Cherry  Creek,  15  miles  from  the  E. 
base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  about  500  miles  W. 
of  the  Missouri  river.  It  occupies  a  series  of  plateaus, 
facing  the  mountains,  and  commanding  a  grand  and  beau 
tiful  view.  Pike's  and  Long's  Peaks,  as  well  as  the 
snow-covered  summits  of  the  range,  extending  more 
than  200  miles  are  seen  from  here.  Denver  is  the 
commercial  center  of  Colorado,  and  beautifully  built, 
mostly  of  brick,  manufactured  in  the  vicinity.  The 
trade  of  the  city  is  very  large,  and  from  it  5  railways 
radiate.  The  public  buildings  are  handsome  and  ex"- 
tensive  and  the  private  residences  very  beautiful. 

Denver  possesses  the  Denver  University,  the  U.  S. 
Branch  Mint,  and  among  its  chief  structures  are:  the 
Court  House,  City  Hall,  Chamber  of  Commerce,  the 
Tabor  Opera  House,  the  Railroad  depot,  several  brew 
eries  and  factories  and  a  few  good  hotels.  The  Den 
ver  Smelting  and  Refining  Works  occupy  a  very  large 
building,  with  a  capacity  of  40  tons  of  ore  per  diem. 

According  to  the  census  of  1 880,  it  had  a  popula 
tion  of  35,630,  but  estimated  now  to  have  80,000 
inhabitants. 

Intending  to  return  to  Denver  later  on,  I  started 
for  Santa  Fe,  in  New  Mexico. 

La  Junta,  situated  on  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and 
Santa  Fe  R.  R.,  is  the  junction  with  the  main  line 
which  extends  to  all  points  of  New  Mexico  and  Ari 
zona.  The  next  important  place  is  Trinidad,  lying  at  the 
foot  of  the  Raton  Mountains,  with  a  population  of  5,000. 


—  193  — 

It  is  the  center  of  a  large  mining  business  and  cat 
tle  trade.  The  city  presents  a  true  Mexican  type  with 
its  mixture  of  brick  and  adobe  houses.  14  miles  dis 
tant  from  here,  at  Morley,  the  road  climbs  through  the 
Raton  Pass  on  the  mountains  on  a  grade  of  185  feet  to 
the  mile.  Ascending  the  "DeviFs  Canon/'  as  it  is 
called,  the  Spanish  Peaks,  100  miles  to  the  Nv  are  dis 
tinctly  visible,  and  5  miles  further  up  the  mountain,  at 
a  height  of  7,688  ft.,  the  train  suddenly  plunges  into  a 
tunnel,  J  a  mile  in  length. 

While  coming  through  the  tunnel  the  border  has 
been  crossed  and  one  finds  himself  in  the  territory  of 
New  Mexico. 

Las  Vegas,  in  that  territory  is  reached,  and  the 
brightness  of  sunny  New  Mexico  manifests  itself  at 
once.  Las  Vegas,  on  a  branch  of  the  Pecos  River,  has 
1,500  inhabitants  and  is  the  trade-centre  of  the  great 
sheep-ranches  of  New  Mexico. 

A  branch  line  connects  the  city  with  Las  Vegas 
Hot  Springs,  the  attractive  sanitarium.  It  is  situated 
at  the  mouth  of  a  beautiful  carion,  and  the  Springs 
have  an  altitude  of  6,400  ft.  At  Lamy,  named  in 
honor  of  the  Archbishop  of  New  Mexico,  etc.,  the 
railroad  branches  to  the  interesting  and  historic  city  of 
Santa  Fe.  This  place  is  the  oldest  town  in  the  United 
States,  has  a  population  of  5,500,  and  is  the  seat  of  an 
archiepiscopal  diocese,  a  convent  and  of  2  ancient 
Roman  Catholic  churches,  of  which  the  Church  of 
"Nuestra  Senora  de  Gruadalupe"  is  very  famous.  It  is 

a  center  of  mining  interests.     Among  the  great  curiosi- 

13 


—  194  — 

ties  of  its  relics  is  the  ancient  Governor's  Palace,  a  long 
and  low  structure,  built  of  adobe,  extending  on  one 
side  of  the  Plaza,  where  the  Soldiers'  Monument  stands, 
and  which  was  erected  in  honor  of  those  who  fell  in  the 
Indian  and  the  late  civil  wars.  On  the  N.  E.  outskirts 
of  the  city  is  the  military  post  of  Fort  Marcy.  Santa 
Fe  is  mostly  built  of  adobe  and  its  streets  present  a 
very  picturesque  commingling  of  Americans,  Mexicans 
and  Indians. 

Resuming  my  journey  from  Lamy,  I  arrived  at 
Albuquerque,  a  town  of  over  4,000  population,  situated 
on  the  Rio  Grande  River,  at  an  elevation  of  5,000  ft. 
above  the  sea.  This  place,  with  its  modern  structures 
and  its  extensive  trade  in  wool  and  hides,  etc.,  is  one 
of  the  most  flourishing  and  prosperous  cities  in  New 
Mexico,  The  vineyards  of  the  Jesuits  are  well  culti 
vated  and  the  grand  Cathedral  in  the  old  part  of  the 
city,  2  miles  distant,  is  a  beautiful  edifice.  Not  far 
from  here  is  the  famous  institution  in  which  children  of 
different  Indian  tribes  are  educated. 

The  train  runs  through  a  region  full  of  fine  sheep 
and  cattle  ranches  till  it  reaches  the  great  mother  ridge 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  at  Continental  Divide  (a  sta 
tion).  Wingate,  3  miles  from  Fort  Wingate,  is  a  busy 
little  town,  and  from  here  stages  run  to  the  Indian  vil 
lage  of  Zuni,  45  miles  N.,  famous  through  the  re 
searches  of  Mr.  F.  Gushing,  who  has  found  among  these 
Indians  relics  of  a  high  and  mysterious  civilization. 

Passing  Manuelito,  where  a  stage-line  runs  to  Fort 
Defiance,  the  headquarters  of  the  Navajo  Agency,  Hoi- 


—  195  — 

brook,  is  reached.  I  visited  the  Moqui  Indian  Village, 
70  miles  away,  and  found  the  same  well  worth  a  visit. 
These  Indian  towns,  built  on  eminences,  are  so  situated 
that  they  can  only  be  approached  through  a  narrow 
defile.  The  houses  are  2  or  3  stories  high,  built  of 
mud  and  stone,  and  ranged  in  the  form  of  hollow 
squares.  Access  can  only  be  had  by  ladders  to  the 
second  stories,  the  first  being  built  solid  without  any 
opening.  There  are  seven  of  these  Moqui  Pueblos,  or 
Dying  Cities,  as  they  have  been  called,  and  of  which 
Zuni  is  the  chief,  and  the  inhabitants  have  often  and 
deeply  excited  the  curiosity  of  archaeologists.  Thev 
are  skilled  in  pottery,  weaving  and  mural  decorations, 
and  their  religious  rites  are  of  a  very  strange  nature. 

At  Canon  Diablo,  the  scenery  is  very  sombre  and 
impressive,  and  the  railroad  spans  the  mighty  chasm 
by  a  bridge  500  ft.  long  and  225  ft.  high. 

From  Peach  Springs  is  the  departing  point  for  the 
Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado,  one  of  the  greatest 
natural  wonders  in  the  world. 

The  Grand  Canon  of  Colorado  was  made  known  to 
the  world  only  a  few  years  ago  by  the  adventurous  voy 
age  of  my  worthy  friend,  the  Major  Powell,  downtheriver. 
The  Colorado  river  is  formed  by  the  Grand  and  Green 
rivers,  which  unite  in  Utah,  and  flows  southward  into 
Arizona.  It  passes  through  a  succession  of  remarkable 
canons,  but  all  of  these  preliminary  wonders  sink  into 
insignificance  before  the  Grand  Canon,  which  is  more 
than  300  miles  long.  The  Canon  opens  all  the  series 
of  geological  strata  down  to  the  granite  foundation. 


—  196  — 

The  walls  are  from  3,000  to  7,000  ft.  in  height.  The 
plateau  adjacent  to  the  canon  is  said  to  be  about  7,000 
ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  river,  looking  up  the  canon,  is  magnificent 
aud  beyond  the  most  extravagant  conception  of  the 
imagination. 

Continuing  my  journey  on  the  Atchison,  Topeka 
and  Santa  Fe  R.  R.,  I  reached  Socorro,  which  has  a 
population  of  about  5,000,  and  is  one  of  the  principal 
mining  towns  of  the  territory.  Mining,  grazing,  and 
fruit-growing  are  the  principal  industries.  Socorro 
has  a  stamp  milll,  and  famous  smelting- works  (Billings). 
The  Socorro  mining  district  contains  the  famous  Tor- 
rence  and  Merrit  Mines,  within  3  miles.  The  ores  are 
mostly  carbonate  of  lead,  carrying  silver,  some  of  which 
runs  as  high  as  $28,000  to  the  ton.  Situated  in  the 
Rio  Grande  valley,  the  city  is  beautiful,  and  in  addition 
to  the  above  named  industries  does  a  great  trade  in 
agricultural  and  stock-raising  products,  and  has  many 
fine  ranches  in  its  vicinity.  San  Marcial  has  about 
1,200  inhabitants,  is  a  thriving  place,  and  here  are  the 
repair-shops  of  the  R.  R.  company.  In  1862,  the 
battle  of  Valverde,  named  after  a  little  Mexican  village 
across  the  river,  was  fought  here  between  the  Federals 
under  General  Canby  and  the  Confederates  under 
General  Sibley. 

New  Mexico  is  named  in  honor  of  one  of  the  Gods 
of  the  Aztecs,  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  Mexico.  Col 
onized  by  Spaniards,  1582  ;  organized,  1850. 

Area,  122,580  square  miles  j  length,  eastern  bound- 


—  197  — 

ary,  345  miles;  western,  390  miles;  average  breadth, 
north  of  32°,  335  miles;  altitude,  3,000  to  4,000  ft. 

Temperature  at  Santa  Fe:  winter,  27°  to  37°; 
summer,  66°  to  70°.  Rainfall  at  Fort  Marcy,  17 
inches. 

Las  Vegas,  Silver  City  and  Albuquerque  are  grow 
ing  in  importance. 

Crops  abundant  wherever  water  can  be  obtained, 
and  corn  will  ripen  almost  anywhere;  6,660  square 
miles  irrigable  land;  number  of  farms,  5,053.  Total 
acreage  of  the  territory,  78,451,200;  in  farms,  631,131; 
in  forests,  219,224;  unoccupied,  77,820,069. 

Grazing  interest  extensive  and  valuable. 

Mineral  wealth  is  rapidly  developing.  Gold  is 
found  in  Grant,  Lincoln,  Colfax  and Bemalillo  counties; 
rich  copper  mines  on  the  San  Pedro  Grant,  in  Bcrna- 
lillo  county  and  in  the  Pinos  Altos  region.  Zinc,  quick 
silver,  lead,  manganese,  and  large  deposits  of  coal  have 
been  found.  Gold  production  in  1882,  was  $150,000; 
silver,  $1,800,000. 

Population,  119,565,  including  1,015  colored,  57 
Chinese  and  9, 772  Indians. 

School  population,  20,255;  school  age,  7-18. 

By  way  of  Fort  Worth,  on  the  Texas  Pacific  R.  R,, 
with  8,000  inhabitants  and  extensive  farms  in  its  neigh 
borhood,  and  Lampasas,  famous  for  the  gigantic  ranches 
in  the  vicinity,  I  proceeded  to  the  already  described 
city  of  Houston,  thence  to  New  Orleans,  where  the  In 
ternational  Exposition  was  held. 

Arrived  in  New  Orleans  toward  the  end  of  March, 


—  198  — 

I  prolonged  my  stay  in  that  city  till  the  close  of  the 
Exhibition,  on  the  1st  of  May,  1884,  and  started  for  the 
State  of  Alabama,  viz. :  Mobile. 

Mobile,  the  largest  city  and  only  seaport  of  Ala 
bama,  is  situated  on  the  W.  side  of  Mobile  river  above 
its  entrance  into  Mobile  Bay.  It  was  the  original 
seat  of  French  colonization  in  the  Southwest  and  for 
many  years  the  capital  of  the  colony  of  Louisiana. 
Historians  differ  as  to  the  precise  date  of  its  foundation, 
though  it  is  known,  that  as  early  as  1702.  there  was  a 
settlement,  a  little  above  the  present  site  of  the  city. 
In  1780,  England  surrendered  it  to  Spain,  and 
that  Government  made  it  over  to  the  United  States  in 
1813.  It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1819,  the 
population  being  then  about  800. 

Mobile  was  one  of  the  last  points  in  the  Confeder 
acy  occupied  by  the  Union  forces  during  the  late  war, 
and  was  not  finally  reduced  until  April  12,  1865,  three 
days  after  the  surrender  of  General  Lee.  On  August 
5,  1864,  the  harbor  fortifications  were  attacked  by 
Admiral  Farragut,  who  ran  his  fleet  past  the  forts,  and 
closed  the  harbor  against  blockade-runners,  though  he 
failed  to  capture  the  city  itself. 

The  trade  of  Mobile  is  much  hindered  by  the  shal- 
lowness  of  its  harbor. 

The  manufactures  include  carriages  and  furniture, 
paper,  foundries  and  machine-shops,  the  chief  business 
is  the  receipt  and  shipment  of  cotton,  coal  and  lumber. 

Its  population  is  nearly  32,000.  The  city  is  laid 
out  beautifully,  the  streets  adorned  with  shade-trees, 


—  199  — 

Fort  Morgan,  formerly  Fort  Bowyer,  on  Mobile  Point, 
and  Fort  Games,  on  the  S.  extremity  of  Dauphine 
Island,  command  the  entrance  to  the  harbor,  which  is 
about  30  miles  below  the  city.  Remains  of  batteries, 
erected  during  the  war,  are  still  seen  in  and  about  the 
harbor,  and  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Tensas  river  are  the 
ruins  of  Spanish  Fort  and  Fort  Blakely.  There  are 
some  costly  public  edifices,  f.  i.,  the  Custom  House, 
which  contains  the  Post  Office,  several  fine  churches, 
hospitals,  the  Barton  Academy,  the  Medical  College, 
and  6  miles  W.  of  the  City,  the  famous  College  of  St. 
Joseph,  a  Jesuit  institution,  in  which  is  a  valuable  col 
lection  of  scientific  apparatus,  and  a  library  with  8,000 
volumes. 

Montgomery,  the  capital  of  the  State,  is  not  very 
far  from  here,  and  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Alabama  river,  has  19,500  population,  and  from  Feb 
ruary  to  May,  1861,  was  the  first  Capital  of  the  Con 
federate  States.  The  principal  buildings  are;  the  U. 
S.  Court  House  and  Post  Office,  the  State  House,  the 
City  Hall  and  the  Court  House.  The  train  passes 
many  nice  villages,  and  crosses  one  of  the  most  pro 
ductive  portions  of  Alabama  on  its  course  from  Mobile, 
180  miles  distant. 

Other  excursions  I  did  not  make  in  this  State,  and 
therefore  reproduce  the  collected  statistics  of  it. 

The  name  of  Alabama  derives  from  an  Indian  word, 
signifying,  "Here  we  rest."  Settled  near  Mobile  Bay 
by  French,  1702,  admitted  as  a  State,  1819;  seceded 
1861;  re-admitted  1868. 


,_  200  — . 

Area,  52,250  square  miles  ;  length,  330  miles ; 
average  breadth,  154  miles ;  seacoast,  60  miles.  In 
land  steam  navigation  about  1?500  miles.  Mobile  is 
the  only  seaport. 

Temperature  at  Huntsville;  winter,  46°  to  52°  5 
summer,  79°  to  83 °,  rainfall  55  inches.  July  is  the 
hottest  month.  Fruit  trees  blossom  February  1st  to 
March  1st. 

Huntsville,  with  4,977  population,  is  the  northern 
trade  center,  Selma,  an  important  railroad  center,  and 
the  two  cities  Birmingham  and  Bradford,  very  import 
ant  manufacturing  centers,  especially  of  iron,  etc.,  and 
a  great  coal  trade  is  carried  on  in  them. 

Number  of  farms,  135,864.  Average  value  per 
acre,  cleared  land,  $6.53;  woodland,  $4.08.  Number 
of  industries,  2,070;  flour  and  grist  mills,  807;  saw 
mills,  354.  Mineral  regions  in  northeast  corner,  extend 
ing  southwest,  about  160  miles,  with  average  width  of 
about  80  miles,  contains  3  distinct  coal  fields,  area 
over  5,000  square  miles,  and  beds,  1  to  8  ft.  thick ; 
limestone,  sandstone  and  iron  near  the  coal. 

Population,  1,262,505,  inclusive  600,107  Negroes 
and  213  Indians.  Slaves,  in  1860,  435,080.  Number 
of  colleges,  4;  school  population,  401,002;  school  age 
7-21. 

En  route  to  Florida,  the  city  of  Jacksonville  was 
reached.  This  is  the  largest  city  in  Florida  and  is 
situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  St.  John's  River. 

Its  population  is  17,698,  and  with  the  suburbs, 
about  22,000.  The  bluffs  on  the  N.  E.  and  N.  W,  of 


—  201  — 

the  city  are  picturesque,  and  the  commerce  of  some 
importance. 

Cotton,  fruit,  sugar,  fish,  and  vegetables  are  shipped 
to  northern  and  foreign  ports.  The  main  temperature, 
69.6°;  the  coldest  month  (January),  52.7°;  the  hot 
test  month  (July),  83.4°.  There  are  several  fine 
drives  to  Moncrief  s  Spring  and  on  the  shell-road,  to  the 
Fair  Grounds. 

Sanford,  on  the  St.  John's  River,  lies  in  a  distance 
of  16  hours  steamship  ride  from  Jacksonville  and  near 
this  young,  but  rapidly  growing  city  are  a  number  of 
fine  orange-groves.  Opposite  from  Sanford  is  Enter 
prise,  one  of  the  most  popular  resorts  in  southern 
Florida  for  invalids.  Frederick  De  Bary,  the  well 
known  importer  of  New  York,  and  the  founder  of  the 
De  Bary  Steamship  Line  on  the  St.  John's,  has  his 
country-seat  here. 

The  St.  John's  River  has  its  sources  in  a  vast  ele 
vated  savanna  midway  down  the  peninsula,  flows  almost 
directly  N.  for  300  miles  to  Jacksonville,  and  then 
turning  E.  empties  into  the  Atlantic. 

Its  banks  are  lined  with  a  luxuriant  tropical  vege 
tation,  orange-groves,  shade-trees  and  picturesque  vil 
lages.  For  hundreds  of  miles  one  passes  through  a 
grand  forest  of  cypresses  robed  in  moss  and  mistletoe; 
of  palms  towering  gracefully  far  above  the  surrounding 
trees,  of  water-oak,  poplar  and  pine  trees,  and  where 
the  hammocks  rise  a  few  feet  above  the  water-level, 
the  olive,  cotton  tree,  juniper,  cedar,  the  sweet-bay  and 
live-oak  shoot  up  their  splendid  stems;  while  among 


—  202  — 

the  inferior  growths  and  shrubbery,  the  azalea,  agave, 
poppy,  the  mallow,  sumach,  the  sensitive  plant  and  the 
nettle  are  noted.  Vines,  the  wood-bine  and,  bignonia 
and  the  fox-grape  ran  in  these  thickets  and  clamber 
along  the  branches.  For  its  whole  length  the  river 
affords  glimpses  of  perfect  beauty. 

Green  Cove  Springs  takes  its  name  from  a  sulphur 
spring,  and  is  one  of  the  favorite  resorts,  3  miles  above 
Magnolia. 

Palatka,  admirably  situated  on  the  elavated  W. 
bank  of  the  river  is  the  largest  city  on  the  river  above 
Jacksonville,  its  population  is  5,000.  Above  Palatka 
the  vegetation  becomes  more  characteristically  tropi 
cal,  and  the  river  narrows  down  to  a  moderate-sized 
stream,  widening  out  at  last  only  to  be  merged  in 
Grand  and  Little  Lake  George,  Dexter's  Lake,  Lake 
Beresford,  and  Lake  Monroe,  at  Enterprise. 

Lake  George  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  lakes  in 
the  world,  6  miles  wide  and  over  13  miles  long,  and 
from  here  to  the  already  described  Sanford,  Drayton, 
an  island  in  the  lake,  and  embracing,  1,700  acres,  and 
Volusia,  5  miles  above  Lake  George,  a  landing  station, 
and  Orange  Grove,  Hawkinsville,  Blue  Spring  and 
Lake  Monroe  are  the  most  prominent  features. 

On  another  excursion  from  Jacksonville,  I  visited 
St.  Augustine,  situated  on  the  Atlantic  coast  of  Florida 
and  occupying  a  narrow  peninsula  formed  by  the 
Matanzas  River  and  the  St.  Sebastian.  All  the  old 
Spanish  residences  in  this  place,  which  contains  a  resi 
dent  population  of  2,200  (increased  in  the  winter  by 


—  203  — 

from  8,000  to  10,000  visitors)  are  built  of  coquina- 
stone,  those  of  the  American  residents  in  the  modern 
style. 

The  most  interesting  feature  of  St.  Augustine  is  the 
old  Fort  of  San  Marco,  built  of  coquina,  a  unique  con 
glomerate  of  fine  shells  and  sand  found  in  large  quanti 
ties  on  Anastasia  Island,  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor, 
and  quarried  with  great  ease.  The  Fort  was  100 
years  in  building  and  was  completed  in  1756,  as  is 
attested  by  the  following  inscription  over  the  gateway: 
"Don  Fernando  being  King  of  Spain,  and  the  Field- 
Marshal  Don  Alonzo  Fernando  Herida,  being  Governor 
and  Captain-General  of  this  place,  St.  Augustine  of 
Florida  and  its  provinces,  this  Fort  was  finished  in  the 
year  1756.  The  works  were  directed  by  the  Captain- 
Engineer  Don  Pedro  de  Brazos  y  Gareny." 

Its  dark  passages,  gloomy  vaults  and  recently-dis 
covered  dungeons  impress  the  visitor,  and  bring  one  to 
ready  credence  of  its  many  traditions  of  inquisitorial 
tortures;  of  decaying  skeletons,  found  in  the  latest 
opened  chambers,  chained  to  the  rusty  ring-bolts,  and 
of  aPeged  subterranean  passages  to  the  neighboring 
convent.  The  Sea- Wall  and  the  City  Gate  are  impos 
ing  structures  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation. 

In  the  old  Catholic  Cathedral,  one  of  the  bells 
bears  the  date  of  1682,  and  there  are  several  convents, 
and  the  Governors  Palace,  formerly  the  residence  of 
the  Spanish  Governors. 

The  old  Huguenot  Burying-Ground,  and  the  Mili 
tary  Burying-Ground  where  the  remains  of  those  who 


—  204  — 

fell  in  the  prolonged  Seminole  war  rest,  are  interesting. 

The  Soldiers7  Monument,  in  honor  of  the  Confederate 
dead,  was  erected  in  1871. 

The  climate  of  St.  Augustine  is  singularly  equable 
both  winter  and  summer  5  the  mean  annual  temperature 
being  70°. 

A  third  excursion  from  the  starting-point  Jackson 
ville  was  to  the  Ocklawaha  River.  The  river  empties 
into  the  St.  John's  about  25  miles  S.  of  Palatka, 
opposite  the  diminutive  town  of  Welaka  after  flowing 
for  about  250  miles  through  different  counties.  This 
excursion  was  made  up  the  Ocklawaha  to  Silver  Spring 
and  well  worth  making.  Alligators  of  immense  size 
are  numerous,  and  birds  of  the  most  curious  forms  and 
brilliant  plumage  are  seen  everywhere  on  this  trip. 
Silver  Spring,  said  to  be  the  traditional  "  Fountain  of 
Youth/'  has  wonderful  clear  waters,  and  on  the  bottom, 
80  ft.  below,  the  exact  form  of  the  smallest  pebble  is 
visible.  By  the  water  of  this  spring,  a  deep  river, 
100  ft.  wide,  is  formed,  and  known  as  Silver  Spring 
Creek. 

Of  other  curiosities  in  Florida  is  the  Indian  River 
Country,  a  long  lagoon,  beginning  near  the  lower  end 
of  Mosquito  Inlet.  The  water  of  this  lagoon  or  sea-arm 
is  salty,  though  it  receives  a  considerable  body  of  fresh 
water  through  Santa  Lucia  River,  an  outlet  of  the 
Everglades.  The  adjacent  lands  are  mostly  fertile, 
producing  abundantly  oranges,  lemons,  limes,  bananas, 
pineapples,  guavas,  grapes,  sugar-cane,  different  berries 
and  garden  vegetables. 


—  205  — 

The  climate  is  excellent  and  the  tropical  scenery 
delightful.  It  was  by  one  of  the  many  southern  out 
lets  of  Indian  River  that  General  Breckenridge  escaped 
to  Nassau  after  the  collapse  of  the  Confederacy. 

155  miles  W.  of  Jacksonville  is  the  beautifully 
located  capital  of  the  State,  the  city  of  Tallahassee. 
The  abundance  and  variety  of  its  flowers  and  shrubs 
give  it  the  appearance  of  a  garden. 

There  are  some  fine  public  buildings  in  which  is 
included  the  Capitol,  the  Court  House,  and  the  West 
Florida  Seminary.  The  climate  is  very  healthy,  and 
the  Lakes  Bradford,  Jackson  and  Lafayette  very  attrac 
tively  situated  in  its  neighborhood. 

The  Wakula  Spring,  an  immense  lime-stone  basin, 
106  ft.  deep,  with  crystalline  clear  water,  and  so  copi 
ous  that  a  river  is  formed  at  its  very  start,  is  reckoned 
among  the  chief  wonders  of  Florida. 

The  Gulf  coast  of  Florida  has  already  been  parti 
ally  described  by  me,  and  after  leaving  this  State,  I 
entered  an  other  southern  State:  the  " Empire  State  of 
the  South,"  Georgia. 

The  discoverer  of  Florida,  the  " Peninsula  State," 
landed  on  Easter  Sunday,  or  "  Flowery  Easter,"  hence 
the  name. 

Settled  by  Spaniards  at  St.  Augustine,  1565;  or 
ganized  as  a  territory,  1822  ;  admitted  as  a  State, 
1845;  seceded  1861;  re-admitted,  1868. 

Area,  58,680  square  miles ;  coast  line,  1,146  miles, 
472  being  on  Atlantic;  length,  north  and  south, 
350  miles;  length,  east  and  west,  340  miles;  mean 


—  206  — 

width  of  peninsula,  100  miles;  greatest  elevation, 
250  ft. 

Temperature  at  Jacksonville:  winter,  55°  to  61°; 
summer,  80°  to  83°.  Rainfall  at  Fort  Myers,  57  inches. 

Pensacola  has  a  population  of  6,845.  Number  of 
farms,  23,438;  owned  by  State,  15,000,000  acres; 
value  per  acre,  cleared  land,  $9.48;  woodland,  $3.03; 
swamp,  $1.00;  school  lands,  $1.25. 

Corn  most  valuable  crop.  Over  three  million 
orange  trees  planted  since  1870  and  millions  of  oranges 
exported  yearly. 

Population,  269,493,  inclusive  126,690  negroes,  and 
180  Indians.  Slaves,  in  1860,  61,745. 

Betters  on  elections  and  duelists  excluded  from 
voting. 

School  population,  88, 677 ;  enrolled  in  public  schools, 
39,315;  school  age,  4-21. 

Per  steamship  I  arrived  in  the  city  of  Savannah, 
the  chief  city  and  commercial  metropolis  of  Georgia, 
situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Savannah  river.  Its 
streets  are  broad  and  beautifully  shaded,  and  contain 
at  many  of  the  crossings  small  public  parks,  of  which 
there  are  24  in  the  city.  It  is  universally  conceded 
that  Savannah  is  one  of  the  handsomest  cities  in 
America. 

The  chief  business  of  the  place  is  in  cotton,  though 
the  trade  in  lumber  is  also  considerable.  As  a  cotton 
port  it  ranks  second  in  the  Union.  The  chief  manu 
facturing  establishments  are  plaining  mills,  foundries, 
and  flour  and  grist  mills. 


—  207  — 

Of  noteworthy  buildings,  Savannah  possesses  sev 
eral,  among  these  are  the  Custom  House,  the  Court 
House,  the  Post  Office,  Exchange,  the  U.  S.  Barracks, 
the  Police  Barracks,  Artillery,  Armory  and  Jail.  Chat 
ham  Academy  and  St.  Andrews  Hall  are  conspicuous 
structures.  The  Masonic  Hall  building  is  interesting 
as  the  place  where  the  Ordinance  of  Secession  was 
passed,  January  21st,  1861.  Four  years  later,  on 
December  28th,  1864,  a  meeting  of  citizens  Avas  held 
in  the  same  apartment  to  commemorate  the  triumph  of 
the  Union  arms.  The  Georgia  Historical  Society  has 
a  fine  library  and  some  interesting  relics.  The  Telfair 
Academy  of  Arts,  McCarthy's  Business  College,  and 
the  Savannah  Medical  College  are  famous  educational 
institutions,  there  are  also  several  very  fine  churches 
in  the  city. 

The  most  attractive  place  of  public  resort  is  Forsyth 
Park  with  a  handsome  fountain  and  the  stately  Con 
federate  Monument.  The  Pulaski  Monument  is  one  of 
the  most  perfect  specimens  of  monumental  architecture 
in  the  United  States,  and  appropriately  covers  the  spot 
where  Pulaski  fell,  during  an  attack  upon  the  city 
while  it  was  occupied  by  the  British,  in  1779. 

The  drives  are  of  great  beauty,  the  most  prominent : 
to  Bonaventure  Cemetery  with  its  magnificent  scenery. 
1  mile  beyond  Bonaventure  is  Thunderbolt,  also  a  popu 
lar  drive,  and  according  to  local  tradition,  deriving  its 
name  from  the  fall  of  a  thunderbolt  which  caused  the 
issue  of  a  spring  of  wrater  from  the  spot,  flowing  ever 
since. 


—  208  — 

Augusta,  with  a  population  of  32,000,  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  cities  in  the  South.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Savannah  river  and  contains  the  finest  monument  in 
the  South,  the  Confederate  Monument,  another  monu 
ment  is  that  which  was  erected  in  1849,  to  the  memory 
of  the  Georgian  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Indepen 
dence.  Augusta  has  very  fine  buildings  and  a  prosper 
ous  commerce  and  extensive  manufactures.  A  fine 
view  of  the  city  is  obtained  at  Summerville,  a  suburban 
town,  where  the  U.  S.  Arsenal  and  the  range  of  work 
shops,  built  and  used  by  the  Confederates  during  the 
war,  are  located.  An  excursion  trip  brought  me  to 
Macon,  a  very  prosperous  and  picturesque  city  with 
20,000  inhabitants,  on  the  Ocmulgee  river.  Here  are 
several  important  iron-foundries,  machine-shops,  cotton 
and  carriage  manufactures,  and  flour-mills.  The  Mer 
cer  University  is  a  prosperous  institution,  and  the  Pio 
Nono  College,  the  Wesley  an  Female  College,  and  the 
State  Academy  for  the  Blind  are  spacious  and  impos 
ing  buildings.  Rose  Hill  Cemetery  is  considered  one 
of  the  finest  burial-grounds  in  America. 

Atlanta  was  the  last  place  in  the  State  which  I 
visited.  It  is  the  capital  and  the  most  important  com 
mercial  city  in  the  State,  except  in  the  cotton-trade, 
and  has  a  population  of  50,000  (in  1880).  It  is  the 
great  center  of  railroads,  is  picturesquely  situated  upon 
hilly  ground,  1,100  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  is  laid  out  in 
the  form  of  a  circle.  Its  public  buildings  are  of  im 
mense  proportions  and  beauty. 

Its  position  made  it   of  vital  importance    to   the 


—  209  — 

Southern  cause,  and  with  its  capture  by  General  Sher 
man,  September  2d,  1 864,  the  Confederacy's  doom  was 
sealed.  Before  abandoning  the  city,  to  fall  back  on 
Macon,  General  Hood  set  fire  to  all  machinery-stores, 
and  war  munitions  which  he  could  not  remove,  and  in 
the  conflagration  the  greater  part  of  the  city  was  re 
duced  to  ashes.  In  1868  Atlanta  was  made  the  State 
capital. 

Georgia,  the  Empire  State  of  the  South,  is  the 
farthest  south  and  latest  settled  of  the  13  original  States, 
named  in  honor  of  George  II.,'  King  of  England;  settled 
by  English  at  Savannah,  1753;  seceded,  January,  1861  ; 
re-admitted,  December,  1870. 

Area,  59,475  square  miles;  extreme  length,  320 
miles ;  extreme  breadth,  254  miles ;  coast  line,  480  miles ; 
number  of  harbors,  3.  Savanna,  Ogeechee,  Altamaha, 
Satilla,  St.  Mary's,  Flint,  Chattahoochee  and  Upper 
Coosa  are  navigable  rivers. 

Temperature  at  Augusta:  winter,  46°  to  52°;  sum 
mer,  79°  to  83°.  Rainfall  at  Savannah,  48  inches. 

Savannah,  Brunswick  and  St.  Mary's  are  ports  of 
entry.  Columbus  contains  the  largest  cotton-mill  in 
the  South.  Andersonville  was  the  seat  of  the  largest 
rebel  prison  during  the  civil  war. 

Number  of  farms,  62,003  in  1860,  and  138,626  in 
1880.  Average  value  per  acre,  cleared  land,  $6.93; 
wroodland,  $5.45.  72  per  cent,  of  laborers  engaged  in 
agriculture;  rural  income,  $155  per  individual.  Ranks 
second  in  rice  and  sweet  potatoes.  Latest  mining  re 
ports  give  100,000  tons  of  coal  and  91, 416  tons  of  iron  ore. 

14 


—  210  — 

Population,  1,542,180,  incl.  725,133  colored;  17 
Chinese  and  124  Indians. 

Non-taxpayers  are  excluded  from  voting. 

I  could  not  obtain  the  School  Statistics  of  this 
State. 

From  Atlanta  I  proceeded  to  Charleston,  which  was 
settled  in  1679  by  an  English  colony  under  William 
Sayle,  who  became  the  first  Governor. 

It  played  a  conspicuous  part  in  the  Revolution, 
having  been  the  first  among  the  chief  places  of  the 
South  to  assert  a  common  cause  with  and  fur  the 
colonies.  It  was  thrice  assaulted  by  the  British,  and 
only  yielded  to  a  6  weeks  siege  by  an  overwhelming 
force,  May  12th,  1780.  It  was  the  leading  city,  both 
in  the  nullification  movement  during  Jackson's  ad 
ministration  and  the  incipient  stages  of  Southern 
secession.  Open  hostilities  in  the  civil  war  began  at 
Charleston,  with  the  bombardment  of  Fort  Sumter,  on 
April  12th,  1861;  and  for  the  next  4  years  it  was 
one  of  the  chief  points  of  Federal  attack,  without  being 
lost  by  the  Confederates,  however,  until  General 
Sherman's  capture  of  Columbia,  on  February  17th, 
1863.  During  the  war  many  buildings  were  destroyed^ 
and  the  towers  and  steeples  of  churches  riddled  with 
shot  and  shell.  Since  its  close,  rapid  progress  has 
been  made  in  the  work  of  rebuilding,  and  Charleston  is 
now  more  prosperous  than  ever.  It  has  about  50,000 
inhabitants.  The  commerce  of  the  city  is  very  large, 
the  chief  exports  being  cotton,  rice,  naval  stores  and 
fertilizers.  The  manufacture  of  fertilizers  from  the 


—  211  — 

valuable  beds  of  marl  and  phosphates  (fossiles),  dis 
covered  in  1868,  is  now  one  of  the  principal  industries. 
There  are  also  flour  and  rice  mills,  bakeries,  carriage 
and  wagon  factories  and  machine-shops.  Lumber  is 
taking  a  place  among  the  leading  articles  of  exports. 
Ever  since  my  stay  in  Charleston,  the  city  has  been 
visited  by  several  earthquakes  which  were  very  detri 
mental,  and  nearly  the  whole  region  along  the  river 
was  inundated  and  the  houses  destroyed. 

Charleston  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Ashley  and  Cooper  rivers,  in  lat.  32°  45'  N.,  and  Ion. 
79°  57'  W. 

Of  the  public  buildings  of  Charleston,  several  are, 
or  were  of  imposing  beauty,  viz.:  the  IT.  S.  Custom 
House,  the  City  Hall  and  the  Old  Orphan  House. 
The  College  of  Charleston,  the  Medical  College  and 
Roper  Hospital,  the  City  Hospital,  the  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  the  Masonic  Temple,  the  U.  S.  Court  House, 
the  Charleston  Library,  Academy  of  Music,  the  County 
Jail,  and  the  South  Carolina  Society  Hall  are  more  or 
less  handsome  structures.  St.  Michael's  and  St.  Philip's 
Church,  the  former  a  venerable  old  structure,  are  very 
famous.  In  the  portion  of  the  grave  yard  lying  across 
the  street  is  the  tomb  of  John  C.  Calhoun.  In  the  old 
Huguenot  Church,  the  quaint  and  elegant  mural  entab 
latures  with  which  its  walls  are  lined  can  be 
seen. 

15  miles  from  here  is  the  old  Church  of  St.  James, 
on  Goose  Creek,  built  in  1711.  The  harbor  of  Charles 
ton  is  a  large  estuary,  extending  7  miles  to  the  Atlantic. 


—  212  — 

The  passage  to  the  inner  harbor  is  defended  by  4 
fortresses. 

Fort  Surnter,  rendered  famous  by  the  part  which  it 
played  in  the  opening  scene  of  the  Civil  War  lies  upon 
a  shoal  in  the  harbor,  covering  the  channel.  Sullivan's 
Island,  the  "Long  Branch"  of  South  Carolina,  and 
Mount  Pleasant,  in  the  vicinity,  are  public  resorts  and 
much  frequented. 

Aiken  is  among  the  most  famous  and  frequented 
winter-resorts  in  America.  It  lies  on  an  elevated 
plateau,  about  700  ft.  above  the  sea  and  the  land  con 
sists  of  almost  unmixed  sand,  covered  by  a  scanty  crust 
of  alluvium,  which  bears  but  little  grass,  only  the  great 
southern  pine  grows  here  abundantly  and  pine-forests 
encircle  the  town. 

The  natural  barrenness  of  the  soil  has  been  over 
come  within  the  city  by  careful  culture  and  liberal  use 
of  fertilizers,  and  every  house  has  its  garden  with  trees 
and  southern  plants.  Inside  the  white  palings  arc 
dense  thickets  of  yellow  jasmine,  rose-bushes,  orange, 
wild-olive,  and  fig  trees,  bamboo,  Spanish  bayonet,  and 
a  great  many  vines  and  creepers,  but,  without  the 
palings,  the  soil  is  as  dry  and  white  as  it  is  upon  the 
sea-shore.  The  air  is  remarkably  pure  and  dry,  and  the 
average  temperature  is  63.1£°.  In  this  place  I  had  the 
honor  to  form  the  acquaintance  of  the  botanist  Ravenel. 

The  capital  of  the  State,  Columbia,  is  a  beautiful 
city,  situated  on  the  bluffs  of,  and  15  ft.  above  the 
Congaree,  on  an  elevated  level  plateau,  a  few  miles  be 
low  the  charming  falls  of  the  river. 


—  213  — 

During  the"  occupation  by  Sherman's  forces  in 
February  1865,  the  city  was  considerably  changed 
through  the  unfortunate  conflagration  which  destroyed 
a  large  part  of  it.  There  are  several  handsome  public 
and  private  buildings,  2  Seminaries,  the  University  of 
South  Carolina,  the  Executive  Mansion  and  the  State 
House  (unfinished),  the  Lunatic  Asylum,  State  Peni 
tentiary,  the  U.  S.  Court  House  and  Post  Office,  the  City 
Hall,  several  Academies,  and  the  Market-House,  in 
Columbia.  The  car-shops  of  the  E.  E.  Company  cover 
4  acres  of  ground  and  there  are  other  large  manufac 
turing  establishments.  In  the  N.  W.  of  the  city  are 
the  Fair  Grounds  of  the  South  Carolina  Agricultural 
and  Mechanical  Society. 

The  "Palmetto  State,'7  South  Carolina,  was  named 
in  honor  of  Charles  II.  of  England,  by  whom  the  pro 
vince  was  created  in  1663.  It  is  one  of  the  13  original 
States.  First  permanent  settlement  made  by  the  English 
at  Port  Koyal,  1670.  Famous  nullification  troubles 
occurred  1832-33;  led  by  J.  C.  Calhoun,  and  opposed 
vigorously  by  President  Jackson,  during  which  his 
famous  expression  "by  the  Eternal"  was  first  used. 

Seceded  November,  1860;  re-admitted  June,  1868. 

Area,  30,170  square  miles;  extreme  length,  275 
miles;  greatest  breadth,  210  miles;  coast  line,  200  miles. 
Largest  rivers,  Savannah,  Great  Pee  Dee,  Santee  and 
Edisto. 

Temperature  at  Charleston:  summer,  79°  to  83°; 
winter,  50°  to  54°;  rainfall,  43  inches;  frosts  seldom 
occur. 


—  214  — 

United  States  customs  districts  at  Beaufort,  Charles 
ton  and  Georgetown. 

First  railroad  to  use  American  locomotives,  the 
South  Carolina,  built  1830-33. 

Number  of  farms,  93,864.  Average  value  per 
acre,  cleared  land,  $6.24  5  wood  land,  $3.65. 

Number  of  flour  and  grist  mills,  720. 

Ranks  first  in  phosphates.  Gold  mines  in  Abbe 
ville,  Edgefield  and  Union  Counties.  White  and  vari 
egated  marbles  found  in  Spartanburgh  and  Laurens 
Counties. 

Population,  955,577,  including   604,332   Colored,  9 
Chinese,  and  131  Indians. 

Slaves,  in  1860,  402,406. 

U.  S.  Army  and  duelists  excluded  from  voting. 
Number  of  colleges,  9  ;  school  population,  262,279  ; 
school  age,  6—16. 

On  the  road  to  the  Lookout  Mountain — my  next 
exploration-tour — I  visited  Chattanooga,  a  city  of  30,000 
inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Tennessee  River  near 
where  the  S.  boundary  of  Tennessee  touches  Alabama 
and  Georgia.  7  railroads  converge  here.  Chattanooga 
is  a  very  important  shipping-point  and  contains  a  num 
ber  of  iron-mills,  blast-furnaces  and  cotton  factories. 
It  is  the  seat  of  the  Methodist  University.  During  the 
war  Chattanooga  was  an  important  strategic  point  for 
the  operations  in  Tennessee  and  Georgia,  and  played 
a  prominent  part  in  most  of  the  campaigns  in  this  region. 
Above  the  city  the  celebrated  Lookout  Mountain  towers 
to  the  height  of  2,200  ft.  above  the  sea.  It  was  on  this 


—  215  — 

Mountain  that  the  battle  was  fought  "  above  the 
clouds."  The  points  on  the  Lookout  worth  visiting  are 
Lake  Seclusion,  Lulah  Falls,  Rock  City  and  the 
Battle-field. 

I  next  put  up  at  Knoxville,  a  city  of  12,000  popu 
lation,  situated  on  the  Holston  River,  4  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  the  French  Broad.  It  is  fyuilt  on  a 
healthy  and  elevated  site  and  is  the  principal  commer 
cial  place  in  E.  Tennesee,  with  some  manufactures. 
The  East  Tennessee  University,  with  which  is  connec 
ted  the  State  Agricultural  College,  the  Knoxville  Uni 
versity,  the  Freeman's  Normal  School,  and  the  State 
Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  are  located  here. 
The  Cranberry-Region  Magnet-iron-works,  close  to  the 
boundaries  of  North  Carolina,  are  almost  uniques  in  the 
world,  and  offered  me  many  interesting  features. 

On  account  of  the  far  advanced  season  I  was  unable 
to  visit  the  city  of  Memphis  and  gathered  all  possible 
data  concerning  this  city,  which  I  here  cite  as  they 
were  given  to  me  officially. 

Memphis  is  the  second  city  of  Tennessee,  it  is  situ 
ated  on  the  fourth  Chickasaw  bluff,  and  had  in  1880  a 
population  of  33,593.  Memphis  has  an  immense  rail 
road — and  on  the  Mississippi  an  important  steamboat- 
traffic,  and  is  regularly  laid  out.  The  cotton  trade  and 
its  manufactures  are  very  large.  In  the  center  of  the 
city  is  a  handsome  park,  and  the  public  buildings  and 
private  residences  of  exceedingly  pretty  forms. 

Memphis  was  captured  by  the  Federals  early  in  the 
war  (June  6;  1862),  and  was  never  afterward  held  by 


—  216  — 

the  Confederates.  A  short  distance  below  Memphis 
the  Mississippi  turns  toward  the  W.,  and  crosses  its 
valley  to  meet  the  waters  of  the  Arkansas  and  White 
rivers.  The  latter  enters  the  Mississippi  161  miles 
below  Memphis,  and  the  former  about  15  miles  further 
down.  The  Arkansas  river  is  2,000  miles  in  Jength, 
for  800  of  which  it  is  navigable  by  steamers.  It  rises 
in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and,  next  to  the  Missouri, 
is  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  capital  and  largest  city  in  the  State  in  point  of 
population  (45,000),  is  Nashville,  on  the  S.  bank  of 
the  Cumberland  river,  200  miles  above  its  junction 
with  the  Ohio,  and  built  on  irregular  gradual  rising 
land.  It  has  numerous  imposing  buildings,  among 
which  the  Capitol,  constructed  inside  and  outside  of  a 
beautiful  variety  of  fossiliferous  lime-stone  is  pre 
eminent. 

The  University  of  Nashville,  with  a  fine  museum, 
the  Fisk  University,  the  Tennessee  Central  College, 
Vanderbilt  University,  etc.,  are  fine  educational  insti 
tutions,  and  there  are  numerous  others.  The  State 
Penitentiary  is  located  here  and  the  manufactures  are 
varied  and  important.  12  miles  E.  of  Nashville  is  the 
"  Hermitage, "  the  celebrated  residence  of  Andrew 
Jackson. 

In  November,  1864,  the  Confederate  General  Hood, 
having  lost  Atlanta,  placed  his  army  in  Sherman's 
rear  and  began  an  invasion  of  Tennessee.  After  severe 
fighting  with  General  Schofield  on  November  30,  he 
advanced  upon  Nashville  and  shut  up  General  Thomas 


—  217  — 

within  its  fortifications.  For  two  weeks  little  was  done 
on  either  side.  When  Thomas  was  fully  ready,  he 
suddenly  sallied  out  on  Hood,  and,  in  a  terrible  two 
day's  battle,  drove  the  Confederate  forces  out  of  their 
intrenchments  into  headlong  flight.  The  Union  cavalry 
pursued  them,  the  infantry  following  close  behind,  and 
the  entire  Confederate  Army,  except  the  rear-guard, 
which  fought  bravely  to  the  last,  was  broken  into  a 
rabble  of  demoralized  fugitives,  which  at  last  escaped 
across  the  Tennessee.  For  the  first  time  in  the  war 
an  Army  was  destroyed;  and  General  Sherman  started 
on  his  famous  march  to  the  sea. 

The  "Big  Bend  State,'7  Tennessee,  whose  name 
derived  from  u  Tannassee/'  Indian  name  for  Little 
Tennessee  Eiver,  was  first  settled  permanently,  on 
Tennessee  river,  in  1756,  about  30  miles  from  present 
site  of  Knoxville  ;  first  Anglo-American  settlement 
west  of  the  Alleghanies  and  south  of  Pennsylvania  5  ad 
mitted,  1845;  seceded,  February,  1861;  re-admitted, 
1868. 

Area,  42,650  square  miles;  greatest  length,  east 
and  west,  432  miles;  greatest  breadth,  109  miles. 

Temperature  at  Nashville:  winter,  37°  to  48°; 
summer,  75°  to  81°.  Rainfall  at  Memphis,  45 
inches. 

Memphis,  principal  grain  and  cotton  market  be 
tween  St.  Louis  and  New  Orleans.  Number  of  farms, 
165,650.  Value  per  acre,  cleared  land,  $13.00;  wood 
land,  $7.28.  Most  valuable  minerals  are  iron,  copper 
soal;  area  coal  fields,  over  5,000  square  miles; 


—  218  — 

copper  region   in  southwest;    excellent  marbles  and 
limestones. 

Ranks  second  in  peanuts.  Hemp,  broom  corn  and 
flax  are  also  valuable  products.  Population,  1,542,- 
359,  incl.  403,151  colored,  25  Chinese  and  352  Indians, 
Slaves  in  1860,  275,719. 

Non-payers  of  poll-tax  excluded  from  voting.  School 
population,  unknown. 

I  now  started  for  the  mountain  region  of  North 
Carolina  where  the  Appalachian  system  reaches  its 
loftiest  altitude,  presents  scenes  of  beauty  and  sublimity 
unsurpassed  by  anything  E.  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
It  consists  of  an  elevated  table-land,  250  miles  long 
and  about  50  broad,  encircled  by  two  great  mountain- 
chains,  the  Blue  Ridge  on  the  E.  and  the  Great  Smoky 
on  the  W.,  and  traversed  by  cross-chains  that  run 
directly  across  the  country,  and  from  which  spurs  of 
greater  or  lesser  height  lead  off  in  all  directions.  Of 
these  transverse  ranges  there  are  four:  the  Black,  the 
Balsam,  the  Cullowhee,  and  the  Nantahala. 

Between  each  lies  a  region  of  valleys,  formed  by 
the  noble  rivers  and  their  minor  tributaries. 

Clingman's  Dome  rises  to  the  height  of  6,660  ft. 
Mount  Mitchell,  the  loftiest  summit  E.  of  the  Missis 
sippi,  is  the  dominating  peak  of  the  Black  Mountain 
group  of  the  colossal  heights,  the  most  famous  of  the 
transverse  ranges.  With  its  two  great  branches  it  is 
over  20  miles  long,  and  its  rugged  sides  are  covered 
with  a  wilderness  of  almost  impenetrable  forest.  Above 
a  certain  elevation,  no  trees  are  found  save  the  balsam- 


—  219  — 

fir,  from  the  dark  color  of  which  the  mountain  takes  its 
name.  N.  of  the  Black  Mountain  stand  two  famous 
heights,  these  are  the  Grandfather  Mountain  in  the 
Blue  Ridge  and  Roan  Mountain  in  the  Smoky. 

The  Balsam,  which  in  length  and  general  magni 
tude  is  chief  of  the  cross  ranges,  is  50  miles  long,  and 
its  peaks  average  6,000  ft.  in  height.  From  its  S. 
extremity  two  great  spurs  run  out  in  a  northerly  direc 
tion  j  one  terminates  in  the  Cold  Mountain,  which  is 
over  6,000  ft.  high,  and  the  other  in  the  beautiful 
peak  of  Pisgah,  which  is  one  of  the  most  noted  land 
marks  of  the  region. 

Asheville,  situated  in  the  lovely  valley  of  the 
French  Broad  River,  2,250  ft.  above  the  sea,  sur 
rounded  by  an  amphitheatre  of  hills,  commands  one  of 
the  finest  mountain- views  in  America. 

Morgantown  is  a  popular  resort,  and  is  situated  on 
the  slopes  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  1,100  ft.  above  the  sea. 
About  15  miles  W.  of  Morgantown  on  the  Glen  Alpine 
Springs  with  Lithia  waters,  and  25  miles  from  the 
former  is  the  Grand  Linville  Gorge,  where  the  Lin- 
ville  River  bursts  through  the  massive  barrier  of  the 
Linville  Mountains. 

Resuming  my  journey  per  Western  North  Carolina 
R.  R.,  I  arrived  at  Raleigh,  the  capital  of  the  State, 
with  8,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  an  elevation  6 
miles  W.  of  the  Neuse  River  and  a  little  N.  E.  of  the 
center  of  the  State. 

The  State  House  is  built  after  the  model  of  the  Par 
thenon.  The  U.  S.  Custom  House  and  Post  Office, 


—  220  — 

the  State  Geological  Museum,  the  Institution  for  the 
Deaf  and  .Dumb,  the  State  Insane  Asylum,  and  the 
Penitentiary  are  fine  structures. 

North  Carolina,  the  "Old  North  State/7  or  "Tar 
State,"  is  one  of  the  13  original  States  and  was  dis 
covered  by  Lord  Raleigh,  1584,  settled  by  the  English 
at  Albemarle,  1650;  seceded,  May,  1861;  re-admitted, 
June,  1868. 

Area,  52,250  square  miles;  length,  450  miles; 
breadth,  185  miles;  coast  line,  over  400  miles;  area 
dismal  swamp,  150,000  acres. 

Temperature  at  Wilmington:  winter,  46°  to  51°; 
summer,  76°  to  80°.  Frost  seldom  occurs  before 
November.  Rainfall  at  Gaston,  43  inches.  Deaths  by 
consumption,  1.5,  per  1,000  of  population. 

Wilmington,  principal  seaport  and  chief  city,  with 
13,446  population.  Charlotte  contains  assay  office. 

Farms  in  1860,  75,203,  increased  to  157,609  in 
1880;  average  value  per  acre,  cleared  land,  $9.77; 
woodland,  $5.53. 

Agriculture  the  leading  industry ;  corn  the  most 
valuable  crop;  tobacco  the  leading  product,  and  orch 
ards  very  productive.  Ranks  first  in  tar  and  turpen 
tine,  and  second  in  copper.  Number  of  different  in 
dustries,  3,802;  flour  and  grist-mills,  1,313;  saw 
mills,  776.  About  3,000  boats  are  engaged  in  general 
fisheries. 

Population,  1,399,750,  with  531,278  Colored,  and 
1,230  Indians.  Slaves,  1860,  331,059. 

Public    school   system  adopted    1840;   at   present 


—  221  — 

over  2,000  public  schools  in  operation;  school  age, 
6-21. 

The  road  to  Richmond,  Virginia,  is  admirably 
pretty.  The  scenery  and  the  distant  mountain  ranges, 
changing  their  contures,  the  farther  one  proceeds,  is  of 
an  extraordinary  brilliancy,  and  many  lovely  little 
places,  dense  forests,  and  well-cultivated  fields  and 
meadows  are  passed  before  Richmond  is  reached. 

This  metropolis  of  the  State  of  Virginia  and  its 
capital  is  situated  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  James  river, 
about  100  miles  from  Chesapeake  Bay.  It  is  built  on 
several  eminences,  the  principal  of  which  are :  separated 
by  Shockoe  '  Creek,  Church  and  Shockoe  Hills,  sur 
rounded  by  beautiful  scenery. 

Richmond  was  founded  1737,  incorporated  1742, 
and  became  the  State  capital  in  1779,  when  it  was  a 
small  village. 

In  1861  great  prominence  was  given  to  it  as  the 
capital  of  the  Southern  Confederacy,  and  one  of  the 
great  aims  of  the  Federal  authorities,  throughout 
the  war,  was  to  reduce  it  into  their  possession.  Strong 
lines  of  earth-works  were  drawn  around  the  place  by 
the  Confederates,  and  are  yet  to  be  seen.  When 
General  Lee  evacuated  Petersburg,  April  2d,  1865,  the 
troops  defending  Richmond  on  the  E.  were  withdrawn, 
and  to  prevent  the  tobacco  warehouses  and  public  stores 
from  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  Federals,  the  build 
ings,  together  with  the  bridges  over  the  James  river, 
were  fired.  This  resulted  in  the  destruction  of  a  large 
part  of  the  business  section  of  the  city,  the  number  of 


—  222  — 

buildings  destroyed  having  been  estimated  at  1,000, 
and  the  loss  at  $8,000,000. 

With  the  cessation  of  hostilities,  the  burned  quar 
ters  were  rebuilt,  and  at  present  Richmond  is  surpass 
ing  its  former  prosperity, 

In  1880,  the  population  was  63,803.  The  com 
merce  is  very  large,  the  chief  articles  of  export  being 
tobacco  and  flour.  The  manufactures  include  iron 
works,  machine-shops,  foundries,  sugar-refineries,  cigar- 
factories,  furniture,  sheetings  and  shirtings,  coach  and 
wagon-factories  and  stoneware. 

The  most  conspicuous  object  in  the  city,  is  the 
State  Capitol.  The  plan  for  the  building  was  furnished 
by  Thomas  Jefferson,  and  is  after  the  Maison  carree  at 
Nismes,  in  France.  In  the  State  Library  are  40,000 
volumes.  The  equestrian  statue  of  Washington,  sur 
rounded  by  bronze  figures  of  famous  Americans  is  of 
a  colossal  size  and  is  one  of  the  finest  bronzes  in  the 
world. 

The  Historical  Society  Collections,  and  not  far 
from  it,  the  life-size  marble  statue  of  Henry  Clay,  and 
the  statue  of  General  "  Stonewall  Jackson,  of  heroic 
size,  are  well  worth  seeing. 

The  Medical  College,  Richmond  College  and  the 
Southern  Female  Institute,  are  famous  schools  of  learn 
ing.  The  Brockenbrough  House,  formerly  the  resi 
dence  of  Jefferson  Davis,  President  of  the  Southern 
Confederacy,  is  now  used  as  a  school-house.  The 
Almshouse,  State  Penitentiary  and  the  Mozart  Academy 
of  Music  are  fine  edifices,  as  are  the  Churches  St. 


—  223  — 

John's  (Episcopal),  Monumental  Church  and  St.  Paul's 
(also  Episcopal). 

Libby  Prison  and  Belle  Isle  retain  some  interest  as 
military  prisons  during  the  late  civil  war. 

Of  the  several  cemeteries  of  Richmond,  Hollywood 
is  the  principal,  in  it  lay  the  remains  of  President 
Monroe  and  of  President  Tyler.  In  the  soldiers  sec 
tion  rise<s  a  monumental  pyramid  in  honor  of  the  dead. 
5  bridges  across  the  river  connect  Richmond  with 
Spring  Hill  and  Manchester,  the  latter  a  pretty  town 
with  2  fine  cotton-mills.  The  Tredegar  Iron- Works, 
which  were  the  great  cannon  manufactory  of  the  Con 
federacy,  are  worth  a  visit,  covering  over  15  acres  of 
ground,  and  the  Gallego  and  Haxall  Flour-Mills  are 
among  the  largest  in  the  world. 

A  few  hours  ride  from  the  city  bring  the  traveler 
to  several  battle-fields  and  National  Cemeteries. 

Boarding  a  train  of  the  Wilmington  and  Florence 
E.  R.,  and  crossing  the  James  River,  the  well  built 
city  of  Petersburg  was  reached.  It  it  situated  at  the 
head  of  navigation  on  the  Appomattox  River,  12  miles 
above  its  entrance  into  the  James.  Its  trade  is  large  j 
tobacco,  wheat,  corn,  cotton  and  general  country  pro 
duce,  the  chief  business.  In  1880,  Petersburg  had 
23,000  population.  There  are  some  fine  public  buildings. 

Petersburg  was  the  scene  of  the  last  great  struggles 
during  the  late  civil  war  and  is  now  prospering. 

Norfolk  was  next  visited.  The  city  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Elizabeth  River,  8  miles 
from  Hampton  Roads  and  32  miles  from  the  ocean. 


—  224  — 

After  Richmond  it  is  the  most  populous  city  in  the 
State,  with  26,000  inhabitants  and  a  large  trade. 
Oysters,  early  fruits  and  vegetables  arrive  here  in 
large  quantities,  and  are  shipped  to  Northern  ports. 
Its  harbor  is  defended  by  Fortress  Monroe  and  the 
Eip  Raps,  this  Fortress  being  the  largest  in  America 
and  having  Hampton  in  its  vicinity,  where  the  National 
Soldiers  Home  and  the  Normal  and  Agricultural  Insti 
tute  for  colored  people  and  Indians,  the  most  interest 
ing  institutions  in  the  country,  are  located.  9  miles 
from  Fortress  Monroe,  on  Hampton  Roads,  is  Newport 
News,  famous  for  the  great  historic  interest  in  connec 
tion  with  the  Revolutionary  War  and  the  late  Civil 
War. 

The  city  of  Norfolk  is  irregularly  laid  out,  but  the 
streets  are  generally  wide  and  the  houses  well  built; 
some  of  its  churches  very  fine  structures.  Norfolk 
was  founded  in  1682,  incorporated  in  1705  and  burned 
by  the  British  in  1776.  In  1855  the  city  was  severely 
visited  by  yellow  fever  and  played  a  prominent  part  in 
the  first  year  of  the  civil  war,  when  it  was  captured  by 
Virginians  and  became  the  chief  naval  depot  of  the 
Confederacy.  Off  Norfolk,  on  March  8,  1862,  was 
fought  the  memorable  engagement  between  the  Con 
federate  iron-clad  Virginia  and  the  Federal  iron-clad 
Monitor,  which  marks  one  of  the  most  notable  epochs 
in  naval  warfare  and  changed  the  course  of  naval  con 
struction  throughout  the  world.  Opposite  Norfolk, 
connected  by  ferry,  is  Portsmouth,  a  city  of  11,388  in 
habitants,  and  one  of  the  best  harbors  on  the  Atlantic 


—  225  — 

coast.  At  Gosport,  the  S.  extremity  of  the  city,  is  a 
U.  S.  Navy  Yard,  and  near  by  is  the  U.  S.  Naval  Hos 
pital.  At  the  time  of  the  secession  of  Virginia,  April 
18,  1861,  nearly  1,000  men  were  employed  at  the  Navy 
Yard.  Two  days  afterward  it  was  destroyed  by  fire, 
with  property  valued  at  several  million  dollars,  includ 
ing  11  war-vessels. 

On  a  rather  weary  some  journey  I  arrived  at  Lynch- 
burg,  important  from  the  lines  of  railway  which  center 
here.  The  city  has  15,000  inhabitants  and  does  a 
great  business  in  tobacco  and  other  manufactures.  It 
lies  on  the  S.  bank  of  James  river  and  has  an  inexhaus 
tible  water-power.  About  20  miles  in  the  background 
rises  the  Blue  Eidge,  together  with  the  Peaks  of  Otter, 
which  are  in  full  view.  In  the  neighborhood  are  vast 
fields  of  coal  and  iron-ore,  and  the  celebrated  Botetourt 
Iron-works  are  not  far  distant. 

On  the  pretty  long  tour  from  here  to  Fredericks- 
burg,  I  passed  well  cultivated  and  rich  agricultural 
regions  and  mining  districts.  The  city,  quaint  and 
old,  is  situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Rappahannock 
river,  and  is  noted  as  being  the  scene  of  one  of  the 
severest  battles  of  the  civil  war,  fought  December  13, 
1862,  in  which  General  Burnside  was  defeated  by 
General  Lee.  11  miles  W.  of  Fredericksburg,  on  the 
E.  edge  of  "The  Wilderness/'  the  battle  of  Chancellors- 
ville,  in  which  "Stonewall"  Jackson  lost  his  life, 
was  fought  May  2-4,  1863.  Southward  from  Chan- 
cellorsville  is  Spottsylvania  Court-House,  where  in 

May,  1864,  were  fought  some  of  the  bloodiest  battles 

15 


—  226  — 

of  General  Grant's  campaign  on  his  way  to  Rich 
mond. 

Just  outside  the  limits  of  Fredericksburg  an  unfin 
ished  monument,  begun  in  1833,  marks  the  tomb  of 
the  mother  of  Washington,  who  died  here  in  1789.  It 
was  in  the  vicinity  of  Fredericksburg  that  Washington 
himself  was  born,  and  here  he  passed  his  early  years. 
At  Hanover  Junction,  37  miles  from  Fredericksburg, 
another  battle  was  fought  between  General  Grant  and 
General  Lee  in  May,  1864. 

At  Alexandria,  7  miles  below  Washington,  on  the 
S.  side  of  the  Potomac,  I  received  the  sad  news  of  the 
death  of  the  Ex-President  of  the  United  States,  Gen 
eral  Grant,  and  having  had  the  honor  to  be  personally 
acquainted  with  the  "Hero"  of  many  battles,  I  has 
tened  to  New  York  to  attend  at  his  funeral. 

The  city  of  Alexandria  dates  from  1784  and  is  in 
timately  associated  with  the  life  and  name  of  Wash 
ington.  In  Christ  Church  the  pew  No.  59,  in  whicli 
he  sat,  is  an  object  of  much  interest.  Pew  No.  46  was 
occupied  by  General  Robert  E.  Lee  when  he  resided 
at  Arlington  before  the  war.  The  Museum,  Court 
House  and  Thelogical  Seminary  are  among  the  prom 
inent  buildings,  and  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city  is  a 
National  Cemetery,  in  which  nearly  4,000  soldiers  are 
buried. 

The  State  of  Virginia,  "The  Old  Dominion,''  was 
named  in  honor  of  Elizabeth,  the  Virgin  Queen.  It  is 
one  of  the  13  original  States.  Settled  by  the  English  at 
Jamestown,  1607.  Slavery  introduced  1619.  Seceded 


227  

May,  1861;  re-admitted,  January,  1870.  Area,  42,450 
square  miles  5  greatest  length,  east  and  west,  440  miles ; 
greatest  breadth,  190  miles.  Coast  line,  about  120 
miles,  or  tidal  frontage,  1,500  miles. 

Temperature  at  Norfolk:  winter,  40°  to  48°; 
summer,  75°  to  80°.  Kainfall  at  White  Sulphur 
Springs,  38  inches. 

Number  of  farms,  118,517  ;  51  percent,  of  laborers 
are  engaged  in  agriculture.  Average  value  per  acre, 
cleared  land,  $9.42;  woodland,  $7.48. 

Marble  quarried  on  Potomac.  Number  of  sand 
stone  quarries,  10;  ship-building  establishments,  65; 
saw-mills,  907;  flour  and  grist-mills,  1,385. 

Gold  produced  1882,  $15,000.  Eanks  first  in  pea 
nuts,  and  second  in  tobacco. 

Population,  incl.  631,616  colored,  6  Chinese  and  85 
Indians,  1,512,565. 

U.  S.  Army  and  non-taxpayers  of  capitation  tax  ex 
cluded  from  voting. 

Number  of  colleges,  7;  school  population,  555,807; 
school  age,  5-21. 

The  "Pan  Handle  State,"  West  Virginia,  has  only 
been  slightly  explored  by  me,  the  few  cities  and  other 
places  which  1  visited  did  not  offer  any  important 
features,  and  I  was  compelled  to  rely  on  the  informations 
received  from  various  sources. 

West  Virginia  is  composed  of  northern  and  western 
counties  of  the  original  State  of  Virginia;  denounced 
passage  of  secession  ordinance,  April  22,  1861,  and  be 
came  a  State,  1863. 


—  228  — 

Area,  24,780  square  miles;  greatest  length,  north 
and  south,  about  240  miles ;  greatest  breadth,  160 
miles.  Big  Sandy,  Great  and  Little  Kanawha,  Guy- 
andotte,  and  Monongahela  are  navigable  rivers. 

Temperature  at  Morgantown:  winter,  34°  to  42°; 
summer,  70°  to  75°.  Rainfall  at  Romney,  45  inches. 

Charleston,  capital,  has  4, 192  inhabitants  and  some 
trade.  The  metropolis  of  the  State  is  Wheeling,  its 
population  about  35,000.  The  trade  on  the  Ohio 
river  is  very  important  in  this  city  and  there  are  many 
manufactures  of  iron-works,  nail-mills,  and  glass-works. 
The  National  Road  crosses  the  Ohio  here  by  a  graceful 
suspension  bridge,  1,010  ft.  long,  and  the  railroad 
bridge  below  the  city  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  country. 
There  are  several  fine  buildings,  formerly  occupied  by 
the  State  Government,  in  Wheeling. 

Parkersburg  is  a  port  of  delivery,  and  has  6,500 
inhabitants  and  an  important  trade  especially  in  petro 
leum. 

The  bridge  crossing  the  Ohio,  1J  miles  long, 
to  Belpre,  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
bridges  in  the  United  States. 

Martinsburg,  with  6,335  inhabitants,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  an  elevated  plateau  above  Tuscarora  Creek, 
which  affords  a  fine  water-power.  Much  fighting  oc- 
cured  in  this  vicinity  during  the  civil  war,  and  in  June, 
1861,  the  Confederates  destroyed  87  locomotives  and 
400  cars  belonging  to  the  railroad  company. 

Number  of  farms,  62,674.  Average  value  per  acre, 
cleared  land,  $21.05;  woodland,  $9.39.  61  per  cent. 


—  229  — 

of  laborers  engaged  in  agriculture.  Staples  are  tobacco, 
wheat  and  corn,  the  last  being  the  most  valuable  crop. 
Iron  ore  yields  50  to  80  per  cent,  pure  metal.  Petro 
leum  is  extensively  produced  in  Ritchie,  Pleasants, 
Wood  and  AVirt  counties. 

Population,  618,457,  including  25,886  Colored,  and 
29  Indians.  Slaves  in  1860,  18,371. 

Flourishing  free  school  system  5  school  population, 
216,605;  school  age,  6-21. 

After  a  brief  stay  in  New  York  I  started  anew,  to 
explore  the  State  of,  Connecticut,  and  visiting  Bridge 
port,  a  prosperous  city  of  30,000  population,  situated 
on  an  arm  of  the  Long  Island  Sound,  and  famous  for  its 
many  manufactures  in  sewing  machines,  leather,  car 
riages,  arms,  cutlery  and  locks,  I  proceeded  to  New 
Haven,  the  largest  city  of  Connecticut,  at  the  head  of 
the  New  Haven  Bay,  on  a  broad  plain  surrounded  by 
rolling  hills.  It  is  the  centre  of  5  railroads,  has  a  large 
coasting  trade  and  considerable  foreign  commerce, 
chiefly  with  the  West  Indies.  Its  manufactures  are  very 
large,  including  hardware,  locks,  clocks,  machinery,  fire 
arms,  carriages,  jewelry,  pianos,  and  India-rubber  goods. 

Population,  62,882.  New  Haven  contains  a  great 
many  charitable  institutions. 

The  Medical  College  is  considered  to  be  of  high 
standing.  Yale  College  is  one  of  the  most  important 
and  oldest  educational  institutions  in  America,  founded 
in  1700  and  established  at  New  Haven  in  1717.  The 
Gothic  library  in  the  College  contains  140,000  volumes. 
The  Winchester  Observatory  contains  a  6-inch  helio- 


—  230  — 

meter,  and  an  8-inch  equatorial  instrument.  In  the 
Peabody  Museum  are  the  collections  of  the  University 
in  geology,  mineralogy,  and  the  natural  sciences,  in 
cluding  the  famous  collection  of  Professor  Marsh. 

There  are  very  handsome  public  and  private  build 
ings  in  this  city. 

Beyond  New  Haven,  37  miles  distant,  is  the  capital 
of  Connecticut,  Hartford,  situated  on  the  Connecticut 
River.  Its  population  in  1880  was  42,553  and  it  is  the 
centre  of  fire  and  life  insurances  in  the  Union.  The 
manufactures  are  very  extensive,  and  include  brass- 
ware  and  iron,  steam-engines,  tools,  machinery,  sewing- 
machines,  fire-arms,  silver-plated  ware,  woolens,  etc. 
The  State  House  is  marvellously  pretty,  and  the  State 
library  in  that  building  is  one  of  the  largest  law-libraries 
in  America.  The  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb, 
founded  1817,  was  the  first  institution  of  the  kind  in 
America,  and  the  other  State  and  Municipal  charitable 
institutions  in  the  city  are  also  famous.  The  Connect 
icut  Historical  Society  has  a  good  collection  of  paintings, 
statuary  and  books.  Some  of  the  churches  in  the  city 
are  very  pretty.  Trinity  College,  (in  the  course  of 
erection  when  I  was  there)  will  be  a  handsomely  adorned 
architecture.  In  the  S.  E.  portion  of  the  city,  located 
on  the  banks  of  Connecticut  River,  is  the  famous  Colt 
Fire- Arms  Manufactory.  "Mark  Twain's,'7  residence 
is  also  here. 

After  a  few  more  excursions  to  almost  all  parts  of 
the  State,  I  continued  my  voyage  to  the  smallest  State 
in  the  Union,  Rhode  Island. 


—  231  — 

Connecticut,  the  "Nutmeg  State,"  has  its  name  from 
the  Indian  word,  signifying  "Long  River."  It  is  one 
of  the  13  original  States,  the  first  settlement  (permanent) 
was  made  by  the  English  at  Hartford,  1635. 

Area,  4,990  square  miles ;  average  length,  86 
miles;  average  breadth,  55  miles;  sea-coast,  over  100 
miles.  Principal  river  valleys:  Thames,  Connecticut 
and  Housatonic.  Most  important  harbors :  Bridge 
port,  New  Haven,  New  London,  Saybrook  and  Ston- 
ington. 

Temperature  at  New  Haven  :  winter,  27°  to  40°  5 
summer,  68°  to  74°;  rainfall,  44  inches. 

Waterbury  is  an  important  manufacturing  city 
with  17,806  inhabitants.  Fairfield,  Middletown,  New 
Haven,  New  London  and  Stonington  are  ports  of 
entry. 

Number  of  farms,  30,598;  average  value  per  acre, 
cleared  land,  $29.00;  woodland,  $24.50.  Number  of 
different  industries,  4,488.  Ranks  first  in  clocks, 
third  in  silk  goods. 

Population,  622,700,  incl.  11,547  Colored,  123  Chi 
nese,  6  Japanese  and  225  Indians. 

Those  unable  to  read  are  excluded  from  voting. 
Number  of  colleges,  3,  having  about  160,000  volumes 
in  their  libraries.  School  age  4-16. 

I  found  myself  now  in  Newport,  one  of  the  two  capi 
tals  of  the  State  of  Rhode  Island;  the  other  being  Provi 
dence.  Newport  is  one  of  the  most  fashionable  and 
frequented  of  all  the  American  summer  resorts,  it  is 
situated  on  the  W.  shore  of  Rhode  Island  and  on  Nar- 


—  232  — 

ragansett  Bay,  5  miles  from  the  ocean.  It  is  a  port  of 
entry  and  was  settled  in  1637,  incorporated  in  1700. 
Sumptuous  mansions  and  charming  villas  lie  along  the 
terraces  which  overlook  the  sea. 

Of  curiosities  there  are  too  many  in  this  place  to 
describe  them  minutely  and  I  will  only  mention  a  few, 
/.  i.j  the  Touro  Park  with  the  Old  Stone  Mill,  also  called 
the  Round  Tower,  the  old  State  House,  founded  in 
1739,  the  Jewish  Synagogue,  erected  in  1762,  the  ven 
erable  Trinity  Church,  the  Redwood  Library,  contain 
ing  20,000  volumes,  paintings  and  statuary,  the  His 
torical  Society,  with  a  fine  collection  of  colonial  relics, 
and  the  Free  Library,  containing  15,000  volumes. 

The  surf-bathing  in  Newport  is  unsurpassed  and 
there  are  3  fine  beaches. 

The  drives  in  and  around  Newport  are  of  unusual 
elegance,  and  numerous  lovely  spots,  such  as  caves, 
glens,  ponds  and  hills  ornament  the  place.  3J  miles 
from  the  city  is  Fort  Adams  with  460  guns,  one  of  the 
largest  and  strongest  fortresses  in  America. 

Goat  Island,  opposite  the  city  wharves,  is  the  head 
quarters  of  the  torpedo  division  of  the  U.  S.  Naval 
Service.  Lime  Rock,  in  the  harbor  beyond  Goat 
Island,  is  famous  as  the  home  of  Ida  Lewis. 

In  Narragansett  Pier  I  found  the  same  sea-sight 
life  as  in  Newport,  and  made  a  trip  to  the  second  capi 
tal  of  the  State,  Providence.  In  wealth  and  population, 
Providence  is  the  second  city  of  New  England  and  the 
chief  in  the  State. 

It  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  northern  arm  of 


—  233  — 

Narragansett  Bay,  known  as  Providence  river.  Provi 
dence  was  founded  in  1636  by  Roger  Williams,  who 
had  been  banished  from  Massachusetts  on  account  of  his 
religious  opinions.  In  1880  the  population  was  104,- 
850.  The  manufacturers  in  this  city  are  very  exten 
sive,  including  cotton  and  woolen  goods,  iron,  prints, 
and  jewelry,  some  of  these  are  of  world  fame,  as  for 
instance,  the  Gorham  Company's  silver-ware  factory, 
the  Providence  Tool  Company's  works,  and  the  Steam 
Engine  Company's,  and  Corliss  Steam  Engine  Works. 
60  wool  and  100  cotton  mills  centre  in  this  city. 

Of  public  buildings  worth  mentioning,  are  the  City 
Hall,  the  County  Court  House,  the  Brown  University, 
founded  in  1764  and  containing  over  50,000  volumes, 
and  many  others.  The  Rhode  Island  Historical  So 
ciety  has  a  valuable  library  and  some  interesting  his 
torical  relics. 

The  Athenaeum  contains  a  library  of  38,000  vol 
umes  and  some  valuable  paintings. 

The  Soldiers'  and  Sailors'  Monument  erected  by 
the  State  in  memory  of  its  1,741  citizens  who  fell  in 
the  civil  war  is  an  exceedingly  fine  structure.  Of 
charitable  and  educational  institutions  there  is  an 
abundance  in  Providence.  The  drives  in  the  suburbs, 
etc.,  are  very  pretty.  On  the  State  Farm  in  Cranston 
are  the  State  Prison,  Workhouse,  House  of  Correction, 
Almshouse  and  the  Hospital  for  the  Insane. 

Rhode  Island,  "  Little  Rhody,"  is  one  of  the  13 
original  States  and  smallest  in  the  Union  5  supposed 
temporary  settlement  by  Icelanders  as  early  as  1000  5 


—  234  — 

settled  by  Roger  Williams  at  Providence,  1636;  last  of 
the  13  colonies  to  ratify  the  Constitution,  which  it  did 
in  1790. 

Area,  1,250  square  miles;  extreme  length,  north 
and  south,  47  miles;  extreme  width,  40  miles.  Good 
harbors  at  Providence,  Bristol,  Warren  and  Newport, 
the  latter  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world. 

Temperature  at  Newport:  winter,  29°  to  43° ; 
summer,  64°  to  71°;  rainfall,  42  inches. 

U.  S.  customs  districts  at  Newport,  Providence, 
Bristol  and  Warren.  Population  of  Lincoln,  17,269;  of 
Pawtucket,  22,894;  of  Warwick,  13,284,  and  of 
Woonsocket,  16,145. 

Number  of  farms,  6,216.  Hay  is  the  most  valua 
ble  crop.  It  outranks,  in  proportion  to  its  size,  all 
other  States  in  value  of  manufactures.  Number  of 
looms,  30,274;  spindles,  1,649,295,  using  161,694 
bales  of  cotton  and  giving  employment  to  22,228 
persons.  Ranks  second  in  cotton,  flax  and  linen 
goods. 

Population,  303,816,  incl.  7,127  Colored,  27 
Chinese,  and  77  Indians. 

Persons  without  property  to  the  value  of  $134,  ex 
cluded  from  voting. 

Number  of  colleges,  1  ;  Browns  University,  at 
Providence,  founded  1764;  common  school  system  ex 
cellent;  school  age,  5-15. 

Resuming  my  journey,  I  arrived  at  the  capital  of 
Massachusetts  and  chief  city  of  New  England,  the 
pretty  city  of  Boston,  situated  at  the  W.  extremity  of 


—  235  — 

Massachusetts  Bay,  in  latitude  42°  N.  and  longitude 
71°  W. 

The  first  white  inhabitant  of  Boston  was  the  Rev. 
John  Blackstone,  arrived  in  1623.  In  1635  Mr. 
Blaekstone  sold  his  claim  to  the  peninsula,  on  which 
Boston  proper  stands,  to  John  Winthrop,  afterward  the 
first  Governor  of  Massachusetts  for  £30,  and  removed 
to  Rhode  Island.  The  first  church  was  built  in  1632 ; 
the  first  wharf  in  1673. 

The  city  was  incorporated  in  1822,  with  a  popu 
lation  of  45,000,  which  had  increased  to  362,839  (in 
cluding  the  suburbs  of  Brighton,  Charleston  and  W. 
Roxbury)  in  1880.  On  the  9th  of  November  1872, 
one  of  the  most  terrible  conflagrations  ever  known  in 
America,  swept  away  the  principal  business  portion  of 
Boston.  The  district  burnt  over  extended  from  the 
heart  of  the  city  to  the  harbor.  About  775  of  the 
finest  buildings  were  destroyed,  causing  a  loss  of  $70,- 
000,000. 

The  Indian  name  of  the  peninsula  was  Shawm ut, 
meaning  " Sweet  Waters."  It  was  called  by  the  ear 
lier  settlers  Trimountain  or  Tremont.  It  embraces 
Boston  proper,  East  Boston,  South  Boston,  Roxbury, 
Dorchester,  Charleston,  Brighton  and  West  Roxbury, 
containing  in  all  about  22,000  acres.  The  city  is  con 
nected  by  several  bridges  with  the  above  mentioned 
places.  The  harbor  is  a  spacious  indentation  of  Massa 
chusetts  Bay,  embracing  75  square  miles,  including 
several  arms.  There  are  more  than  50  islands  or  islets 
in  the  harbor. 


—  236  — 

The  Common,  a  park  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  con 
sidered  to  date  from  1634,  is  a  very  attractive  spot 
with  the  ancient  and  historic  Frog  Pond,  the  Soldiers 
monument,  and  several  fine  fountains  on  the  grounds. 
The  Public  Garden  contains  Washington's  noble  eques 
trian  statue,  the  statues  of  Edward  Everett,  Charles  Sum- 
ner,  and  of  u  Venus  rising  from  the  Sea,"  and  the  monu 
ment  in  honor  of  the  discovery  of  ether  as  an  anaes 
thetic. 

The  State  House,  on  whose  terrace  in  the  front  are 
statues  of  Daniel  Webster  and  Horace  Mann,  and  on 
the  entrance  floor  the  statue  of  Governor  Andrewr, 
busts  of  Samuel  Adams,  Lincoln  and  Sumner  and  a 
collection  of  battle-flags,  and  in  the  Rotunda  the  statue 
of  Washington,  copies  of  the  tombstones  of  the 
Washington  family  in  Brington  church-yard,  England, 
is  a  very  fine  building. 

The  Anthenseum  is  one  of  the  best  endowed  institu 
tions  in  the  world,  and  the  library  of  the  American  Ac 
ademy  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  in  the  same  building,  con 
tains  15,000  volumes.  On  Louisburg  Square  are  statues 
of  Columbus  and  Aristides,  and  the  Park  Square  contains 
the  bronze  group,  "Emancipation." 

The  Society  of  Natural  History  has  valuable  cabin 
ets  and  a  library  of  12,000  volumes,  the  Boston  Public 
Library  450,000,  and  the  famous  Tosti  collection  of 
engravings.  The  Museum  of  Fine  Arts  contains 
Egyptian  antiquities,  statuary,  casts  and  one  of  the 
richest  collections  of  paintings  and  engravings  in  the 
country.  The  Masonic  Temple,  the  Massachusetts 


—  237  — 

Charitable  Mechanics'  Association  Building,  and  the 
New  England  Manufacturers'  and  Mechanics'  Institute, 
and  the  Institute  of  Technology,  deserve  to  be  men 
tioned. 

There  are  numerous  churches  in  Boston,  and  the 
Trinity  Church  (Episcopal),  is  one  of  the  largest,  finest, 
and  most  splendidly  decorated  cfiurches  in  America, 
the  Catholic  Cathedral  of  the  Holy  Cross,  and  the  old 
and  new  South  Churches  rank  next  to  it. 

Faneuil  Hall  is  the  most  interesting  building  in  the 
Union,  next  to  Independence  Hall,  Philadelphia.  This 
famous  edifice,  the  u  cradle  of  liberty,"  was  erected  in 
1742  and  presented  to  the  town  by  Peter  Faneuil,  a 
Hugnenot  merchant.  Destroyed  by  fire  in  1761,  it 
was  rebuilt  in  1768  and  enlarged  to  its  present  dimensi 
ons  in  1805.  In  it  are  the  portraits  of  the  founder, 
Washington,  Samuel  Adams,  J.  C.  Adams,  Webster, 
Everett,  Lincoln,  Governor  Andrew,  Henry  Wilson, 
Charles  Sunnier.  The  U.  S.  Custom  House,  the  City 
Hall,  with  statues  of  Benjamin  Franklin  and  Quincy, 
the  New  Post  Office  and  Sub-Treasury,  not  yet  com 
pleted,  Horticultural  Hall,  Odd-Fellows'  Hall,  Music 
Hall,  with  3,000  seats,  and  several  business  buildings 
are  fine  and  spacious  structures.  There  are  a  great  many 
public  and  private  educational  institutions  in  Boston. 

Boston  University,  founded  in  1869  by  Isaac  Rich, 
bequeated  by  this  Philanthropist  with  $2,000,000,  is 
well-known,  arid  the  new  building  of  the  Young  Men's 
Christian  Association  is  considered  to  be  the  finest  of 
its  kind  in  the  world.  The  Massachusetts  Historical 


—  238  — 

Society  has  a  library  of  25,000  volumes,  manuscripts, 
coins,  maps,  charts,  portraits  and  historical  relics. 

On  the  old  North  Burying-Ground,  on  Copp's  Hill, 
lie  the  three  fathers  of  the  Puritan  Church,  Drs.  In 
crease,  Cotton,  and  Samuel  Mather. 

Of  charitable  institutions  there  are  too  many  in  Bos 
ton  to  be  specially  named. 

The  Soldiers'  Home  is  located  in  Chelsea,  and  near 
by  is  the  U.  S.  Naval  Hospital. 

The  environs  of  Boston  are  remarkably  artractive. 
Charlestown,  Brighton,  Jamaica  Plain,  and  W.  Roxbury, 
Dorchester  and  Roxbury  were  annexed  and  now  form 
part  of  the  city.  At  Charlestown  is  the  famous 
u  Bunker  Hill  Monument,"  commemorative  of  the 
eventful  battle  fought  on  the  spot,  June  17,  1775.  The 
U.  S.  Navy- Yard  is  also  located  here.  Nantasket 
Beach  is  a  celebrated  summer  resort  in  the  vicinity. 

In  Brookline  is  the  Brookline  Reservoir,  and  about 
1  mile  distant  from  here,  the  Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir, 
both  with  colossal  capacities. 

Cambridge,  one  of  the  two  most  renowned  of  the 
American  academic  cities,  contains  the  Harvard  Uni 
versity,  the  oldest  and  most  richly  endowed  institution 
of  learning  in  the  United  States.  Its  library  numbers 
160,000  volumes.  Near  the  college  yard  are  the  Zoo 
logical  Museum,  the  Botanical  Garden,  containing  a 
valuable  herbarium  and  the  Observatory. 

On  the  Common,  near  by,  stands  a  monument  in 
honor  of  the  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  civil  war,  and  not 
far  from  it,  the  Shepard  Memorial  Church,  erected  in 


_  239  — 

lionor  of  Thomas  Shepard,  who  was  pastor  at  Cam 
bridge  from  1635  to  1649. 

In  front  of  the  latter  is  the  famous  Washington  Elm, 
beneath  which  Washington  assumed  the  command  of 
the  American  army  in  1775,  and  which  is  thought  to 
be  300 'years  old.  Many  structures  built  before  the 
Revolution  are  still  standing,  among  them  the  house 
used  by  Washington  for  his  headquarters  and  recently 
inhabited  by  the  poet  Longfellow,  and  Elmwood,  the 
home  of  James  Russell  Lowell.  Mount  Auburn  Ceme 
tery  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  ancient  burial- 
places  in  America. 

Waltham,  10  miles  distant  from  Boston,  a  nourish 
ing  manufacturing  village,  of  11,711  inhabitants,  on 
the  Charles  River,  is  noted  as  the  site  of  the  Waltham 
Watch  Company  7s  Works,  which  are  the  most  extensive 
in  the  world.  The  first  cotton-mill  in  the  U.  S.  was 
erected  at  Waltham  in  1814. 

I  made  Boston  my  headquarters  for  the  frequent 
excursions  to  different  parts  of  this  State  and  the 
neighboring  State  of  New  Hampshire,  beginning  with 
the  exploration  «of  the  cotton-manufacture  region. 

After  visiting  Lowell  with  59,485  inhabitants,  situ 
ated  on  the  Merrimac,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Concord, 
and  one  of  the  most  noted  manufacturing  cities  in  the 
Union  and  whose  prosperity  is  ascribed  to  the  water 
power  from  the  Pawtucket  Falls  in  the  Merrimac,  I 
started  for  Lawrence,  also  a  very  prosperous  large 
manufacturing  city  with  39,178  inhabitants  and  great 
water  power  from  the  Merrimac.  Its  leading  manufact- 


—  240  — 

ures  are  cotton  cloth,  woolens,  shawls,  paper,  files  and 
flour.  The  vast  mills  are  separated  by  a  canal  which 
distributes  the  water  power. 

South  Lawrence  across  the  river  is  a  busy  manu 
facturing  suburb. 

Fall  Kiver  was  next  visited.  It  contains*  49,006 
population  and  extensive  manufactures  of  cotton-cloth, 
there  being  more  spindles  in  operation  than  in  any 
other  American  city. 

Taunton,  another  nourishing  manufacturing  city 
with  21,213  inhabitants,  and  Qaincy,  a  beautiful  old 
town,  noteworthy  as  the  home  of  the  Adams  and  Quincy 
families,  followed,  and  after  collecting  authentic  statistics 
about  the  cotton  and  wool  industries  in  that  region,  I 
travelled  to  the  boot  and  shoe  manufacturing  district. 

Lynn,  with  45,861  inhabitants,  situated  on  the 
shore  of  Massachusetts  Bay  and  surrounded  by  pleasing 
sceneries,  is  famous  for  its  extensive  manufactures  of 
boots  and  shoes,  it  also  contains  a  costly  Soldiers' 
Monument  and  a  very  fine  City  Hall. 

Worcester,  the  second  city  in  Massachusetts  in 
wealth  and  population,  is  a  vast  manufacturing  centre, 
also  a  great  railroad  centre.  Its  population  is  now 
estimated  at  75,000.  Its  principal  manufactures  are  of 
boots  and  shoes,  machinery  and  tools,  a  great  variety  of 
metal  and  wood  products,  stone-ware,  jewelry,  carpets, 
etc. 

The  principal  staple  is  iron  and  steel  wire,  which  in 
2  establishments  alone  gives  employment  to  over  4,000 
workmen. 


—  241  — 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  with  wide  streets  and 
the  Union  R.  R.  Depot  is  one  of  the  largest  in  New 
England.  The  American  Antiquarian  Society  contains 
a  library  of  60,000  volumes  and  a  valuable  cabinet  of 
antiquities,  and  the  Free  Public  Library  70,000  volumes. 

The  Lyceum  and  Natural  History  Society  has  inter 
esting  collections.  The  Worcester  Academy,  the  Oread 
Institute  for  young  ladies,  the  Highland  Military 
Academy,  the  State  Normal  School,  the  Catholic  College 
of  the  Holy  Cross,  and  the  Free  Institute  of  Industrial 
Science  are  institutions  of  great  fame,  and  the  State 
Lunatic  Asylum,  a  vast  stone  structure  of  great 
dimensions. 

The  beautifully  situated  city  of  Haverhill  ranks  in 
its  leading  industry  of  shoemaking  next  to  Lynn.  The 
city  contains  18,475  inhabitants  and  a  library  of 
20,000  volumes.  1  mile  N.  E.  of  Haverhill  is  Lake 
Kenoza,  a  pretty  little  lake,  named  and  celebrated  by 
the  poet  Whittier,  who  was  born  in  Haverhill  in  1807. 

After  a  brief  stay  in  Boston  to  which  I  had  returned, 
I  went  to  Springfield,  noted  for  its  great  variety  of  its 
industries.  In  1880  its  population  was  33,340,  it  is 
situated  on  the  Connecticut  river,  is  well  built,  and  its 
wide  streets  are  shaded  with  elms  and  maples.  The 
U.  S.  Arsenal,  the  Court  House  and  the  building  of  the 
City  Library  (with  48,000  volumes,  and  a  Museum  of 
Natural  History),  and  the  City  Hall,  containing  a  pub 
lic  hall  seating  2,700  persons,  are  well  worth  visiting. 
The  Arsenal  is  the  greatest  in  the  United  States. 

There  are  also  some  fine  churches  in  Worcester. 

16 


—  242  — 

From  Boston,  16  miles  distant,  is  the  venerable 
town  of  Salem  with  28,000  inhabitants,  the  site  of  the 
first  permanent  settlement  of  the  old  Massachusetts  col 
ony.  The  year  1692  is  remarkable  in  the  history  of 
the  city,  being  the  date  of  the  witchcraft  delusion  at 
Salem  village,  now  a  part  of  Danvers,  for  which  several 
persons  were  tried  and  executed.  In  the  Court-House 
are  deposited  the  documents  that  relate  to  these  curious 
trials.  The  house  is  still  standing  in  which  some  of 
the  preliminary  examinations  were  made.  The  place 
of  execution  is  in  the  western  part  of  the  city,  an  em 
inence  overlooking  the  city,  harbor  and  surrounding 
shores,  and  known  as  Gallows  Hill.  Plummer  Hall  is 
a  handsome  building,  containing  the  library  of  the  Salem 
Athena3um  (14,000  volumes),  and  that  of  the  Essex 
Institute  (25,000  volumes,  and  a  large  collection  of 
manuscripts,  pamphlets,  and  various  historical  relics). 
East  India  Marine  Hall  contains  the  large  and  rare 
ethnological  museum  of  the  East  India  Marine  Society, 
and  rare  natural  history  collections  of  the  Essex  Insti 
tute.  Peabody  Institute,  in  which  are  deposited  many 
interesting  works  of  art,  and  the  various  memorials  of 
the  founder,  the  great  Philanthropist,  George  Peabody, 
of  which  may  be  mentioned  the  portrait  of  Queen  Vic 
toria,  the  Congress  Medal,  etc.  A  short  distance  from 
the  Institute  is  the  house  in  which  Mr.  Peabody  was 
born,  and  in  Harmony  Grove  Cemetery  not  far  from 
there  is  his  grave. 

Amherst,  noted  for  its  college,  is  charmingly  situ 
ated.  Its  population  is  4,000,  and  the  leading  interest 


—  243  — 

paper  manufacturing.  Amherst  College  was  founded 
in  1821,  and  is  one  of  the  high-standing  institutions  of 
New  England.  The  college  collections  in  zoology, 
botany,  geology,  mineralogy,  etc.,  are  among  the  rich 
est  in  the  country.  The  Shepard  cabinet  of  minerals 
is  of  immense  value  and  is  said  to  be  surpassed  only 
by  those  of  the  British  Museum  and  the  Imperial  Cab 
inet  at  Vienna;  and  the  collection  of  20,000  specimens 
of  ancient  tracks  of  birds,  beasts  and  reptiles  in  stone 
is  without  a  rival.  The  Massachusetts  Agricultural 
College  possesses  the  famous  Durfee  Plant-House,  con 
taining  many  rare  and  beautiful  plants.  It  was  found 
ed  in  1866  and  has  become  the  most  successful  agri 
cultural  school  in  the  United  States. 

On  a  side-excursion  I  arrived  at  Mount  Holyoke, 
the  "Gem  of  the  Massachusetts  Mountains."  From  the 
Prospect  House,  on  the  top  of  this  mountain,  1,120  ft. 
above  the  sea,  and  where  an  observatory  is,  the  view 
is  magnificent. 

Per  Boston,  Hoosac  Tunnel  and  Western  E.  R., 
the  famous  Hoosac  Tunnel,  136  miles  from  Boston,  was 
reached.  It  is  next  to  that  under  Mt.  Cenis,  the  long 
est  in  the  world,  and  is  one  of  the  most  wonderful  and 
costly  engineering. 

New  Bedford,  the  greatest  whaling  port  in  the 
world,  with  33,393  inhabitants,  and  Plymouth,  a 
manufacturing  village,  with  7,000  inhabitants,  on  Cape 
Cod  Bay,  were  also  visited.  The  interest  of  Plymouth 
is  chiefly  historical,  and  it  will  be  forever  famous  as 
the  landing  place  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers,  on  December 


—  244  — 

22,  1620,  and  as  the  site  of  the  first  settlement  made  in 
New  England.  Plymouth  Rock,  on  which  the  Pilgrims 
first  landed,  is  covered  by  a  handsome  canopy  of  gra 
nite,  in  the  attic  of  which  are  inclosed  the  bones  of 
several  men  who  died  during  the  first  year  of  the 
settlement.  A  portion  of  the  rock  has  been  placed  in 
front  of  Pilgrim  Hall,  and  surrounded  by  an  iron  fence. 
Pilgrim  Hall  contains  a  large  hall,  the  public  library, 
busts  and  portraits,  and  many  interesting  relics  of  the 
Mayflower  Pilgrims  and  other  early  settlers  of  Massa 
chusetts.  The  National  Monument  to  the  Pilgrims 
consists  of  a  granite  pedestal  40  ft.  high,  surrounded 
by  statues  20  ft.  high,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  colossal 
granite  statue  of  "  Faith,"  40  ft.  high. 

The  environs  of  Plymouth  arc  very  attractive. 

On  this  occasion — I  was  then  in  Boston — I  consider 
it  my  sacred  duty  to  pay  my  tributes  of  everlasting 
gratitude  to  the  than  Mayor  of  the  City  of  Boston,  Mr. 
O'Brien,  to  Ex-Governor  Robinson,  Legislator  Resi- 
novsky,  Reverend  Schindler,  author  of  several  impor 
tant  works,  to  Professor  Morse,  whom  I  had  already 
seen  in  Japan,  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Imperial  German 
Consulate,  Mr.  Lagrege,  and  to  several  Professors  of 
the  Harvard  University,  especially  Professor  Asa  Gray, 
whose  death  is  a  great  loss  to  the  scientific  world. 

I  cannot  find  words  for  the  interpretation  of  my  feel 
ings  toward  these  generous  and  kind-hearted  men,  for 
the  hospitality  and  the  many  favors  shown  to  me  during 
my  stay  in  Boston. 

Massachusetts,  the  "Old  Bay  State,7'  is  one  of  the 


—  245  — 

13  original  States.     First  settlement  made  by  English 
Puritans,  at  Plymouth  1620. 

Area,  8,315  square  miles ;  length,  northeast  and 
southwest,  160  miles,  breadth,  47  to  100  miles. 

Temperature  at  Boston  :  winter,  27°  to  38°  ;  sum 
mer,  66°  to  71°;  rainfall,  45  inches. 

Number  of  farms,  38,406  ;  average  value  per  acre, 
cleared  land,  $85  ;  woodland,  $43.25. 

Hay,  the  most  valuable  crop.  Ranks  first  in  cot 
ton,  woolen  and  worsted  goods,  and  in  cod  and 
mackerel  fisheries,  owning  over  half  of  the  fishing  ves 
sels  of  the  U.  S.,  and  second  in  wealth  and  commerce. 

Population  1,941,465,  including  20,361  Colored, 
229  Chinese,  8  Japanese  and  369  Indians. 

Number  of  quarries,  113;  ports  of  entry,  9;  cus 
toms  districts,  11.  First  American  newspaper,  Boston, 
1690;  first  freight  railroad  in  United  States,  Quincy; 
first  American  library  at  Harvard  College.  Number  of 
colleges,  7 ;  education  compulsory ;  schools  excellent ; 
school  age,  5-15. 

Nashua  was  the  first  place  visited  in  the  State  of 
New  Hampshire.  It  it  a  pretty  manufacturing  city  of 
13,397  inhabitants,  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Merrimac  and  Nashua  Rivers. 

17  miles  distant  from  Nashua  is  the  largest  city  of 
New  Hampshire,  Manchester,  with  a  population  cf 
32,630  and  extensive  manufactures,  chiefly  of  prints. 

The  immense  factories  are  on  the  canal  and  the 
water-power  is  furnished  by  this  canal  around  the 
Amoskeag  Falls  of  the  Merrimac.  The  public  library 


—  246  — 

contains  20,000  volumes.  In  the  city  are  a  number  of 
neat  public  squares  and  several  fine  churches. 

9  miles  beyond  Manchester  is  Hooksett,  with  ex 
tensive  brick-yards  and  several  cotton-factories,  and  at 
the  same  distance  from  the  latter,  Concord,  the  capital 
of  New  Hampshire,  on  the  sloping  W.  bank  of  the 
Merrimac  River,  handsomely  built  and  with  wide 
streets  and  an  abundance  of  trees.  Concord  is  famous 
for  the  superior  quality  of  the  granite  quarried  in  its 
vicinity,  and  its  celebrated  carriage-manufactories.  It 
contains  18,838  inhabitants,  and  the  State  Capitol, 
City  Hall  and  Court  House,  the  State  Prison  and  the 
Insane  Asylum  are  beautiful  structures. 

The  seat  of  Dartmouth  College,  one  of  the  most 
famous  institutions  of  learning  in  America,  is  in  Hanover. 
It  was  founded  in  1769;  and  Daniel  Webster,  Rufus 
Choate  and  Chief  Justice  Chase  wrere  among  its  alumni. 
The  Reed  Hall,  one  of  the  group  of  buildings  of  the 
college,  contains  50,000  volumes.  The  college  in 
cludes,  besides  the  literary  department,  a  medical 
school  and  the  New  Hampshire  College  of  Agriculture 
and  the  Mechanic  Arts. 

I  returned  from  an  excursion  to  Portsmouth,  the 
only  seaport  of  New  Hampshire,  standing  upon  a  pen 
insula  on  the  S.  side  of  Piscataqua  river,  and  excepting 
the  narrow  strip  connecting  it  with  the  mainland,  is  en 
tirely  surrounded  by  water.  The  harbor  is  very  deep 
and  in  it  are  several  islets.  The  city  is  an  old  tranquil 
place  with  beautifully  shaded  streets  and  some  old  and 
venerable  churches  and  residences. 


—  247  — 

The  tomb  of  Sir  William  Pepperell  is  here.  On 
Continental  Island  is  the  U.  S.  Navy  Yard,  admirably 
located.  The  population  is  about  13,000. 

The  road  leading  to  the  neighboring  State  of  Maine, 
has  densely  populated  districts  and  well-cultivated  farm 
lands  on  both  sides,  as  well  as  factories,  etc.,  and  the 
scenery  around  Portland  has  been  declared  by  travelers 
to  be  among  the  most  enchanting  in  the  world. 

Portland,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  Maine, 
picturesquely  situated  on  a  high  peninsula  at  the  S.  W. 
extremity  of  Casco  Bay,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
cities  in  America.  It  was  settled  in  1632,  and  has  had 
a  steady  growth ;  but  on  the  4th  of  July,  1866,  a  great 
fire  swept  away  half  the  business  portion,  destroying 
over  $10,000,000  worth  of  property.  The  entire  dis- 
drict  destroyed  by  the  fire  has  since  been  rebuilt.  The 
streets  are  profusely  embellished  with  trees  and  the 
population  in  1880,  was  33,810.  The  City  Hall  is 
considered  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  municipal  struc 
tures  in  the  country. 

The  Post  Office,  Custom  House,  Marine  Hospital 
and  some  of  the  churches  are  imposing  edifices.  The 
Society  of  Natural  History  has  a  fine  collection  of  fishes, 
birds,  reptiles,  shells  and  minerals;  the  library,  15,000 
volumes.  From  the  Observatory,  on  Munjoy's  Hill,  fine 
views  are  obtained  and  the  drives  around  the  city  are 
excellent.  The  harbor  is  deep  and  spacious  and  is 
dotted  with  lovely  islands,  and  defended  by  3  powerful 
forts. 

From  here,  the  capital  of  Maine,  Augusta,  is  62 


—  248  — 

miles  distant,  and  reached  per  Main  Central  and  Knox 
and  Lincoln  Railway.  The  first  important  place  on 
this  road  is  Brunswick,  a  thriving  town  at  the  head  of 
tide-water  on  the  Androscoggin  river,  noted  as  the  seat 
of  Bowdoin  College,  whose  gallery  of  paintings  is  fam 
ous. 

Beyond  Brunswick  the  train  crosses  the  Andros 
coggin  and  runs  into  the  center  of  the  lumber  industry, 
Gardiner.  On  the  banks  of  the  Kennebec,  4  miles  from 
Gardiner,  is  Hallowell  with  extensive  granite  quarries 
in  the  neighborhood  and  2  miles  distant,  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Kennebec,  is  Augusta,  the  capital  of 
the  State  of  Maine.  This  city  is  beautifully  situated 
and  has  an  abundance  of  shade-trees  and  shrubbery. 

The  State  House,  Court  House,  the  State  Insane 
Asylum,  and  the  Kennebec  Arsenal  are  noteworthy 
buildings. 

I  continued  my  travels  in  this  State  to  Bangor,  the 
second  city  of  Maine,  and  one  of  the  greatest  lumber- 
markets  in  the  world.  Situated  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Penobscot  river,  60  miles  from  the 
ocean  and  containing  18,000  inhabitants,  the  city  is 
very  wealthy  and  handsomely  built.  Ship-building  is 
carried  on,  and  there  is  also  a  large  business  in  roofing- 
slates,  potatoes,  ice,  hay,  steam-boilers,  moccasins  and 
machinery. 

The  granite  Custom  House  and  Post  Office,  the 
Norombega  Hall  with  seats  for  2,000  persons,  and  the 
Bangor  Theological  Seminary,  and  some  of  the  churches 
are  handsome  structures. 


—  249  — 

The  "  Pine  Tree  State,"  State  of  Maine,  was  settled 
by  the  English  at  Bristol,  1624,  and  admitted,  1820. 

Area,  33,040  square  miles,  extreme  length,  300 
miles;  extreme  breadth,  210  miles;  shore  line,  over 
2,400  miles,  including  islands  ;  the  Penobscot,  Andros- 
coggin,  Saco,  St.  Croix,  Aroostook  and  St.  John  are 
the  most  important  rivers. 

Temperature  at  Portland:  winter,  23°  to  38°; 
summer,  63°  to  69°.  Rainfall  at  Brunswick,  45 
inches. 

Biddeford,  an  important  manufacturing  town,  has 
12,651  inhabitants,  and  Lewiston,  the  principal  seat  of 
cotton  manufactures,  19,083  population. 

Number  of  farms,  64,309;  average  value  per  acre, 
cleared  land,  $12.87 ;  woodland,  $12.66.  Hay  the  most 
valuable  crop. 

Lumbering,  one  of  the  chief  industries,  forests  cover 
ing  over  10,000,000  acres;  number  of  saw-mills,  848. 
Fisheries  give  employment  to  11,071  persons.  Valu 
able  slate-quarries  from  the  Kennebec  to  the  Penobs 
cot  ;  granite  is  obtained  in  blocks  of  immense  size.  The 
State  has  379  ship-building  establishments. 

Population,  incl.  1,451  Colored,  8  Chinese,  and  625 
Indians,  648,936. 

Number  of  colleges,  3;  system  of  common,  high 
and  normal  schools  excellent;  of  519,969  persons,  10 
years  old  and  upward,  3.5  per  cent,  are  unable  to 
read;  school  age,  4-21. 

Returned  to  New  York  City,  and  remaining  there 
about  3  weeks;  I  started  on  the  Pennsylvania  Rail 


—  250  — 

Road  to  explore  the  State  of  Pennsylvania  and  traveled 
direct  to  Philadelphia. 

The  city  of  Philadelphia  was  founded  by  William 
Penn,  who  came  over  from  England  in  1682,  accom 
panied  by  a  colony  of  Quakers,  and  purchased  the  site 
from  the  Indians. 

The  emigration  thither  was  very  rapid  and  in  1684 
the  population  was  estimated  at  2,500. 

Penn  presented  the  city  with  a  charter  in  1701. 
It  prospered  greatly  and  was  the  most  important  city 
in  the  country  during  the  colonial  period  and  for  more 
than  a  quarter  of  a  century  after  the  Revolution.  The 
first  Continental  Congress  assembled  here  in  1774,  as 
did  also  the  subsequent  Congresses  during  the  war. 
The  Declaration  of  Independence  was  made  and  issued 
here,  July  4,  1776.  The  Convention  which  formed 
the  Constitution  of  the  Republic  assembled  here  in 
May,  1787.  Here  resided  the  first  President  of  the 
United  States,  and  here  Congress  continued  to  meet 
until  1797.  Until  1799  it  was  the  capital  of  the  colony 
and  State  of  Pennsylvania,  and  from  1790  to  1800  was 
the  seat  of  the  Government  of  the  United  States.  The 
city  was  in  possession  of  the  British  from  September, 
1777,  to  June  1778,  a  result  of  the  unfortunate  battles 
of  Brandy  wine  and  Germantown.  Since  the  Revolu 
tion  the  city  has  grown  steadily  and  rapidly.  The 
population,  which  in  1800  was  67,811  has  increased 
to  846,984  in  1880.  The  commerce  of  Philadelphia  is 
large  and  increasing,  but  manufactures  are  its  chief 
source  of  wealth.  In  heavy  manufactures  Philadelphia 


—  251  — 

is  only  approached  by  Pittsburg.  The  leading  indus 
tries  are  the  manufacture  of  locomotives  and  all  kind 
of  iron-ware,  ships,  carpets,  woolen  and  cotton  goods, 
shoes,  umbrellas,  and  books.  In  commerce  Philadel 
phia  ranks  very  high  among  the  cities  of  the  United 
States. 

The  city  contains  numberless  fine  and  extensive 
public  and  private  buildings,  among  which  are  of 
special  note,  the  Merchants  Exchange,  the  U.  S.  Cus 
tom  House,  the  Provident  Life  and  Trust  Company's, 
the  Philadelphia  Trust  Company's,  the  Farmers  and 
Mechanic's  Bank,  the  Philadelphia  Bank,  the  Pennsyl 
vania  Life  Insurance  Company's,  the  costly  buildings 
of  the  Fidelity  Safe  Deposit  Company,  the  First  Na 
tional  Bank  and  the  Guarantee  Trust  and  Safe  De 
posit  Company. 

Of  extraordinary  interest  is:  Independence  Hall. 
In  the  Hall,  the  Continental  Congress  met,  and  here  on 
July  4,  1776,  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was 
adopted  and  publicly  proclaimed  from  the  steps  on  the 
same  day.  The  "  Liberty  Bell,"  the  first  bell  rung  in 
the  United  States  after  the  passage  of  Declaration,  is 
preserved  in  the  Hall.  In  Congress  Hall,  in  the  sec 
ond  story,  Washington  delivered  his  farewell  address. 
Carpenter's  Hall,  where  in  1774  the  first  Congress  of 
the  United  Colonies  assesmbled,  is  also  of  great  in 
terest. 

Other  noteworthy  public  buildings  and  educational 
and  charitable  institutions  are:  the  Philadelphia  Li 
brary,  founded  in  1731  through  the  influence  of  Ben- 


959 


jamin  Franklin,  whose  grave  is  in  the  neighborhood, 
the  Pennsylvania  Hospital,  the  Post  Office,  Mercantile 
Library,  U.  S.  Mint,  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences, 
the  Ridgway  Library,  Academy  of  Music,  Public  Build 
ings  (for  law-courts  and  public  offices),  the  Union 
League  Club,  Masonic  Temple,  the  Girard  College, 
the  University  of  Pennsylvania,  Pennsylvania  Hospi 
tal  for  the  Insane,  the  Eastern  Penitentiary  and  the  U. 
S.  Naval  Asylum,  and  hundred  others. 

Among  the  many  churches  of  Philadelphia,  Christ 
Church,  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  and 
the  Synagogue  Eodef  Shalom  deserve  special  mention 
as  does  Baptist  Beth-Eden  Church. 

The  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences  contains  a  library 
of  26,000  volumes  and  extensive  collections  in  zoology, 
ornithology,  geology,  mineralogy,  conchology,  ethno 
logy,  archaeology  and  botany.  The  museum  contains 
about  250,000  specimens,  and  Agassiz  pronounced  it 
one  of  the  finest  natural  science  collections  in  the 
world. 

On  Washington  Square,  a  public  park  in  the  heart 
of  the  city,  nearly  every  variety  of  tree  that  will  grow 
in  this  climate,  whether  indigenous  or  not,  is  contained 
and  not  far  from  here  is  the  Athenaeum,  with  a  library 
of  25,000  volumes.  An  other  famous  institution  is 
Jefferson  Medical  College,  and  the  Academy  of  Fine 
Arts  has  an  excellent  collection  of  pictures,  statuary, 
casts,  etc. 

Fairmount  Park  is  the  largest  city  park  in  the 
world,  extends  along  both  banks  of  the  Schuylkill 


—  253  — 

river  for  more  than  7  miles  and  along  both  banks  of 
the  Wissahickon  Creek  for  more  than  6  miles  and  em 
bracing  a  total  area  of  2,740  acres.  Fairmount  Hill 
is  the  site  of  4  reservoirs  of  the  Schuylkill  Water- 
Works,  for  the  supply  of  the  city,  and  the  Zoological 
Gardens  in  the  Park  contain  a  fine  assortment  of  Am 
erican  and  European  animals. 

Memorial  Hall,  a  splendid  edifice  of  stone,  was 
used  as  an  art  gallery  during  the  Exposition  in  1876 
and  is  designed  for  a  permanent  art  and  industrial  col 
lection.  The  Horticultural  Building,  also  in  the  Park, 
is  a  conversatory  filled  with  tropical  and  other  plants 
and  around  it  are  35  acres  of  ground  devoted  to  horti 
cultural  purposes.  Laurel  Hill,  adjoining  the  upper 
part  of  East  Fairmount  Park  is  one  of  the  most  beauti 
ful  cemeteries  in  the  country. 

I  made  Philadelphia  my  starting-point  for  the  ex 
cursions  into  the  interior  of  this  State,  and  bound  en 
route  to  Pottsville,  I  visited  Valley  Forge,  memorable 
as  the  headquarters  of  General  Washington  and  the 
American  army  during  the  dismal  winter  of  1777. 

The  building  occupied  by  Washington  is  still  stand 
ing  near  the  railroad.  4  miles  from  the  latter  place, 
in  Phoenix ville,  a  flourishing  town  of  7,000  inhabitants, 
I  had  occasion  to  see  the  Phoenix  Iron  Works,  the 
largest  in  America,  and  several  rolling-mills  and  fur 
naces. 

Beyond  Phcenixville  the  train  traverses  a  tunnel 
2,000  ft.  long  and  passes  through  Pottstown,  a  pretty 
village,  crossing  the  Manatawny  Creek  and  runs  to 


—  254  — 

Reading,  the  third  city  in  Pennsylvania  in  manufac 
tures  and  with  a  population  of  43,280  in  1880.  It  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  an  elevated  and  ascending  plain, 
backed  E.  by  Penn's  Mountain  and  S.  by  the  Never- 
sink  Mountain,  from  both  of  which  flow  streams  of  pure 
water,  abundantly  supplying  the  city.  Of  public 
buildings  the  following  are  noteworthy :  the  Court 
House,  City  Hall,  the  Grand  Opera  House,  Academy 
of  Music,  and  the  County  Prison. 

Among  the  31  churches,  the  Trinity  and  the 
Christ  Church  are  the  most  imposing.  There  is  a 
large  trade  in  the  city,  the  same  being  surrounded  by 
a  rich  farming  country.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  of 
this  district  are  of  German  origin,  and  a  dialect  of 
German,  known  as  Pennsylvania  Dutch,  still  prevails 
to  sonic  extent.  The  production  and  working  of  iron 
holds  the  first  rank  in  the  manufactures  of  this  place. 
There  are  some  interesting  resorts  in  the  vicinity. 

At  Reading  the  route  is  intersected  by  the  Allen- 
town  line,  and  runs  to  the  city  of  Allentown,  a  thriving 
city  of  18,000  inhabitants,  built  upon  an  eminence  be 
tween  Jordan  Creek  and  Lehigh  River.  The  County 
Court  House  and  County  Prison  are  handsome  edifices 
and  several  of  the  school-buildings  are  noteworthy. 
Muhlenberg  College  is  a  fine  institute,  and  Mammoth 
Rock,  1,000  ft.  high,  and  several  mineral  springs  near 
the  city,  are  interesting  points.  In  Betlchem,  not  far 
from  Allentown,  is  the  chief  seat  of  the  Moravians,  or 
United  Brethren,  who  settled  here  under  Count  Zinzen- 
dorf  in  1741.  The  Moravian  Female  Seminary, 


—  255  — 

founded  in  1749,  has  a  high  reputation.  The  Lehigh 
University  founded  in  1865  and  liberally  endowed  by 
Asa  Packer,  and  in  which  tuition  in  all  branches  is 
free,  stands  high  amongst  the  educational  institutions 
in  the  country.  It  has  10,000  inhabitants  and  most 
of  the  old  Moravian  buildings  are  in  fair  state  of  pre 
servation. 

Returning  over  the  same  road,  I  proceeded  on  my 
journey  to  the  famous,  world-renown  Cornwall  Ore 
Banks,  touching  Lebanon,  on  the  Swatara  River  and 
with  7,000  inhabitants.  The  Cornwall  Ore  Banks  are 
three  hills  formed  of  masses  of  iron-ore,  and  called 
Grassy,  Middle  and  Big  Hill.  It  has  been  estimated 
that  Big  Hill  contains  40  million  tons  of  ore  above  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  yielding  70 .  per  cent,  of  pure 
iron.  Veins  of  copper  are  found  among  the  iron,  and 
6  miles  from  Lebanon,  near  the  Swatara  River,  are 
quarries  of  fine  gray  marble. 

Resuming  my  journey  to  the  heart  of  the  Pennsyl 
vania  coal-region,  I  reached  the  little  village  of  Mauch 
Chunk.  It  lies  in  a  narrow  gorge  between  and  among 
high  mountains,  its  foot  resting  on  the  Lehigh  River 
and  its  body  lying  along  the  hillsides,  in  the  midst  of 
some  of  the  wildest  and  most  picturesque  scenery  in 
America. 

The  village  is  but  one  street  wide,  and  the  valley 
is  so  narrow  that  the  dwelling-houses  usually  have  their 
gardens  and  outhouses  perched  above  the  roof,  and 
there  is  barely  room  for  the  2  railroads,  river,  street 
and  canal,  which  pass  through  the  gorge  side  by  side. 


—  256  — 

Some  fine  views  are  obtained  from  the  Flagstaff  Peak. 
2  miles  from  the  village,  on  Broad  Mountain,  is  a  wild 
and  beautiful  ravine,  2,700  ft.  long  and  from  120  to 
240  ft.  wide,  presenting  a  continuous  succession  of  cas 
cades,  rapids,  and  pools.  The  coal  trains  passing 
through  the  village  every  day,  and  the  constant  pro 
cession  of  canal  boats  laden  with  coal  are  almost 
numberless.  The  coal  mines  which  supply  this  traffic 
are  situated  in  the  Wyoming,  Hazelton,  Beaver 
Meadow,  Mahanoy,  and  Lehigh  regions,  on  Sharp  and 
Black  Mountains.  The  "Switch  Back,"  used  only  as 
a  pleasure  road,  is  run  by  gravity.  The  cars  are 
drawn  to  the  top  of  Mount  Pisgah  by  a  powerful  engine 
on  the  summit,  whence  they  descend  6  miles,  by 
gravity,  to  the  foot- of  Mount  Jefferson,  where  they  are 
again  taken  up  by  means  of  a  plane,  which  ascends 
462  ft.  in  a  length  of  2,070  ft.  and  then  run  on  the 
Summit  Hill.  From  that  point  the  cars  return,  all  the 
way,  by  the  "  Back  Track,77  or  gravity  road,  to  Mauch 
Chunk,  landing  the  passengers  but  a  short  distance 
from  the  spot  where  they  commenced  the  ascent  over 
Mount  Pisgah.  After  a  close  inspection  of  these  and 
other  coal  mines  in  that  region,  I  returned  to  Phila 
delphia  for  the  purpose  of  assorting  my  mineral  and 
geological  collection,  and  to  rectify  my  table  of  statis 
tics,  and  dispatching  specimens  to  Europe. 

This  done,  I  started  for  Gettysburg,  136  miles  from 
Philadelphia.  It  is  a  town  of  2,800  inhabitants  and  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  a  fertile  plain,  surrounded  by 
hills.  The  Pennsylvania  College  and  the  Lutheran 


—  257  — 

Theological  Seminary  are  among  the  institutions  of  the 
place.  The  former  has  a  library  of  18,300  volumes 
and  in  the  library  of  the  latter  are  10,100  volumes. 
Near  by  are  the  Gettysburg  Springs  with  Katalysine 
waters.  The  chief  interest  of  Gettysburg  is  historic. 
A  great  battle,  perhaps  the  most  important  of  the  civil 
war,  was  fought  here  on  the  1st,  2d  and  3d  of  July, 
1863,  between  the  National  forces  under  General 
Meade  and  the  Confederate  army  under  General  Lee. 
Cemetery  Hill  forms  the  central  and  most  striking 
feature  of  Gettysburg.  Here  were  the  Union  head 
quarters,  and  about  a  mile  distant  is  Seminary  Ridge, 
on  which  were  General  Lee's  headquarters  and  the 
bulk  of  the  Confederate  forces.  The  National  Cemetery, 
containing  the  remains  of  the  Union  soldiers  who  fell 
in  the  battle  of  Gettysburg,  was  dedicated  with  imposing 
ceremonies,  and  an  impressive  address  by  President 
Lincoln,  on  November  19,  1863.  A  Soldiers'  Monu 
ment,  dedicated  July  4,  1868,  occupies  the  crown  of 
the  hill,  is  60  ft.  high,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  colossal 
marble  statue  of  Liberty.  At  the  base  of  the  pedestal 
are  4  buttresses  bearing  colossal  marble  statues  of  War, 
History,  Peace,  and  Plenty.  Around  the  monument 
are  arranged  the  graves  of  the  dead.  The  number  of 
bodies  interred  here  is  3,564,  of  which  944  have  not  been 
identified.  Near  the  entrance  to  the  Cemetery  is  the 
bronze  statue  of  Major-General  Reynolds,  who  was 
killed  in  the  battle.  Opposite  the  cemetery  is  an 
observatory,  60  ft.  high,  from  which  a  fine  view  of  the 
entire  battle-field  and  surrounding  country  is  obtained. 


—  258  — 

York,  situated  on  the  Codorus  Creek,  and  contain 
ing  14,000  inhabitants,  is  on  the  road  to  Harrisburg. 
It  was  settled  in  1741,  incorporated  in  1787,  and  the 
Continental  Congress  sat  here  from  September  30,  1777, 
to  July  1778.  During  the  Confederate  invasion  of 
Pensylvania  in  1863,  it  was  occupied  by  Early,  who 
levied  a  contribution  of  $100,000  on  the  citizens,  but 
left  the  place  unharmed.  York  contains  several  large 
car-shops,  some  of  the  most  extensive  manufactories  of 
agricultural  implements  in  the  country,  a  shoe  and  a 
match  factory,  and  the  Codorus  paper-mills.  After 
traversing  York  for  some  distance,  the  train  descends 
into  the  rich  Codorus  valley,  and  from  Bridgeport  a 
long  bridge  crosses  the  Susquehanna  river  to  Harris- 
burg,  the  capital  of  the  State,  beautifully  situated  on 
the  E.  bank  of  the  Susquehanna  river.  The  city  is  hand 
somely  built  and  lies  in  midst  a  magnificent  scenery. 

The  State  House  contains  in  its  library  30,000 
volumes  and  cabinets  of  curiosities,  and  on  the  grounds 
is  a  beautiful  monument,  commemorating  the  soldiers 
who  fell  in  the  Mexican  War.  The  State  Arsenal, 
Court  House,  and  the  State  Lunatic  Asylum  are  spac 
ious  and  imposing  buildings.  The  iron  manufactures  of 
Harrisburg  are  extensive,  and  6  important  railways 
converge  here. 

At  the  head  of  the  Tuckahoe  Valley  and  at  the  foot 
of  the  Alleghanies  is  Altoona,  a  pretty  city  of  20,000  in 
habitants,  built  up  since  1850,  when  it  was  a  primtive 
forest,  by  being  selected  as  the  site  of  the  large  machine- 
shops  of  the  Pensylvania  R.  R. 


-  259 

Just  beyond  Altoona  the  asceltf  of  the  Alleghanies 
begins,  and  for  the  next  10  to  11  miles  some  of  the 
most  brilliant  scenery  and  marvellous  engineering  on 
the  whole  line  are  to  be  seen.  The  road  mounts 
within  this  distance  to  the  tunnel  at  the  summit  by  so 
steep  a  grade  that,  while  in  the  ascent  double  power  is 
required  to  move  the  train,  the  entire  distance  of  descent 
is  run  without  steam,  the  speed  of  the  train  being  regu 
lated  by  the  brakes. 

The  curves  at  some  points  are  very  short  and  the 
road  hugs  the  sides  of  the  mountains.  The  summit 
of  the  mountain  is  pierced  by  a  tunnel  3,612  ft.  long, 
through  which  the  train  passes  before  commencing  to 
descend  the  W.  slope. 

Cresson  Springs,  24  miles  beyond  the  tunnel,  are 
3,000  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  waters  of  the  7  springs 
are  famous  for  their  curative  virtues.  The  climate  is 
excellent  and  the  thermometer  rarely  reaches  75°  dur 
ing  the  hottest  summer  month.  In  descending  the 
mountains  from  Cresson  Springs  the  stream,  almost 
continuously  in  sight,  is  the  Conemaugh  Creek,  which 
is  crossed  by  a  stone  viaduct  near  Conemaugh  Station, 
the  terminus  of  the  mountain  division  of  the  road. 

3  miles  from  the  station  is  Johnstown,  a  busy  manu 
facturing  borough  at  the  confluence  of  the  Conemaugh 
and  Stony  Creeks.  The  Cambria  Iron- Works  near  by, 
are  among  the  most  extensive  in  the  United  States. 
70  miles  from  here  is  Pittsburg,  the  second  city  of 
Pennsylvania  in  population  and  importance,  and  one  of 
the  chief  manufacturing  cities  in  America.  Situated 


—  260  — 

at  the  confluence  of  the  Alleghany  and  Monongahela 
rivers,  which  here  form  the  Ohio,  the  city  occupies  the 
delta  between  the  two  rivers  and  has  about  190,000 
inhabitants.  9  bridges  span  the  Alleghany  river  and 
5  the  Monongahela.  From  its  situation,  Pittsburg  en 
joys  excellent  commercial  facilities  and  is  the  center  of 
an  extensive  commerce  with  the  Western  States  and 
Territories ;  while  its  vicinity  to  the  inexhaustible  iron 
and  coal  mines  of  the  State  made  it  a  great  manufactur 
ing  center.  The  extent  of  its  steel,  glass,  and  iron 
manufactures  has  given  it  the  name  of  "Iron  City," 
while  the  heavy  pall  of  smoke  that  constantly  over 
hangs  it  has  caused  it  to  be  styled  the  "Smoky  City." 
The  manufactories  of  iron,  steel,  and  glass  in  Pittsburg 
have  immense  dimensions.  35,000  hands  are  em 
ployed  in  the  3  mentioned  interests  j  some  of  the  works 
employing  from  1,000  to  3,000  hands  each.  In  the 
coal  and  coke  interests  of  the  city  over  20,000  people 
are  constantly  employed. 

Among  the  public  buildings  are  the  Municipal 
Hall,  the  Custom  House  and  Post  Office,  the  U.  S. 
Arsensal,  and  the  New  Court  House,  in  course  of 
erection,  the  most  prominent. 

Of  the  170  churches,  the  most  imposing  is  the 
Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Paul,  and  Trinity 
Church  (Episcopal).  The  Mercantile  library  contains 
17,000  volumes  and  in  the  same  building  are  the  col 
lections  of  the  Pittsburg  Art  Association.  The  Pitts 
burg  Female  College  and  the  Pennsylvania  Female 
College  are  flourishing  institutions.  The  Western 


—  261  — 

Pennsylvania  Hospital,  the  City  General  Hospital,  the 
Homseopathic  Hospital,  Mercy  Hospital,  the  Episcopal 
Church  Home,  the  Convent  of  the  Sisters  of  Mercy, 
the  oldest  house  of  the  order  in  America,  and  the 
Roman  Catholic  Orphan  Asylum,  are  the  principal 
charitable  institutions  in  the  city.  The  new  Riverside 
Penitentiary,  the  Passionist  Monastery  of  St.  Paul,  and 
the  Franciscan  Convent  are  at  Manchester,  2  miles  be 
low  Pittsburg,  now  a  part  of  Allegheny  City. 

Since  the  introduction  of  Natural  Gas  and  its  supply 
to  the  great  iron  and  glass  works  of  Pittsburg,  instead 
of  other  costly  fuel,  the  manufacturing  and  commercial 
prosperity  of  that  city  has  entered  upon  a  new  era, 
which  places  it  on  a  level  with  some  of  the  largest 
cities  in  the  United  States.  The  Natural-Gas  industry 
in  Western  Pennsylvania,  especially  in  Pittsburg, 
where  the  gas  is  also  used  for  domestic  purposes,  has 
rapidly  developed  and  promises  to  become  a  source  of 
immense  value. 

The  so-called  coal-fields  of  Pittsburg  comprise  an 
area  of  15,000  square  miles  and,  according  to  asser 
tions  made  by  famous  geologists  in  the  State  of  Penn 
sylvania,  will  not  exhaust  in  a  thousand  years.  The 
coal  trade  in  Pittsburg  can  almost  be  called  its 
speciality,  but  not  only  coal,  in  its  crude  state,  is  it, 
that  gives  it  such  importance,  the  manufacture  of  coke 
adds  greatly  to  the  interests  of  this  wealthy  and  unique 
city  in  the  Universe. 

Though  coke  has  been  an  important  product  of 
Western  Pennsylvania  as  far  back  as  60  years,  its 


—  262  — 

present  importance  has  gradually  developed  itself 
within  the  last  20  years. 

The  chief  area  of  the  coke  industry  is  centred  in 
and  around  Conncllsville,  30  to  50  miles  from  Pitts 
burg,  in  Alleghany,  Westmoreland,  and  Fayette  Coun 
ties,  but  is  directed  by  Pittsburg  iirms.  During  my 
stay  in  Pittsburg  I  had  received  many  favors  and 
valuable  services  of  the  Austrian  Consul  Mr.  Scham- 
berg,  the  well-known  State  Geologist,  Professor  Chas. 
A.  Ashburner,  and  the  Attorney,  Mr.  Josiah  Cohen, 
and  I  herewith  express  my  heartfelt  thanks  to  them. 

Allegheny  City,  opposite  Pittsburg,  with  which  it 
is  connected  by  9  bridges,  is  situated  on  the  W.  bank 
of  the  Alleghany  River.  Its  manufacturing  interests 
are  large.  In  L880  the  city  had  a  population  of  78,- 
681.  The  finest  church  in  the  city  is  St.  Peter's 
(Catholic),  and  there  are  several  Theological  Seminar 
ies.  The  Western  University  formerly  in  Pittsburg 
has  a  valuable  geological  and  natural-history  collection. 
The  Allegheny  Observatory  is  a  department  of  this 
institution.  The  Allegheny  General  Hospital  is  the 
principal  hospital,  and  the  Soldiers  Monument,  erected 
to  the  memory  of  the  4,000  men  of  Alleghany  County 
who  lost  their  lives  in  the  civil  war,  is  very  graceful. 

In  the  center  of  the  Wyoming  Valley,  picturesquely 
situated  on  the  Susquehanna,  river,  is  Wilkesbarrc,  a 
prosperous  city  of  23,393  inhabitants,  with  handsome 
public  and  private  buildings.  There  are  several  fine 
churches  and  a  good  library  in  the  city. 

9  miles  beyond  Wilkesbarre  is  Pittson,  on  the  Sus- 


—  263  — 

quehanna,  W.  of  the  town  are  the  Lackawannock 
Mountains  filled  with  rich  coal  mines  which  here  find 
an  outlet. 

From  this  latter  place  I  traveled  to  Oil  City,  the 
center  and  headquarters  of  the  Oil  Region.  It  is 
situated  on  the  Alleghany  river  at  the  mouth  of  Oil 
Creek.  Its  population  is  8,000  and,  though  not  par 
ticularly  attractive,  is  interesting  on  account  of  wit 
nessing  the  various  operations  of  obtaining,  refining, 
barreling,  gauging  and  shipping  the  precious  petrol 
eum.  The  wells  in  the  vicinity  yield  600  barrels 
daily,  and  about  two  million  barrels  are  annually  sent 
thence  to  market. 

The  great  iron  tanks  for  storing  the  oil  are  worth 
visiting. 

18  miles  beyond  Oil  City,  on  the  road  to  Buffalo,  is 
Titusville,  a  city  of  10,000  inhabitants  and  the  largest 
place  in  the  Oil  Regions.  It  is  situated  in  a  broad 
and  beautiful  valley,  through  which  flows  Oil  Creek. 
The  city  is  nicely  built  and  owes  its  rapid  growth  and 
prosperity  mainly  to  the  oil  wells  in  the  vicinity,  which 
are  very  productive  5  and  here  are  the  capacious  re 
fineries  of  the  Standard  Oil  Company.  Besides  the 
oil- works  there  are  extensive  iron- works,  foundries  and 
machine-shops,  and  various  other  manufactories. 

Before  concluding  my  six  weeks  travels  through 
the  State,  I  visited  Scranton  and  Carbondale.  Scran- 
ton  is  a  flourishing  city,  occupying  the  plateau  at  the 
confluence  of  Roaring  Brook  and  the  Lackawanna 
river. 


—  264  — 

It  is  handsomely  laid  out  and  has  45,850  inhabi 
tants.  Its  importance  is  due  to  its  situation  in  the 
most  northern  of  the  anthracite  basins,  and  to  its  rail 
road  facilities.  The  trade  in  mining  supplies  is  ex 
tensive,  and  the  shipments  of  coal  are  immense.  Its 
iron  manufactures  are  very  important,  and  there  are 
large  blast-furnaces,  rolling-mills,  foundries,  machine- 
shops,  etc. 

Carbon  dale  has  8,000  inhabitants  and  is  at  the  N. 
end  of  the  anthracite  coal  region,  near  several  ex 
tremely  rich  coal-mines.  The  chief  object  of  interest 
here  is  the  Gravity  Railroad,  a  series  of  inclined  planes 
on  which  immense  coal-trains  are  sent  over  the  moun 
tains  to  and  from  Honesdale,  on  the  Delaware  and 
Hudson  Canal,  with  no  impelling  force  but  gravity, 
save  at  one  point. 

The  Keystone  State,  Pennsylvania,  one  of  the  13  or 
iginal  States,  is  named  in  honor  of  William  Penn,  the 
grantee.  First  permanent  settlement  made  by  Swedes 
at  Chester,  1638. 

Area,  45,215  square  miles;  extreme  length,  303 
miles;  greatest  breadth,  176  miles. 

Largest  rivers,  Delaware,  Susquehanna,  Alleghany, 
Monongahela,  Ohio. 

Temperature  at  Philadelphia:  winter,  31°  to  42°  ; 
summer,  70°  to  75°;  rainfall,  44  inches. 

Philadelphia  founded  1682 ;  second  city  in  the 
United  States.  Philadelphia,  Pittsburg  and  Erie  are 
ports  of  entry. 

Number  of  farms,  156;357,  averaging  about  100 


—  265  — 

acres  each  ;  average  value  per  acre,  cleared  land,  $45.- 
75;  woodland,  $29.75. 

Manufacture  of  pig  iron  the  greatest  industry; 
number  of  manufacturing  establishments,  10,381;  flour 
and  grist-mills,  2,873 ;  iron  and  steel  works,  321 ; 
sawed  lumber,  2,826 ;  paper-mills,  78 ;  woolen-goods,  324. 

Anthracite  coal  field  in  central  division;  bitumin 
ous  in  west  and  southwest.  Produces  all  the  anthracite 
and  more  than  half  the  bituminous  coal  of  the  United 
States.  Ranks  first  in  rye,  iron  and  steel,  petroleum 
and  coal;  second  in  buckwheat,  potatoes  and  printing 
and  publishing. 

Population  of  4,282,891  includes  85,535  Colored, 
148  Chinese,  8  Japanese  and  184  Indians. 

Non-tax  payers  and  political  bribers  excluded  from 
voting. 

Number  of  colleges,  26 ;  enrolled  in  public  schools, 
945,345;  school  age,  6-21. 

On  the  route  from  Philadelphia  to  Baltimore,  Mary 
land,  the  city  of  Chester,  the  seat  of  the  famous  ship 
building  establishment  of  the  late  John  Roach,  is  pass 
ed.  Chester  has  14,996  inhabitants  and  is  interesting 
as  the  spot  where  in  September,  1777,  the  battle  on 
the  banks  of  the  Brandy  wine  was  fought.  14  miles 
from  Chester  is  the  city  of  Wilmington,  Delaware,  the 
most  important  in  that  State,  with  a  population  of  42,- 
500,  and  various  and  extensive  manufactures,  embrac 
ing  ship-building,  car-factories,  cotton  and  woolen 
manufactures,  flour-mills,  powder-mills,  and  shoe  and 
leather  factories,  The  city  is  nicely  laid  out  and  con- 


—  266  — 

tains  several  fine  public  and  private  buildings  and 
handsome  churches. 

At  Havre  de  Grace,  the  Susquehanna  river  is 
crossed  on  a  lofty  iron  bridge  nearly  a  mile  long,  and 
Baltimore  is  entered  into.  Baltimore  is  the  chief  city 
of  Maryland  and  in  population  and  commerce  one  of 
the  most  important  in  the  Union.  It  is  picturesquely 
situated  on  the  N.  branch  of  the  Patapsco  river,  14 
miles  from  its  entrance  into  Chesapeake  Bay,  and  about 
200  miles  from  the  ocean.  Jones's  Falls,  a  small 
stream  running  N.  and  S.,  spanned  by  several  bridges, 
divides  the  city  into  two  nearly  equal  parts  known  as 
East  and  West  Baltimore. 

The  harbor  is  capacious  and  safe,  consisting  of  an 
inner  basin  and  an  outer  harbor  accessible  to  the  larg 
est  ships.  The  entrance  is  defended  by  Fort  McHenry, 
which  was  unsuccessfully  bombarded  by  the  British 
fleet  in  the  war  of  1812. 

The  present  site  of  Baltimore  was  chosen  in  1729 
and  its  name  was  given  it  in  1745,  in  honor  of  Lord 
Baltimore,  the  proprietary  of  Maryland.  The  charter 
of  the  city  dates  from  1797.  The  population  which  at 
that  time  was  26,000,  had  increased  by  1860  to  212,- 
418,  and  in  1880  it  had  reached  332,190.  The  com 
merce  of  the  city  is  very  large,  and  through  the  two 
rail  roads  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  and  the  Northern 
Central,  the  city  is  successfully  competing  for  the  trade 
of  the  north  and  northwest.  Large  shipments  of  grain 
are  made  to  Europe,  and  tobacco,  cotton,  petroleum, 
bacon,  butter,  cheese  and  lard,  are  also  exported. 


—  267  — 

Baltimore  is  the  chief  point  for  working  the  rich 
copper-ores  of  Lake  Superior,  and  produces  nearly 
4,000  tons  of  refined  copper  yearly ;  the  smelting-works 
are  in  Canton,  and  employ  1,000  men.  There  are  also 
iron-works,  rolling-mills,  nail-factories,  locomotive- 
works,  cotton-factories,  and  other  industrial  establish 
ments,  2,261  in  all.  The  canning  of  oysters,  vege 
tables  and  fruits,  is  estimated  to  reach  the  annual  value 
of  $10,000,000;  and  half  a  million  hides  are  annually 
made  into  leather  and  sent  to  New  England. 

Baltimore  is  called  the  u  Monumental  City,"  from 
the  number  of  its  monuments ;  its  chief  monument  is 
the  Washington  Monument,  and  Battle  Monument  was 
erected  1815,  to  the  memory  of  those  who  fell  defend 
ing  the  city  from  the  British  in  September,  1814. 

There  are  a  great  many  churches  in  this  city, 
among  which  the  following  are  the  finest :  the  Cathe 
dral,  Mount  Vernon  Church,  First  Presbyterian,  and 
Unitarian  Church.  The  Hebrew  Synagogue  is  a  large 
and  handsome  edifice. 

Of  educational  institutions,  of  which  there  are  also 
a  great  number,  the  first  of  all,  and  the  greatest  Li 
Maryland  is  the  Johns  Hopkins  University. 

The  Peabody  Institute,  containing  75,000  volumes 
in  its  library  j  the  Athenoeum,  with  the  Baltimore 
Library  (15,000  volumes),  and  the  collections  of  the 
Maryland  Historical  Society,  comprising  a  library  of 
10,000  volumes,  numerous  historical  relics  and  pictures 
and  statuary,  the  Maryland  Institute,  designed  for 
the  promotion  of  the  mechanic  arts,  containing  a 


—  268  — 

library  of  14,000  volumes;  the  Academy  of  Science 
with  a  fine  museum  of  natural  history,  including  rich 
collections  of  birds  and  minerals,  an'd  a  complete  repre 
sentation  of  the  flora  and  fauna  of  Maryland;  the  State 
Normal  School;  the  City  college;  and  the  Enoch  Pratt 
Free  Libray,  containing  25,000  volumes,  are  of  high 
standing. 

Prominent  charitable  institutions  are  the  Johns 
Hopkins  Hospital,  connected  with  the  Medical  Depart 
ment  of  the  Johns  Hopkins  University;  the  Maryland 
Hospital  for  the  Insane;  the  Mount  Hope  Hospital; 
the  State  Institution  for  the  Instruction  of  the  Blind  ; 
the  Episcopal  Church  Home;  State  Insane  Asylum; 
Bay  View  Asylum ;  the  Sheppard  Asylum  for  the  In 
sane  ;  and  the  Mount  Hope  Retreat  for  the  Insane  and 
Sick,  4  miles  from  the  city. 

The  City  Hall,  the  Exchange  and  the  Masonic 
Temple  are  exceedingly  elegant  structures,  and 
there  are  numerous  fine  business  buildings.  Druid  Hill 
Park,  680  acres  in  area,  is  a  beautiful  pleasure 
ground,  and  from  the  tower  at  the  head  of  Druid 
Hill  Lake,  a  superb  view  of  the  city  and  the  harbor 
is  obtained.  On  Federal  Hill,  a  commanding  emi 
nence  on  the  S.  side  of  the  inner  basin,  is  the  U.  S. 
Signal  Station.  The  Baltimore  and  Potomac  Tunnel, 
next  to  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  the  largest  in  America, 
(6,969  ft.)  and  the  Union  Tunnel,  (3,410  ft.)  are  among 
the  wonders  of  Baltimore. 

At  an  excursion  to  Cumberland  in  the  mountain 
region,  and  which  in  point'  of  population  and  commerce 


—  269  — 

is  the  second  city,  I  was  greatly  surprised  to  find  such 
an  enormous  activity  in  it.  It  has  11,000  inhabitants 
and  is  the  site  of  the  great  rolling-mills  of  the  R.  R. 
Company,  for  the  manufacture  of  steel  rails.  A  few 
miles  W.  of  Cumberland  upon  the  summit  of  the  Alle- 
ghanies,  begins  the  district  known  as  the  Cumberland 
Coal  Regions,  which  extends  W.  to  the  Ohio  River. 
On  that  pretty  long  journey  I  had  occasion  to  study 
the  country  profoundly,  and  started  for  the  capital  of 
the  State,  Annapolis.  The  capital  contains  the  U.  S. 
Naval  Academy,  some  excellent  State  Institutions,  and 
5,744  inhabitants.  The  situation  of  Annapolis  is  of 
great  beauty,  on  Chesapeake  Bay. 

The  State  of  Maryland,  named  in  honor  of  Maria, 
wife  of  Charles  II,  King  of  England,  is  one  of  the  1 3 
original  States ;  first  settlement  made  by  English 
Roman  Catholics  at  St.  Mary's,  1634. 

Area,  12,210  square  miles;  greatest  length,  east 
and  west,  196  miles;  sea  coast,  33  miles;  or,  including 
the  tidewater  region  of  the  Chesapeake  Bay,  41 1  miles; 
and,  with  shores  of  islands,  509  miles. 

Temperature  at  Baltimore:  winter,  33°  to  41°; 
summer,  73°  to  79°.  Rainfall,  41  inches. 

Number  of  farms,  40,517;  average  value  per  acre, 
cleared  land,  $35.50;  woodland,  $24.65.  Number  of 
manufacturing  establishments,  6,787;  hands  employed, 
74,945;  flour  and  grist  mills,  546. 

Copper  is  found  in  Frederick  and  Carroll  counties; 
iron  ore  in  Alleghany,  Anne  Arundel,  Carroll,  Balti 
more,  Frederick  and  Prince  George's  counties. 


—   270  — 

Population,  934,943,  incl.  210,230  colored,  5 
Chinese  and  15  Indians.  Slaves  in  I860,  87,189. 
Bribers  excluded  from  voting.  Number  of  colleges, 
11;  school  population,  319,201 5  school  age,  5-20. 

40  miles  from  Baltimore  lies  Washington  City,  the 
capital  of  the  Republic.  Owing  to  its  number  and 
magnificence  of  its  public  buildings,  Washington  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting  cities  in  America.  It  is  situated 
on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Potomac  river,  at  its  confluence 
with  the  Eastern  Branch. 

The  site  of  Washington  City  was  selected  through 
the  agency  of  Washington,  who  himself  laid  the  corner 
stone  of  the  Capitol,  on  September  18,  1793,  seven 
years  before  the  seat  of  government  was  removed 
thither  from  Philadelphia.  Under  Washington's  di 
rection  the  city  was  planned  and  laid  out  by  Andrew 
Ellicott.  It  appears  to  have  been  Washington's  desire 
that  it  should  be  called  the  "Federal  City,"  but  the 
name  of  "the  city  of  Washington"  was  conferred  upon 
it  on  September  9,  1791.  Its  ancient  name  was  Cono- 
cocheague,  derived  from  a  rapid  stream  of  that  name 
which  ran  near  the  city,  and  which,  in  the  Indian 
tongue,  means  the  Roaring  Brook.  The  city  was  in 
corporated  May  3,  1802.  Its  population  in  1860  was 
60,000,  and  1880,  147,307. 

The  commerce  and  manufactures  of  Washington 
are  unimportant.  The  public  buildings  are  the  chief 
attraction  of  Washington,  and  the  Capitol  is  probably 
the  most  magnificent  public  edifice  in  the  world.  It  is 
almost  impossible  to  give  a  true  description  of  all  the 


—  271  — 

curiosities  and  brilliant  ornamentations  of  this  unique 
marvel  of  monumental  architecture. 

The  Library  of  Congress  is  the  largest  collection  in 
the  United  States,  and  numbers  now  nearly  450,000 
volumes,  exclusive  of  pamphlets,  and  is  increasing  at 
the  rate  of  10,000  to  15,000  volumes  a  year.  The  total 
cost  of  the  Capitol  was  $13,000,000. 

The  Executive  Mansion,  usually  called  the  "White 
House,"  whose  corner-stone  was  laid  in  1792,  was  first 
occupied  by  President  Adams  in  1800.  The  building 
stands  on  an  area  comprising  75  acres,  handsomely 
laid  out,  and  contains  in  the  inclosed  20  acres  of  ground 
for  the  President's  private  use,  extensive  conservatories 
and  a  beautiful  fountain. 

The  U.  S.  Treasury,  State,  War,  and  Navy  Depart 
ments,  Patent  Office,  Department  of  Agriculture,  Post 
Office  Department,  and  the  Pension  Building  are  exten 
sive  and  brilliant  structures. 

Smithsonian  Institution,  founded  by  James  Smith- 
son,  an  Englishman,  "  for  the  increase  and  diffusion  of 
knowledge  among  men,"  contains  a  museum  of  natural 
history,  with  numerous  specimens,  and  metallurgical, 
mineralogical  and  ethnological  collections,  with  many 
curiosities. 

In  the  "Annex"  of  the  Institution  is  the  National 
Museum,  which  contains  the  Centennial  exhibits  of  the 
United  States,  and  donations  of  foreign  Governments 
to  America.  Botanical  Gardens  consist  chiefly  of  a 
series  of  large  conservatories  filled  with  rare  and  curious 
plants,  flowers  and  fruits,  and  N.  of  it  stands  the 


—  272  — 

Bartholdi  Fountain,  so  much  admired  at  the  Centennial 
Exhibition. 

The  U.  S.  Naval  Observatory  occupies  a  command 
ing  site  on  the  bank  of  the  Potomac.  It  was  founded 
in  1842,  and  is  now  one  of  the  foremost  institutions  in 
the  world.  It  possesses  many  fine  instruments;  inclu 
ding  a  26-inch  equatorial  telescope  and  a  good  library 
of  astronomical  works.  The  Army  Medical  Museum 
contains  16,000  specimens,  illustrating  every  species 
of  wound  and  disease. 

The  Navy- Yard,  containing  the  Naval  Museum,  the 
Experimental  Battery  and  the  fleet,  has  an  area  of  27 
acres. 

There  are  a  number  of  very  fine  churches  in 
Washington. 

The  Corcoran- Art  Gallery,  founded  by  the  banker 
W.  W.  Corcoran,  contains  numerous  paintings,  most  of 
them  masterpieces,  and  the  finest  collection  of  casts  in 
America ;  marble  statuary  j  the  richest  bronzes  in  the 
U.  S. ;  porcelain;  and  specimens  of  majolica- ware, 
bric-a-brac,  etc. 

The  Washington  Monument,  considered  to  be  the 
loftiest  in  the  world,  was  dedicated  on  Washington's 
Birthday,  1885,  and  the  Statues  of  Washington, 
General  Scott,  Lincoln,  General  Eawlins,  General 
Thomas,  General  McPherson,  and  the  Naval  Monument 
are  of  large  proportions  and  beauty.  A  second  statue 
of  Lincoln  was  erected  by  contributions  of  colored  peo 
ple. 

The  Soldiers   Home    consists    of  several  spacious 


—  273  — 

marble  buildings  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  park  of  500 
acres.  President  Lincoln  passed  some  of  the  last  hours 
of  his  eventful  term  in  the  Home,  and  near  by  is  the 
National  Cemetery. 

The  Government  Asylum  for  the  Insane  is  an  ex 
tensive  and  noble  building.  Howard  University, 
founded  in  1864,  for  the  education  of  youth  "without 
regard  to  sex  or  color,"  is  a  vast  structure. 

Georgetown,  now  called  West  Washington,  is  con 
nected  by  4  bridges  with  Washington  and  is  beauti 
fully  situated  011  a  range  of  hills  which  command  a  view 
unsurpassed  in  the  Potomac  Valley.  Georgetown  Col 
lege,  the  most  famous  institution  of  learning  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  Church  in  the  United  States,  is  under 
the  control  of  the  Jesuits,  and  contains  a  library  of 
30,000  volumes,  some  beautifully  illuminated  missals, 
some  rare  old  manuscripts,  an  astronomical  observa 
tory,  and  a  museum  of  natural  history. 

The  Aqueduct,  by  which  the  waters  of  the  Chesa 
peake  and  Ohio  Canal  are  carried  across  the  Potomac, 
is  worth  inspecting.  15  miles  below  Washington  is 
Mount  Vernon  on  the  Virginia  side  of  the  Potomac, 
then  known  as  the  "Hunting  Creek  estate/'  was  be 
queathed  by  Augustine  Washington,  who  died  in  1743, 
to  Lawrence  Washington.  The  latter  named  it  after 
Admiral  Vernon,  under  whom  he  had  served  in  the 
Spanish  wars.  George  Washington  inherited  the  es 
tate  in  1752.  The  central  part  of  the  mansion,  which 
is  of  wood,  was  built  by  Lawrence,  and  the  wings  by 

George    Washington.     It    contains    many   interesting 

18 


—  274  — 

historical  relics,  among  which  are  the  key  of  the  Bas- 
tile,  presented  by  Lafayette,  portions  of  the  military 
and  personal  furniture  of  Washington,  portraits,  etc. 
The  Tomb  o;f  Washington  stands  in  a  retired  situation 
near  the  mansion.  It  is  a  plain  but  solid  brick  struc 
ture,  with  an  iron  gate,  through  the  bars  of  which  may 
be  seen  the  marble  sarcophagi  containing  the  remains 
of  George  and  Martha  Washington.  The  Mount  Ver- 
iion  domain,  including  the  mansion  and  6  acres,  which 
had  remained  since  the  death  of  Washington  in  the 
possession  of  his  descendants,  was  purchased  in  1856 
for  the  sum  of  $200,000,  raised  by  subscription,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  "Ladies'  Mount  Vernon  Associa 
tion"  aided  by  the  efforts  of  Edward  Everett.  It  is, 
therefore,  and  will  continue  to  be,  the  property  of  the 
nation. 

Leaving  the  beautiful  city  of  Washington  I  traveled 
to  Harper's  Ferry,  delightfully  situated  at  the  conflu 
ence  of  the  Potomac  and  Shenandoah  .Rivers.  The 
town  is  irregularly  built  around  the  base  of  a  hill. 
The  scenery  around  Harper's  Ferry  is  wonderfully 
picturesque.  The  Maryland  Heights,  across  the 
Potomac,  and  Bolivar  Heights,  above  the  town,  are 
worth  to  be  climbed.  The  chief  interest  pertaining  to 
Harper's  Ferry,  now  a  village  of  about  800  inhabi 
tants,  is  historical. 

It  was  the  scene  of  the  exploits  which  in  October 
1859,  rendered  the  name  of  John  Brown,  of  Ossawat- 
tomie,  Kansas,  notorious  ;  and  Charlestown,  the  county- 
seat  where  Brown  and  his  followers  were  tried  and 


—  275  — 

executed,  is  only  7  miles  distant  on  the  road  to  Win 
chester.  During  the  civil  war  Harper's  Ferry  was 
alternately  in  the  hands  of  the  Federals  and  Confederates. 

During  my  stay  in  Washington  I  had  the  honor  to 
be  introduced  to  President  Cleveland,  by  the  well-known 
Mr.  Simon  Wolf,  and  to  the  President  of  the  United 
States  Senate,  Mr.  Sherman.  The  latter  had  the  kind 
ness  to  detach  his  Secretary,  Mr.  Babcock,  to  act  as  my 
companion  and  guide. 

In  all  the  Governmental  Departments  I  was  cordi 
ally  received,  and  of  some  of  the  professional  Scientists 
of  the  different  scientific  institutes  in  the  city,  /.  i. 
Professor  Baird,  the  famous  Ichthyologist,  the  well-known 
Archaeologist,  Professor  Rau,  the  successful  Ethnologist, 
Professor  Otis,  and  above  all,  my  worthy  friend,  the 
indefatigable  Ethno-Geologist,  Major  Powell,  as  well  as 
of  the  Secretary  for  foreign  exchange  at  the  Smithson 
ian  Institute,  Mr.  Boehme,  I  received  valuable  in 
formations  and  favors  which  will  never  be  forgotten  by 
me  and  for  which  I  herewith  thank  them  heartily. 

The  District  of  Columbia  in  which  Washington  is 
situated,  comprises  an  area  of  75  square  miles,  and 
lies  on  the  Potomac.  Georgetown,  too,  is  in  it. 

By  approbation  of  an  act  of  Congress  on  February 
21,  1871,  a  Territorial  Government  was  instituted,  but 
in  1874,  the  territorial  system  was  abandoned  and  all 
public  affairs  entrusted  to  3  Commissioners. 

In  1860,  the  population  numbered  75, 080 ;  the 
Slaves,  3,185.  In  1880  there  were  177,624  inhabi 
tants  in  the  District,  among  these,  59;402  negroes. 


—  276  — 

After  my  return  to  Philadelphia,  I  visited  Camden, 
a  flourishing  city  of  25,000  inhabitants,  on  the  Dele- 
ware  opposite  Philadelphia,  with  which  it  is  connected 
by  ferries. 

There  are  extensive  ship-yards  and  manufactures  of 
iron,  glass  and  chemicals. 

Cape  May,^the  Long  Branch  of  Philadelphia,  is  the 
extreme  southern  point  of  New  Jersey,  fronting 
the  Atlantic  at  the  entrance  of  Delaware  Bay.  Cape 
May  is  a  favorite  resort  of  Southern  and  Western 
people  and  there  are  some  nice  places  of  amusements  in 
the  vicinity. 

Like  Cape  May,  Atlantic  City  is  a  favorite  resort  of 
Philadelphians,  and  during  the  season  a  great  many 
people  visit  the  place.  A  short  distance  N.  of  Atlantic 
City,  is  the  beautiful  but  ill-omened  Brigantine  Beach, 
called  by  the  sailors  "the  Graveyard,"  on  account  of 
the  number  of  fatal  wrecks  that  have  occurred  there. 
Continuing  my  travels  through  the  State  New  Jersey, 
Long  Branch  was  begun  with.  This  is  a  great  summer 
resort  in  the  vicinity  of  New  York,  situated  on  the 
Jersey  shore  of  the  Atlantic,  where  a  long  beach  affords 
admirable  facilities  for  bathing.  The  Monmouth  Park 
Race-Course  and  the  Iron  Pier  are  worth  attention. 

Jersey  City  is  situated  on  the  Hudson  river,  op 
posite  New  York,  of  which  it  is  practically  a  portion. 
It  is  a  place  of  much  commercial  and  industrial  activity, 
and  had  in  1880  a  population  of  120,728.  It  contains 
the  depots  of  several  of  the  most  important  railways 
leading  South  and  West  from  New  York,  and  the  docks 


of  leading  transatlantic  steamers,  but  nothing  else  of 
special  interest,  except  a  few  nice  churches  and  several 
good  educational  institutions. 

Newark,  on  the  route  to  the  capital  of  the  State  of 
New  Jersey,  is  a  large  manufacturing  city  with  136,400 
inhabitants. 

The  city  is  built  on  an  elevated  plain  upon  the 
right  bank  of  the  Passaic  river,  4  miles  from  Newark 
Bay,  and  is  regularly  laid  out. 

Of  the  literary  institutions,  the  most  noteworthy  are 
the  State  Historical  Society,  the  Library  Association, 
containing  20,000  volumes,  and  the  Newark  Academy. 
Newark  is  distinguished  for  its  manufactures  of  jewelry, 
carriages,  paper,  leath(*r,  and  hats,  and  some  of  the 
public  buildings  are  very  fine.  Newark  Lager-bier 
has  great  fame  iri  the  U.  S. 

6  miles  beyond  Newark  is  Elizabeth,  the  nicest  city  in 
New  Jersey,  with  28,229  inhabitants,  and  many  fine 
residences;  but  little  industry. 

New  Brunswick,  on  Raritan  river,  has  18,000  in 
habitants  and  immense  manufactures  of  India-rubber, 
harness  and  hosiery.  Rutger's  College  in  the  city,  is 
an  old  richly-endowed  and  flourishing  establishment, 
and  16  miles  distant  from  here  is  Princeton- Junction, 
and  2 £  miles  from  the  latter  Princeton  College,  one  of 
the  most  famous  institutions  of  learning  in  America. 

A  detour  to  Patterson,  a  busy  manufacturing  city 
of  50,887  inhabitants  was  well  worth  undertaking. 
Patterson  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Passaic 
river,  immediately  below  the  falls.  It  was  founded  in 


—  278  — 

1791  by  Alexander  Hamilton,  in  the  cotton  interest, 
and  its  cotton  factories  are  now  very  extensive.  Its 
most  important  interest,  however,  is  silk  manufactur 
ing,  for  which  it  has  30  factories,  employing  about 
8,000  persons,  and  turning  out  a  product  of  $4,000,- 
000.  It  has  also  extensive  manufacturing  interests  in 
velvet,  woolen,  linen,  locomotives,  and  heavy  machin 
ery. 

Next  to  Newark  it  is  the  largest  manufacturing 
city  of  New  Jersey.  The  Passaic  Falls  have  a  per 
pendicular  descent  of  50  ft.,  and  the  scenery  in  the 
vicinity  is  very  picturesque.  Ramapo,  17  miles  dis 
tant,  has  the  Torn  Mountain  in  its  neighborhood,  from 
the  summit  of  which  there  is  a  wide-extended  view. 
During  the  campaign  of  1777,  Washington  often  as 
cended  this  mountain  to  watch  the  movements  of  the 
British  army  and  fleet  around  New  York. 

Trenton,  the  capital  of  New  Jersey,  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  Delaware.  Its  manufacturing  interests 
are  important,  and  among  these,  the  Potteries  are  chief. 
The  population  in  1880,  was  29,910,  and  the  city  is 
remarkably  well  built,  and  clean. 

The  leading  event  in  the  past  history  of  Trenton 
is  the  famous  victory  over  the  Hessians  won  by  Wash 
ington,  December  26,  1776'  and  its  chief  present  at 
tractions  are  the  public  buildings.  It  contains  the 
State  House,  State  Penitentiary,  State  Arsenal  and  the 
State  Lunatic  Asylum. 

The  State  of  New  Jersey,  "Jersey  Blue,"  was 
named  in  honor  of  a  grantee,  Sir  George  Carteret,  at 


—  279  — 

one  time  Governor  of  the  Island  of  Jersey.  It  is  one  of  the 
13  original  States.  Settled  by  Dutch,  at  Bergen,  1620. 

Area,  7,815  square  miles  5  extreme  length,  157 
miles  5  breadth,  37  to  70' miles  5  frontage  on  Atlantic 
and  Delaware  Bay,  about  120  miles  each. 

Temperature  at  Atlantic  City  :  winter,  32°  to  42°; 
summer,  66°  to  73°.  Rainfall  at  Newark,  45  inches. 

Newark,  Perth  Amboy,  Great  Egg  Harbor,  Tuck- 
erton,  Bridgeton  and  Lumberton  are  ports  of  entry. 
Extensive  zinc  works  at  Newark  and  Jersey  City. 
Hobokenhas  a  population  of  37,721,  and  is  practically 
a  part  of  New  York ;  many  business  men  residing  there, 
and  except  the  large  docks  of  European  Steamship 
companies  has  little  to  offer. 

Hay  is  the  most  valuable  crop.  Cranberry  grow 
ing  a  specialty,  Burlington,  Ocean  and  Atlantic  coun 
ties  being  especially  adopted  to  this  industry.  Cen 
tral  region,  a  vast  market  garden.  Latest  reports  give 
108  factories  for  silk  and  silk  goods,  and  number  of 
hands  employed  in  them  12,549 ;  2,234  hands  employed 
in  jewelry  factories  5  number  of  flour  and  grist  mills,  481 5 
brick  and  tile  factories,  107.  Banks  first  in  fertilizing 
marl,  zinc  and  silk  goods. 

Population,  1,131,116,  incl.  38,853  Negroes,  172 
Chinese,  and  74  Indians. 

Number  of  colleges,  4;  number  enrolled  in  public 
schools,  209,526;  school  age,  5-18. 

The  next  exploration  tour  was  intended  for  Ne 
braska  and  other  Western  States  and  Territories,  and 
starting  from  Chicago,  by  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island 


—  280  — 

and  Pacific  R.  R.,  I  passed  many  already  described 
places,  and  visited  first,  the  important  stone  quarries 
around  Lockport,  near  Joliet,  Illinois.  Joliet  is  situ 
ated  on  both  banks  of  the  Des  Plain es  river  and  on  the 
Illinois  and  Michigan  canal  of  which  it  receives  its 
water-power.  The  city  is  beautifully  built,  and  here 
is  located  one  of  the  finest  prisons  in  America,  the 
State  Penitentiary. 

The  vicinity  is  very  productive  and  the  city  is  the 
chief  point  of  shipping.  Besides  flour-mills,  there  are 
also  manufactories  of  agricultural  implements,  and 
Joliet  contains  16,145  inhabitants. 

23  miles  beyond  Joliet  is  the  flourishing  town  of 
Ottawa,  on  Illinois  river,  close  below  the  entrance  of 
Fox  river,  which  has  here  a  fall  of  29  ft.,  affording  an 
immense  water  power  which  is  extensively  used  in 
manufactures.  The  population  is  8,000.  There  are 
several  grain-elevators,  and  large  quantities  of  wheat 
are  shipped  from  this  point. 

La  Salle,  36  miles  distant,  with  8,000  inhabitants, 
on  the  Illinois  river,  is  a  busy  manufacturing  city. 
Here  terminates  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal,  100 
miles  long,  which  connects  it  with  Chicago.  It  is  the 
center  of  extensive  mines  of  bituminous  coal,  of  which 
large  quantities  are  shipped. 

Moline,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  with 
9,000  inhabitants,  and  various  factories,  which  obtain 
an  immense  water-power  by  means  of  a  dam,  is  pic 
turesquely  situated  and  the  surrounding  country  is 
rich  in  coal. 


—  281  — 

Below  Moline  is  the  flourishing  city  of  Rock  Island, 
on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  with  a  population  of 
about  16,000. 

The  river  is  here  divided  by  the  island  of  Rock  Is 
land,  which  is  3  miles  long;  and  from  16  miles  above  Mo- 
line  to  3  miles  below  are  the  Upper  Rapids.  The  city 
of  Rock  Island  is  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  and  at  the 
confluence  of  Rock  River  with  the  Mississippi. 

It  is  an  important  railroad  center,  is  the  shipping 
point  for  the  productive  country  adjacent,  and  has 
many  varied  manufactures. 

The  Augustana  College  and  Theological  Institute 
are  located  here.  The  island  of  Rock  Island  (960 
acres)  is  Government  property  and  the  site  of  the 
Great  Arsenal  and  Armory,  intended  to  be  the  central 
United  States  Armory. 

Opposite  Rock  Island,  on  the  Iowa  side  of  the 
river,  is  the  city  of  Davenport  and  the  train  crosses 
the  river  between  them  on  the  magnificent  railroad  and 
wagon  bridge,  built  by  the  Government.  Davenport 
is  the  second  city  of  Iowa  in  size,  has  22,000  inhabi 
tants,  and  is  the  great  grain  depot  of  the  Upper  Missis 
sippi.  It  is  also  an  important  manufacturing  center,  and  is 
situated  in  the  heart  of  extensive  bituminous  coal-fields. 
The  city  is  nicely  laid  out,  and  handsomely  built. 
Griswold  College,  the  Academy  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception,  and  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences  are 
located  here,  and  there  are  some  fine  churches  and 
several  nice  buildings. 

Continuing  my  travels  in  Iowa,  I  next  visited  Iowa 


—  282  — 

City,  formerly  the  State  Capital,  and  now  the  seat  of 
the  State  University.  The  State  Historical  Society 
has  a  library  of  about  4,000  volumes,  and  there  are 
some  factories  for  which  the  Iowa  River  furnishes  the 
water  power.  The  population  is  about  8,000.  Iowa 
College,  removed  from  Davenport,  is  now  in  Grinnell, 
75  miles  from  Iowa  City. 

Des  Moines,  the  present  capital  of  Iowa,  is  situated 
on  the  Des  Moines  river,  at  its  confluence  with  the 
Raccoon.  The  city  is  intersected  by  both  rivers,  which 
are  spanned  by  8  bridges,  and  has  35,000  inhabitants. 
The  new  Capitol  is  a  splendid  building,  and  cost 
$3,000,000.  The  Post  Office  contains  also  the  U.  S. 
Courts,  etc.,  and  the  two  medical  colleges,  the  Drake 
University,  and  the  Calinan  College  are  famous  schools 
of  learning.  The  State  Library  contains  15,000 
volumes,  and  there  is  also  a  Public  Library  and  15 
churches,  and  a  Baptist  college  in  the  city.  Twelve 
railroads  pass  through  the  city,  making  it  a  railroad 
center. 

Beyond  Des  Moines  the  road  passes  through  the 
flourishing  cities  of  Avoca  and  Atlantic,  descends  the 
bluffs  into  the  Missouri  Bottom  and  soon  reaches 
Council  Bluffs,  with  a  population  of  22,000.  It  is  the 
converging-point  of  all  the  railroads  from  the  East 
which  connect  with  the  Union  Pacific,  and  communi 
cates  by  steam-railroad  with  Omaha,  on  the  opposite 
river  bank.  The  great  Missouri  River  Bridge  which  con 
nects  the  two  cities,  is  2,750  ft,  long.  Council  Bluffs 
is  well  laid  out,  and  near  here  is  the  State  Institute  for 


—  283  — 

the  Deaf  and  Dumb.  The  views  from  the  bluffs  above 
the  city  are  very  fine. 

By  a  decision  of  th  3  U.  S.  Supreme  Court,  Council 
Bluffs  is  the  E.  terminus  of  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R. 

The  "  Hawk  eye  State/'  Iowa,  whose  name  is  of  Indian 
origin,  and  means  "The  Beautiful  Land/7  is  part  of  the 
Louisiana  purchase,  merged  into  Missouri  Territory, 
1812;  into  Michigan,  1834;  into  Wisconsin,  1836. 
First  white  settlement  at  Dubuque,  1788.  Admitted 
as  a  State,  1846. 

Area,  56,025  square  miles;  extent,  north  and  south, 
208  miles;  east  and  west,  about  300  miles.  Principal 
rivers  within  the  State:  Des  Moines,  Iowa  and  Little 
Sioux. 

Temperature  at  Davenport;  winter,  21°  to  37°; 
summer,  70°  to  76°.  Rainfall  at  Muscatine,  43 
inches. 

Burlington,  Keokuk  and  Dubuque  are  U.  S.  ports  of 
delivery. 

Number  of  farms,  185,351;  average  value  per  acre, 
cleared  land,  $39.36  ;  woodland,  $27.36.  Dairy  interest 
growing  in  importance,  creamery  and  factory  products 
bringing  high  prices.  Manufacturing  establishments 
are  numerous,  including  canning  factories,  stove  and 
other  foundries,  engine-building,  paper  and  woolen 
mills,  lumber  and  saw-mills,  etc.  Ranks  first  in  hogs; 
second  in  milk  cows,  oxen  and  other  cattle,  corn,  hay 
and  oats. 

Population,  1,753,980,  incl.  9,310  colored,  33 
Chinese  and  466  Indians. 


—  284  — 

Number  of  Colleges,  19;  school  population,  604,739; 
school  age,  5-21. 

Opposite  Council  Bluffs,  as  already  stated,  lies  the 
city  of  Omaha,  the  largest  city  of  Nebraska  and  of  the 
Missouri  Valley.  It  occupies  a  beautiful  plateau,  rising 
gradually  into  bluffs  and  toward  the  end  of  1884  had 
60,000  inhabitants.  On  the  bluffs  stand  the  handsome 
residences  of  the  wealthier  citizens.  The  U.  S.  Post- 
Office  and  Court  House,  the  High-School  Building,  the 
Union  Pacific  Headquarters  Building,  the  Union  Pacific 
R.  R.  Depot,  the  Douglas  County  Court  House  andBoyd's 
Opera  House  are  magnificent  structures  and  several  of 
the  churches  are  costly  and  elegant  edifices.  Its  pros 
perity  is  due  chiefly  to  its  having  been  for  a  long  period 
the  real  E.  terminus  of  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R. 

It  has  an  immense  trade  and  many  important  manu 
factories,  the  principal  of  which  latter  arc  the  Omaha 
Smelting- Works,  considered  to  be  the  largest  in  America, 
several  large  breweries  and  distilleries,  extensive  lin 
seed-oil  works,  steam-engine  works,  brick  yards,  stock 
yards  and  pork-packing  establishments,  and  the  ex 
tensive  machine-shops,  car-works  and  foundry  of  the 
Union  Pacific  R.  R.  The  system  of  water-works  in  the 
city  is  unsurpassed.  Fort  Omaha  is  4  miles  from 
Omaha  city  and  has  a  large  post,  but  the  headquarters 
of  the  Department  of  the  Platte  are  in  the  city. 

The  Burlington  and  Missouri  River  R.  R.  extends 
to  Denver,  Colorado,  whence  I  intended  to  go  after 
visiting  the  capital  of  Nebraska,  Lincoln,  and  procur 
ing  passage  on  that  line,  I  started  for  Lincoln. 


—  285  — 

This  is  a  city  of  20,000  population,  and  is  the  seat 
of  the  State  University  and  several  other  educational 
and  charitable  institutions.  It  is  romantically  situated 
arid  has  a  lively  commerce. 

My  explorations  in  the  State  of  Nebraska  were  not 
of  an  extensive  character  and  I  was  compelled  to  get 
furnished  with  the  details  of  this  country  from  the  most 
reliable  sources,  and  reproduce  the  same  as  given  to 
me. 

The  State  of  Nebraska,  whose  name  is  taken  from 
the  Indian,  signifying  "  Shallow  water "  and  applied 
first  to  the  river,  was  organized  as  a  Territory  in  1854; 
admitted  1867. 

Area  76,855  square  miles ;  width,  north  and  south, 
about  210  miles;  greatest  length  in  center,  about  420 
miles.  Platte  the  principal  river,  extending  through 
the  State  east  and  west. 

Temperature  at  Omaha  ;  winter,  20°  to  34°;  sum 
mer,  72°  to  78°.  Rainfall  at  Fort  Kearney,  25  inches. 

Population  of  Plattsmouth,  5,796;  of  Nebraska 
City,  5,597.  Rye,  buckwheat,  barley,  flax  and  hemp 
yield  abundant  crops.  Apples,  pears,  plums,  grapes, 
and  berries  are  plentiful.  Herd  law  excellent,  and 
grazing  land  good.  Cattle  raising  the  great  industry 
of  the  State,  next  to  agriculture.  Manufacturing  es 
tablishments  show  a  wonderful  increase  of  from  670  in 
1870  to  1,403  in  1880.  Homesteads  obtained  under 
timber  claims,  or  by  pre-emptions ;  cash  expense  of 
first,  $18  to  $26  ;  of  second,  $14. 

Population,  452,402,  incl.  2,385   Colored,  18  Chi- 


—  286  — 

nese  and  235  Indians.  U.  S.  Army  excluded  from 
voting. 

Number  of  colleges,  9  j  school  population,  135,- 
511 ;  school  age,  5-21. 

On  the  route  from  Omaha  to  Denver  by  the  Union 
Pacific  R.  R.,  numerous  small  cities,  etc.,  are  passed, 
offering  nothing  noteworthy,  though  the  distance  is 
565  miles. 

The  peculiar  position  of  the  Pacific  Rail  Roads  in 
duce  me  to  describe  their  history  in  a  brief  extract. 

As  early  as  1846,  the  project  of  a  railway  across  the 
continent  was  advocated  by  Asa  Whitney,  and  in  1853 
Congress  passed  an  act  providing  for  surveys  by  the 
corps  of  topographical  engineers.  In  1862  and  1864 
further  acts  were  passed  providing  for  a  subsidy  in  U. 
S.  6  per  cent,  gold  bonds  at  specified  rates  per  mile. 
By  these  acts,  the  companies  undertaking  the  work, 
received  12,800  acres  of  land  for  each  mile  of  railroad 
built,  or  25,000,000  acres  in  all.  The  Union  Pacific 
Company  built  the  railroad  from  Omaha  to  Ogden,  a 
distance  of  1,033  miles,  and  the  Central  Pacific  Com 
pany  that  from  San  Francisco  to  Ogden,  883  miles. 
Work  began  in  1863  j  the  first  40  miles  from  Omaha 
to  Fremont  were  completed  in  1865,  and  on  the  12th 
of  May,  1869,  the  railroad  communication  from  the  At 
lantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  was  opened.  Nine  Moun 
tain  ranges  this  route  crosses,  the  highest  of  which 
are  the  Black  Hills,  at  an  elevation  of  8,242  ft.  above 
the  sea,  and  the  lowest  Promontory  Mountains,  W.  of 
Great  Salt  Lake,  4,889  ft.  The  aggregate  length  of 


—  287  — 

the  tunnels,  of  which  there  are  15,  all  situated  in  the 
Sierra  Nevada  or  its  spurs,  is  6,000  ft.  The  gradients 
do  not  often  exceed  80  ft.  to  the  mile. 

The  cost  of  the  Union  Pacific  Eoad  was  reported  to 
the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  at  $112,259,360  ;  but  the 
liabilities  of  the  company  at  the  date  of  the  completion 
of  the  road  were  $116,730,052.  In  1868  Jesse  L. 
Williams,  a  civil  engineer  and  one  of  the  Government 
directors,  reported  the  approximate  cost  of  the  Union 
Pacific  Road  in  cash  at  $38,824,821.  The  cost  of  the 
Central  Pacific  Road  and  branches  (1,222  miles)  in  lia 
bilities  of  every  sort  was  reported  in  1874  at  $139,- 
746,311. 

During  my  repeated  stays  in  the  city  of  Denver  I 
had  formed  many  valuable  acquaintances,  and  enjoyed 
the  hospitality  of  Ex-Governor  Eaton?  Lieutenant- 
Governor  Breen,  Doctor  Eisner  and  Mr.  Rose.  Doc 
tor  Eisner,  a  celebrated  Physician  in  Denver,  and  his 
amiable  family  were  indefatigable  in  their  efforts  to 
make  my  sojourn  as  pleasant  and  agreeable  as  possible. 
Doctor  Eisner's  mineralogic-geological  collection  is  the 
second  largest  in  the  United  States,  and  as  a  specific 
American  (from  the  Rocky  Mountains),  the  first  in  the 
world. 

Of  Mr.  Addy,  General  Passenger  Agent  of  the 
Union  Pacific  R.  R.  Company  5  Major  K.  Hooper  of 
the  Rio  Grande  R.  R.  Company — the  latter  well-known 
in  the  country  as  the  author  of  descriptions  of  travels 
and  other  journalistics — ;  of  the  Administration  of  the 
Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  Company,  and 


—  288  — 

Commissioner  Rich,  I  received  many  favors  and  im 
portant  informations,  and  to  all  of  them  I  am  under 
deep  obligations  j  thanking  them  with  all  my  heart. 

By  the  Denver  and  Silverton  Division  of  the  Den 
ver  and  Eio  Grande  R.  R.,  I  crossed  the  Sangre  di 
Christo  range  by  the  wonderful  La  Veta  Pass,  at  an 
altitude  of  9,486  ft.  amid  scenery  of  a  remarkable 
beauty  and  grandeur.  The  view  of  Sierra  Blanca 
14,464  ft.  high,  flanked  by  the  serrated  peaks  of  the 
Sangre  di  Christo  range,  as  seen  from  Alamosa,  is  no 
where  surpassed.  W.  of  Antonita,  29  miles  dis 
tant,  are  the  Los  Pinos  Canon  and  the  Toltec  Gorge, 
the  most  wonderful  scenic  attractions  of  Colorado.  For 
a  distance  of  8  miles  the  railway  runs  just  below  the 
brow  of  a  precipitous  mountain-range  at  the  terror-in 
spiring  height  of  1,200  ft.  above  the  stream,  following 
the  irregular  contour  of  the  mountains,  through  deep 
cuts  and  over  high  hills,  (Phantom  Curve),  till  it  comes 
to  the  end  of  a  mountain-wall  that  juts  into  the  canon, 
narrowing  it  to  a  mere  gorge,  1,400  ft.  in  depth.  Not 
far  from  the  gorge,  the  railway  suddenly  enters  a  tun 
nel  in  the  solid  granite  cliff,  and  600  ft.  further  on 
emerges  upon  a  trestle-bridge  and  reaches  Durango, 
which  is  the  supply  depot  for  the  famous  San  Juan 
mining  district,  and  the  road  continues  to  Silverton, 
495  miles  from  Denver.  At  a  distance  of  30  miles 
from  Durango  are  the  prehistoric  cliff  dwellings  on 
the  Rio  Mancos,  among  the  most  wonderful  in  America. 
At  Antonita  the  New  Mexico  Division  of  the  R.  Re 
branches  off  to  the  S.  and  runs  in  91  miles  to  Espanola, 


—  289  — 

near  which  place  are  8  ancient  pueblos,  inhabited  by 
Pueblo  Indians  whom  the  Spaniards  found  there  only 
48  years  after  the  discovery  of  America,  and  in  the 
neighboring  cliffs  are  numerous  cave-dwellings  prehis 
toric  in  their  origin. 

Boulder  was  next  visited.  This  is  a  mining  town 
and  contains  the  State  University,  and  in  its  proximity, 
the  famous  Boulder  Canon,  a  stupendous  mountain- 
gorge,  17  miles  long,  with  walls  of  solid  rock  that  rise 
precipitously  to  a  height  of  3,000  ft.  in  many  places. 

About  8  miles  from  Boulder  are  the  Falls  of  Boul 
der  Creek  and  at  Longmont,  13  miles  beyond  Boulder, 
is  the  starting  point  for  an  excursion  through  the  pic 
turesque  Estes  Park,  to  the  summit  of  Longs  Peak, 
14,088  ft.  high,  affording  one  of  the  grandest  views  to 
be  obtained  in  Colorado.  Beyond  Longmont  the  rail 
way  gradually  nears  the  mountains,  crosses  the  beau 
tiful  and  productive  Cache  la  Poudre  Valley  at  Fort 
Collins,  and  for  the  last  50  miles  runs  at  the  base  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains. 

In  that  region  Tellurium  mines  are  to  be  found, 
this  rare  metal  appearing  in  different  admixtures,  and 
according  to  assurances  made  to  me  by  the  well-known 
Geologist  Professor  Smith,  yield  exceedingly  well.  To 
this  Scientist  also  I  am  indebted  for  his  kindness, 
which  induced  me  to  prolong  my  stay  in  that  region. 

Fort  Collins  is  a  military  post  and  contains  the  Ag 
ricultural  Institute  and  several  handsome  buildings. 

Concluding  thus  my  travels   through  the  State  of 

Colorado,  I  proceeded  to  Wyoming  Territory. 

19 


—  290  — 

The  "  Centennial  State/'  Colorado,  is  part  of  Louis 
iana  purchase  of  1803.  First  explored  by  Vasquez 
Coronado  under  the  Spanish,  1540. 

First  expedition  sent  out  by  U.  S.  Government, 
under  Major  Pike,  1806,  a  second  under  command  of 
Col.  S.  H.  Long,  1820,  and  in  1842-44,  Gen.  John  C. 
Fremont  made  his  celebrated  trip  across  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  First  settlements  made  by  miners,  1858- 
1859;  formed  from  parts  of  Kansas,  Nebraska,  Utah 
and  New  Mexico;  organized  as  a  Territory,  February, 
1861;  admitted,  August  1,  1876. 

Area,  103,925  square  miles;  length,  380  miles; 
breadth,  280  miles;  principal  rivers,  North  and  South 
Platte,  Arkansas,  Snake,  White  and  Green. 

Temperature  at  Denver:  winter,  25°  to  37° ;  sum 
mer,  72°  to  74°.  Rainfall  of  the  State,  from  15  to  20 
inches,  falling  mostly  between  May  and  July.  The 
School  of  Mines  is  at  Golden  City.  Colorado  is  the 
richest  State  in  the  Union  in  mineral  productions, 
ranking  first  in  silver,  and  fourth  in  gold.  Cattle  rais 
ing  a  safe  and  profitable  business ;  sheep  husbandry  still 
more  profitable. 

Population,  243,910,  incl.  3,262  colored,  861 
Chinese  and  202  Indians. 

Number  of  colleges,  3  ;  school  population,  40,208 ; 
school  age,  6-21. 

Though  I  had  formerely  been  in  the  Territory  of 
Wyoming,  but  only  en  route  to  the  far  West,  I  boarded 
a  train  of  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R.  for  Cheyenne,  the 
capital  of  Wyoming.  Cheyenne  has  a  population  of 


—  291  — 

6,000,  representing  chiefly  the  stock  and  mining 
interests.  The  city  is  substantially  built  and  contains 
a  fine  Court  House  and  Jail,  a  pretty  City  Hall  and  an 
extensive  round-house  and  shops. 

The  military  post  of  Fort  D.  A.  Russell  is  located 
here. 

A  few  miles  beyond  Cheyenne  the  ascent  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  begins,  and  at  a  distance  of  about  33 
miles  the  train  passes  Sherman,  one  of  the  highest  R. 
R.  stations  in  the  world,  8,235  ft.  high.  Here  com 
mences  the  descent  to  the  Laramie  Plains,  which  are 
about  40  miles  wide  on  the  average  and  100  miles  long, 
bounded  by  the  Black  Hills  and  the  Medicine  Bow 
Mountains.  Enormous  flocks  of  sheep  graze  on  the 
plains,  said  to  be  the  best  grazing  in  the  United  States. 
There  is  an  abundance  of  game,  such  as  antelopes, 
mountain-sheep  and  bears,  in  the  neighboring  hills. 

Laramie  City  is  56  miles  from  Cheyenne  and  is 
situated  on  Laramie  river,  in  the  midst  of  the  Laramie 
Plains.  Its  population  is  3,000,  but  is  rapidly  increas 
ing.  It  is  the  end  of  a  division  of  the  R.  R.,  and  has 
large  machine  and  repair  shops,  and  the  rolling-mills  of 
the  company.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and  con 
tains  several  handsome  buildings.  Within  30  miles  of 
Laramie  there  are  deposits  of  antimony,  cinnabar,  gold, 
silver,  lead,  plumbago,  and  several  other  minerals. 
Beyond  Laramie  the  road  traverses  the  Plains  for  many 
miles,  crosses  a  region  of  rugged  hills,  and  descends 
once  more  into  the  valley  of  the  North  Platte.  Near 
Miser,  44  miles  from  Laramie  City,  are  fine  views  of 


—  292  — 

Laramie  Peak  on  the  right  and  Elk  Mountain  on  the 
left.  The  North  Platte  is  reached  at  Fort  FredSteele, 
and  then  another  steep  ascent  is  begun.  Creston  is 
upon  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  continent,  from  which 
water  flows  each  way ;  E.  to  the  Atlantic  and  W.  to  the 
Pacific. 

At  Green  River  Station,  the  train  emerges  from  the 
desolate  plains  and  enters  a  mountain  region,  which 
affords  some  fine  views  and  in  a  distance  of  121  miles 
enters  Utah  Territory. 

Wyoming  Territory  was  organized  1869.  First 
settlements,  trading  posts  of  Forts  Laramie  and 
Bridges. 

Area,  97,890  square  miles;  length,  350  miles ; 
breadth,  275  miles.  Largest  rivers,  Green,  Snake,  Big 
Horn,  Powder,  Big  Cheyenne  and  North  Platte. 

Temperature  at  Cheyenne:  winter,  23°  to  33°; 
summer,  63°  to  69°.  Rainfall  at  Fort  Laramie,  15 
inches.  Union  Pacific  runs  through  extreme  south 
from  east  to  west,  and  connects  Cheyenne  with  Den 
ver. 

Wheat,  rye,  oats  and  barley  flourish,  but  frosts  too 
frequent  for  corn.  Big  Horn  Country,  in  northwest,  has 
an  area  of  15,000  square  miles;  fine  agricultural  coun 
try;  water  plentiful;  game  and  fur-bearing  animals 
numerous,  rendering  it  one  of  the  most  desirable  hunt 
ing  grounds  of  America.  Grazing  interest  important, 
and  increasing  rapidly,  more  than  half  the  area  being- 
rich  grazing  land.  Mountains  covered  with  forests' of 
coniferes,  which  will  prove  very  useful  for  lumber. 


—  293  — 

Mineral  resources  extensive ;  iron  ore  abundant ;  cop 
per,  lead,  plumbago  and  petroleum  found;  gold  in  the 
Sweetwater  country  and  near  Laramie  City;  valuable 
deposits  of  soda  in  the  valley  of  the  Sweetwater.  Coal 
abundant  and  of  good  quality  at  Evanston,  Carbon, 
Rock  Springs  and  other  points;  these  deposits  extensi 
vely  worked,  and  furnish  nearly  all  the  coal  used  by  the 
railroads  and  by  settlements  hundreds  of  miles  east  and 
west.  But  little  attention  has  as  yet  been  given  to 
mechanical  and  manufacturing  industries. 

Population,  incl.  298  Colored,  914  Chinese  and  140 
Indians-  20,789.  Good  school  system  started;  school 
population,  4,112;  school  age,  7-21. 

Returned  over  the  same  road  to  Denver,  and  stay 
ing  there  a  short  time,  I  left  that  lovely  city  and  its 
generous  and  warm-hearted  citizens,  starting  on  the 
trip  to  Kansas,  via  Kansas  Division  of  the  Union  Paci 
fic  R.  R.  The  first  noteworthy  station  is  Kit  Carson, 
named  after  the  great  "  Pathfinder/'  and  situated  on 
Sand  Creek,  about  20  miles  above  the  spot  where 
Colonel  Chivington's  Indian  massacre  took  place. 

Fort  Wallace,  an  important  military  post  on  the 
boundary-line  of  Kansas,  and  Fort  Hays,  situated  on  a 
commanding  elevation,  overlooking  the  plains,  one  of 
the  handsomest  military  posts  in  the  West  are  passed. 
Opposite  the  latter,  upon  Big  Creek,  is  Hays  City,  once 
the  center  of  the  Buffalo  range.  65  miles  beyond  is 
Ellsworth,  situated  on  the  Smoky  Hill  River,  in  a  fine 
stock-raising  country.  Numerous  thriving  villages  in 
a  highly  productive  agricultural  region  are  on  the  route 


—  294  — 

to  Manhattan,  a  busy  and  rapidly  growing  town,  con- 
taining  an  Agricultural  High  School. 

Topeka,  the  capital  of  Kansas,  is  situated  on  both 
sides  of  the  Kansas  River,  which  is  here  spanned  by  a 
fine  iron  bridge.  It  contains  one  of  the  finest  State 
Houses  in  the  West,  and  has  23,000  inhabitants.  The 
river  affords  excellent  water-power,  and  there  are 
several  important  educational  institutions.  In  the 
vicinity,  which  is  very  fertile,  are  deposits  of  coal. 

The  U.  S.  Government  Building  and  State  Lunatic 
Asylum  are  in  course  of  erection. 

At  a  distance  of  30  miles  from  Topeka,  situated  en 
both  sides  of  the  Kansas  River,  and  built  on  a  rolling 
slope,  is  the  beautiful  city  of  Lawrence,  with  10,000 
inhabitants.  The  trade  of  Lawrence  is  very  large,  and 
a  dam  across  the  river  furnishes  water-power  for 
numerous  mills.  The  State  University  is  located  here. 
The  terminus  of  the  above  mentioned  R.  R,  DivisioH 
is  Kansas  City,  in  the  State  of  Missouri. 

Kansas  City  is  the  second  city  of  Missouri  in  im 
portance,  contains  a  population  of  115,000,  and  is  sit 
uated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Missouri  river,  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Kansas  river,  and  near  the  Kansas  bor 
der.  Its  trade  is  immensely  increasing,  and  due  to  the 
12  important  railroads,  (which  converge  here),  and  the 
steamboat  traffic  on  the  river.  Its  manufacturing  in 
terests  are  of  no  importance  whatsoever.  The  first 
bridge  ever  constructed  across  the  Missouri,  is  in  Kan 
sas  City,  and  is  1,387  ft.  long.  The  Union  R.  R.  De 
pot  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  West. 


—  295  — 

There  are  some  handsome  public  and  private  build 
ings  in  the  city. 

From  Kansas  City  I  traveled  again  to  the  neigh 
boring  State  of  Kansas,  and  visited  Leavenworth. 
There  is  an  important  trade  in  agricultural  products  in 
that  city,  and  its  population  is  29,000.  Fort  Leaven- 
worth  and  the  Soldiers'  Home  are  of  great  interest  to 
the  traveler. 

Atchison,  a  lively  city  of  18,000  inhabitants,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Missouri 
river._  Nine  railroads  meet  here  and  about  90  trains 
arrive  and  depart  every  day,  making  it  a  railroad 
center.  The  industry  in  manufacturing  is  very  large 
and  incloses  flour-mills,  machine-shops,  breweries, 
engine-works,  furniture,  and  carriage-factories. 

It  has  several  nice  churches  and  a  fine  iron  bridge 
across  the  river. 

After  exploring  different  rural  regions  in  this  State 
I  proceeded  to  St.  Joseph,  Missouri. 

The  "  Garden  of  the  West,"  the  State  of  Kansas, 
takes  its  name  from  the  Indian,  signifying  "  Smoky 
Water."  Visited  first  by  Spaniards,  1541,  and  by 
French,  1719.  Part  of  Louisiana  purchase,  and  after 
ward  of  Indian  Territory.  Organized  as  a  Territory, 
1854,  admitted  as  a  State,  1861. 

Area,  82,080  square  miles  5  length,  400  miles ; 
breadth,  200  miles.  Geographical  center  of  the 
United  States,  exclusive  of  Alaska.  Missouri  River 
frontage,  150  miles;  largest  rivers,  Solomon,  Neosho, 
Saline,  Arkansas,  Republican  and  Kansas. 


—  296  — 

Temperature  at  Leavenworth :  summer,  74°  to 
79°;  winter,  25°  to  35°;  rainfall,  31  inches. 

Institution  for  the  Feeble-Minded  at  Osawatomie, 
and  for  the  education  of  the  Blind,  at  Wyandotte  ;  for 
Deaf-Mutes,  Olathe. 

Number  of  farms,  1860,  10,400;  1880,  138,561. 

Average  value  per  acre,  cleared  land,  $19.12; 
wooodland,  $11.82.  Peculiarly  adapted  for  stock  rais 
ing. 

Number  of  hands  employed  in  manufactories,  12,064. 

Population,  996,096,  incl.  43,107  Colored,  19  Chi 
nese  and  815  Indians. 

Number  of  colleges,  8  ;  number  of  school  houses, 
over  5,000;  school  attendance,  69  per  cent,  of  school 
population;  school  age,  5—21. 

St.  Joseph,  Missouri,  has  32,431  inhabitants,  several 
educational  institutions  and  an  important  trade.  The 
city  is  very  wealthy  and  some  of  the  public  and  pri 
vate  buildings  are  very  handsome.  The  river  is  the 
demarkation  line,  and  is  quite  shallow  here. 

I  also  visited  Jefferson  City,  the  capital  of  Mis 
souri,  which  is  beautifully  situated  on  high  bluffs,  over 
looking  the  Missouri  River  for  many  miles.  It  has 
6,000  inhabitants  and  is  nicely  built.  The  State 
House  is  an  extensive  building,  and  the  State  Library 
contains  12,000  volumes.  There  are  numerous  flour- 
mills  and  factories  in  Jefferson  City. 

The  "  Pennsylvania  of  the  West,"  the  State  of 
Missouri,  whose  name  is  taken  from  that  of  the  river 
Missouri,  signifying  in  Indian,  "  Mud  River,"  was  first 


—  297  — 

settled  at  St.  Genevieve  by  the  French,  1755;  organ 
ized  as  a  Territory,  1812;  admitted  1821. 

Area,  69,415  square  miles;  length,  north  and  south, 
275  miles;  average  breadth,  245  miles;  Mississippi 
River  frontage,  nearly  500  miles. 

Temperature  at  St.  Louis:  winter,  30°  to  43°; 
summer,  75°  to  80° ;  rainfall,  42  inches. 

Number  of  farms,  215,575;  average  value  per 
acre,  cleared  land,  $14.52;  woodland,  $8.25. 

Lead  is  found  in  southwest,  center  and  southeast, 
having  area  of  over  5,000  square  miles. 

Ranks  first  in  mules ;  third  in  oxen,  hogs;  corn  and 
copper. 

Population,  2,168,380,  incl.  145,350  Colored,  91 
Chinese  and  113  Indians. 

U.  S.  Army  excluded  from  voting. 

Number  of  Colleges,  17;  school  population,  741,- 
632  ;  school  age,  6-20. 

Per  St.  Louis  and  San  Francisco  R.  R.  and  its 
branches  I  continued  my  voyage,  intending  to  visit  a 
few  important  places  in  the  State  of  Arkansas  and 
afterward  to  explore  the  Indian  Territory. 

Passing  Eureka  Springs  and  Avoca  with  aothing 
noteworthy,  I  arrived  at  Little  Rock,  Arkansas.  The 
capital  of  Arkansas  and  chief  city  of  the  State  has  25,- 
000  inhabitants,  and  is.  built  upon  the  first  bed  of  rocks 
that  is  met  with  in  ascending  the  Arkansas  River.  The 
city  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  the  residences  are  sur 
rounded  by  gardens  adorned  with  shade-trees,  present 
ing  a  lovely  appearance. 


—  298  — 

Of  the  public  buildings  are  worth  to  be  mentioned, 
the  State  House,  New  Custom  House,  Northern  Medi 
cal  College,  the  Lunatic  Asylum,  the  Military  Institute 
of  St.  John's  College,  and  some  of  the  churches  are 
also  very  pretty.  The  U.  S.  Arsenal  and  Land  Office, 
the  State  Institutions  for  Deaf-Mutes  and  the  Blind, 
and  the  State  Penitentiary  are  located  here.  The 
State  Library  contains  12,500  volumes. 

From  Malvern,  42  miles  S.  of  Little  Rock,  the  Hot 
Springs  R.  R.  diverges  and  runs  in  25  miles  to  the 
famous  Hot  Springs. 

The  town  is  only  an  appendage  of  the  Sanitarium 
and  contains  3,000  inhabitants. 

The  66  springs  issue  from  the  W.  slope  of  Hot 
Springs  Mountain,  vary  in  temperature  from  93°  to 
160°  F.,  and  discharge  into  the  Creek  about  half  a 
million  of  gallons  a  day. 

The  waters  are  taken  both  internally  and,  in  the 
the  form  of  baths,  externally,  and  are  remedial  in 
rheumatism,  scrofula  and  diseases  of  the  skin. 

Not  extending  my  travels  in  this  State  any  farther, 
I  was  busy  in  collecting  statistic  data  about  Arkansas, 
and  having  been  successful  in  obtaining  them  from 
official  sources,  I  reproduce  the  same  as  follows. 

The  "Bear  State,"  State  of  Arkansas,  the  name  of 
which  is  of  Indian  origin,  signifying  u  Smoky  Water,'' 
with  prefix  from  French  meaning  "Bow,"  was  settled 
at  Arkansas  Post  by  French,  1685;  became  a  Terri 
tory,  1819;  admitted  as  a  State,  1836,  seceded  March 
4,  1861;  re-admitted  1868. 


•    —  299  — 

Area,  53,850  square  miles;  length,  north  and 
south,  240  miles;  breadth,  from  170  to  250  miles; 
Mississippi  Eiver  frontage,  about  400  miles. 

Temperature  at  Little  Rock:  winter,  42°  to  51° ; 
summer,  79°  to  82°.  Rainfall  at  Fort  Smith,  40 
inches  ;  and  at  Washington,  55  inches. 

Number  of  farms,  94,433.  Average  value  per 
acre,  cleared  land  $11.78;  woodland,  $3.48. 

Number  of  different  industries,  2,070;  for  tar  and 
turpentine,  26 ;  sawing  lumber,  354 ,  flour  and  grist, 
807. 

Coal  along  Arkansas  River ;  iron  ores  in  Ozark 
Mountains ;  salt  springs  near  Ouachita ;  oilstone  near 
Hot  Springs;  kaolin  in  Pulaski  County. 

Population,  802,525,  incl.  210,666  Colored,  133 
Chinese  and  195  Indians.  Slaves,  1860,  111,115. 

Number  of  colleges,  5;  school  population,  289,617; 
school  age,  6—21. 

Having  procured  the  necessary  permit,  etc.,  I 
started  first  per  Missouri  Pacific,  and  afterwards 
per  Missouri,  Kansas  and  Texas  Division  R.  R., 
and  passed  Fort  Scott,  established  as  a  military 
post  in  1842,  in  whose  vicinity  there  is  an  abundance 
of  bituminous  coal;  and  Parsons,  a  flourishing  city, 
built  on  a  high  rolling  prairie  between  and  near  the 
confluence  of  the  Big  and  Little  Labette  Rivers,  and 
then  reached  Vinita,  the  first  station  in  the  Indian 
Territory. 

The  railroad  traverses  the  country  for  201  miles  to 
Durant,  near  the  Texas  border. 


—  300  — 

Tlie  towns,  villages,  etc.,  along  the  road  are  inhabi 
ted  by  several  Indian  tribes,  and  their  reservations  are 
inaccessible  to  white  persons,  that  is,  white  people  are 
prohibited  from  settling  there.  I  mention  only  a  few  of 
them :  Caddo,  Caney,  Atoka,  Gap,  Frink,  Checotah, 
Oaklaha,  Muscogec,  Leliaetta  with  the  capital  of  the 
Cherokee  Indians,  Tahlequa,  the  most  important  town, 
and  near  by  Adair  and  Catala,  either  close  to  the  road 
or  sideways  from  it. 

The  Indian  Territory,  portion  of  great  Louisiana 
purchase  was  set  apart  for  home  of  peaceable  Indian 
tribes  ;  organized  1834.  Cut  down  to  form  States  and 
Territories,  leaving  but  64,690  square  miles,  or  41,- 
401,600  acres  5  nearly  26,000,000  acres  being  Indian 
reservations. 

Length  east  and  west  on  the  north,  470  miles, 
breadth  west  of  100th  meridian,  35  miles,  and  east  of 
that  line,  about  210  miles. 

Eeservations  of  Cherokees,  5,000,000  acres  in  north 
and  northeast ;  Seminoles,  2,000,000  in  east  central , 
Creeks,  3,215,495  in  east;  Chickasaws,  4,377,600  in 
south;  the  Oklahoma  country  near  centre.  Principal 
rivers,  Arkansas  and  Red.  Number  of  nations,  agen 
cies  and  reservations,  22. 

Temperature  at  Fort  Gibson:  winter,  35°  to  48°; 
summer,  77°  to  82°.  Rainfall  in  extreme  northwest, 
20  inches,  and  at  Fort  Gibson,  36  inches.  Railroad 
mileage,  372. 

Capital  of  Chickasaws,  Tishomingo ;  of  Chocktaws, 
Tushkahoma;  of  Creeks,  Muscogee  j  of  Osages,  Paw- 


—  301  — 

huska;  of  Seminoles,  Seminole  Agency;  of  Pawnees, 
Pawnee  Agency;  of  Kiowas  and  Comanches,  Kiowa 
and  Commanche  Agency. 

Corn,  wheat,  tobacco,  cotton  and  potatoes  yield 
luxuriantly. 

Stringent  laws  to  protect  from  encroachments  by 
whites.  They  can  hold  land  only  by  marrying  into 
one  of  the  tribes. 

Recent  official  reports  give  Indian  population  about 
80,000 :  Cherokees,  20,000 ;  Chocktaws,  16,500 ; 
Creeks,  14,500;  Chickasaws,  7,000;  Seminoles,  2,500; 
Osages,  2,390;  Cheyennes,  3,298;  Arapahoes,  2,676; 
Kiowas,  1,120;  Pawnees,  1,438;  Comanches,  1,475. 

No  Territorial  Government  has  as  yet  been  organi 
zed,  owing  to  differences  in  the  views  of  Congress  and 
the  tribes.  For  each  agency  a  deputy  is  appointed  by 
the  President  to  represent  the  United  States,  but  each 
tribe  manages  its  own  internal  affairs.  Most  of  the 
tribes  governed  by  chiefs. 

Of  first  five  tribes,  33,650  can  read  and  have 
16,200  houses,  195  schools  and  6,250  pupils.  Ex 
pended  from  tribal  funds  for  educational  purposes, 
$156,856 ;  from  government  appropriation  for  freedmen, 
$3,500. 

From  the  trip  to  the  Indian  Territory,  en  route  for 
Chicago,  I  took  a  rest  in  the  latter  and  again  explored 
the  State  of  Illinois,  in  order  to  complete  my  Statistics 
of  the  State. 

Kankakee  was  begun  with.  It  is  situated  upon  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  which  is  one  of  the  principal 


—  302  — 

tributaries  of  the  Illinois,  and  has  6,000  inhabitants. 
Its  manufactures ,  including  iron-foundries,  machine- 
shops,  woolen-mills,  tool-works,  plan  ing-mills,  etc., 
are  very  important.  In  the  nearest  neighborhood 
of  Kankakee  are  quarries  of  a  superior  kind  of  lime 
stone. 

Bloomington  was  the  next  city  visited.  It  is  an 
important  railroad  center,  and  the  seat  of  large  manu 
facturing  and  shipping  interests,  and  has  22,000  in 
habitants.  The  Illinois  Wesleyan  University  has 
15,000  volumes  in  its  library  and  is  a  famous  high- 
school,  and  there  are  other  important  educational  insti 
tutions  in  the  city.  The  Major  Female  College  and 
the  Female  Seminary  are  of  high  standing.  Some  of 
the  public  buildings  are  handsome,  and  the  construction 
and  repair  shops  of  the  Chicago  and  Alton  R.  R.  cover 
13  acres  of  ground. 

Peoria,  a  city  of  30,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  the 
W.  bank  of  the  Illinois  river,  and  at  the  lower  end  of 
Peoria  Lake,  is  an  important  railway  center.  The 
Courthouse,  the  Normal  School,  the  City  Hall  and  the 
Library,  with  10,000  volumes,  and  several  of  the  28 
churches  are  very  handsome  edifices.  The  main 
business  is  manufacturing,  consisting  of  distilleries, 
breweries,  iron-foundries,  machine  shops,  carriage  and 
furniture  factories,  engine  and  locomotive  shops,  etc. 
The  city  is  surrounded  by  a  fertile  prairie,  and  in  its 
vicinity  very  rich  mines  of  bituminous  coal  are 
worked. 

Quincy,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  lime-stone  bluff 


—  303  — 

125  ft.  above  the  Mississsippi  and  with  a  popula 
tion  of  27,275,  is  a  railroad  center.  The  city  is  well 
built,  and  the  trade  extensive.  The  Hanibal  and  St. 
Joseph  R.  R.  crosses  the  river  here  on  a  fine  bridge. 

Extending  my  journey  to  Springfield,  the  capital  of 
Illinois,  I  remained  in  that  beautiful  city  several  days. 
It  contains  30,000  inhabitants  and  is  built  on  a  beauti 
ful  prairie,  5  miles  S.  of  the  Sangamon  river.  The 
streets  are  broad  and  tastefully  adorned  with  shade  trees. 
From  the  beauty  of  the  place  and  its  surroundings, 
Springfield  is  called  the  "Flower  City."  One  of  the 
finest  Capitols  in  the  United  States  is  the  Springfield 
Capitol,  and  there  are  numerous  noteworthy  public 
and  private  buildings  in  the  city,  among  which  the  U. 
S.  Building,  the  County  Court  House,  the  High  School, 
State  Arsenal,  St.  John's  Hospital  and  the  Opera 
House  deserve  special  mention.  In  Oak  Ridge  Ceme 
tery,  2  miles  N.  of  the  city,  lie  the  remains  of  President 
Lincoln,  to  whose  memory  a  noble  monument  was 
erected.  The  trade  of  the  city  is  extensive,  the  sur 
rounding  country  very  productive,  and  vast  coal-mines 
in  the  vicinity.  The  chief*  manufacturing  establish 
ments  are  foundries  and  machine  shops,  flouring-mills, 
woolen-mills,  rolling-mills,  breweries  and  a  watch- 
factory.  The  extensive  shops  of  the  Wabash  R.  R.  are 
worth  paying  a  visit. 

With  this  latter  city,  I  concluded  my  explorations 
in  Illinois. 

The  "  Prairie  or  Sucker  State/'  the  State  of  Illinois, 
has  its  name  from  a  tribe  of  Indians,  signifying,  "A 


—  304  — 

superior  class  of  men."  First  permanent  settlement  by 
French  at  Kaskaskia,  1 682 ;  organized  as  a  Territory, 
1809;  admitted  as  a  State,  1818. 

Area,  56,650  square  miles;  greatest  length,  385 
miles;  greatest  breadth,  218  miles;  highest  land,  1,150 
feet.  Has  4,000  miles  navigable  streams. 

Temperature  at  Chicago:  winter,  25°  to  37°; 
summer,  68°  to  73°.  At  Cairo:  winter,  35°  to  54° ; 
summer,  76°  to  80°.  Rainfall  at  Peoria,  35  inches. 

Kaskaskia,  first  capital,  which  was  removed  to 
Vandalia,  1818,  and  to  Springfield,  1836. 

Number  of  farms,  255,741,  of  which  175,497  are 
occupied  by  owners.  Value  per  acre,  cleared  land, 
$33.03;  woodland,  $23.68. 

First  recorded  coal  mine  in  America  located  near 
Ottawa,  1669.  Coal  area,  cover  three  fourths  of  entire 
State;  estimated  to  contain  one-seventh  of  all  known 
coal  in  North  America.  Superior  quality  lime-stone 
on  Fox  and  Desplaines  rivers ;  lead,  most  important 
mineral;  galena  in  center  of  richest  diggings  of  the 
Northwest.  Rich  salt  wells  in  Salin  and  Gallatin 
counties,  75  gallons  brine-making  50  pounds  salt. 

Ranks  first  in  corn,  wheat,  oats,  meat-packing, 
lumber  traffic,  malt  and  distilled  liquors  and  miles  rail 
way  ;  second  in  rye,  coal,  agricultural  implements,  soap 
and  hogs. 

Population,  3,077,871,  incl.  46,368  Colored,  209 
Chinese,  3  Japanese  and  140  Indians.  School  system 
excellent;  number  of  colleges,  28;  school  age,  6-21. 

My  next  aim  was  the  State  of  Indiana,  and  the 


—  305  — 

first  place  visited,  Terre  Haute,  a  long  distance  from 
Chicago.  On  the  route  to  Terre  Haute  numerous 
flourishing  towns  and  villages  are  passed,  and  a  pro 
ductive  agricultural  region  is  traversed.  The  city 
contains  33,000  inhabitants  and  is  situated  on  the  E. 
bank  of  the  Wabash  river,  which  is  here  spanned  by 
3  bridges.  It  contains  2  Orphan  Asylums,  a  number 
of  fine  public  buildings,  Coate's  Female  College,  a 
Public  Library,  the  Rose  Polytechnic  School,  the  State 
Normal  School,  St.  Anthony's  Hospital  and  several  nice 
churches.  Its  manufactures  are  extensive,  and  consist 
of  carriage  and  wagon  works,  machine-shops,  nail- 
works,  blast  furnaces,  car-works,  rolling-mills,  woolen- 
mills,  and  7  flour  mills,  with  a  daily  capacity  of  3,300 
barrels.  The  Artesian  well,  2,000  ft.  deep,  is  celebra 
ted  for  its  medicinal  virtue. 

Terre  Haute  is  the  point  of  intersection  of  9  railroaad 
lines,  and  is  the  center  of  trade  for  a  populous  region. 

From  here  I  traveled  to  Indianapolis,  the  capital  of 
Indiana. 

Indianapolis  is  the  largest  city  in  the  State,  and 
situated  on  the  W.  fork  of  White  river,  near  the  center 
of  the  State.  The  city  is  built  in  a  fertile  plain  and 
has  beautiful  and  wide  streets.  Its  population  is 
75,074,  and  the  trade  and  manufactures  very  exten 
sive.  The  principal  industry  is  pork-packing,  and 
manufactures  of  machinery,  agricultural  implements, 
cars,  carriages,  furniture  and  flour.  It  is  one  of  the 
great  railway  centers  of  the  West,  no  less  than  14  rail 
ways  converge  here. 

20 


—  306  — 

Of  public  buildings  are  noteworthy:  the  State 
House,  Court  House,  the  State  Lunatic  Asylum,  State 
Institute  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  the  U.  S.  Arsenal, 
the  Post-Office,  City  Hall,  County  Jail  and  City 
Prison.  The  Butler  University  admits  both  sexes, 
and  is  4  miles  E.  of  the  city.  The  principal  charitable 
institutions  are:  3  Orphan  Asylums,  the  State  Female 
Reformatory  and  Asylum,  the  Catholic  Infirmary  and  a 
City  Hospital.  Of  churches  there  are  many  elegant 
and  costly  in  Indianapolis. 

The  Union  Passenger  Depot  is  one  of  the  most 
spacious  structures  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States. 
The  State  Library  contains  15,000  volumes  and  the 
Free  City  Library  35,000  volumes. 

Among  the  principal  manufacturing  industries  are 
the  Atlas  Engine- Works,  Indianapolis  Rolling-Mills 
and  Car-Shops,  Haugh  Iron- Works,  Malleable  Iron- 
Works,  Kingan  Pork-Packing  Houses,  and  the  Tile- 
W^orks,  etc. 

Lafayette,  one  of  the  principal  cities  of  Indiana, 
with  14,860  inhabitants,  has  a  flourishing  trade  with 
the  surrounding  country,  and  a  number  of  important 
factories,  embracing  machine-shops  and  foundries, 
flour-mills,  marble- works,  breweries,  woolen-mills,  etc. 
It  is  situated  on  the  Wabash  river,  built  on  a  rising 
ground  and  inclosed  in  the  rear  by  hills.  The  University 
with  which  is  associated  the  State  College  of  Agricul 
ture  and  the  Mechanic  Arts,  is  a  richly  endowed  insti 
tution.  Lafayette  is  the  point  of  intersection  of  5  rail 
way  lines,  and  there  are  several  handsome  buildings, 


—  307  — 

among  them  the  County  Jail,  St.  Mary's  Academy,  Ford's 
School  House,  and  the  Opera  House.  From  an  Artesian 
well,  230  ft.  deep,  near  the  center  of  the  city,  sulphur- 
water  issues  freely.  S.  of  the  city  limits  are  the  County 
Agricultural  Fair  Grounds,  and  7  miles  N.  of  Lafayette 
is  the  battle-ground  where  General  Harrison  defeated 
the  Indians,  November  7,  1811. 

Fort  Wayne  is  known  as  the  "Summit  City,"  from 
the  fact  that  it  is  on  the  water-shed  from  which  the 
streams  run  E.  and  W.  It  i^  situated  at  the  point 
where  the  Maumee  river  is  formed  by  the  confluence 
of  the  St.  Joseph  and  St.  Mary's,  and  takes  its  name 
from  an  old  frontier  fort  which  was  built  here  in  1794, 
and  which  was  retained  as  a  military  station  until  1819. 
It  is  one  of  the  chief  cities  of  Indiana,  with  a  popula 
tion  of  26,880,  and  extensive  manufactures.  The  vast 
machine-shops  of  the  Pittsburg,  Fort  Wayne  and 
Chicago  R.  R.,  and  of  the  Wabash,  St.  Louis  and 
Pacific  R.  R.  are  located  here. 

Among  the  public  buildings  are  the  Court  House 
and  County  Jail,  and  the  Concordia  College  and  the 
Fort  Wayne  College  are  prominent  educational  institu 
tions. 

The  "  Hoosier  State,"  the  State  of  Indiana,  was 
first  settled  by  Canadian  voyagers  at  Vincennes,  1702  5 
organized  as  a  Territory,  1800 ,  admitted  as  a  State, 
1816. 

Area,  36,350  square  miles;  extreme  length,  276 
miles;  average  breadth,  140  miles;  shore  line  on  Lake 
Michigan,  40. 


—  308  — 

Michigan  City  the  lake  port. 

Temperature  at  Indianapolis:  winter,  29°  to  41°; 
summer,  73°  to  78°.  Rainfall  at  Richmond,  43 
inches. 

Evansville,  commercial  center  of  the  southwest; 
population,  29,280. 

Number  of  farms,  194,013  5  average  value  per  acre, 
clear  land,  $30.46;  woodland,  $26.90.  Corn  the  most 
valuable  crop.  Coal  fields  about  6,500  square  miles, 
extending  from  Warren  County  south  to  the  Ohio; 
varieties  are  coking  coal,  Indiana  block  and  cannel. 

Ranks  second  in  wheat. 

Population,  1,978,301,  incl.  39,228  Negroes,  29 
Chinese  and  246  Indians. 

Number  of  colleges,  15;  State  University  at  Bloom- 
ington;  Medical  School  at  Indianapolis;  University  at 
Notre  Dame;  flourishing  common-school  system  ;  school 
population,  708,596;  school  age,  6-21. 

The  neighboring  State  cf  Michigan  was  explored 
from  the  starting-point,  Fort  Wayne,  and  the  first  place 
visited  was  Adrian,  the  largest  city  in  South  Michigan, 
with  about  10,000  inhabitants  and  flourishing  varied 
manufactures. 

The  monument,  erected  in  honor  of  the  77  inhabitants 
of  the  city  who  lost  their  lives  in  the  last  civil  war,  is 
exceedingly  pretty.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and 
has  many  fine  structures. 

Ann  Arbor,  a  city  of  8,000  inhabitants,  situated  on 
both  sides  of  the  Huron  river,  is  well  known  in  the 
Union  as  the  seat  of  the  University  of  Michigan,  one  of 


—  309  — 

the  leading  institutions  of  learning  in  the  West,  con 
taining  departments  of  law,  medicine,  dentistry,  etc., 
and  is  open  to  both  sexes. 

The  Observatory  of  the  University  is  a  mile  from 
the  6'ther  buildings.  The  Library  of  the  same,  contains 
45,000  volumes,  and  the  Museums  are  large  and  valu 
able. 

The  Union  School  at  Ann  Arbor  is  also  famous,  and 
there  are  5  mineral  springs  in  the  city,  and  several  fine 
churches. 

Not  far  from  here  is  the  thriving  city  of  Ypsilanti, 
with  5,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Huron  river, 
which  furnishes  water-power  for  several  flour-mills, 
paper-mills  and  other  factories.  The  State  Normal 
School  is  located  here. 

Per  Michigan  Centeral  R.  R.,  traversing  a  fine 
agricultural  country,  the  City  of  Detroit  is  reached. 
The  chief  city  of  Michigan,  Detroit,  is  situated  on  the 
N.  bank  of  the  Detroit  river,  20  miles  long,  and  con 
necting  Lakes  Erie  and  St.  Clair. 

For  at  least  6  miles  the  river  front  is  lined  with 
mills,  dry-docks,  foundries,  ship-yards,  railroad-depots, 
grain-elevators,  lumber-yards,  rolling-mills,  and  ware 
houses. 

In  1783  Detroit  was  ceded  to  the  United  States, 
but  the  Americans  did  not  take  possession  of  it  till 
1796.  During  the  war  of  1812  it  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  British,  but  was  recaptured  in  1813.  It  was  in 
corporated  as  a  city  in  1824,  when  its  population  was 
less  than  2,000;  and  now,  in  1884;  it  has  more  than 


—  310  — 

150,000  inhabitants.  The  manufactures  of  the  city 
are  numerous  and  important,  including  extensive 
machine-shops  and  iron-works,  railroad-car  factories, 
tanneries,  boot  and  shoe  factories,  chemicals,  potteries, 
manufactories  of  railway  and  vessel  supplies,  etc. 
Pork  and  fish-packing  employ  numerous  hands,  and  the 
shipping  interests  are  also  large. 

The  Campus  Martins  on  which  the  City  Hall  and 
the  Soldiers'  Monument  stand,  is  a  charming  open  space, 
600  ft.  long  and  250  ft.  wide. 

Of  the  churches  in  the  city,  special  mention 
deserve :  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul 
(Catholic),  St.  Paul's  (Episcopal),  Fort  St.  Presbyterian 
and  Central  Church  (Methodist). 

Whitney's  Opera  House  is  one  of  the  finest  in 
America.  The  Police  Headquarters  Building  and  the 
Freight  Depot  of  the  Michigan  Central  R.  R.  are  the 
most  spacious  and  noteworthy  structures  in  the  city. 
There  are  several  educational  and  charitable  institu 
tions  in  this  beautiful  city,  and  the  parks  and  suburbs 
marvellously  pretty.  About  3  miles  below  the  Michi 
gan  Central  Depot,  in  whose  neighborhood  are  the 
great  Wheat  Elevators,  is  Fort  Wayne,  a  bastioned 
redoubt,  standing  upon  the  bank  of  the  river  and  com 
pletely  commanding  the  channel. 

In  Detroit  live  relatives  of  my  family,  and  they,  as 
well  as  the  famous  musical  composer,  Mr.  Anton  Stre- 
letzki,  a  resident  of  that  city,  received  me  most  cordially, 
for  which  I  here  express  my  heartfelt  thanks  to  them. 

Before    starting   for   the   Dominion    of  Canada,  I 


—  311  — 

visited  Lansing,  the  capital  of  the  State,  with  9,776 
inhabitants,  magnificent  State  Buildings,  and  several 
famous  institutions.  The  city  is  beautifully  situated, 
and  the  trade  and  few  manufactures  are  important. 

The  "Wolverine  or  Lake  State,"  the  State  of 
Michigan,  whose  name  is  of  Indian  origin,  signifying 
"Lake  Country,"  had  first  white  settlements  within 
limits  of  State,  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  1668;  organized  as  a 
Teritory,  1805;  admitted,  1837. 

Area,  58,915  square  miles;  length  of  lower  penin 
sula,  from  north  to  south,  277  miles  ;  greatest  breadth, 
259  miles.  Length  of  upper  peninsula,  east  to  west, 
318  miles;  width,  30  to  164  miles.  Length,  lake 
shore  line,  1,620  miles. 

Temperature  at  Detroit:  winter,  24°  to  36°;  sum 
mer,  67°  to  72°;  rainfall,  30  inches. 

Grand  Rapids,  manufacturing  city;  population, 
41,934;  Bay  City,  29,413  inhabitants;  East  Saginaw 
29,100;  Jackson,  19,136;  Muskegon,  17,845;  Sagi 
naw,  13,767. 

Detroit,  Marquette,  Port  Huron  and  Grand  Haven 
are  ports  of  entry. 

Number  of  farms,  154,008.  Value  per  acre, 
cleared  land,  $34.39  ;  woodland,  $20.27. 

Fruit  raising  an  important  industry.  Copper  mines  in 
Houghton,  Ontonagon,  and  Keweenaw  counties ;  valu 
able  iron  ores  in  Marquette  and  Delta  counties ;  coal  in 
Shiawassee,  Eaton,  Ingham  and  Jackson  counties. 

Salt  manufactured  in  year  ending  November  30, 
1884,  3,252,175  barrels. 


—  312  — 

Ranks  first  in  copper,  lumber  and  salt;  second  in 
iron  ore. 

Grand  Haven,  An  Sable  and  Detroit  are  centers  of 
valuable  fishing  interests. 

Population,  incl.  17,548  Colored  and  8,259  Indians: 
1,843,369. 

Duelists  are  excluded  from  voting. 

Number  of  colleges,  9  ;  efficient  public  schools ; 
school  age,  5—20. 

Opposite  Detroit,  on  Canadian  soil,  is  the  village 
of  Windsor,  connected  with  Detroit  by  a  steam-ferry, 
on  which  the  railroad  train  is  carried  across,  and  in  15 
miles  reaches  Hamilton,  a  middle-sized,  busy  place, 
and  from  here  the  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  runs  to  Toronto, 
the  capital  of  the  Province  of  Ontario.  Situated  on  a 
beautiful  circular  bay  on  the  N.  W.  shore  of  Lake 
Ontario,  between  the  rivers  Don  and  Humber,  the 
city  is  gently  rising  from  its  low  site. 

Toronto  was  founded  in  1794  by  Governor  Simcoe, 
who  gave  it  the  name  of  York,  changed,  when  it  was 
incorporated  as  a  city,  in  1834,  to  Toronto- — meaning, 
in  the  Indian  tongue — "The  Place  of  Meeting." 

In  1813  it  was  twice  captured  by  the  Americans, 
who  destroyed  the  fortifications  and  burned  the  public 
buildings.  In  1817  the  population  was  1,200,  and  now 
it  is  over  110,000. 

Among  the  manufactures  are  iron  and  other 
foundries,  distilleries,  flour-mills,  breweries,  paper, 
furniture,  etc.  The  finest  buildings  in  the  city  and 
among  the  finest  of  the  kind  in  America  are  those  of 


—  313  — ,    > 

the  University  of  Toronto.  The  University  Library 
contains  20,000  volumes,  and  there  is  a-  fine  Museum 
of  Natural  History.  Knox  College,  the  College  of 
Technology,  the  Normal  School,  Model  Schools, 
the  Educational  Museum,  Trinity  College,  the 
Upper  Canada  College,  and  the  Public  Library 
are  eminent  schools  of  learning  and  beautiful  struc 
tures. 

Among  the  churches,  the  Episcopal  Cathedral  of 
St.  James,  the  Wesleyan  Methodist  Church,  and  the 
Cathedral  of  St.  Michael  (Catholic),  are  richly  deco 
rated,  massive  edifices.  Osgoode  Hall,  containing  the 
Provincial  Law  Courts,  the  Provincial  Lunatic  Asy 
lum,  the  General  Hospital,  Crystal  Palace,  Masonic 
Hall,  Grand  Opera  House  and  the  Horticultural  Gar 
den-Pavilion  and  St.  Lawrence  Hall  are  noteworthy, 
imposing  buildings. 

The  Loretto  Abbey  is  the  principal  nunnery  in  the 
city,  and  the  City  Hall,  Post  Office,  Custom  House, 
Court  House  and  the  Lawrence  Market,  unpretentious, 
fine  and  spacious  architectures.  In  the  Queens  Park 
is  the  colossal  marble  statue  of  Britania,  to  the  memory 
of  the  Canadians  who  fell  in  repelling  the  Fenian  in 
vasion  of  1866. 

The  trip  down  the  St.  Lawrence  usually  begins  at 
Kingston,  which  place  I  had  reached  from  Toronto. 
Kingston  has  13,000  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  at  the 
foot  of  Lake  Ontario.  After  leaving  Kingston  the 
steamer  enters  the  Lake  of  the  Thousand  Islands  (in 
the  St,  Lawrence). 


—  314  — 

These  islands  are  1,692  in  number  and  they  ex 
tend  for  40  miles  below  Lake  Ontario. 

They  are  of  every  imaginable  size,  shape  and  ap 
pearance,  some  scarcely  visible,  and  others  covering 
many  acres,  some  consisting  of  bare  masses  of  rock, 
others  thickly  wooded.  The  numerous  light-houses, 
marking  out  the  navigable  channel  are  fragile  wooden 
structures  of  rather  dreary  appearance.  The  chief 
summer  resort  of  the  Thousand  Islands  is  Alexandria 
Bay.  On  the  islets  near  the  bay  are  many  elegant  vil 
las,  among  which  one  is  owned  by  Mr.  Pullman,  of 
palace-car  fame.  About  8  miles  S.  E.  of  Alexandria 
Bay  are  the  romantic  Lakes  of  Theresa,  (Clear,  Crys 
tal,  Mud,  Butterfield,  and  Lake  of  the  North).  Brock- 
ville,  on  the  Canadian  shore,  is  nn  important  town  of 
nearly  6,000  inhabitants,  and  at  this  point  in  the  river 
the  Lake  of  the  Thousand  Islands  ends.  Thirteen  miles 
from  Brockville,  on  the  Canadian  side,  lies  Prcscott, 
and  opposite  the  nourishing  American  city  of  Ogdens- 
burg.  A  few  miles  below  Ogdensburg  the  descent  of 
the  first  rapids  (Gallopes  Rapids)  is  made,  and  imme 
diately  afterward  of  the  Rapide  dc  Plat.  Dickinson's 
Landing  is  at  the  head  of  the  famous  Long  Sault 
Rapids,  which  are  9  miles  in  length.  Here  the  cele 
brated  sensation,  known  as  u Shooting  the  Rapids77  is 
experienced.  Until  1840  this  passage  was  considered 
impossible;  but  by  watching  the  course  of  rafts  down 
the  river,  a  channel  was  discovered  and  steamboats 
then  attempted  it,  for  the  first  time,  under  the  guid 
ance  of  the  Indian  pilot  Teronhiahere.  The  Cornwall 


—  315  — 

Canal,  11  miles  long,  enables  vessels  to  go  round  the 
Rapids  in  ascending  the  river. 

Cornwall  is  a  thriving  town  at  the  foot  of  the 
Rapids,  opposite  which  is  the  large  Indian  village  of 
St.  Regis.  Just  below  this  place  the  St.  Lawrence, 
now  entirely  in  Canada,  expands  into  Lake  St.  Fran 
cis,  25  miles  long  and  5  miles  wide.  Coteau  du  Lac, 
30  miles  below  Cornwall,  is  at  the  head  of  the  Coteau 
Rapids,  which,  9  miles  belowr,  take  the  name  of  the 
Cedars,  and,  still  further  on,  of  the  Cascades.  At  the 
foot  of  the  Cascades  is  Beauharnois,  at  the  lower  end 
of  a  canal  11J  miles  long,  around  the  Rapids.  From 
this  point  to  the  head  of  the  Lachine  Rapids  the  ex 
panse  of  the  river  is  called  Lake  St.  Louis,  which  is 
12  miles  long  and  5  miles  "wide.  One  of  the  most 
noticeable  features  of  this  lake  is  Nun's  Island,  former 
ly  an  Indian  burying-ground,  but  now  the  property 
of  the  Grey  Nunnery  at  Montreal.  Lachine  is  at  the 
head  of  the  Lachine  Rapids  which,  though  the  short 
est,  are  the  most  turbulent  and  dangerous  on  the  river. 
In  calm  water  again,  the  spires,  domes  and  towers  of 
Montreal  are  visible  and  soon  afterward  the  city  is 
reached. 

Montreal,  the  largest  city  and  commercial  metropo 
lis  of  British  North  America,  is  situated  on  an  island 
of  the  same  name,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ottawa  and 
St.  Lawrence  Rivers,  in  lat.  45°  31'  N.  and  Ion.  73° 
35'  W.  I  derives  its  name  from  Mont  Real,  or  Mount 
Royal,  which  rises  700  ft.  above  the  river,  and  closes 
the  city  in  on  that  side.  The  quays  of  Montreal  are 


—  316  — 

built  of  solid  limestone,  and  uniting  with  the  locks  and 
cutstone  wharves  of  the  Lachine  Canal,  they  present 
for  about  2  miles  a  display  of  continuous  masonry 
which  has  few  parallels.  The  first  visit  to  Montreal 
dates  from  1535,  when  Jacques  Cartier  arrived,  who 
named  its  mountain. 

In  1642  arrived  the  first  installment  of  European 
settlers,  and  the  original  Indian  name  "Hochelaga"  gave 
place  to  the  French  one  of  {t  Ville  Marie.'7  This  name 
was  afterward  replaced  by  the  present  one.  In  Novem 
ber  1775,  Montreal  was  captured  by  the  Americans 
under  General  Montgomery  and  held  until  the  follow 
ing  summer.  In  1779  it  contained  about  7,000  inhabi 
tants.  In  1861  the  population  had  increased  to  90,323, 
and  in  1880  to  140,747.  The  commerce  of  Montreal  is 
very  large,  it  being  the  chief  shipping-port  of  the 
Dominion  of  Canada.  Its  manufactures  are  varied  and 
important,  the  principal  are  axes  and  saws,  steam- 
engines,  printing-types,  India-rubber  shoes,  paper, 
furniture,  woolens,  cordage,  and  flour. 

The  Court  House  contains  a  library  of  15,000  vol 
umes,  and  back  of  it  is  the  Champ  de  Mars,  a  fine 
military  parade-ground. 

The  City  Hall,  the  Bank  of  Montreal,  Molson's 
Bank,  the  huge  Victoria  Skating-Eink,  used  in  sum 
mer  for  horticultural  shows,  and  the  Mechanics7  Insti 
tute  are  elaborately  decorated  structures. 

Few  American  cities  equal  Montreal  in  the  size  and 
magnificence  of  its  church  edifices.  The  Roman  Catho 
lic  Parish  Church  of  Notre-Dame  is  next  to  the  Cathe- 


—  317  — 

dral  of  Mexico  the  largest  on  the  continent,  capable  of 
seating  from  10,000  to  12,000  people.  In  one  of  the 
six  towers  is  a  fine  chime  of  bells,  the  largest  of  which, 
the  "Gros  Bourdon,"  weighs  24,900  pounds.  The 
Cathedral  of  St.  Peter,  now  in  the  course  of  erection, 
(after  the  plan  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome),  will  surpass  this 
huge  structure  in  size.  Christ  Church  Cathedral 
(Episcopal),  the  Church  of  the  Gesu  (Jesuit),  and  St. 
Andrew's  Church  (Presbyterian),  are  the  most  eminent 
of  the  numerous  churches  in  this  city. 

First  among  the  educational  institutions  is  the  Uni 
versity  of  McGill  College,  with  one  of  the  finest  mu 
seums  in  the  country. 

The  museum  of  the  Natural  History  Society  has 
also  a  valuable  collection,  and  the  Seminary  of  St.  Sul- 
pice,  for  the  education  of  Catholic  Priests,  is  very 
famous.  The  Grey  Nunnery,  the  Black  or  Congrega 
tional  Nunnery,  and  the  great  Convent  of  the  Holy 
Names  of  Jesus  and  Mary  are  devoted  to  the  education 
of  young  persons  of  the  female  sex. 

The  Hotel  Dieu,  founded  in  1644  for  the  cure  of 
the  sick  is  an  imposing  structure,  and  the  Montreal 
General  Hospital,  and  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylums 
are  noble  charities.  The  old  Government  House,  the 
Nelson  Monument,  the  Water  Works  and  the  Bonse- 
cours  Market  are  of  special  interest  and  worth  visiting. 

The  eighth  wonder  of  the  world,  as  it  has  been 
called,  is  the  Victoria  Bridge  in  Montreal,  wLIch  spans 
the  St.  Lawrence,  connecting  the  city  on  the  island 
with  the  mainland  to  the  S.  The  total  cost  of  the 


—  318  — 

bridge,  formally  opened  by  the  Prince  of  Wales,  during 
his  visit  to  America  in  the  summer  of  I860,  was  $6,- 
300,000. 

After  seeing  the  Lachine  Rapids  most  advanta 
geously,  I  proceeded  to  the  White  Mountains,  via 
Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  to  Gorham. 

The  aboriginal  name  of  the  White  Mountains,  the 
"Switzerland"  of  America,  was  Agiochook  or  Agioco- 
chook,  signifying  "Mountain  of  the  Snowy  Forehead 
and  Home  of  the  Great  Spirit."  The  first  white  man 
to  visit  them,  according  to  Belknap,  the  State  Histor 
ian,  was  Walter  Neal,  in  1632. 

The  White  Mountains  rise  from  a  plateau  in 
Grafton  and  Coos  Counties,  New  Hampshire,  about  45 
miles  long  by  30  broad,  and  1,600  ft.  above  the  sea. 
Some  20  peaks  of  various  elevations  rise  from  the 
plateau,  which  is  traversed  by  several  deep,  narrow 
valleys.  The  peaks  cluster  in  two  groups,  of  which 
the  eastern  is  known  locally  as  the  White  Mountains, 
and  the  western  as  the  Franconia  Group.  They  are 
separated  by  a  table-land  varying  from  10  to  20  miles 
in  breadth.  The  principal  summits  of  the  eastern 
group  are  Mounts  Washington,  6,293  ft.  high,  Adams, 
5,759  ft.,  Jefferson,  5,657  ft.,  Madison,  5,361  ft.,  Mon 
roe,  5,349  ft.,  Franklin,  4,850  ft.,  Pleasant,  4,712  ft., 
Webster,  Clinton,  and  Clay.  The  principal  summits 
of  the  Franconia  Group  are  Mounts  Pleasant,  Lafayette, 
5,280  ft.  high,  Liberty,  Cherry  Mountain,  and  Moosi- 
laukee.  Near  the  S.  border  of  the  plateau  rise  White- 
face  Mountain,  Chocorua  Peak,  Red  Hill,  and  Mount 


Ossipee ;  and  in  the  S.  Ev  Mount  Kearsarge.  With 
the  exceptions  of  the  Black  Mountains  of  North  Caro 
lina,  several  of  these  peaks  are  the  highest  elevations 
in  the  United  States  E.  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Multitudes  of  little  streams  force  their  way  down 
steep  giens  from  springs  far  up  the  mountain-sides,  and 
flow  through  narrow  valleys  among  the  hills.  The 
courses  of  these  rivulets  furnish  irregular  but  certain 
pathways  for  the  rough  roads  that  have  been  cut  be 
side  them,  and  by  which  the  traveler  gains  access  to 
these  wild  mountain-retreats. 

Gorham  is  the  N.  E.  gateway  to  the  mountain- 
region.  It  is  a  thriving  village,  situated  in  a  broad 
and  beautiful  valley  at  the  confluence  of  the  Andros- 
coggin  and  Peabody  Rivers,  800  ft.  above  the  sea. 
The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  the  village  is  remarkably 
striking,  both  in  the  views  of  the  mountain-ranges  and 
isolated  mountains,  and  of  rivers  and  waterfalls.  The 
range  of  Mounts  Moriali,  Carter,  and  The  Imp,  in  par 
ticular  is  seen  to  great  advantage. 

Mount  Carter  is  one  of  the  highest  and  Mount 
Moriah  the  most  graceful  of  the  larger  New  Hampshire 
hills.  The  noble  chain  of  hills  to  the  N.  W.  of  Gorham 
is  known  as  the  Pilot  Range  j  while  on  the  E.  and  S. 
E.  the  valley  is  walled  in  by  the  stalwart  and  brawny 
Androscoggin  Hills.  Mount  Hays,  the  highest  of  these 
latter,  2,500  ft.,  is  directly  N.  E.  of  the  village  and  is 
ascended  in  about  2  hours. 

Though  I  had  stayed  a  considerably  long  time  in  that 
mountain-region,  it  is,  nevertheless,  impossible  to  de- 


—  320  — 

* 

scribe  all  the  visited  spots,  and  concluding  my  graphics 
on  the  White  Mountains,  I  board  a  train  of  the  Grand 
Trunk  R.  R  .,  bound  for  Quebec. 

Quebec,  the  oldest,  and  after  Montreal  the  most 
important  city  in  British  North  America,  is  situated  on 
the  N.  W.  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  at  its  con 
fluence  with  the  St.  Charles,  nearly  300  miles  from  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  It  is  built  on  the  N.  extremity 
of  an  elevated  tongue  of  land  which  forms  the  left  bank 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  for  several  miles.  Cape  Diamond, 
so  called  from  the  numerous  quartz-crystals  former 
ly  found  there,  is  the  loftiest  part  of  the  headland,  333 
ft.  above  the  river,  on  which  the  vast  fortifications  of 
the  Citadel  are  located.  They  occupy  about  40  acres, 
and  were  once  considered  so  impregnable,  that  they  ob 
tained  for  Quebec  the  name  of  the  (f  Gibraltar  of 
America."  The  city  is  divided  into  the  Upper  and 
Lower  Town,  the  ascent  from  the  latter  is  very  steep 
and  winding  and  called  Mountain  Street,  or  Cote  de  la 
Montagne. 

The  site  of  Quebec  was  visited  by  Cartier  in  1534, 
and  the  city  was  founded  by  Champlain  in  1608.  It 
was  taken  by  the  English  in  1629,  and  restored  to 
France  by  the  treaty  of  1632.  In  1690  the  neighbor 
ing  English  colonies  made  an  unsuccessful  maritime 
expedition  against  it,  and  in  1711  the  attempt  was  re 
newed,  with  no  better  success.  In  1759,  during  the 
Seven  Years*  War,  the  English  under  General  Wolfe 
attacked  the  city  and  bombarded  it.  On  September 
13,  the  first  battle  of  the  plains  of  Abraham  took  place, 


—  321  — 

in  which  both  Wolfe  and  Montealm,  the  French  Com 
mander,  fell,  and  England  gained  at  one  blow  an 
American  Empire.  The  French  recaptured  the  city 
the  next  spring,  but  at  the  treaty  of  peace  in  1763 
Louis  XV  ceded  the  whole  of  New  France  to  the  Eng 
lish.  In  December  1775,  a  small  American  force, 
under  General  Montgomery,  attempted  its  capture,  but 
failed,  after  losing  700  men  and  their  commander. 
The  population  of  the  city  at  that  time  was  only  5,000. 
In  1861  it  was  59,900,  and  in  1881,  62,500.  Quebec 
has  a  large  maritime  commerce  and  is  one  of  the  great 
est  lumber  and  timber  markets  on  the  American  Con 
tinent.  The  chief  articles  of  manufactures  are  ships, 
saw-mill  products,  boots  and  shoes,  confectionery, 
bakery-products,  furniture,  foundry-products,  machin 
ery,  paper,  leather,  cutlery,  musical  instruments,  and 
India-rubber  goods. 

The  five  original  gates  in  the  city  wall  were  re 
moved  some  years  ago,  but  new  ones  of  a  more  or 
namental  character  have  since  been  built,  viz. :  Kent 
Gate,  named  in  honor  of  the  father  of  Queen  Victoria,  the 
Duke  of  Kent;  St.  Louis  Gate,  and  St.  John's  Gate. 
Dufferin  Terrace,  lies  along  the  edge  of  the  cliff, 
towering  200  ft.  above  the  river,  and  overlooking  the 
Lower  Town.  Part  of  it  occupies  the  site  of  the  old 
Chateau  St.  Louis,  built  by  Champlain  in  1620,  and 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1834.  Dufferin  Terrace,  opened 
to  the  public  in  June,  1879,  by  the  Marquis  of  Lome 
and  Princess  Louise,  is  an  unequalled  promenade  over 

•J  mile  long. 

21 


—  322  — 

The  outlook  from  the  Terrace  is  one  of  the  finest 
in  the  world.  The  Esplanade  is  another  attractive 
promenade.  The  view  from  the  Grand  Battery  is 
considered  by  some  finer  even  than  that  from  the  Ter 
race. 

Laval  University  contains  a  spacious  chemical 
laboratory,  with  complete  apparatus  5  the  geological, 
mineralogical,  and  botanical  collections ;  the  museum 
of  zoology,  containing  upward  of  1,300  different  birds 
and  7,000  insects;  and  the  especially  complete  museum 
of  the  medical  department.  The  Library  numbers 
nearly  90,000  volumes,  and  the  Picture  Gallery  is  one 
of  the  finest.  The  Quebec  Literary  and  Historical 
Society  has  rich  collections  of  manuscripts.  The 
Seminary  of  Quebec,  founded  1663  by  M.  de  Laval, 
first  bishop  of  Quebec,  contains  in  its  Chapel  some  fine 
paintings.  Morrin  College  has  in  its  buildings  the 
museums  of  the  Historical  Society  and  the  library,  con 
taining  12,000  volumes. 

The  former  Cathedral  of  Quebec,  now  the  Basilica, 
is  a  spacious  cut-stone  building,  seating  4,000  persons 
and  contains  in  its  richly  decorated  interior  several 
original  paintings  of  Vandyke,  Caracci,  Halle  and 
others.  In  this  Basilica  lie  the  remains  of  Cham  plain, 
the  founder  and  first  Governor  of  the  city.  There  are 
numerous  churches  and  chapels  in  Quebec,  some  of  them 
handsome  edifices. 

Other  noteworthy  buildings  are  the  Ursuline  Con 
vent,  founded  in  1639;  in  the  Chapel  of  the  Convent 
are  some  original  paintings  by  Vandyke,  Champagne, 


—  323  — 

and  others,  and  here  are  buried  the  remains  of  the 
Marquis  de  Montcalm;  the  Grey  Nunnery,  which  has 
a  richly  ornamented  Chapel  5  the  Hotel  Dieu,  with  its 
convent  and  chapel,  founded  in  1639,  by  the  Duchess 
d'Aiguillon,  and  in  whose  convent  chapel  are  some 
valuable  paintings;  the  Black  Nunnery 5  the  Post- 
Office;  Custom  House;  Marine  Hospital;  General 
Hospital;  and  the  Parliament  and  Departmental  Build 
ings  (not  completed),  and  numerous  others.  The 
historic  Plains  of  Abraham  are  in  the  suburbs,  and  on 
the  spot  where  General  Wolfe  fell  in  the  memorable 
battle  of  September  13,  1759,  stands  Wolfe's  Monument. 
On  the  plains  stands  the  Monument  commemorating  the 
victory  won  by  the  Chevalier  de  Levis  over  General 
Murray  in  1760. 

Within  excursion  distance  of  Quebec  are  several 
points  of  interest  and  fine  drives.  Lorette,  an  ancient 
village  of  the  Huron  Indians,  is  9  miles  distant,  and  the 
Falls  of  the  Little  River,  near  the  village,  are  very 
picturesque.  Eight  miles  below  Quebec  are  the  Falls 
of  Montmorenci,  wonderfully  beautiful,  and  the  Falls  of 
Chaudiere,  ten  miles  from  the  city.  The  rapid  river 
plunges,  in  a  sheet  350  ft.  wide,  over  a  precipice  150 
ft.  .high,  presenting  very  much  the  look  of  boiling 
water. 

The  Quarantine  for  Quebec  is  at  Grosse  Isle,  30 
miles  down,  and  a  little  beyond  Chateau  Richer  is  St. 
Anne  de  Beaupre,  famous  for  its  church  of  St.  Anne,  in 
which  miraculous  cures  are  said  to  be  effected  by  the 
relics  of  the  Saint,  which  are  exhibited  at  morning 


—  324  — 

mass.  The  celebrated  Falls  of  St.  Anne  are  very 
beautiful.  The  lower  fall  is  130  ft.  high,  and  below  it 
the  water  rushes  down  through  a  somber,  and  picture 
sque  ravine. 

Eight  miles  below  St.  Anne  is  Cape  Tourment,  a 
bold  promontory,  and  a  little  beyond  are  the  frowning 
peaks  of  Cape  Rouge  and  Cape  Gribaune. 

From  Goose  Island  to  the  Saguenay  River,  the  St. 
Lawrence  is  about  20  miles  wide,  and  black  whales  are 
often  seen  in  its  waters.  Riviere  du  Loup,  and  Caco- 
una,  6  miles  below,  the  favorite  summer  resort  of  the 
Canadians,  are  miraculously  pretty  places,  and  opposite 
the  latter  is  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay  River.  Tado- 
usac  was  the  first  place  visited,  en  route  the  Saguenay 
River.  It  is  a  small  village,  situated  a  short  distance 
above  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  apart  from  its  attrac 
tions  as  a  watering-place,  is  interesting  as  the  spot  on 
which  stood  the  first  stone-and-mortar  building  ever 
erected  by  Europeans  on  the  Continent  of  America. 
The  scenery  here  is  wild  and  romantic  in  the  extreme. 
St.  John's  Bay,  Eternity  Bay,  the  latter  offering  the 
most  striking  feature  of  the  river  scenery,  are  unequal 
led,  and  farther  on  is  Statue  Point,  a  grand  bowlder, 
1,000  ft.  high,  noticeable  for  a  cave  half  way  up 
its  face,  utterly  inaccessible  from  above  or  below, 
and  still  farther  above  is  Le  Tableau,  a  lofty  plateau. 
A  few  miles  beyond  is  the  entrance  to  Ha!  Ha!  Bay, 
which  runs  7  miles  S.  W.  from  the  Saguenay  River.  It 
was  so  named  on  account  of  the  delightful  contrast 
which  the  first  French  Voyagers  there  beheld  after  the 


—  325  — 

awful  solitude  of  the  lower  river.  Chicoutimi,  about 
20  miles  above  Ha !  Ha !  Bay ,  is  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  river,  and  has  considerable  trade.  Before 
entering  the  Saguenay,  the  Chicoutimi  River  plunges 
over  a  granite  ledge  50  ft.  high.  Nine  miles  above 
Chicoutimi  begin  the  Rapids  of  the  Saguenay,  said  to 
be  little  inferior  in  grandeur  to  those  of  the  Niagara  and 
a  great  deal  longer. 

The  Saguenay  is  the  largest  tributary  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  undoubtedly  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
rivers  in  the  world.  Its  head-water  is  Lake  St.  John, 
40  miles  long  and  nearly  as  wide,  which,  although  11 
large  rivers  fall  into  it,  has  no  other  outlet  than  the 
Saguenay. 

The  original  name  of  this  river  was  Chicoutimi,  an 
Indian  word,  signifying  deep  water;  and  its  present 
name  is  said  to  be  a  corruption  of  St.  Jean  Nez.  The 
course  of  the  Saguenay  is  about  140  miles  from  Lake 
St.  John  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  which  it  enters  120  miles 
below  Quebec. 

Per  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  via  Coteau,  and  afterward 
per  Canada  Atlantic,  and  the  Gtmadian  Pacific  Rail 
Roads,  I  continued  my  voyage  to  Ottawa. 

The  capital  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada  is  situated 
one  the  S.  bank  of  the  Ottawa  river,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Rideau.  It  is  divided  into  the  Upper  and  Lower 
Town  by  the  Rideau  Canal,  which  passes  through  it 
and  connects  it  with  Kingston,  on  Lake  Ontario. 
Bridges  also  connect  the  city  with  the  towns  of  Hull 
and  New  Edinburgh,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Ottawa 


—  326  — 

river.  Ottawa  was  originally  called  Bytown,  in  honor 
of  Colonel  By,  of  the  Royal  Engineers,  by  whom  it  was 
laid  out  in  1827.  It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  under 
its  present  name,  1854,  and  was  selected  by  Queen 
Victoria  as  the  seat  of  the  Canadian  Government  in 
1858. 

It  has  40,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  entrepot  of  the 
lumber-trade  of  the  Ottawa  and  its  tributaries,  and  has 
a  number  of  large  saw-millls,  several  flour-mills,  and 
manufactories  of  iron-castings,  mill-machinery,  agricul 
tural  implements,  etc. 

The  Government  Buildings  are  the  chief  feature  of 
the  city  and  cost  $4,000,000.  They  contain  the  vari 
ous  Government  bureaus,  the  Post-Office,  the  Model- 
Room  of  the  Patent-Office,  the  Senate  Hall,  the  Cham 
ber  of  Commons,  and  the  Library,  containing  40,000 
volumes. 

The  official  residence  of  the  Governor-General,  is  in 
New  Edinburgh,  across  the  Rideau  river. 

After  the  Government  Buildings  the  most  imposing 
edifice  in  the  city  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of 
Notre  Dame.  In  the  interior  of  the  Cathedral  is  a 
painting  by  Murillo,  representing  the  "Flight  into 
Egypt."  The  Ottawa  University,  the  Ladies  College, 
and  the  Normal  School,  and  Model  College,  the  great 
geological  Institute,  are  eminent  schools. 

There  are  in  the  city  two  convents,  two  hospitals, 
three  orphan  asylums,  a  Magdalen  asylum  and  the  Grey 
and  Black  Nunneries. 

The   scenery  in  the   vicinity  of  Ottawa  is  really 


—  327  — 

grand,  at  the  W.  extremity  are  the  Chaudiere  Falls. 
The  Rideau  Falls,  two  in  number,  are  very  attractive. 

Returned  to  Montreal  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining 
official  statistics,  and  than  to  explore  the  Adirondacks, 
Lake  George,  and  Lake  Champlain  before  starting  for 
New  York  ;  I  consider  it  my  duty  to  publicly  express 
my  sincerest  thanks  to  the  numerous  friends,  left  behind 
in  the  hospitable  Dominion  of  Canada,  for  the  many 
favors  conferred  upon  me;  especially  to  the  German 
Consul  Mr.  Munderloh  and  his  Secretary,  the  amiable 
families  of  Messrs.  Boas  and  Moss,  and  the  learned 
body  of  McGill  University,  in  particular  the  Botan 
ist  Penhallou,  and  to  several  clergymen  in  Montreal; 
to  the  acting  Prime  Minister,  Mr.  Pierre  Garneau, 
and  the  German  Consul  in  Quebec;  to  the  Scientists 
of  the  Geological  Institution,  and  to  Professor  Fletcher 
of  the  Experimental  Agricultural  Station  in  Ottawa, 
by  whose  kindness  I  was  enabled  to  send  a  rich  col 
lection  to  Europe. 

The  most  populous  Province  of  the  Dominion  of 
Canada  is  Ontario,  established  in  1867.  Previous  to 
1791  it  formed  part  of  the  Province  of  Quebec;  from 
1791  to  1840  known  as  Upper  Canada;  in  1840  re 
united  with  Quebec,  under  the  name  of  Canada. 

Area,  (census  of  1881),  101,733  square  miles.  Total 
land  occupied,  19,259,909  acres;  improved,  11,294,- 
109  acres,  of  which  8,370,266  acres  were  under  crops; 
2,619,038  acres  in  pasture,  and  304,805  acres  in  gar 
dens  and  orchards. 

Temperature  at   Toronto:  winter,  4.8°  to  62.5° 5 


—  328  -- 

summer,  38.7°  to  92.7°;  mean  temperature,  44.16°. 
Rainfall  at  Toronto,  28.43  inches.  The  surface  of  the 
country  is  diversified  by  numerous  lakes  and  rivers. 

The  agricultural  resources  are  very  great,  and  the 
mineral  wealth  varied  and  rich. 

Public  affairs  are  administered  by  a  Lieutenant 
Governor,  assisted  by  an  Executive  Council  of  6,  and 
a  House  of  Assembly  of  89  members.  Ontario  sends 
24  members  to  the  Dominion  Senate. 

Population  of  the  Province,  1881,1,923,228.  Num 
ber  of  churches,  5,075;  of  which  2,375  are  Metho 
dists,  852  Presbyterian,  680  Church  of  England,  389 
Baptist,  and  367  Roman  Catholic.  There  are  21  hos 
pitals,  and  22  orphanages.  Number  of  colleges  and 
universities,  17;  boarding  schools,  44. 

There  is  an  excellent  system  of  free  schools  under 
the  control  of  a  Minister  of  Education  and  a  Chief 
Superintendent.  School  population,  405,857.  Num 
ber  of  high  schools,  public  and  private,  410;  public 
elementary  schools,  5,313. 

The  agricultural  products  are  wheat,  barley,  oats, 
rye,  beans,  peas,  buck-wheat,  corn,  potatoes,  turnips, 
hay,  grass  and  clover  seed,  flaxseed,  tobacco,  and 
hops. 

Timber  in  abundance;  and  the  681  fisheries  in  the 
Province  very  important. 

Quebec  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  Cana 
dian  Provinces.  Earliest  settlements  made  by  Euro 
peans,  in  1541;  first  permanent  settlement  made  by 
the  French  on  the  present  site  of  the  city  of  Quebec, 


—  329  — 

1608.  Country  occupied  by  the  French  until  1759, 
when,  through  the  victory  of  General  Wolfe,  it  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  English. 

Area,  census  of  1881,  188,688  square  miles. 

Total  amount  of  land  occupied,  12,625,877  acres  ; 
improved,  6,410,264  acres,  of  which  4,147,984  were 
under  crop,  2,207,422  in  pasture,  and  54,858  in  gar 
dens  and  orchards.  Population,  1,359,027.  While 
the  climate  is  similar  to  that  of  Ontario,  it  is  colder  in 
winter,  and  warmer  in  summer.  At  Montreal  the 
winters  are  very  severe,  the  temperature  often  ranging 
from  zero  to  10°  and  even  30°  below  it,  and  in  sum 
mer  it  is  frequently  90°  in  the  shade. 

Public  affairs  are  administered  by  a  Lieutenant 
Governor,  assisted  by  an  Executive  Council,  a  Legis 
lative  Council  of  24  members,  and  a  Legislative  As 
sembly  of  65  members. 

The  Province  sends  24  members  to  the  Dominion 
Senate.  The  surface  of  the  country  is  varied,  consist 
ing  of  extensive  forests,  large  rivers,  lakes  and  prai 
ries,  and  bold  rocky  heights.  The  Province  abounds 
in  numerous  minerals.  Among  the  agricultural  pro 
ducts  are  wheat,  barley,  oats,  rye,  peas,  beans,  buck 
wheat,  corn,  potatoes,  turnips,  grass  and  clover  seed, 
hay,  tobacco  and  hops.  Public  instruction  is  under 
a  Superintendent  of  Education;  school  population, 
209,623.  Number  of  elementary  public  schools,  4,404; 
pupils,  170,858;  colleges,  44;  academies,  246 ;  special 
schools,  18;  normal,  3;  model,  333. 

The  forests  are  extensive,  and  the  lumbering  and 


—  330  — 

* 

shipbuilding  interests  are  large.  The  products  of  the 
fisheries  are  very  valuable. 

The  prevailing  religion  is  Roman  Catholic. 

The  number  adhering  to  that  faith  is,  1,170,718, 
or  about  seven-eights  of  the  entire  population.  Num 
ber  of  churches  in  the  Province,  1,280,  of  which  712 
are  Roman  Catholics. 

Number  of  hospitals,  29  5  orphanages,  11. 

Among  the  statistics,  those  of  British  Columbia 
were  also  kindly  given  to  me,  and,  since  I  had  exten 
sively  traveled  in  that  distant  Province,  I  am  only  too 
glad  to  reproduce  the  same. 

The  Colony  of  British  Columbia  was  established 
1858,  and  admitted  into  the  Dominion,  1871.  Area, 
including  Vancouver's  Island,  341,305  square  miles. 
Population,  49,459.  Climate  milder  than  that  of  same 
latitude  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  Country  traversed 
by  Rocky  and  Cascade  Mountains.  Loftiest  peak, 
Mount  Browne,  16,000  ft.  high.  Government  consists 
of  a  Lieutenant  GoA^ernor,  an  Executive  Council,  and 
a  Legislative  Assembly,  elected  by  the  people.  Amount 
of  land  occupied,  441,255  acres  5  improved,  184,885 
acres.  The  grain  product,  potatoes  and  hops,  impor 
tant,  and  timber  in  abundance.  The  mineral  wealth  of 
the  Province  is  very  great,  the  chief  source  being  coal. 
On  the  mainland  and  Vancouver's  Island  large  deposits 
of  bituminous  coal  are  found,  and  on  Queen  Charlotte's 
Island  a  fine  grade  of  anthracite.  Gold  is  found  in 
various  localities.  In  ten  years  the  yield  in  the  Pro 
vince  exceeded  $22,000,000. 


—  331  — 

The  Adirondacks,  situated  in  the  northern  part  of 
New  York  State,  between  Lakes  George  and  Cham- 
plain  on  the  E.,  and  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  N.  W., 
extend  on  the  north  to  Canada  and  on  the  S.  nearly  to 
the  Mohawk  River.  The  mountains  rise  from- an  ele 
vated  plateau,  which  extends  over  this  portion  of  the 
country  for  150  miles  in  width  and  100  in  length,  and 
is  itself  nearly  2,000  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
Five  ranges  of  mountains,  running  almost  parallel, 
traverse  this  plateau  from  southwest  to  northeast,  where 
they  terminate  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Champlain.  The 
most  westerly,  which  bears  the  name  of  the  Clinton 
Range,  begins  at  Little  Falls  and  terminates  at  Trem- 
bleau  Point,  on  Lake  Champlain.  It  contains  the 
highest  peaks  of  the  entire  region,  the  loftiest  being 
Mount  Marcy,  or  Tahawus,  5,337  ft.  high,  while 
Mounts  Seward,  Mclntire,  McMartin,  Whiteface,  Dix 
Peak,  Golden,  Santanoni,  Snowy  Mountain  and  Pharaoh 
are  none  far  from  5,000  ft.  high.  The  entire  number 
of  mountains  in  the  Adirondack  region  is  supposed  to 
exceed  500,  of  which  only  a  few  have  received  separ 
ate  names.  They  are  all  wild  and  savage,  and  covered 
with  the  "forest  primeval/'  except  the  stony  summits 
of  the  highest,  which  rise  above  all  vegetation,  but 
that  of  mosses,  grasses,  and  dwarf  Alpine  plants. 

There  are  many  beautiful  lakes  and  ponds  in  the 
mountain-valleys,  numbering  about  1,000.  The  gene 
ral  level  of  these  lakes  is  about  1,500  ft.  above  the  sea, 
but  Lake  Perkins,  the  highest  of  them,  has  an  eleva 
tion  of  over  4,000  ft.  Some  are  only  a  few  acres  in 


—  332  — 

length,  others  cover  20  miles.  Among  the  largest  are 
Long  Lake,  the  Saranacs,  Tupper,  the  Fulton  Lakes, 
and  Lake  Golden,  Henderson,  Sanford,  Blue  Mountain, 
Kaquette,  Forked,  Newcomb,  and  Pleasant.  This 
labyrinth  of  lakes  is  connected  by  a  very  intricate  sys 
tem  of  rivers,  rivulets,  and  brooks.  The  Saranac  and 
the  Ausable  run  in  nearly  parallel  lines  toward  the  N. 
E.,  discharging  their  waters  into  Lake  Cham  plain. 

The  largest  and  most  beautiful  river  of  the  Adiron 
dack  region  is  the  Raquette,  rising  in  Raquettc  Lake, 
and  after  a  devious  course  of  120  miles  flowing  into 
the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  mountains  are  covered  with  forests,  whilst  in 
the  lower  lands,  along  the  rivers,  a  dense  growth  of 
evergreens  is  common.  In  these  solitudes  are  found 
the  black  bear,  the  wolf,  the  lynx,  the  wild-cat,  and 
the  wolverine. 

Deer  is  abundant,  also  numerous  smaller  animals, 
and  birds,  and  the  lakes  and  rivers  swarm  with  fish. 

Birmingham  Falls,  caused  by  the  Ausable  River 
flowing  over  the  Alice  Falls,  and  then  descending  a 
line  of  swirling  rapids,  where  it  plunges  over  a  preci 
pice  70  ft.  high  into  a  semicircular  basin,  is  of  great 
beauty.  A  few  rods  further  down  are  the  Horse 
shoe  Falls,  near  which  the  gorge  is  entered  from 
above  by  a  stairway  of  166  steps  leading  down 
a  cleft  in  the  rock.  Below  this  the  stream  grows 
narrower  and  deeper,  and  rushes  through  Ausable 
Chasm,  where  at  the  narrowest  point  a  wedged  bowlder 
cramps  the  channel  to  the  width  of  6  or  8  ft.  Still 


—  333  — 

lower  down  the  walls  stand  about  50  ft.  apart  and  are 
more  than  100  ft.  high,  descending  to  the  water's  edge 
in  a  sheer  perpendicular  line.  The  chasm  is  nearly 
2  miles  long  and  offers  very  striking  and  beautiful 
effects. 

The  Upper  Saranac  Lake,  the  largest  and  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  of  the  Adirondack  lakes,  is  8  miles 
long  and  from  1  to  3  miles  wide,  and  its  surface  is 
studded  with  little  islands. 

To  describe  all  the  beautiful  spots  in  the  Adiron- 
dacks  would  fill  volumes. 

Lake  George  is  a  picturesque  sheet  of  water  in 
Warren  and  Washington  Counties,  in  New  York  State. 
It  is  33  miles  long,  and  from  f  of  a  mile  to  4  miles 
wide.  It  is  the  most  famous  and  most  frequented  of 
American  lakes.  The  scenery  of  its  banks  is  admir 
ably  pretty,  and  the  lake  is  bordered  on  either  side  by 
high  hills  crowned  with  woods,  etc.  It  empties  into 
Lake  Champlain,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a 
narrow  ridge  only  4  miles  wide.  The  Indian  name  of 
Lake  George  was  "Horicon,"  meaning  "  silvery 
waters ; "  when  the  French  discovered  it,  early  in  the 
17th  century,  they  named  it  "Le  Lac  du  St.  Sacra 
ment,"  but  its  English  conquerors  called  it  after  King 
George  II.,  then  on  the  throne. 

Lake  George  fills  a  conspicuous  and  romantic  place 
in  American  history.  In  the  French  and  Indian  War 
it  was  repeatedly  occupied  by  large  armies,  and  was 
the  scene  of  several  battles.  In  an  engagement  near 
the  S.  end  of  the  Lake,  September  8?  1755,  between 


—  334  — 

the  French  and  English,  Colonel  Williams  of  Massa 
chusetts,  the  founder  of  Williams  College,  was  killed, 
Baron  Dieskau,  the  French  commander,  severely 
wounded,  and  the  French  totally  defeated. 

In  1757,  Fort  William  Henry,  at  the  same  end  of 
the  lake,  was  besieged  by  the  French  General  Mont- 
calm,  at  the  head  of  8,000  men.  The  garrison  capitu 
lated  after  a  gallant  defense,  and  were  barbarously 
massacred  by  the  Indian  allies  of  the  French.  In  July, 
1758,  the  army  of  General  Abercrombie,  about  15,000 
strong,  passed  up  the  lake  in  1,000  boats,  and  made  an 
unsuccessful  attack  on  Ticonderoga.  A  year  latter, 
July,  1759,  General  Amherst,  with  an  almost  equal 
force,  also  traversed  the  lake,  and  took  Ticonderoga 
and  Crown  Point.  The  head  of  Lake  George  was 
the  depot  for  the  stores  of  the  army  of  General  Bur- 
goyne  before  he  began  his  march  to  Saratoga. 

The  most  interesting  points  on  the  route  to  Lake 
George  are  Glens  Falls,  on  the  Hudson  river,  at  a  fine 
cataract  50  ft.  high,  and  Caldwell,  near  the  ruins  of 
old  Fort  George. 

The  nearest  island  to  Caldwell  is  Tea  Island, 
bordered  with  picturesque  rocks,  and  a  mile  and  a  half 
beyond  is  Diamond  Island,  so  named  on  account  of  the 
beautiful  quartz-crystals  found  on  it  in  abundance. 
Dome  Island,  richly  wooded,  is  near  the  center  of  the 
widest  part  of  the  lake,  and  there  arc  hundreds  of  other 
strikingly  beautiful  places  in  and  around  Lake  George, 
which  to  describe  is  almost  an  impossibility. 

Lake  Chainplain,  extending  from  Whitehall,  in  the 


—  335  — 

State  of  New  York,  to  St.  John's,  in  Canada,  is  126 
miles  long,  and  varies  in  breadth  from  40  rods  to  12£ 
miles;  containing  upward  of  50  islands  and  islets. 
It  depth  varies  from  54  to  399  ft.,  and  vessels  of  800 
or  1,000  tons  navigate  its  whole  extent.  The  princi 
pal  rivers  entering  the  lake  are  Wood  Creek  at  its 
head;  the  outlet  of  Lake  George,  the  Ausable,  Saranac, 
and  Chazy,  from  Nevy  York;  and  Otter,  Winooski, 
Lamoille,  and  Missisquoi,  from  Vermont.  The  outlet 
of  the  lake  is  the  Sorel  or  Richelieu  River,  sometimes 
called  the  St.  John's,  which  empties  into  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  with  the  Chambly  Canal,  affords  a 
passage  for  vessels  to  the  ocean.  On  the  south  it  com 
municates,  by  means  of  the  Champlain  Canal,  with  the 
Hudson  River  at  Troy.  The  waters  of  the  lake  abound 
with  fish,  and,  filling  a  valley  inclosed  by  high  moun 
tains,  the  lake  is  celebrated  for  its  magnificent  scenery, 
which  embraces  the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont  on 
the  E.  and  the  Adirondack  Mountains  of  New  York  on 
the  W. 

Fort  Ticonderoga  is  a  station  on  the  lake,  at  the  foot 
of  Mount  Defiance.  Ticonderoga  village  is  2  miles  from 
the  steamboat-landing,  and  about  1  mile  to  the  N.,  on 
a  high  hill,  are  the  ruins  oT  the  famous  old  Fort  Ticon 
deroga,  with  fine  views  from  the  crumbling  ramparts, 
though  the  views  from  the  top  of  Mount  Defiance  are 
still  finer.  Mount  Independence  lies  in  Vermont,  and 
Mount  Hope,  an  elevation  about  a  mile  W.  of  Ticon 
deroga,  was  occupied  by  Burgoyne  previous  to  the  re 
capture  of  the  fort  in  1777.  Leaving  the  landing  at 


—  336  — 

Fort  Ticonderoga  the  steamer  runs  to  Shoreham,  on 
the  Vermont  shore,  and  thence  crosses  the  lake  to  the 
village  of  Crown  Point,  with  fine  mountain-views  all 
the  way.  Six  miles  below,  is  the  rugged  promontory 
of  Crown  Point,  which  was  the  site  of  Fort  St.  Frederic, 
erected  by  the  French  in  1731,  and  of  a  much  stronger 
work  subsequently  erected  by  the  English,  the  massive 
ruins  of  which  are  still  plainly  visible.  Fine  views  are 
obtained  from  the  bastions  of  the  old  fort.  Opposite 
Crown  Point,  on  the  Vermont  shore,  is  Chimney  Point. 
Between  them  the  lake  is  very  narrow,  but  opens  out 
above  into  the  broad  BuJwagga  Bay,  on  the  W.  shore 
of  which  is  the  pretty  village  of  Port  Henry,  with  ex 
tensive  iron-works  and  ore-beds.  Just  beyond  Port 
Henry  the  scenery  is  exceedingly  fine.  To  the  E.  the 
Green  Mountains  with  their  lofty  peaks,  Mount  Mans 
field  and  Camel's  Hump,  rise  against  the  distant  horizon  j 
and  on  the  W.  the  Adirondack  Hills  mingle  their  blue 
tops  with  the  clouds. 

Here  also  as  on  the  Lake  George,  the  scenery  is 
wild  romantic  and  the  eye  gets  dazzled  at  the  many 
charmingly  attractive  spots. 

Returned  to  Glens  Falls,  thence  to  Fort  Edward,  I 
reached  Saratoga  Springs,  in  the  State  of  New  York. 
This  is  one  of  the  most  famous  places  of  summer  resort 
in  America  and  is  frequented  by  Americans  from  all 
parts  of  the  country,  and  by  foreign  travelers  from  all 
parts  of  Europe 

The  Mineral  Springs,  which  have  given  the  place 
its  celebrity,  and  the  majestic  trees,  shading  several  of 


—  337  -jp 

its  streets,  are  almost  the  only  natural  attractions.  As 
a  mere  spectacle,  the  brilliancy  of  this  place  during 
the  summer-months,  is  nowhere  excelled  in  the  United 
States. 

There  are  in  all  28  springs  at  Saratoga,  the  most 
popular  of  which  is  the  Congress  Spring.  The  Geyser 
Spring,  on  Ballston  road,  1J  mile  from  Saratoga,  whose 
waters  are  so  highly  charged  with  carbonic-acid  gas 
that  it  foams  and  exhilarates  like  Champagne,  is  very 
frequented. 

Among  buildings  of  interest  at  Saratoga,  are  the 
magnificent  hotels,  the  High-School  Building,  the 
Temple  Grove  Seminary  for  Young  Ladies,  Yates 
Institute  for  Young  Men,  and  the  Central  Fire  De 
partment  Building.  There  are  numerous  fine  private 
residences  and  suburban  drives  in  and  near  Sara 
toga. 

The  Congress  Park  and  the  Boulevard  are  beauti 
ful  places.  The  population  of  Saratoga  is  11,000,  but 
during  the  season  there  are  often  30,000  people  in  the 
place.  The  name  Saratoga,  Indian,  Saraghoga  signi 
fies  "the  place  of  herrings,"  which  formerly  passed  up 
the  Hudson  into  Saratoga  Lake. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  Springs  is  Saratoga  Lake,  a 
beautiful  lake,  8  miles  long  and  2J  wide,  a  favorite  re 
sort. 

Another  pleasant  resort  is  Mount  McGregor,  11 
miles  from  Saratoga,  lying  1,000  ft.  higher  than  the 
Springs,  and  1,200  ft.  above  the  sea,  now  famous  as  the 
death-place  of  General  Grant. 

^  22 


—  338  — 

The  cottage  where  he  died  has  been  ceded  to  the 
State  of  New  York. 

By  way  of  Whitehall,  an  excursion  was  made  to 
Vermont,  via  Eensselaer  and  Saratoga  R.  R.,  and  in  9 
miles  the  train  runs  to  Fairhaven,  where  there  are 
extensive  slate-quarries,  and  one  mile  beyond  is  the 
beautiful  village  of  Hydeville,  at  the  foot  of  Lake 
Bomoseen.  Four  miles  farther  is  Castleton,  a  pretty 
village,  situated  on  a  plain  and  surrounded  by  pleasing 
scenery.  In  the  township  are  extensive  slate-quarries, 
from  which  is  made  an  imitation  of  marble  of  wonder 
ful  perfection.  A  State  Normal  School  is  located  in 
the  village. 

About  seven  miles  from  Castleton  is  West  Rutland, 
noted  for  its  vast  marble-works,  and  in  4  miles  the 
prosperous  town  of  Rutland  is  reached. 

The  town  is  picturesquely  situated,  and  has  12,149 
inhabitants.  It  contains  some  fine  public  and  com 
mercial  buildings,  the  State  Workhouse,  and  the  ex 
tensive  Howe  Scale  Works.  In  the  vicinity  are 
numerous  quarries  and  marble-works.  Seven  miles  E., 
is  Killington  Peak,  3,924  ft.  high,  and  the  view  from 
its  summit  is  very  fine. 

Brandon,  a  manufacturing  village  of  3,500  in 
habitants,  with  marble-quarries,  large  deposits  of  ex 
cellent  bog  iron-ore,  and  several  factories  where 
mineral  paint  is  made  from  kaolin-mines  in  the  vicinity, 
is  L7  miles  from  Rutland.  The  beautiful  mountain- 
lake,  Lake  Dunmore,  nestles  at  the  foot  of  the  loftiest 
range  of  the  Green  mountains. 


—  339  — 

Middlebury,  situated  on  Otter  Creek,  at  some  fine 
falls  in  that  stream,  has  a  population  of  about  3,000. 
and  is  distinguished  as  the  seat  of  Middlebury  College, 
founded  in  1800.  There  is  a  library  in  that  handsome- 
built  village,  containing  14,000  volumes  and  a  small 
natural  history  collection.  Fourteen  miles  beyond 
Middlebury  is  Vergennes,  the  oldest  city  in  Vermont, 
and  one  of  the  smallest  in  the  Union,  with  a  population 
of  little  more  than  1,500.  It  is  situated  on  Otter 
Creek,  8  miles  from  Lake  Champlain,  and  near  the 
Falls,  which  have  a  descent  of  37  feet.  Commodore 
McDonough's  fleet,  which  won  the  naval  battle  of 
Lake  Champlain,  September  11,  1814,  was  fitted  out 
at  Vergennes. 

The  last  place  visited  in  the  State  of  Vermont  was 
Burlington,  the  largest  city  in  the  State,  finely  situated 
upon  the  eastern  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  on  a  ground 
gradually  rising  from  the  water  to  a  height  of  367  ft. 
It  was  first  permanently  settled  in  1783.  In  1885  the 
population  amounted  to  13,500,  and  it  has  some  of  the 
largest  mills  in  the  country  for  planing  and  dressing 
lumber,  and  extensive  factories  of  articles  of  wood, 
such  as  doors,  packing-boxes,  spools,  etc.,  and  of 
cotton  and  marble.  The  city  is  beautifully  built,  and 
several  of  the  churches  are  superb  architectures,  as 
are  also  most  of  its  public  buildings.  The  Fletcher 
Library  contains  18,000  volumes.  The  University  of 
Vermont,  incorporated  in  1791,  organized  in  1800,  is 
open  to  both  sexes  5  its  corner-stone  was  laid  by 
Lafayette  in  1825.  The  State  Agricultural  College  was 


—  340  — 

united  with  it  in  1825.  It  lias  a  library  of  27,000 
volumes,  and  a  museum  containing  upward  of  50,000 
specimens  in  natural  history.  The  Billlings  Library 
given  to  the  College  at  a  cost  of  $100,000,  contains  the 
collection  belonging  to  the  late  Geo.  P.  Marsh,  and  is 
the  best  collection  of  books  in  the  nothcrn  languages  in 
the  world.  The  Mary  Fletcher  Hospital,  from  the  top  of 
which  the  finest  lake-view  in  America  is  obtained,  is  an 
admirably  beautiful  building.  Lake  View  Cemetery, 
on  the  shore  of  the  lake,  is  one  of  the  finest  •  in  the 
State,  and  in  Green  Mount  Cemetery  lie  the  remains  of 
Ethan  Allen,  under  a  granite  shaft  42  ft.  high,  sur 
mounted  by  a  marble  statue  of  the  old  hero. 

The  Depot  of  the  Vermont  Central  It.  R.  is  an 
extensive  building,  and  the  Court  House,  Custom 
House  and  Post-Office,  and  the  City  Hall  and  Opera 
House  are  very  handsome.  Other  buildings  of  interest 
are  the  Lake  View  Eetreat  (a  private  insane  asylum), 
and  the  Providence  Orphan  Asylum  (Roman  Catho 
lic). 

The  "  Green  Mountain  State,"  State  of  Vermont, 
was  first  settled  by  Massachusetts  emigrants  near 
Battleboro,  1724;  admitted,  1791.  Vermont  was  the 
first  State  to  join  the  original  13  States. 

Area,  9,565  square  miles;  length,  150  miles; 
breadth,  35  to  50  miles.  Lake  Champlain  frontage, 
over  100  miles ;  Burlington  the  chief  harbor. 

Temperature  at  Burlington:  winter,  18°  to  33° ; 
summer,  66°  to  71°.  Rainfall,  34  inches. 

Death  rate,  only  1.07  per  cent,  per  annum. 


—  341  — 

Montpellier,  capital,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
Winooski  river,  in  a  narrow  valley  surrounded  by 
hills.  Its  population  is  4,000,  and  in  the  portico  of  its 
beautiful  Capitol  is  a  marble  statue  of  Ethan  Allen. 
In  the  building  is  the  State  Library,  containing  15,000 
volumes,  and  the  historical  and  geological  cabinets,  and 
the  flags  carried  by  the  Vermont  volunteers  during  the 
civil  war. 

Population  of  Bennington,  6,333,  and  of  St.  Albans, 
7,193. 

Number  of  farms,  35,522.  Average  value  per  acre, 
cleared  land,  $17.73;  woodland,  $15.28.  Mineral 
wealth  of  great  value,  manganese,  copper  pyrites,  iron 
ore,  and  gold  deposits  have  been  found.  Black,  white, 
red,  and  variegated  marbles  are  abundant;  annual 
value  of  marble,  over  $3,000,000,  and  of  slate,  about 
$1,000,000. 

Number  of  different  industries,  2,874,  giving  em 
ployment  to  17,540  persons.  Number  of  butter  and 
cheese  establishments,  85;  flour  and  grist,  227; 
furniture,  56 ;  leather  tanning,  53 ;  lumber  sawing, 
688 ;  marble  and  stone  work,  69 ;  wares  of  tin,  sheet- 
iron  and  copper,  95. 

Population:  332,286,  incl.  1,057  Colored  and  11 
Indians. 

Number  of  Colleges,  2;  school  population,  99,463; 
school  age,  5-20. 

Devoting  my  time  to  a  repeated  exploration  of  the 
State  of  New  York,  the  city  of  Schenectady,  17  miles 
from  the  capital  of  New  York  State,  was  begun  with. 


—  342  — 

Schenectady  is  a  city  of  13,675  inhabitants,  situ 
ated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mohawk  River,  on  a 
spot  which  once  formed  the  council-grounds  of  the  Mo 
hawks.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  State,  a 
trading-post  having  been  established  here  by  the 
Dutch  in  1620,  and  is  distinguished  as  the  seat  of 
Union  College,  founded  in  1 795  and  now  a  famous  in 
stitution. 

Leaving  Schenectady,  the  train  crosses  the  Mohawk 
River  and  the  Erie  Canal  on  a  bridge  nearly  1,000  ft. 
long,  and  traverses  a  rich  farming  country  to  Amster 
dam,  and  in  1 1  miles  to  Fonda. 

Sharon  Springs  is  reached  from  the  latter  place  by 
stage.  Situated  in  a  narrow  valley  surrounded  by 
high  hills,  the  village  of  Sharon  Springs  in  Schoharie 
County,  New  York,  is  chiefly  noted  for  its  mineral 
springs,  of  which  there  are  4  ;  chalybeate,  magnesia, 
white  sulphur,  and  blue  sulphur.  The  Magnesia  and 
White  Sulphur  Springs  resemble  the  White  Sulphur 
Springs  of  Virginia.  Though  the  waters  are  drunk  to 
a  considerable  extent,  the  specialty  of  the  place  is  its 
baths.  Besides  the  water-baths,  mud-baths  are  ad 
ministered.  The  drives  arid  rambles  are  very  pleasant 
and  from  the  summit  of  the  hill  over  the  village,  a 
beautiful  view  is  obtained,  including  the  Mohawk 
Valley,  the  Adirondacks,  and  the  Green  Mountains  of 
Vermont. 

Little  Falls,  which  is  remarkable  for  a  bold  pas 
sage  of  the  river  and  canal  through  a  wild  and  most 
picturesque  defile  5  and  the  already  described  beautiful 


city  of  Utica,  the  great  railroad  and  canal  center  and 
where  there  is  located  the  State  Insane  Asylum;  and  Tren 
ton  Falls,  on  the  W.  Canada  Creek,  a  tributary  of  the 
Mohawk,  whose  descent  is  312  ft.  in  a  distance  of  2 
miles  by  a  series  of  beautiful  cataracts,  have  to  be 
passed  before  Oneida  Lake  is  reached.  Chittenango 
and  Syracuse  are  on  the  line  on  which,  in  17  miles, 
the  charming  Lake  Skaneateles  is  reached.  The  lake 
is  16  miles  long,  from  1  to  1J  miles  wide;  860  ft. 
above  the  sea,  and  is  surrounded  by  hills  rising  1,200 
ft.  above  the  surface.  Eight  miles  farther  on  is  the  hand 
some  city  of  Auburn,  with  21,924  inhabitants,  situated 
near  Owasco  Lake,  which  finds  its  outlet  through  the 
town. 

Auburn  State  Prison  covers  18  acres  of  ground. 
The  city  was  long  the  home  of  the  late  Wm.  H.  Se- 
ward,  and  his  grave  is  in  the  pleasant  cemetery  on 
Fort  Hill.  The  County  Court  House,  the  Theological 
Seminary,  and  the  Churches  of  St.  Peter  (Epicopal), 
St.  Mary's  (Rom.  Cath.),  and  the  First  Presbyterian 
are  exceedingly  fine  edifices.  Owasco  Lake,  3  miles 
from  Auburn,  is  a  summer  resort,  and  Cayuga  Lake,  8 
miles  from  the  former  lake,  is  38  miles  long,  and 
from  1  to  3J  wide.  At  the  S.  end  lies  Ithaka,  one  of 
the  loveliest  cities  in  the  State,  noted  as  the  seat  of 
Cornell  University,  and  surrounded  by  the  most 
charming  and  romantic  scenery.  Founded  in  1865, 
this  institution  has  already  become  one  of  the  leading 
educational  establishments  of  the  country.  There  are 
a  series  of  cascades  and  waterfalls  in  its  vicinity,  vary- 


—  344  — 

ing  from  30  to  160  ft.  in  height.  The  beautiful 
Ithaka  Fall,  150  ft.  broad  and  160  ft.  high,  is  about  a 
mile  distant  in  Ithaka  Gorge,  said  to  contain  more 
waterfalls  within  the  space  of  a  mile  than  any  other 
place  in  America. 

The  celebrated  Taghkanic  Falls  are  10  miles  from 
Ithaka.  The  Taghkanic  Creek  flows  through  a  com 
paratively  level  country  until  it  encounters  a  rocky 
ledge  lying  directly  across  its  course,  and  then  the 
waters  fall  perpendicularly  through  a  chasm,  which  the 
stream  has  succeeded  in  excavating  215  ft,  into  the 
rocky  basin,  forming  a  cataract  more  than  50  ft.  higher 
than  the  Niagara.  Five  miles  beyond  Cayuga  is  the 
manufacturing  village  of  Seneca  Falls,  and  10  miles 
farther  is  the  Academic  City  of  Geneva,  beautifully 
situated  at  the  foot  of  Seneca  Lake,  noted  for  its  educa 
tional  institutions,  of  which  Hobart  College  (Episco 
pal),  is  the  most  important.  Seneca  Lake,  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  enchanting  in  the  State,  is  35  miles 
long  and  1  to  4  miles  wide,  is  very  deep  and  never 
freezes  over. 

Fatigued  from  my  last,  rather  long  lasting  journeys, 
I  proceeded  to  New  York  city,  only  to  start  anew  after 
a  short  rest  and  thus  terminate  my  explorations  in  the 
State  of  New  York,  and  in  the  United  States  in  gene 
ral. 

West  Point  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  places  on 
the  Hudson  River.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  National 
Military  Academy.  The  most  noteworthy  of  the 
buildings  are  the  Barracks  of  the  Cadets,  the  Academic 


—  345  — 

Building,  the  library ,  containing  26,000  volumes,  and 
in  which  is  the  Observatory  and  the  Mess  Hall. 

The  Museum  of  Ordnance  and  Trophies,  and  the 
Chapel  are  interesting.  The  Parade-Ground  is  very 
spacious,  beautifully  laid  out  and  contains  several  fine 
monuments. 

Fort  Putnam,  on  Mount  Independence,  600  ft. 
above  the  river,  is  not  far  from  here,  and  from  the 
crumbling  walls  of  the  Fort  excellent  views  are  ob 
tained. 

New  York  City,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the 
United  States,  and  largest  city  of  the  Western  Hemis 
phere,  is  situated  on  New  York  Bay,  in  latitude  41° 
N.  and  longitude  71°  W.  from  Greenwich,  at  the  junc 
tion  of  the  Hudson  or  North  River,  and  of  the  East 
River.  It  occupies  the  entire  surface  of  Manhattan 
Island;  Randall's,  Ward's,  and  Black  well's  Islands  in 
the  East  River;  Bedloe's,  Ellis's,  and  Governor's  Is 
lands  in  the  Bay,  used  by  the  U.  S.  Government;  and 
a  portion  of  the  mainland,  annexed  from  Westchester 
County,  north  of  Manhattan  Island  and  separated  from 
it  by  Harlem  River  and  Spuyten  Duyvel  Creek.  The 
harbor  of  New  York  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  pictu 
resque  in  the  world.  The  outer  bar  is  at  Sandy  Hook, 
and  is  crossed  by  2  ship-channels.  The  villa-crowned 
shores  of  Staten  and  Long  Islands,  the  massive  battle 
ments  of  Fort  Wadsworth  and  Fort  Tompkins,  and  on 
the  Long  Island  shore,  Fort  Hamilton  and  old  Fort 
Lafayette,  famous  as  a  political  prison;  Bedloes  Island 
with  the  colossal  statue  of  Liberty  which  France  has 


—  346  — 

presented  to  the  City  of  New  York,  and  Governor's 
Island  with  Castle  William  and  old  Fort  Columbus,  lie 
majestically  on  both  sides  of  the  bay  and  harbor,  a 
panorama  of  phenomenal  beauty  and  grandeur. 

The  site  of  New  York  is  said  to  have  been  dis 
covered  by  Verazzani,  a  Florentine  mariner,  in  1524; 
but  authentic  history  begins  with  the  visit  of  Henry 
Hudson,  an  Englishman  in  the  service  of  the  Dutch 
East  India  Company,  who  arrived  there  September  3, 
1609,  Hudson  afterward  ascended  the  river  as  far  as 
the  site  of  Albany,  and  claimed  the  land  by  right  of  dis 
covery  as  an  appanage  of  Holland.  In  1614  a  Dutch 
colony  came  over  and  began  a  settlement.  At  the  close 
of  the  year  the  future  metropolis  consisted  of  a  small 
fort  and  four  houses  and  was  known  as  New  Amsterdam. 
As  late  as  1648  it  contained  but  1,000  inhabitants.  In 
1684  it  was  surrendered  to  the  British,  and  passing 
into  the  hands  of  the  Duke  of  York,  was  thenceforward 
called  New  York.  In  1667  the  city  contained  384 
houses.  In  1670  the  population  had  increased  to  about 
6,000.  In  1696  Trinity  Church  was  founded.  In  1711 
a  slave-market  was  established  in  Wall  Street ;  and  in 
1725  the  New  York  Gazette  was  started.  The  Ame 
rican  army  under  Washington  occupied  the  city  in 
1776  ;  but  after  the  battles  of  Long  Island  and  Harlem 
Heights,  it  was  captured  by  the  British  forces,  and 
remained  their  headquarters  for  7  years.  The  British 
troops  evacuated  the  city  November  25,  1 783.  Within 
ten  years  after  the  War  of  Independence,  New  York 
has  doubled  its  population.  In  1807  the  first  steamboat 


—  347  — 

was  put  on  the  Hudson  ;  the  completion  of  the  Erie 
Canal  followed  in  1825,  and  since  that  time  the  growth 
of  the  city  has  been  rapid.  Its  population  in  1800  was 
60,489,  it  was  812,869  in  1860  and  in  1880,  1,206,590. 
Commerce  and  industry  have  kept  pace  with  the  pop 
ulation.  More  than  half  the  foreign  commerce  of  the 
United  States  is  carried  on  through  the  customs  district 
of  which  this  is  the  port,  and  about  two-thirds  of  the 
duties  are  here  collected.  In  1883  the  exports  from 
this  port  were  of  the  value  of  $361,425,361,  and  the 
imports  $496,005,276.  The  manufactures  of  New  York, 
though  secondary  in  importance  to  its  commercial  and 
mercantile  interests,  are  varied  and  extensive.  In  the 
value  of  products,  according  to  the  census  of  1880,  it 
was  the  first  city  in  the  Union,  though  surpassed  by 
Philadelphia  in  the  value  of  materials  used,  amount  of 
capital  invested,  and  number  of  establishments.  The 
whole  number  of  manufacturing  establishments  in  1880 
was  11,162,  employing  200,000  hands,  and  producing 
goods  valued  at  $448,209,248. 

The  principal  churches  in  the  city  are  Trinity 
Church  with  the  Astor  Memorial  Reredos  in  the 
chancel,  one  of  the  richest  and  costliest  in  the  world 
(the  Trinity  Parish  is  the  oldest  in  the  city);  St.  PauFs 
Church ;  Grace  Church  ;  St.  Paul's  Methodist ;  St. 
George's  Episcopal  5  the  Jewish  Temple  Emanuel ;  and 
the  Roman  Cathedral  of  St.  Patrick. 

Of  the  numerous  public  buildings  the  following 
deserve  special  mention :  the  U.  S.  Sub-Treasury,  the 
site  of  old  Federal  Hall  where  Washington  delivered 


—  348  — 

his  first  address  as  President,  (the  bronze  statue  of 
Washington  on  the  entrance  was  erected  here  in  No 
vember  1883) ;  the  U.  S.  Custom  House,  the  new  Post- 
Office,  the  new  Court  House,  the  City  Hall,  etc. 

Among  the  numerous  educational  institutions  of 
New  York  the  most  prominent  are  the  University  of 
the  City  of  New  York,  Bellevue  Medical  College,  Col 
lege  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons,  Columbia  College, 
the  oldest  in  the  State,  having  been  chartered  in  1754  ; 
the  Normal  College,  the  College  of  Pharmacy,  Hom 
oeopathic  College,  Cooper  Institute,  founded  and 
endowed  by  the  late  Peter  Cooper,  a  wealthy  and  phi 
lanthropic  merchant,  containing  a  free  library,  free 
schools  of  art  and  telegraphy  for  women,  a  free  night- 
school  of  art  for  men,  a  free  night-school  of  science  for 
both  sexes,  and  free  lectures  5  the  Bible  House,  head' 
quarters  of  the  American  Bible  Society,  next  to  the 
British  the  largest  in  the  world  j  the  Mining  Academy  • 
the  Astor  Library,  containing  250,000  volumes  ;  the 
City  Library  ;  Mercantile  Library  ;  New  York  Free 
Circulating  Library  j  the  Library  of  the  Historical 
Society  ;  the  Geographical  Society's  valuable  series  of 
maps,  specimens,  etc.;  the  Harlem  Library ;  and  sev 
eral  Colleges  of  Dentistry. 

The  National  Academy  of  Design ;  the  Metropol 
itan  Museum  of  Art,  containing  the  famous  Cesnola 
Collection  of  Cypriote  Antiquities  5  the  Abbott  Collec 
tion  of  Egyptian  Antiquities  and  the  Lenox  Collection 
of  Nineveh  Sculptures  both  in  the  Historical  Society's 
Building  5  the  American  Art  Gallery  and  numerous 


—  349  — 

private  Galleries  and  Collections  rank  among  the  first 
in  the  country. 

The  Battery,  a  pretty  little  park  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  city,  looking  out  upon  the  Bay,  was 
the  site  of  a  fort  in  the  early  years  of  the  city,  being 
then  the  fashionable  quarter.  At  the  S.  W.  end  is 
Castle  Garden,  a  depot  for  immigrants,  and  at  the 
S.  end  stands  the  handsome  granite  U.  S.  Barge-Office. 
Just  north  of  the  Battery,  at  the  foot  of  Broadway,  is 
Bowling  Green,  the  cradle  of  New  York,  it  was  the 
court  end  of  the  town  in  the  times  of  the  Dutch. 

The  Business  Buildings  of  New  York  have  no 
where  in  the  world  their  equal;  some  of  them  are 
palatial  structures.  I  mention  only  a  few:  The  Pro 
duce  Exchange,  Standard  Oil,  Stock  Exchange,  the 
Equitable  Life  Insurance  Company's,  Western  Union 
Telegraph  Company's,  the  Boreel  Building,  Wells, 
Stewart  Buildings,  Union  Bank  Building,  Manhattan 
Company's,  the  United  Bank  Building,  the  Drexel  and 
Mills  Buildings  and  thousands  of  others  are  to  be  found 
in  the  business  quarters  of  the  city. 

The  Buildings  of  the  leading  Newspapers  are  also 
of  colossal  dimensions  and  the  following  are  the  most 
prominent : 

Tribune,  World,  Herald,  Staats-Zeitung,  Sun,  Times, 
Puck,  and  Post. 

The  Broadway  is  one  of  the  finest,  if  not  the  finest 
thoroughfare  in  the  world,  and  the  elegant  Avenues  in 
New  York  have  no  rivals,  and  are  intersected  by  lovely 
parks.  Of  monuments  and  statues,  which  are  nun?er- 


—  350  — 

ous  in  New  York,  those  at  the  Union  Square,  of 
Washington's  bronze  equestrian  statue,  the  bronze 
statue  of  Lafayette,  and  the  bronze  statue  of  Lincoln 
are  of  extraordinary  beauty.  On  Madison  Square, 
another  pretty  little  park,  is  the  bronze  statue  of 
Admiral  Farragut,  the  monument  to  General  Worth,  and 
the  bronze  statue  of  Seward. 

The  Masonic  Temple  is  a  spacious  and  pretty 
building,  and  there  is  an  abundance  of  Opera-Houses, 
Theatres  and  other  places  of  amusement  in  the  city. 
The  principal  Clubs  in  New  York  are  the  Century, 
Knickerbocker,  Manhattan,  Union,  Union  League,  the 
Lotos,  Army  and  Navy,  St.  Nicholas,  the  University 
Club,  and  the  Athletic. 

Of  the  many  musical  and  singing  societies  of  New 
York  City,  the  "  Liederkranz "  is  the  most  celebrated 
in  the  country,  its  President  (since  many  years)  is  the 
well-known  Mr.  Steinway,  the  manufacturer  of  the 
world  -famed  Stein  way-pianos. 

There  are  comparatively  more  charitable  institutions 
in  New  York  than  in  any  other  place  in  the  world; 
suffice  to  mention  a  few  of  the  most  important,  viz.: 
the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institution,  the  buildings  which 
are  the  largest  and  finest  of  the  kind  in  the  world  j  the 
Bloomirigdale  Asylum  for  the  Insane ;  several  Orphan 
Asylums,  among  which  the  Hebrew  Orphan  Asylum  is 
the  finest  in  the  Union;  the  Bellevue  Hospital,  the  larg 
est  in  the  city;  the  Foundling  Asylum;  and  the  Five 
Points  House  of  Industry  and  Mission;  the  Howard 
Mission ;  and  on  Blackwell's  Island,  120  acres  in  ex- 


—  351  — 

tent:  the  Alms-house,  Female  Lunatic  Asylum,  Blind 
Asylum,  Charity,  Small-pox  and  Typhus-Fever  Hospi 
tals;  also  the  Hospital  for  Incurables,  and  Convales 
cent  Hospital;  on  Ward's  Island:  the  Lunatic  Asylum 
for  Males,  the  Emigrant  Hospital,  and  the  Inebriate 
Asylum;  and  on  Randall's  Island:  the  Idiot  Asylum, 
the  House  of  Refuge,  the  Infant  Hospital,  Nurseries 
and  other  charities  provided  by  the  city  for  destitute 
children.  Besides  these,  there  are  numerous  Homes 
and  other  Institutions  for  Indigents  of  both  sexes  in  the 
city. 

The  pride  of  New  York  is  the  Central  Park.  It  is 
one  of  the  finest  parks  in  the  world,  embracing  843 
acres  and  in  it  are  the  two  large  Croton  Reservoirs.  The 
Mall  in  the  Park  is  the  principal  promenade;  it  is  a 
magnificent  esplanade  and  at  various  points  are  fine 
life-size  bronze  statues  of  Shakespeare,  Scott,  Morse, 
Goethe,  Halleck,  Daniel  Webster,  and  among  the 
bronze  busts,  the  bust  of  Humboldt.  The  Zoological 
Gardens,  or  Menagerie,  in  the  Park  contains  interesting 
collections  of  animals,  birds,  and  reptiles,  etc.,  and 
opposite  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  is  the  Egyp 
tian  Obelisk  (the  Needle  of  Cleopatra),  one  of  the  most 
ancient  of  the  world's  monuments.  Originally  hewn 
and  inscribed  by  Thothmes  III.,  one  of  the  sides  is 
also  inscribed  with  the  victory  of  Rameses  or  Ramses 
II.  (a  contemporary  of  Moses),  who  lived  three  centuries 
afterward.  It  was  presented  to  the  City  of  New  York 
by  the  late  Khedive,  and  brought  to  this  country  at  the 
expense  of  the  late  W.  H.  Vanderbilt.  Adjoining  the 


—  352  — 

Park  is  the  American  Museum  of  Natural  History,  con 
taining  Indian  antiquities,  minerals,  shells,  and  stuffed 
and  mounted  specimens  of  birds,  fishes,  quadrupeds, 
insects,  etc. 

Riverside  Park,  within  the  city  limits,  is  the  bury- 
ing-place  of  General  Grant. 

The  great  East  River  or  Brooklyn  Bridge,  is  the 
largest  suspension-bridge  in  the  world  and  is  5,989  ft. 
long.  Its  width  is  85  ft.,  which  includes  a  promenade 
for  foot-passengers,  2  railroad-tracks  on  which  run 
steam  passenger-cars,  and  two  roadways  for  vehicles. 
This  stupendous  triumph  of  engineering  was  planned  by 
Colonel  John  A.  Roebling  and  completed  under  the 
charge  of  his  son,  Washington  Roebling.  It  was 
thirteen  years  constructing,  and  cost  about  $15,000,- 
000. 

The  elevated  Rail  Roads  in  New  York,  four  distinct 
lines,  running  almost  parallel  and  traversing  the  city, 
are  among  the  wonders  of  the  city. 

The  new  Aqueduct  in  course  of  erection  is  one  of 
the  most  gigantic  structures  of  its  kind.  In  High 
Bridge,  the  Croton  Aqueduct  is  carried  across  Harlem 
River  in  a  length  of  1,450  ft.  This  noble  structure  is 
well  worth  seeing. 

Of  the  City  Prisons,  the  Tombs,  a  massive,  granite, 
sombre  looking  building  in  the  Egyptian  style,  and  of 
a  shape  resembling  ancient  Egyptian  tombs,  is  un 
doubtedly  a  unique. 

The  Penitentiary  and  Workhouse  are  on  BlackwelPs 
Island. 


- 353    „,, 

•  •, 

New  York  is  one  of  the  greatest  Rail  Road  Cen 
ters  in  the  world  and  the  Grand  Central  Depot  one  of 
the  finest  and  largest  in  the  United  States. 

Staten  Island,  the  largest  island  in  the  harbor,  has 
an  area  of  58  J  square  miles  5  it  is  separated  from  New 
Jersey  by  Staten  Island  Sound  and  the  Kill  Van  Kull, 
and  from  Long  Island  by  the  Narrows.  From  the 
heights  there  are  broad  views  over  harbor  and  ocean. 
New  Brighton  is  the  largest  village  on  the  island. 

The  most  popular  of  all  the  resorts  near  New 
York  is  Coney  Island,  just  outside  the  entrance  of 
New  York  Bay,  and  consists  of  a  very  narrow  island, 
4J  miles  long,  with  a  gently  sloping  beach,  affording 
unsurpassed  facilities  for  sea-bathing.  It  is  a  part  of 
the  town  of  Gravesend  and  is  separated  from  the 
mainland  by  Gravesend  Bay  and  Coney  Island  Creeks 
on  the  north,  and  has  the  broad  Atlantic  for  its  south 
ern  boundary.  The  island  is  divided  into  4  parts 
known  as  Coney  Island  Point,  or  Norton's  at  the 
west  end,  West  Brighton  Beach,  and  Manhattan  Beach 
at  the  east  end.  From  the  Observatory  in  Coney  Is 
land  an  extensive  view  is  obtained.  The  drives  are 
superb,  especially  on  the  Ocean  Parkway. 

Rockaway  Beach  and  Long  Beach  are  likewise 
excellent  sea-bathing  resorts,  and  the  colossal  tubular 
Iron  Pier  in  Rockaway  Beach  is  well  worth  seeing. 

The  other  great  summer  resort  in  the  vicinity  oi 
New  York  is  Long  Branch,  on  the  Jersey  shore  of  the 
Atlantic,  where  an  extensive  beach  affords  excellent 
facilities  for  bathing. 

23 


—  354  — 

The  Beach  Drive  on  which  the  superb  villas  of  the 
Wealthy  are  situated  is  an  elegant  road.  The  place  is 
very  attractive  and  is  the  Rendez-vous  of  the  better 
situated  class. 

Opposite  New  York,  just  across  the  river,  at  the 
W.  end  of  Long  Island,  lies  the  third  largest  city  in  the 
United  States,  Brooklyn.  On  the  heights  back  of  the 
city  the  battle  of  Long  Island  was  fought,  on  August 
26,  1776,  and  the  Americans  defeated  with  a  loss  of 
2,000  out  of  5,000  men. 

In  1800,  the  population  of  Brooklyn  was  3,298, 
and  in  1880,  566,689. 

Brooklyn  was  settled  in  1 625,  near  Wallabout  Bay, 
by  a  band  of  Walloons. 

The  city  is  exceedingly  pretty,  most  of  the  streets 
aborned  with  shade-trees. 

Its  public  buildings  and  private  residences  are  of 
great  beauty  and  the  commerce  large.  The  City  Hall, 
County  Court  House,  Municipal  Building,  and  Post 
Office  are  spacious  and  elegant  structures.  The  Long 
Island  Historical  Society  contains  a  valuable  library 
and  many  curious  relics.  The  Academy  of  Design, 
and  the  Academy  of  Music  are  highly  ornated  build 
ings.  The  Long  Island  College  Hospital,  the  Mer 
cantile  Library,  with  60,000  volumes  ;  and  several  of 
the  theatres  are  noteworthy.  Of  the  many  churches, 
the  following  deserve  special  mention :  the  beautiful 
Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity  (Episcopal),  Plymouth 
Church  (formerly  the  church  of  the  late  Henry  Ward 
Beecher) ;  the  Tabernacle  (of  the  famous  orator  Rev. 


—  355  — 

Talmadge),  the  largest  Protestant  church  in  America  5 
the  Congregational  Church  of  the  Pilgrims  (R.  S. 
Storrs,  Pastor);  and  the  Presbyterian  Church  (Dr.Cuyler). 

The  County  Jail  and  the  Penitentiary  are  castella 
ted,  immense  stone  piles. 

The  Atlantic  Dock  has  a  basin  which  covers  an  area 
of  42  J  acres  and  is  surrounded  by  piers  of  solid  gran 
ite,  on  which  are  spacious  ware-houses.  Prospect 
Park  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  America.  It  con 
tains  550  acres,  lies  on  an  elevated  ridge,  and  com 
mands  magnificent  views  of  the  two  cities,  of  the  inner 
and  outer  harbor,  Long  Island,  the  Jersey  shore,  and 
the  Atlantic.  In  the  center  is  a  fine  fountain  and  a 
bronze  statue  of  President  Lincoln.  It  is  beautifully 
shaded,  has  splendid  drives,  and  was  the  site  of  exten 
sive  fortifications  during  the  Revolutionary  War. 

The  U.  S.  Navy  Yard  is  the  chief  naval  station 
of  the  Republic  and  contains  45  acres. 

The  trophies  and  relics  preserved  here  are  of  great 
interest. 

Greenwood  Cemetery  is  the  most  beautiful  in  the 
world.  It  contains  upward  of  500  acres  tastefully  laid 
out.  The  grounds  are  traversed  by  19  miles  of  car 
riage-roads  and  17  miles  of  footpaths  and  there  are 
many  beautiful  monuments. 

The  "Empire  or  Excelsior  State,"  the  State  of 
New  York  is  one  of  the  13  original  States;  named  in 
honor  of  the  Duke  of  York  to  whom  the  patent  was 
granted;  first  settled  by  the  Dutch,  on  Manhattan 
Island,  1614. 


—  356  — 

Area,  49,170  square  miles;  extreme  length,  east 
and  west,  412  miles;  extreme  breadth,  311  miles; 
two-thirds  of  boundaries  formed  by  navigable  rivers; 
total  water  frontage,  880  miles. 

Temperature  at  Albany:  winter,  22°  to  36°;  sum 
mer,  67°  to  73°.  Rainfall  at  Buffalo,  34  inches,  and 
at  Perm  Yan,  28  inches. 

First  railroad,  from  Albany  to  Schenectady,  1831; 
present  railroad  mileage,  7,349  ;  artificial  water-ways, 
907  miles. 

Number  of  farms,  241,058;  average  value  per  acre, 
cleared  land,  $58.48;  woodland,  $40.88.  Ranks  first 
in  value  of  manufactures,  soap,  printing  and  publish 
ing,  hops,  hay,  potatoes,  buckwheat  and  milk  cows; 
second  in  salt,  silk  goods,  malt  and  distiUed  liquors, 
miles  railway  and  barley. 

Population,  5,082,871,  incl.  65,104  Colored,  909 
Chinese  and  819  Indians. 

Number  of  colleges,  28 ;  school  population  1,681,- 
101 ;  school  age,  5-21. 


The  United  States,  a  Republic  occupying  the  cen 
tral  portion  of  North  America,  together  with  Alaska, 
in  the  extreme  northwest,  contain  38  States  and  10 
Territories. 

Area  land  surface,  3,547,000  square  miles;  great 
est  length,  east  and  west,  about  2,800  miles;  average 
breadth,  about  1,200  miles;  British  American  bound 
ary;  3,540  miles;  Mexican,  1,550;  coast  line,  exclu- 


—  357  — 

sivc  of  land  indentations,  5,715  miles;  lake  shore  line, 
3,450. 

New  York  ranks  first  in  population;  Pennsylvania, 
second;  Ohio,  third;  Illinois,  fourth. 

New  York  City,  metropolis  of  the  Republic ;  Phila 
delphia  ranks  second ;  Brooklyn,  third ;  Chicago, 
fourth.  Washington,  capital. 

Railway  mileage:  1830,  23,  having  increased  to 
126,718,  January  1886.  Increase,  1885,  3,214. 

According  to  Statistics  for  year  ending  June  30, 
1884,  the  total  value  of  dutiable  merchandise  imported, 
was  $457,813,509,  and  of  imported  merchandise  free 
from  duty,  $209,884,184.  The  exports  of  merchandise 
for  the  same  year  amounted  to  $740,513,609. 

The  total  value  of  products  of  industry,  according 
to  census,  1883-4,  $10,000,000,000;  average  annual 
coal  production,  77,908,874  tons ;  average  annual  ex 
ports,  domestic  merchandise,  $794,060,103;  average 
annual  value  imports,  domestic  merchandise,  $635,- 
227,511 ;  average  annual  value  exports  of  cotton, 
$12,322,428;  and  average  annual  value  imports,  cotton 
manufactures,  $32,285,660. 

Leaving  this  beautiful  country  in  which  I  have 
stayed  longer  than  in  any  other  during  my  eight  years 
travels,  and  thanking  all  my  friends  in  the  City  of 
New  York  for  the  many  favors  bestowed  upon  me 
during  my  repeated  long  sojourns,  I  beg  leave  to  bid 
Good-bye !  Au  revoir ! 


YB  36745 


